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Everything posted by chrisE

  1. The only thing you can do is complain and whine. Is that what a "wanna be" needs to hopefully grow up one day? Disappointing. Following your blog for quite some time now, but it get's worse post by post. Could you please stick with productive things instead of bashing companies (especially Sony) for new gear, you don't understand?
  2. Thanks for the info, I already know that by visiting their website. More information is needed, though. Real world handling? Comparison with other systems? Handling of "difficult setups" like the mentioned font heavy combinations? The Moza Air X sounds like a dream for me, but that was the same with the Weebill Lab, which is a total disappointment. Let's see.... Hope you gonna do it right Gudsen!
  3. Thanks a lot, that's a start! But after a first look, that seems to be more about the color that curve that's being used to convert the raw data from the sensor to the 8bits in the final video file. Any more information?
  4. Where did you get this information from? I'd be really interested in the specs for HLG to get a better understanding of the characteristics and how to grade it properly. Any white papers?
  5. Got a mail, yesterday explaining the situation. I'm not happy with this delay, but if the final product is worth it, I can deal with it.
  6. Same here. It's a nice toy, but it's not worth the money, and I don't need another useless thing gathering dust. Mine will be sent back today. My main concerns are: - Video quality. For my taste, it's worse than my iPhone, which is my go-to camera if I can't take my heavy gear with me. - AF is unreliable and sometimes pumping crazy. Unusable footage. - Stupid "PRO" mode, which requires my phone to connect. This should be a stand-alone device, not an add-on for my phone. - Battery: Not changeable, and getting really hot when using the highest settings.
  7. Still waiting for my hardcore Aurora ND filter from Kickstarter. The 82mm model seems to be delayed.... :(
  8. Simple example, out in nature. You want to travel light and don't have your 400mm with you. How handy could be 8k to get closer in post? That's what I'm talking about. Not the guy filming everything with his 18mm and trying to fix that later.
  9. Read my post. I don't need it, but it could be handy. Of course, all the (wannabe?) "pro's" out there who shoot everything perfect, don't need to crop or reframe in post. ? What I wanted to say if you don't understand it, is that it can be useful to have a higher resolution to crop/re-frame.
  10. Disagree. I love to crop/re-frame videos in post a lot. I almost always export in 1080p, but having 4k is very handy. Although I don't *need* 8k, it would be a helpful addition.
  11. https://store.dji.com/product/ronin-s-focus-motor
  12. As I said, I don't own the Weebill, but following the official discussion on FB. Even Zhiyun says it's not supported. If it's working for you, be happy.
  13. The only gimbals I own are the Zhiyun Crane Plus and the Ronin S. The Weebill LAB is too light for P4K, don't know about the Crane Plus, but it's definitely stronger.
  14. An important factor for gimbals is not only the weight capacity but even more how they handle very front heavy and long setups. For example the new Weebill Lab. It's a great gimbal, great design, but it cannot stabilize a Sony A7III with the 24-70GM, neither the 24-105/F4, and most probably not even the 16-35GM. You might be able to balance such a setup, but the movements will be wobbling and unusable. According to the official specs regarding weight capacity, all the mentioned combinations should work, but in reality, they don't. Of course you can use a light prime lens to avoid this issue, but for me personally, this is a dealbreaker for the Weebill Lab, unfortunately. If the Crane 3 or the Moza Air X solves this problem and provides a better experience than the Ronin S (which handles almost every possible setup), remains to be shown. I really love my Ronin S, but hate it the same time for the weight. Not because I can't carry it, but because it's so much harder for traveling. Any gimbal that is lighter and more compact, would be highly appreciated, if(!) it can handle those "light", but very front heavy mirrorless setups.
  15. "You can't track moving objects with Sony, while you can with the Canon". Read the manual Max. Not mentioning that Sony can't Face-AF in 120fps. Don't know about the others. Pretty useless video. No real conclusion, except that all do a decent job (what you would expect, too). The test setup is so silly and useless. Wasted my time.
  16. Unfortunately, that's wrong. If you were right, street photography would have a problem, but it HAS.
  17. Well, that's the crucial question. Where's the border between commercial use and personal use? If I record a video in Germany with people (strangers) and building and post it on youtube, it that illegal already or only in case, I monetize it? How about Instagram, without gaining any money? If I'm on a family trip and take a photo of my family with some stranger in the background, can he/she request to delete the photo, even if this photo will never be published on any social media platform?
  18. OT, but I need to ask this: Do you have any problems with eye dropper when using this dual monitor setup? I have the same setup (one UDH 4k monitor and one 1080 monitor) and the eye dropper in ANY native Premiere Pro tool doesn't work (it's sampling a position far away from the actual mouse position). This seems to be a known issue (solved by disconnecting one of the monitors), but it's a pain....
  19. @webrunner5Great article, almost how I test my filters. Unfortunately, 99% of all YT filter reviews are rubbish, as none of them uses a color card and some don't even show with/without comparisons, making the reviews useless. Unless you rely on you're favorite Youtubers personal (paid, lol) option. Unfortunately, testing ND filter is very tricky and time-consuming if you do it properly. Just showing a video with the filter is of course not enough, as your eyes easily trick you and you may find the colors pleasing even if they are completely off. If you want to test a filter properly, you have to do the following (my personal opinion of course): 1. Shoot a color card, with the filter and without the filter. Load them in your favorite editing application and look at the vectorscopes. This and only this allows you the really judge the color shift of the filter. A datacolor or x-rite color card is perfect as you can easily analyze the vectorscope without having to rely on your "opinion", "taste" on your maybe not color corrected monitor. 2. Don't forget about WB!! Almost no damn YT review will tell you, how they set the WB. This makes a HUGE difference! Shoot with a fixed WB and with/without the filter will show you the real color cast/change of the filter. With WB set to Auto, your camera can help to lower the color cast, but it's not that simple of course. An ND filter blocks light in a non-uniform way across the light spectrum and and light intensity. Therefore auto WB can never completely reverse the color shifts of a filter. Same for the tint adjustment. If it would be that easy, you could buy any cheap filter and correct it in postproduction (ignoring the effect on the sharpness of course). Unfortunately, I started to make these "real" (my personal opinion!!) test with my filter and got really disappointed by almost all of them, no matter how well praised (Tiffen) or expensive they are. If you want to do yourself a favor, it's maybe better to stay away for such test Then the final question arises, how good can you correct the color changes from an ND filter? Unfortunately, there is no one-click solution nor a preset you can use. I tried to make one myself (with a color card of course), but the LUT I got only worked on that specific scene I generated it from. Also, a variable ND filter changes its effect on colors based on the strength you set it to. Even more complicated then. Keep in mind, I'm not a professional, just an enthusiast with some scientific background trying to do my best to get a good result from my videos. Feel free to correct me if needed! Chris
  20. Post videos with min, max setting, and same scene without a filter. Add a color card, if you own one. That's what counts. There are many reviews on Amazon for bad filter that state, how good they are based on some "first look".
  21. I really like my B+W filters, pretty color neutral. The variable ND filter is also good, the only downside is the low maximum of ND32. I also tried stacking the ND filter with an ND64 (B+W) but that significantly increases the color cast and also introduced some CA. Recently I baked for this filter on Kickstarter Sounds pretty decent of it hold what it promises! I have to wait till September though... I tried the Haida Optical Slim PRO II MC-S ND 12x - ND 500x, which is nice for its big range, but has a nasty greenish color cast when you go to max. The so popular Tiffen filter is pretty unusable for my taste, too much blue and limited range.
  22. No, as I said in my first post, the ISO was way below the maximum. I tested several filters from 3-10 stops and with all of them I get a more or less, depending on the filter, darker video. That's what's bugging me...
  23. Ok, I get your point @Inazuma and @scotchtape , but I'm still wondering, why the final image looks darker with the nd filter. The only reason I can think of is that the auto exposure of the A7 (as compared to the iPhone) is more conservative and it not trying to get the image as bright. In a perfect world, my camera should auto adjust whatever I let it adjust to "compensate" an ND filter. Actually, I didn't have this "issue" with filming with SLOG2, simply because I had nothing on auto in this case. Using the EOSHD 4.0 HDR settings, which are pretty handy in a run and gun scenario when you don't have the time to expose every shot manually, an underexposed image will kill your backs (due to the black level settings in this profile) if you rely on the auto exposure AND use an ND filter.... It's time to go back to full manual I guess
  24. Hi, I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask such a "simple" question, but I'll give it a try ;) I do have some problems understanding the exposure measurement in the Sony A7 III when filming. Here's what I don't understand: Manual exposure, 1/50, 24fps. F4 (whatever). ISO set to AUTO. Exposure mode set to "Multi" The exposure meter displays +/-0.0. Now I screw on any ND filter, otherwise same settings as before. Exposure meter displays +/-0.0 again, but the image is considerably darker on screen and in the final video, too. The ISO is not capped by the maximum ISO setting. Shouldn't the camera expose the image identical with and without a filter with ISO set to AUTO if the limit is not reached? I know that an ND filter affects the spectrum of light in a non-uniform way, but is this really causing such a big difference/confusing that camera? As a simple test, I used my iPhone to compare the behavior. When I put an ND filter in front of the lens the automatic adjustments of the iPhone expose the image pretty identical to the image without the filter. Can't compare any other setup as I sold my Nikon DLSR long time ago.... Of course, you can compensate that with the dial to overexpose when using an ND filter, but why is it that way? Any help would be appreciated! Chris
  25. 1. I tried that already but that doesn't work... It seems that the custom wb slots 1-3 are saved with c1/2. Try it yourself... 2. No, that's not the reason. Try that: setup your 4k settings in movie mode (dial). Half press shutter. No ISO reading. Save these settings to C1. Half press shutter, no ISO reading. Save exact same settings to C2, half press shutter, voila! ISO is displayed! Explanation? I have no idea.... While "issue" 2 is not a big deal, the missing custom WB in C1/2 is a major problem for me, any solution (expect manually setting it ) would be highly appreciated! Greetings, Chris
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