mercer

I think it depends on your set up and on the lens. Thus far, I have kept it pretty simple. A neck strap, my right hand on the grip, my left hand serving double duty to support the lens and focus from underneath. With certain vintage lenses it is a pleasure. On longer, heavier lenses it is unbalanced. I intend to include an L-bracket eventually and I recently found a rail free follow focus I may include. Either way, I will use vintage primes 99% of the time, I just like the look better.... Vintage c-mounts... I like even more so.

EDIT: Sorry I misread the comment.

I think the best hope for Canon stills cameras to have the video features that everyone wants will be with their mirrorless line. Think about it, their consumer eos-m3 has focus peaking, but their flag ship full frame model does not... that has to tell you something. Canon's DSLR market is primarily for stills. With the rumored, but practically confirmed, release of a Canon FF mirrorless coming out in late Fall, I believe a lot of these desired features will be included in that camera.

I think the point really is this... It is what it is. These are the specs Canon has decided on. Now it's up to us to decide if we want to buy one, or go a different route. You gotta love the free market. I, personally, would take this over an equivalently priced Sony any day of the week. The codec may be outdated but it's stable, has beautiful motion cadence, and requires less processing power. Sure you need more storage, but storage is cheap nowadays, so no biggie. I own a Canon XC10 and a Panasonic GX85. I love them both for different reasons and they both have a place in my tool box.

Funny thing is, I was just going to ask the opposite... Is anyone using vintage primes. I have noticed that due to the size and shape of the body, a lot of vintage primes are too front heavy for the body and makes it an ergonomical mess when using IBIS. My Nikkor 28mm f2, which is one of my favorite lenses of all time feels completely unbalanced and awkward on the GX75. I'm bummed too because I sold the AI version a few months back, but recently bought the ai-s version because I missed it so much. But to answer your actual question, no I don't have any Panasonic lenses, but I do have the Sigma 30mm f2.8 and it is a blast to use. Set the camera to manual focus, hit your mark in the foreground, pan or tilt, then touch the AFL button and the results are a beautifully smooth rack focus with a pan or tilt. I like the clinically sharp look too. Now I'm intrigued by the f/1.4 Contemporary version of the Sigma... Does anyone have that?

Yeah, the personal side of me gets a little annoyed that they don't include all of the above, but the business side of me doesn't blame them. It's market segmentation. The real issue is that Canon has way too many camera models and too many benchmarks for each line. But if you look at their models and the features they include in each respective camera, their company strategy is pretty evident. And it seems to be working for them... But honestly, how exactly is it poor customer service? If you are a customer who purchased a camera based on the specs presented at the time of purchase, how can you complain it doesn't have more than offered? And you have to be a customer to receive service. Three quarters of the people who complain about Canon on these forums are trolls and not actual customers.

I'm sorry but how many times do people need to be told by Canon that they will not include C-Log in cameras that are not part of the C Series before they will believe them? You cannot logically blame Canon for not including something they have repeatedly told the world they will not include... It reminds me of Einstein's definition of insanity. However, with the price drop of the 1dC, I wouldn't be surprised if Canon releases a 5dC.

Celtx has a storyboarding app called Celtx Shot.

This is the problem I am having with the Fotodiox Excel+1. I bought it pretty cheap on eBay, but any direct light and the center becomes a hexagonal mass of low contrast Smurf haze. When indoors, or not in direct sun, it is actually not bad, but that blue hexagonal haze... Ugh. I think I may send it back and pick up a Mitakon.

I read somewhere that you can use a thin MD to ef (no glass) adapter to a focal reducer and it works. Never tried it myself though. I think M42 will mount to MD too. Again no first hand knowledge.

So, you won it for $160?

@jase since VNDs aren't actual NDs, but 2 polarizer you can get some funky effects now and then. Most VNDs continue to rotate past maximum where that dreaded X pattern occurs when you're in no man's land until you return back to minimum. This is why I only use VNDs that have the hard stops on either end.

That's Samsung. But I did hear their microwaves shoot 24p in Cinema DCI.

I recommend picking up a cheap variable ND to try. If you like the workflow, then spend the money. You are getting pretty good results the way you are shooting now, so why spend too much money until you know for sure you like using a VND and want to change your method. For cheap VNDs I can highly recommend the Bower VND. It's cheap with very neutral rendering plus it is one of few VNDs (even the more expensive VNDs) that have hard stops on either end. I find it's also good to have a cheap one in your bag in case you're in adverse conditions... the beach or deep in the woods. If you're going to get sand on you're filter, it might as well be the cheaper one.

Thanks for the link, very helpful. I did the same thing as you originally did... I set the display in preferences to RGB. I've definitely noticed a difference since I did it, but I am always second guessing myself with color since I usually have such a rough go of it. Funny thing is, when I have a question I need answering and I Google it, I usually find the answer on EOSHD. This is such a helpful community!!!

No, I have a JVC and a Roku TV... I think it's a TCL. I wonder what the best method is to ensure that color looks acceptable on multiple platforms and devices. Obviously, I can't control how people have their settings, but is it commonplace to desaturate to the lowest preferred levels?

Haha, yeah the music is definitely eerie, that guy has some great royalty free music. That shot was giving me problems all over the place, I used AWB for that shot and I think there were just too many mixes of shade and sun that confused it. I either used Portra or 160s. I have the stand alone version, so this was the first time I ever sent out an XML from FCPX to FC, needless to say I had some issues, so I had about 3 different versions before this one and I honestly forget which of the two profiles I used. I seem to like Portra the best, so it is probably that. Did it look over-saturated on your screen? On my macbook and iPhone it looks as intended, but on my TVs, it does not... which is really annoying.

So, I had my first go with the GX85... awesome little camera... well worth what I paid for it. I have to adjust Saturation a little. On my monitor, the levels look fine, but when I watch it on one of my TVs, it is definitely over-saturated. I am going to try lowering my in camera saturation a tick or two. For this video, the in camera settings were... Contrast -5, Sharpness -5, Noise Reduction -5, Saturation -2. I'm going to try -3 and -5 next. I used FilmConvert for correction/grading. And the music is by Kevin McLeod.

Check out the ninja star. Very basic. I am thinking about getting one myself.

Looks great!!!

@PannySVHS "So GX is even better in the shadows than G7? That´s something I would most certainly love to believe! Great news." It seems that way from my preliminary tests. I am heading out today to give her some gas, so I'll report back later. "What do you mean exposing for the center? I most the time expose for the mids. Going close with the cam and metering with my cam." Yeah, that's basically what I mean. Before I would rely on the zebras to show up and then dial down either the exposure, ISO, or ND to right below clipping. Now I only use the zebras as a warning for excessive clipping but have found that the camera's meter is a better gauge... For me anyway. So exposing to the center would mean that the histogram is not pushing to the right or the left but the info is in the center. "I held a Oly EM10ii with additional grip in my hand a few days ago. When doing street photography I approached another guy running around with that beauty. Felt awesome in the hand. GX85 in the stores didnt feel too great. Googled for a grip. Found this: J.B. Wood Grip. Looks like a nice addtion for the GX85." Yeah those Olympus' look really nice. They were never really on my radar until I saw John Brawley's recent video, but in reality it seems that anyone who ever uses one is impressed. I use a strap with the GX85, so the grip isn't horrible, but it could be a little better. For now, it's fine. If I start shooting more serious work with it, I will rig it up to a small L-Bracket so I can have plenty of cold shoes for external recorder, rode, etc. Carry on, I look forward to some more hula hoop action from that pretty lady of yours.

Yeah, I bought one last week. Every time I opened my gear closet, a lens stared at me with sad eyes. But in reality I picked up a great deal for a new body, Panasonic travel battery kit, plus an instant rebate... So I couldn't pass on it. Eventually I wanted to get an interchangeable lens camera anyway, so this saved me some money because I probably would have bought a used C100. Yeah, I agree, I think the GX85 is a lot cleaner in the shadows than the G7. ISO 800, SEEMS, to be completely noise free at 1-2 stops under. Of course I have been exposing differently since I picked up the XC10. With the G7, I used 100% zebras to expose to the left, with the XC10 I learned quickly that you need to underexpose... Or expose to the center for best results. So with the GX85, I have my zebras set at 100 to catch any glaring issue, but am really just watching the meter and trying to keep it under by about a stop. I've also found the camera plays well at 4400 Kelvin in mixed light. I've yet to test the A3/G3 theory, but I haven't done any skin tone tests yet... Probably today. I've been using it with only vintage lenses... Minoltas, Canon FL and a few c-mount lenses. They render beautifully and they are so sharp. Aliasing is a problem in 4K but it seems to go away once downscaled to 1080. The IBIS is fantastic... Not as good as the XC10, but not too far off either. With my 12.5mm c-mount, I get full coverage, but if I pan too quickly, the image falls off the sensor's cliff into the dark abyss. All in all, it's a fun little cam... Wish the grip had a touch more meat to it.

Nooo... Don't do it.

Very interesting info. Thanks. A quick tap of the joystick brings you into the function menu which seems pretty simple to change ISO, shutter speed, etc...? I tried exposing in TV but found I could ride exposure pretty easily with my index finger while tracking people. I love that it's stepless. Good idea to set Custom 1 to powered IS, I just left it for Display because I wear the camera around my neck with a strap. When walking to another location, the screen would bump against my chest and change something. So by pressing Display Off, it solved that issue. Button 2 I made ND... Which kind of annoys me because it seems to be either not enough or a hair too much... Wish it had one or two more stops of ND... Maybe MKii. And then button 3 I made Push AF, it's great to have it right there at my thumb. I tried to just switch back and forth, but I like how I can be on the long end and hit Push AF and hit my focus in a sec or two, and then readjust manually real quick for a rack focus. Of course, on tracking shots, I usually will flip on AF. Andrew was right about the focus ring... It really is abysmal. At first use, I thought... It isn't so bad, it feels a lot better than a lot of other focus by wire lenses feel like, but then when you really start using it, you get to witness the strange erratic behavior. That is my one major gripe with the camera. They took the time to make a nice zoom ring, but then just crapped all over the focus ring. Doesn't make sense. All in all though, it is the best camera I ever owned and just a complete joy to use. In some ways it's too good... If I don't watch myself and stay on my plan, I could easily have a 20:1 ratio because I just keep finding new angles and running footage. Btw, I didn't know it downscaled to 1080p for HDMI. Obviously since you're using the Ninja Star, then the monitor stays on. That's awesome news. I just picked up the GX85, on the cheap, so I could use my lenses and I was thinking about picking up a Ninja Star to go with it, now I have twice as many reasons to get one. Also, I like your audio set up. I was planning on picking up a top handle and you seem to have a good configuration there. The beachtek seems promising too. Do you attach the Ninja Star to that handle as well? And finally, I get you about the BlackMagic, I was planning on keeping my BMMCC for more controlled projects, but after using the XC10 for the past few weeks, I haven't used the Micro once, so I will list it for sale this week.

@Lintelfilm what focal length was that shot at and were you still and your son was moving around, or were you both moving. I have noticed the IS struggles with the long end. It's a little better when you use the telephoto IS(forget what they call it) but I also have everything set at manual and use Push AF most of the time, so in the wide end, where I usually stay, there is little background blur. But I'll be on the lookout for it. Honestly, I have been using my XC10 primarily in 1080p because I just adore the 5-Axis and the 1080p in c-log. I think the 1080 downscaled internally from the 4K sensor seems better than most consumer cams 4K with post downscale.