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Calum MacPhail

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Posts posted by Calum MacPhail

  1. 19 minutes ago, zerocool22 said:

    Weight and screen that can be flipped to the front so you can film youself(handy for test shots or vlogging)


    Did they make the V-Log upgrade free in the end or is there a chance of buying a second hand S1 without it?

  2. With the upcoming firmware update for RAW video, is there any reason not the buy a used S1 rather than an S5? The bigger EVF, LCD, Grip and larger HDMI port all seem like big reasons to get the S1.

    Anything big I would miss by not getting an S5 instead? 

  3. Not sure if posting external sales links is allowed, please tell me if not :).

    For sale is a rare, 250mm minolta f 5.6 mirror lens, recently serviced by well respected lens technician "the lens doctor". The lens had its focusing system cleaned and readjusted, to ensure the best possible accuracy and the lens elements were removed, cleaned and treated with anti fungal solution to ensure the lens a long life. As a result this is in fantastic operating condition and will provide great telephoto images from its compact body, its a great companion to any mirrorless camera. Service cost £100 and documentation available on request. This lens was previously owned by renowned Scottish photographer Harry Benson, so the lens already has great history.


    Overall the lens is in excellent condition, save for a few minor cosmetic details. Some light marking to the outer body, some small marking to the internal metal of the lens (during the service) and minor blemish to the front element. All of these as stated are purely cosmetic and in no way effect the operation of the lens. 


    Included with the sale is the original lens hood, rear filter and end cap, as well as a compatible Minolta lens cap (not the original, but official Minolta) and a good quality, vintage cord and leather carry bag. Hoping the lens will go to someone who will take care of it, so willing to let it go a bit lower to an EOSHD user.

    Link to more images and eBay buy it now below.

    Shipping from Glasgow, Scotland.


    s-l1600 (1).jpg

  4. Built from Adafruit parts, this is a very high quality 9.7 inch display for PC or Mac, based on a Retina iPad Screen. Ideal for photographers, graphics designers, app and web designers and videographers, with its compact size, great colours and dynamic range.


    This is a 2048x1536 retina, ultra-high pixel density, IPS display that can connect to any computer with a Thunderbolt/DisplayPort port. This product comes with a new 9.7" diagonal TFT display module (the same one used in the iPad 3 & 4), along with a custom made driver board, a wire monitor stand , 5M DisplayPort cable and 9V power adapter.


    From the Adafruit Site:


    "The driver board is a work of art (it was designed by resident engineer KTOWN) - and we use the really awesome LT3754 as a 12-channel constant current driver with individual backlight string channel control. This gives the backlight perfect consistency over any usage or temperature range. A ATtiny85 handles the backlight dimming and soft on/off, so you can PWM the backlight over a range to get the look you want.


    Use as a main screen or even better, as a secondary monitor. Great for photo or video editing - you can use a large main monitor for frame-by-frame editing and then preview on the smaller side frame. Or keep your email or dashboard notifications on the side. Heck, web-devs will want to use it to preview what their sites will look like on a "Retina" display. The 9.7" screen is small enough to keep out of the way."



    The main parts originally cost:


    1 x LG LP097QX1 - iPad 3/4 Retina Display[ID:1751] = $99.95

    1 x Qualia Bare Driver Board for LP097QX1 Display[ID:1716] = $79.95


    And after adding the display port cable, stand and power supply (as well as shipping (30 dollars :( ), the total cost was well over £150.

    I'm looking for £70, including UK postage. Shipping from Glasgow, Scotland.


    Please feel free to ask me any questions you may have :)







  5. Hey people,

    I've just completed a no budget short sci-fi film and wondered if I could get some opinions on it visually.

    I shot this on the Samsung NX1 (my first project on the camera) and certainly ran up against some of its limitations, like low light performance.

    Anyway, I've never been particularly happy with my own colour grading, maybe its just me being too harsh on myself as I know many of us are a bit self deprecating creatively. 

    i'd be really interested to hear any comments or criticism people may have about the project.


    Thanks in advance for anyone that replies.





  6. Hi guys,

    I've had my NX1 for a good while now and I wanted to check to see if anyone had any picture profile advice.

    I've just finished shooting a 15 minute short with it over a year and have tested a lot of features during that time, including the bit rate hack.

    However, im still finding in the base image that blacks are a bit too crushed for my liking and I wondered if anyone had any suggestions based on my current settings.

    I'd like to get it a little flatter than possible as well so that I can use it more easily as a B cam for my C100, ive never expected it to be as flat as a log profile, but something a bit flatter than just now if possible would be great.

    Current settings (based off  reading other users suggested settings):

    Master Black level 7

    Gamma control normal 

    Luminance level 0-255

    Smart Range + ON

    Saturation -4

    Sharpness -9

    Contrast -4


    Any advice would be greatly appreciated and let me know if ive missed any key settings.

  7. Hey all.

    I've got a Nikon 80-200 2.8 (not the push pull) that sees little use as the NIKON F to EF adapter i have is too wobbly on it and cant support the weight properly.

    Does anyone have any recomendations for a solid adapter that doesnt wiggle? Especially under the weight of the 80-200.

    I've seen the REDROCK micro adapter advertised, but havent seen a great deal of info on it.

    Any suggestions would be great.




  8. After some thought, I have decided to list for sale my very rare Minolta 135mm F2.0 lens in MD mount.

    Two minor issues with this lens:

    - minor lens fungus on front element (this has now been killed off, but remains within the lens. Could be removed by lens technician)

    - minor scratch on rear element.

    Neither of these issues effect the image and I can try to obtain macro shots of both of these if required.

    Other than these two problems, the lens is in great condition for its age. With a smooth focus action and all lens markings clearly visible. Comes with original caps.

    Ive been very impressed with the quality of this lens and my reason for sale is due to my lack of portrait work and my general use of telephoto zooms. However this a fast, well built lens and is sharp at F2.

    The only other sale I can find for this lens recently was for $1000 for a mint lens, so I have set what I believe to be a fair price given the lenses issues.

    This works excellently on any modern mirrorless camera. I primarily shoot video and I have attached a sample 4K still taken on my NX1 (camera settings sharpness -9). Focusing was set around the smaller eye and the lines around it.

    Looking for £500, plus £20 for insured postage.

    Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions. Will aim to get the best postage within the budget, will refund any excess postage costs. Based in Glasgow city centre.


    s-l1600 (3).jpg


    s-l1600 (1).jpg

    s-l1600 (2).jpg

  9. It's really difficult to tell the capability of the lens from the Rokkor files site I think, it seems to be a pretty old article and its not the best choice of test shots.

    Speaking of not the best test shots...

    Heres too very quick and dirty shots out of my NX1, one photo, one video frame. Straight out of the camera (video still was fired into premiere for titling) 

    Shot at ISO 200 at F2 and with the camera set to -9 sharpness. 

    I tried mainly to focus on the smaller "eye" (or is that his projector like R2-D2?) and the lines around it.

    Like I said, its a very quick and dirty test, done on a small Pixi tripod that wasn't quite up to the weight of the camera and lens, so take into account that these are rough results, wide open and with some minor shake. I think the lens makes a pretty good account of itself wide open. 

    I'm heading out just now, so I cant do anymore tests tonight, but if anyones got any suggestions of what they'd like to see out of the Lens, just fire up here and I'll do my best :)/


    main edit.Still020.jpg

  10. Hey people,

    I'm wondering if anyone has either owned this lens, come across one in the wild or has seen other posts about it. The only post anyone ever seems to link to is this: http://www.rokkorfiles.com/135mm.htm

    image1 (5).JPG

    To give you guys the story of this lens: I was gifted it from a family friend, photographer Harry Benson (if you haven't come across his work, do yourself a favour and check him out, hes a living legend in the industry). It was given to me along with a number of other lenses and a number of X700 bodies with motor drives. Unfortunatley it was first gifted to an uncle who took poor care of the lenses and as such, almost all the glass in the box has lens fungus. By a stroke of luck however, this lens was in the best condition of them all. I managed to get the lens UV treated and the little fungus that the lens has collected was killed off. 

    Other than mounting it to my NX1, as a primarily CANON user (boo hiss these days I know, but both my C100 and before that my 7D worked their arses off for me), I haven't found myself using this lens much, mainly due to the focal length. Its much more attractive now in the days of mirrorless and the lenses mount is no longer an issue. I've began to have a bit of a clear out recently and that got me searching for information on the lens and how much would be a fair asking price for it. 

    Anyway, Im beginning to ramble, my limited use of this lens so far has proven it to be a lovely, solid piece of glass. My primary issue as I originally stated, is that it seems to be somewhat of a rarity and thats casting doubt in my mind as to what would be a fair asking price.

    TLDR: Anyone got this lens, seen it for sale before or have any idea what its worth?

    Hopefully we can bring a little bit of light to this issue and help anyone else out that may be also on a quest for truth. Feel free to fire any questions you may have and I'll do my best to answer them.

    EDIT: Just came across this after posting: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Minolta-MD-135mm-F2-Lens-w-Caps-/321214971480?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item4ac9e77e58&clk_rvr_id=1136997507589&rmvSB=true $1000 seems to be an approximate value for a lens in excellent condition.


  11. You could try the Hoodman Hoodriser. It upgrades 3" loupes to cover 3.5" and 4" screens. I bought one along with the HCAM4 strap super cheaply on eBay (I was lucky there was auctions, they are mostly buy it now). Combined with another lucky purchase, an LCDVF 3" loupe on eBay (cost £10), I built a loupe for my C100. Not as efficiently designed as the dedicated Zacuto loupe, but it works well enough. If you can get the hoodriser cheaply enough, it might just solve your problem. 



  12. 1 hour ago, vaga said:

    As I'm reading blueringer,

    My thought would be to model the adapter signals to the camera based on the nx lens that has the most features and fastest AF. Do you all think that is a reasonable idea?

    From what I've read, that would be the 16-50 f2-2.8 then. It's really a shame that the Pentax K adapter that Samsung made for their old lenses isn't active, we could have learned a lot from it.

    RockyMountains Arduino unit noted above is probably the closest we've come. Like I said I think we are most likely to have success with a dumb adapter at the NX end, that controls and powers a lens externally. Trying to create an adapter to allow the NX to do it itself is most likely outwith our limited collective R and D capabilities. 


    It also occurs to me to ask what you guys would expect (be willing) to pay for such an adapter. With such limited production numbers, the cost per adapter will be much higher than most others on the market.

  13. Great work on the speedbooster so far, great to see so much activity in regards to continuing what Samsung abandoned.

    The DIY community will be our only chance of seeing an electronic mount adapter for the NX, I cant see any companies (metabones, or even some of the newer chinese ones like Zhongyi), seeing this as an economically viable product. RockyMountains work is very interesting and I've been following his youtube channel for sometime. Without wanting to be an negative nancy, I think best case scenario we could end up with something like the earlier redrock adapters, with an external control unit.

    I happen to know a lot of engineers, including one that works for Thales Angenieux, I'll run the concept of a hardware adapter past them next I see them and see if I can get anyone to contribute.


  14. I've been running into a few issues with my NX1 and the hack. When running the hack now, the screen quite often goes black and the SD activity LED begins to repeatedly blink. The only way to stop this is pulling the battery. Upon reboot, all settings (bit rate etc) have reverted to standard. I've successfully managed to record at a number of framerates and resolutions, at 120, 150 and 180 mb/s. This is a more recent development, I installed the mod at the weekend and its only started "crashing" in the past couple of days, theres not any triggers that could have caused this that come to mind, the cameras been mostly off this week.

    Also, im assuming this is part of the install process, but the files are no longer present in the root of the SD card. Additional info, the card is formatted in EXFAT and not in the camera.

    EDIT : I've uninstalled the mod and performed a clean installation of 5.3. I'll keep you posted as to wether the irregularities return.


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