eatstoomuchjam

With the right monopod, it's not that hard. With something like the Cobra 3 from iFootage, it takes a fraction of a second to change height. It sounds like you have a really specific use case based on your subject matter and your preferences for how you shoot. In that use case, rolling shutter is super important to you because the combination of IBIS+OIS on your body/70-200 lens leads to wobbly jello footage. As you are seeing from this thread, not everybody shoots that way. For most people, higher RS is fine. And keep in mind that is coming from a person with 3 GS cameras (Komodo X, Komodo, and E2-S6G). GS might lead me to choose them over my other cameras, but other things might lead me to choose the Ronin 4D - and with that, I will sometimes opt for the ~30-31ms readout mode that has higher dynamic range vs the ~16ms mode with standard dynamic range. I have yet to hear a complaint from anybody when I hand over the footage. One thing to consider for your use case is the use of something like a Ready Rig or Easyrig and a heavier camera body with a shoulder pad. The footage is more inherently stable when using a heavier body and with more points of contact.

I got a similar mount from another company to suction cup the OP3 to my car (and then shortly after, Tilta announced their mini-hydra for cars, darnit!). I haven't tried it yet, but I'm champing at the bit to give it a shot in Spring/Summer and maybe get back to vlogging some of my visits to old mines (more likely, recording a bunch of footage of it and then never editing the video, like my last several expeditions). Anyway. You should probably just buy it if you see a sale. It's really very good.

If you view footage on a vectorscope, all human skin tones fall along a line between the reds and the greens (unless exposed with rgb light or whatever, this is assuming standard lighting). If they skew too far to one side, the skintones look green and sickly. If they skew too far the other way, they look pink and feverish. Too saturated and they look orange. Not saturated enough and they look pale. That's what is meant by "correct skin tones." When I was shooting Sony many years ago (like A7r -> A7s II era), I almost always had to drag them back from being too green. I hear they improved a lot shortly after I exited the system. And yes, I've shot positive film for years as well as negative film. One of the drawbacks that just about any photographer will say about positive film is that it lacks dynamic range, as you said. It's also why a majority of movies that are shot on film are shot with negative film. As to the rest, technical discussions of image quality are only useful (in a filmmaking context) if they support artistic and subjective goals. If you are an industrial technician looking for a new camera to put over a conveyor belt to detect defects in microchips as they go flying past, then by all means stick to a purely technical discussion of camera capabilities. The rest of us will be over here trying to make art with our limited skills and pseudointellectual ideas of what's important in filmmaking. 😉

I've been seeing a lot of buzz this morning that Sigma have a new product announcement coming on February 25 and that it'll be for a new fp model. This unverified teaser seems to indicate that it'll be an fp body with a Foveon sensor. https://www.l-rumors.com/fake-or-real-teaser-for-the-worlds-first-sigma-fp-camera-with-full-frame-foveon-sensor/ Full frame? Video capable? Details are scant, but maybe it'll finally be time for Foveon to go mainstream! OR, at least, a little less obscure...

First, "three single" is a silly phrase. Second, no. Any time somebody tells you "the single" or "the three most important" or whatever, they are talking straight out of their ass. I'd say that, for me, dynamic range is (often) more important than low rolling shutter. Correct skin tones is also important. Beyond that, composition, lighting, and any number of factors go into a beautiful image. Anyway, claiming that there are a small number of things that are essential to a beautiful image makes it sound like you get your information from YouTubers who post videos with names like "Cinematic footage from (insert camera here)" with slot motion footage of plants in their own backyard - and then they tell you that the secret to lighting the human face is to use reverse key lighting (can look nice, but it's one of about 100 ways to light a human face and have it look nice), etc. Lots of beautiful stuff was filmed on the 5D Mark II and that camera had, what is by modern standards, horrible rolling shutter and poor highlight rolloff.

Pity the ND is only 3 stops, though that's the same as the ZV1/RX100 V. 6 or 8 stops would be better for shooting in direct sunlight, but better an ND filter than no filter. Looks like a pretty decent compact - basically Canon made the successor to the RX100 V that Sony didn't make.

... and the focus ring? 😉 Fair enough! I must be wrong about one of them! Though don't they both use the same direction for focus? That's almost worse - if everything is reversed, it's not too hard to convince my fingers to turn backward for a bit. If only one is reversed, though, chaos will ensue!

"Near future" in cinema camera terms is probably "more than a year" if it involves changing processors. I'm talking about current capabilities of Red cameras. The autofocus is better than a CDAF body, but not even remotely usable. And judging by CVP's video with a preview of firmware 2.x, it will now probably be more usable in a subset of scenarios with existing RF mount cameras and slightly more usable than that on the Z mount models. I think CVP said something about how the camera correctly tracked a walking person in only a few of their tests. If 2.0 will be good enough for locking on a talking head and not getting distracted and drifting away to the background, at least that'll be something. It's sufficient for AF users who have a camera with useful AF. It's far less sufficient if AF doesn't work well. There are parfocal zooms that are also electronic. Anyway, having bad AF and a lens that relies on AF to hold focus while zooming sounds like a recipe for awkward times on set. Name another major brand that turns the same way as a Nikon. Canon? No. Sony? No. Panasonic? No. Fuji? No. (excludes some of their vintage photo lenses) Leica? No. Olympus? No. Zeiss? No. Pentax? Maybe? Any cinema lens I've ever tried? No. So yes, Nikon does use a different direction to turn the focus and zoom rings from every other major vendor. Just about the only time somebody makes a lens that turns in that direction these days, they make it for Nikon. So as a person who doesn't use a single system, having a single system that has an obnoxious insistence on turning the opposite direction from every other lens that I might pick up or use means, to me, that brand is wrong.

I have the Hexanon... I want to say 57/1.2? It's pretty great, but I don't use it as often as I should since it doesn't really match a lot of my other lenses.

The problem isn't that I don't know how to buy 95mm filters. It's that they're really big and clumsy to work with.

Keep in mind also that the Ronin 4D isn't only L mount. That is one of 4 or 5 mounts available for it (for mine, I have DL, E, and M mounts - with M being the one I've been using exclusively since I got it, though I'll probably get a DL lens (probably the zoom) for use mounted on my car). Maybe that also means that L mount is also available on the Inspire 3? From what I remember, it's the same gimbal/camera as the Ronin 4D.

Some are, but none that are really much better than the S1H. Ursa Cine 12K only has EF, PL, and LPL available so far.

That all sounds pretty good for a compact! Let's see where the hammer hit it. 😉

That does, indeed, look great, but also... So rather than the handful of friendly influencers that have received the camera and done minimal tests, I'll hold off on judgment until I see it working on my own cameras (or since I'm 10,000km away from them right now, until there are real user reviews after the firmware is released to the public).

As one, I'd say yes. That would be an improvement over now. I'll be delighted if Nikon are able to get AF on Red to even close to where it was on Sony/Canon 3-5 years ago. Heck, even a face-only AF mode would be just fine.

Yeah - I saw that they're releasing a firmware version 2.0 with that. It remains to be seen - they sort of pulled a Fuji a while ago by releasing some firmware that they complained improved face detection AF. Then some YouTubers tested it and declared it "fixed" or "better." Then everybody else used it and collectively agreed that it isn't usable. I'm sure those same YouTubers are really pumped now about how 2.0 will fix all the stuff they said was fixed in 1.2.5 (or whatever the version was). 😅 Anyway, control of the mount can only have so much to do with whether they can detect a face in the screen and correctly use PDAF points to focus to it, and then stick on it and not jump to other stuff or the background, etc. It might have a bit to do with smoothness of the rack or whatever, but my complaints about bad AF are much more in the category of "why the fuck did it jump to the background and stay there instead of on the face that never left the frame?" and "stop pulsing, you're not CDAF." It's hard to imagine that's the fault of the lens mount, but... I suppose we'll see! Not strictly only rumors - the Megadap guy shared a picture of one he was working on - but as you said, there's not really been anything since then. Hope springs eternal, though! At least for now, I have focus gears and DJI lidar to give AF to my M lenses. As you said, they're pretty different. I'm not likely to give up my K-X or my Komodo if I get a cine 12k - and definitely not my Ronin 4D. They all complement each other and I'd be apt to use various combinations of them on short film shoots. It's hard to say. Apparently their recent financial results were pretty bad. The big question is whether they will want to keep the extremely high margin, but smaller customer base of Red or if they'll drop the margins in the hope of higher sales. My guess is that they'll keep Red as a halo brand with high prices and dedicated cinema bodies - and that we'll see Redcode RAW on upcoming high-end Nikon-branded mirrorless bodies, as well as the SOOC colors converging between the two lineups. It's a strategy that works really well for Canon so Nikon might want to emulate it.

I never tried that one, but the range sounds nice! Just to be clear, though, with the Komodo and/or Komodo-X with their current firmware, to say they offer AF is technically true, but if you're using it for anything you care about, you're probably going to suffer heartbreak. Also, FWIW, there's a company who has announced a Leica M to Canon RF autofocus adapter. It's anybody's guess what it will cost or if it will even ship, but... hopefully soon? The last price cut really generated rage in the userbase. I suppose the question is whether they'd gain more customers through a price drop than they would lose future sales due to people angry that their $10k camera investment dropped 50% in just a few months.

I just watched the PetaPixel review. That sucker has a 95mm front thread! That's another minus when paired with a camera that has no internal ND filters - and last time I checked, nobody had any sort of clip-in inline filter for the K-X yet (or if there were any, they were expensive enough that I ignored them). Kolari have one for the OG Komodo, but it doesn't fit the X. PP didn't mentioned whether the lens was parfocal - judging by the lack of back focus adjustment lever, I'm guessing it's not completely, potentially relying on autofocus for that (which isn't ideal when shooting Red, where the AF is right on the line of usable/unusable which means you get tempted to use it and then pissed off when it doesn't work right). Also, it's focus-by-wire which, as long as it can be set to linear response in camera, is potentially OK, but it's going to piss off a lot of filmmakers. That and zoom being by wire also might actually be some slight benefit here because it might mean that one can set them to work in the correct direction, unlike nearly every other Nikon lens ever made. So basically, Komodo-X with Z mount, potentially cool. Wonder if they'll offer a retrofit service and/or do the same for OG Komodo. Komodo-X combo with this lens? Hard pass from me.

Cool that Reds will now have the most flexible lens mount on the market! I suppose that opens up a ton of Sony E mount options too since there's an adapter for E->Z. For most of the shoots I do, a 28-135 on the K-X wouldn't be ideal - but if you don't need anything wider than 37mm FF equivalent, it'll probably look great. For affordable zooms on an S35 camera, I still can't think of any that I'd rather have than the Fujinon MK's. I finally picked up a used set mid-last year (along with a kit to replace the E mount with RF) and I've been delighted! The 18-55 has barely been off my K-X since then. With A Z mount and the E mount adapter, there's no longer even a need for the RF conversion!

Do you have a goal of recording in braw? I have the VA 12G (both a 5" and a 7") and it's a good screen, but it won't stand out vs a lot of others unless you want to use it as a recorder as well. As for the rest, if you like SmallHD and you're familiar with their menus, and if they cost less than PortKeys, I'd just do that. And if you can avoid it, just don't buy anything at all from Atomos. They're a garbage company.

So if you'd be using the Lenovo laptops, you'd need to understand their power draw in the scenarios where you'd be using them and then size battery accordingly. Newer laptops will use less - and many can be powered by USB-C which makes running from DC trivial. My macbook (14" m2 max) pulls up to about 100w when doing an export, but I can use it just about all day unplugged if it's just for web browsing, etc. I'm sure that there are modern Lenovos with the latest Intel or AMD chips that use less power too. The GPU will still be a power hog, though, generally speaking. So that's a vote against diesel, then! If diesel is problematic in at least one country where you plan to go, then gas is the better option. A 4WD sprinter, especially if lifted a bit, equipped with off-road tires, and properly weighted, will get you a lot further off-grid than a stock 4 runner towing big heavy camper. Extra bonus, as far as I know, Sprinters are sold/available in lots of countries. You could also look into a Delica, especially since you're accustomed to driving on the wrong side of the vehicle already. It's a Mitsubishi van that was built for off-road performance. Specs are slightly worse than an Outback which means it's better than about 80% of stock pickups. (But comments about parts availability are relevant with a Delica!)

Viewing distance definitely matters! I didn't watch the video yet, but I remember that Kodak used to have a billboard (or mural?) in Grand Central Terminal in NYC that bragged that the photo on it was taken on Kodak's own 35mm film... and since it was high up, everybody was viewing it from 20-30 meters away. 😅

Are you serious? A 2U server in a camper? That's going to be awfully noisy and expect to drain your batteries in about an hour. If you'd be insistent on a NAS, a 2nd gen Flashstor 12 is probably a better option. You could probably also power it by DC from your battery pack which is more efficient. https://www.asustor.com/en-gb/product?p_id=91 Just keep in mind that portable drives will use less power and in many cases, be faster than a 10gE NAS. IMO, you need to think about your goals. You're talking about an overlanding rig capable of going anywhere, but then you're talking about a huge 6,000+ pound camper that looks to be about 25 feet long that you'd be towing behind a 16-foot 4Runner. Those are not compatible configurations. Even in the video that you linked, the trailers that they were using were much smaller overlanding setups that are about 8-10 feet long. If your main goal is to get a setup that you can take all over the world and drive into crazy places, my suggestions are: - Total length of vehicle + trailer is less than 30 feet, better if less than 25, ideally less than 20 (i.e. no trailer at all) - Choose a vehicle that is available in a lot of places. If you break down in another country and you're in a car that is available in that country, you have a good chance of finding suitable replacement parts. If you're in a car that isn't sold in that country, you could be choosing between a long wait for parts (but maybe you'll make new friends in whatever town you're in!) and jerryrigging a solution that will probably break down again - Similarly, choose a fuel option based on what will be easily available where you're going. Is gasoline as available in every country as diesel? By now, probably yes, but you should confirm that. - Unless you have shore power available every night or plan to run a gasoline generator, you will have a power budget that is determined by how many solar panels you can realistically fit on your vehicle (and potentially some folding ones that you deploy when stationary). Your solar panels and batteries will be DC devices. When possible, choose DC powered options over AC powered (~10% efficiency gain/loss) and avoid things that are power hungry. A Windows gaming laptop with a dedicated GPU can be great for editing footage, but if it's pulling 150W of power while you're editing, you'll drain your battery pretty fast, especially if you're also running Starlink (120W continuous draw for mine with the v2 dishy, the new smaller dishy might be a bit less, and a little less yet if you do DC conversion). - Conversion to sleeper mode should take only a few minutes and ideally, only a few steps. A daily 20 minute setup/teardown gets old fast - Pay attention to weight distribution, you want the heavy stuff on the bottom of the car, as much as possible - that'd be batteries, water, etc. MrSMW's suggestion of a non-overlanding RV and a dirtbike is a really good one, btw, for many places that one might want to go. It might limit you a bit in very remote areas, but there's a lot to be said for staying on fairly maintained roads until you don't have to. You could even split the difference with a 4WD sprinter (I think these can also be lifted a little bit?) which will get you even more places - and a dirtbike can get you that extra little bit.

This is actually on the right track. Before I bought my Wrangler and kitted it out, I took the car that I had (Subaru Outback) and took the sort of road trip that I wanted for 6 weeks, and I made things as inconvenient for myself as I could. I brought a ground tent, but stayed in the back of the car most nights which meant shifting stuff around for 5-10 minutes. It was a great way to figure out what stuff I actually used vs what I didn't use and at the end of 6 weeks, if I didn't use something and resented moving it around every day to sleep, that thing was stored and never brought on a road trip again. The Subaru could go most of the places that I wanted, but not all. So I chose one of the few vehicles more capable (Wrangler) and built out my platform system/power to match my preferences and needs. What I have works perfectly for me and every time I'm out camping, I feel like I'm living the dream. Except, you know, when I spend half a day jerryrigging a 125 pound rooftop tent back onto my car after the roof rack almost dropped it on the ground. But for a lot of people, spending 2-3 months in my setup would be absolutely miserable. Have you considered doing a smaller and less ambitious trip with what you have in order to shake out your needs/wants?

For the vehicle, a Landy is a great option. venture4wd has one as his secondary vehicle and a lot of his content lately has been driving it all over the mountains in Arizona. For a trailer to take off-road, you should think about that long and hard before making the jump. I'd rank buying a pull-behind camper as one of the worst decisions I've made in my entire life. The one I got was not specifically an overlanding camper or whatever, but it had decent enough ground clearance - but even as a fairly short trailer (about 15 feet), it plus the tongue basically doubled the length of my car (my Wrangler is about 19 feet long) which is awful when you're on a small dirt road that someone gated off. And that's note even starting to get into how often it broke, the difficulty of repairs, etc. I ended up selling it at a huge loss (bought for $10k, put in about $2-3k in upgrades, sold for about $3-4k) and felt grateful to be rid of the fucking thing. YMMV, of course. Given your plans, you may also want to check out Dan Grec's page/channel. He hit every country in Africa in a Wrangler with Ursa Minor camper shell, a setup similar to venture4wd's beloved Orangie. He also has a lot of thoughts about what is and isn't important. What sort of NAS do you have in mind? Keep in mind that bouncing around on rough roads will have a negative impact on spinning hard drives, even if they're turned off/parked. My solution for longer-term trips is a handful of 4T SSD's and just copy everything to two of them and keep them in different parts of the car (and/or trailer if you have one). I also have some OWC thing that takes two 2.5" SATA SSD's and does hardware RAID-1 - so I use that with 2 4T drives in it. This depends a lot on the rooftop tent and your goals. My hardshell RTT (iKamper Skycamp Mini) sets up and comes down in around 2 minutes and I can leave a pillow and some blankets inside it. That's faster than any ground tent I've used (I've used Coleman pop-ups which set up in about 5 minutes and come down in, realistically, about 10 if you actually pack it back into a bag properly - the bags suck). It also facilitates camping on a pullout in a dirt road where a tent isn't feasible. If you're moving around a lot, it's great. If you're going somewhere for a week at a time and staying there, the extra few minutes in setup/teardown is a lot less annoying. I'm actually going to sell mine this Spring, but not because I don't like the tent itself - but because despite having a heavy-duty Rhino Rack roof rack, after tens of thousands of miles with the tent on the car, the roof rack started falling apart. Two years ago, my camping trip was cut short by it nearly falling off the car (roof rack loosened) and last year, I ended up immediately taking it back off the car (and injuring my arm in the process) because the now-repaired roof rack re-broke, this time requiring a replacement part that Rhino took something like 4 months to ship to me (despite that the rack is still a current product that they are selling). Now I'm revising my platforms in the car so that I can sleep inside. Again, it depends on the use case and where you are! For me, if I'm staying in an established campground, I can use their toilets. If I'm off-grid, I have a Cleanwaste Go, a sturdy folding plastic toilet that can be used either to poop into a hole in the ground or into a little plastic baggie full of what is basically kitty litter. It ain't glamorous, but it works. But if I were trying to camp out in an event center parking lot for a week, my setup sucks. I'd just get a hotel room at that point. 😃