manueldomes

I inverted the shutter and aperture dials setting, so that at worst I accidentally change only the aperture (front dial is more unlikely to move unintentionally, at least for me). And since I shoot with a speedboosted sigma 30mm 90% of the time, the back wheel is basically deactivated.

In my experience, set zebra to 80% and expose to the right (i.e. dial down exposure juuust a notch once zebra appears in the brightest part of the frame you are going to shoot). Then pull down in post if your scene is too bright. Quick and easy.

I bought the GH5 for 10bit 422 and IBIS, which were the only things I reallly missed with the GH4. Having the second memory card slot and LUT preview is fantastic. Couldn't be happier.

Taking the liberty to post the trailer for a short film we shot a week ago.

I haven't changed any preferences and the copy to library option was checked when I imported files for my current projects, but as of this project, FCPX does not store the media inside the fcpbundle anymore, but creates two folders on the same file level where the bundle is (original and proxy media). Inside the bundle, the usual folders are still present, but only contain link files. Is this supposed to happen after a recent update? Not minding it in principe, just concerned because a recent crash on another editing hard drive caused that whole library to become corrupted, so don't want to risk anything like that happening again...

Thanks for the great replies guys. The Soviet way prevailed.

The long title says it all The file shows up in the viewer when named according to the cam system, but I get an error message "this motion image can not be played". I exported 4k, 24p, h264 from FCPX, using GH5 footage. Need the illusion as a prop for a shoot. Can it be done?

I will venture into proxy editing territory with the GH5 as well, from the looks of it... Related question, though more concerning FCPX than the GH5 -- is there any advantage to creating optimized media when you will be editing proxy media anyway?

When using a speedbooster, do you set the lens focal length to the actual focal length of the lens, or to the speedboosted one? So far I seem to be getting better results with the latter, but hard to confirm this...

I wish it did indeed record in the native Apple codec, but I'm happy to be able to ditch the external recorder thanks to 10bit 422. Will test now if my mid-2012 Macbook holds up to the transcoded 4k footage...

Happy to report that moving the frame one millimeter to the right (so that there is a tiny gap on the left side of the magnetic frame) did indeed the trick. Still not sure what's causing this glitch but I guess for anyone using a viewfinder attachment it's good to be aware of this.

No takers? :o In the absence of someone pointing me to the obvious or a quick fix from Panasonic, I'd probably have to take off the magnetic frame and re-attach it a millimeter or two to the right where the magnifier seems to cause no issues. But I'd rather avoid that...

So I got the GH5 today and have started fiddling around with it. One thing I noticed is that when attaching the Kinotehnik viewfinder which I bought for it (via the magnetic frame), the LCD screen turns off. I have changed settings to low sensitivity for eye sensor, and assigned FN5 with "MON", but there is no change when I press it. I have also tried switching off touch function with no effect. Oddly enough, when the viewfinder is slightly mismatched but already attached to the frame, the LCD still works, but when I slide it all the way to the left to sit flush, the screen turns off and switches to EVF and I can't change it back. I'm sure this is a glitch or I'm missing out on something, I hope I won't need to send in the camera. Pointers (and testers) appreciated! /update: this behaviour does not appear when the viewfinder is flipped to the side and the magnifier is attached. I can switch through the modes using FN5 fine and the screen doesn't go black when attaching the magnifier. This isn't really a workable solution though since the weight of the attached magnifier makes it impossible to maintain the position and it might be too much of a strain for the viewfinder mechanism. So something is definitely odd here.

Ah, got it. Hadn't realized it's the same item as for the GH4. I suppose I won't be able to use the code I bought for the GH4 though

I'm a bit confused -- my GH5 should arrive in two or three days, but I can't seem to find any info on how to activate VLOG (my info is that this will be a paid upgrade as with the GH4). At least the German Panasonic online shop doesn't seem to yield any results. I'd love to shoot VLOG with it from the start, and have a major project starting in about 10 days...

As little report, I did end up trying the DIY solution -- bought a cheap-ish Walimex circular polarizer, which didn't have any effect when I screwed it into the broken Tiffen's front thread. But alas, flipping it and then taping it to the leftover piece did the trick It looks and feels seriously DIY, but seems to work fine, at least as a backup filter. Here's some highly unscientific (and not necessarily the sharpest - camera was moving) screen grabs of the improvised vs the Tiffen filter which I bought again. At first glance, the difference seems to be mainly the lower contrast of the DIY, which isn't necessarily a bad thing. ND value was close to maximum on both filters. DIY: Tiffen:

I'm using the Sigma 30mm 1.4 with a speedbooster XL 90% of the time and continue to find it pretty wow

No worries, the diy one would only be a spare filter, will definitely get a new one too. For now I'm just concerned if using only the back element would result in something I wouldn't want to see. Preview looks clean.

Chipped off the front element of the tiffen with a screwdriver (took me 15 minutes - I guess I'll buy that brand again) and the back element does seem to take off about half a stop of exposure. Second question: I suppose I could just buy a polarizer filter that fits the front element and have a DIY spare vari ND?

I just cracked thr front element of my vari nd filter. I'm in a shoot and would ideally want to retain some nd capacity. Can I rip off the broken front element and continue using the back filter? I know it's technically supposed to be a circular polarizer (which I haven't ever used so far). Thanks!

Something I'm working on. Shot on GH4/vlog (with some GH2 shots)

Overlapping public-private spaces and nature-city tensions in Manila.

Real feedback, too Thanks! Shot on GH4

This is obviously better viewed as a proper installation but thought it'd be interesting to share anyway. Please see description for more details. Right channel shot on GH4 with vlog-l

Does anyone know if it makes a difference in terms of sound quality to record audio with external mic connected to gh4 sound input vs ninja star direct input?