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TheRenaissanceMan

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Posts posted by TheRenaissanceMan

  1. He says "I suspect that V-LOG L isn’t the culprit here; it is likely due to how the image is being processed by the camera itself." and that was a pre-production model of the DVX-200. Also, he notes at the end that the color from V-LOG L was both pleasing and accurate--just held back by the camera's poor highlight processing.

    Everyone else who's used V-LOG L on the GH4 has shown excellent results. 

  2. A paid firmware update and a pre-installed version of the camera would make way more sense than forcing existing users to sell their GH4s for new versions; Panasonic can't be that dense. 

    I don't blame them for charging for V-LOG. A good LOG profile will be like having a whole new camera. And considering how many people are avoiding the GH4 based on color science, DR, and oversharpening, this will address almost every major complaint with the camera. In my opinion, that's worth a couple hundred. 

  3. I am really seeing such bad results all over the web. Wouldn't have imagined that, I guess a FF sensor is hard to IBIS and/or perhaps Olympus has superior technology from the start.

    I'm guessing it's a sensor size/mass thing. Yet another advantage for M4/3. :d

    The E-M10 II looks to be a pretty great video option, sharing the same IBIS and video quality as the E-M5 II. Wait 6 months, buy one used for moving shots, and boom--you're set.

  4. Nope. Never did that. 

    For less than 1% of the users. For the other 99% the much better DR in high ISO and video will be more useful

    Uh huh. :) 

    Yeah, I know. My point was "Relax we were just comparing some numbers and not the cameras as a whole package" 

    I'm plenty relaxed, but you seem to have some problem with the comparison. Can't I discuss how they compare both in numbers and as a whole package?

    It could very well be the case, I never claimed otherwise. 

    I didn't say you claimed otherwise. I just put forth the information. Why do you take everything I say as an attack?

    Well now its getting silly. Enough with this gearheaded fights. 

    I wasn't "fighting." You made a point. I disagreed, so for the sake of anyone who looks through this topic for information, I made a counterpoint. That's how discourse works.

  5. Keep in mind that DXO compares just sensors and digital processing. Cameras are much more than that. Please look again and you will see that the whole conversation was just on numbers...

    I mentioned a whole slew of other factors besides just numbers, actually.

    Where did I say that someone should buy the A7rII over the D810? Buy whatever works for you best. I am pretty sure each one has its own needs/wants. 

    You compared the two and concluded that those interested in shooting video as well as stills would find the A7R II more useful. I was providing a counterpoint.
     

    Again, A7RII during HD recording does not overheat.

    The A7R II also doesn't stack up to the D810 in HD mode. You have to downsample its 4K to get comparable results...and 4K overheats the camera in 10 minutes.

  6. You're also forgetting something most important if not from ages, at least since when a camera left the shoulders of the operator (considering a camera had left a tripod for first time some time earlier): steady hands!

    Me and my friends have a technique we call the Polish Steadicam. It's the guy with the steadiest hands and a wide angle lens, who we push around on a little cart. We look like clowns on set, but the results are great.

  7. You keep mentioning the overheating but I have never seen any A7rII camera overheat during HD recording. 

    I have no doubt that D810 is a great camera and quite likely the colors will look better out of the box when compared to the A7rII, but what's your point?  

    That this test from DXO Mark, combined with the A7R II's well-documented overheating problem, proves to me that there's little reason to choose it over the D810 for hybrid shooting. It takes equal or better stills, has a much better lens library, offers more robust professional and third party support, is more reliable with long recordings, has a much better battery life, and gives you comparable DR with better colors. Oh, and it's $200 cheaper. Besides 4K and the EVF, I don't see a lot that points in the A7R II's favor unless you just can't cum without 4K. 

  8. The point was made specifically for the DR during video, and the A7rII can record for hours HD footage without melting like the D810. 

     

    With the FLAT profile, you get pretty much all that DR on the D810. Maybe you lose a stop, but you also have great colors to work with. Meanwhile, the A7R II has shut down due to overheating. 

  9. It has to be something to do with the fact that it works off the 1DC's JPEG engine, not the traditional video pipeline. I don't know enough to say how the two methods differ, but there's a clear quality difference going on. I'm curious why more manufacturers haven't experimented with this, beyond the ridiculous inefficiency of MJPEG.

  10. For me the lens draws attention to itself when it is wider than 24mm on full frame.

    Completely agreed. Even 24mm is right on the edge.
     

    He seems to like very deep DOF.

    I think it's more that he recognizes that deep DoF is as important a tool as shallow DoF. 
     

    I am not a shallow DOF junky but I like a gentle roll off of focus, with the background a little bit back... not completely blurred out. I find deep DOF too 'flat' looking on digital. It's ok on Super 16mm (Digital Bolex for example) if the c-mount lens has a lot of character but it looks a bit sterile with modern lenses. Lenses that give me the gentle focus roll off and a shallower DOF control at wide angle are cinematic and three dimensional. Go too wide & slow and you have a very 'flat' look where infinity focus starts at 3m.

    This is where the other methods of highlighting your subject and creating dimensionality come in: camera movement, blocking, composition, and light. For example, these shots all have very deep DoF, but also create an immersive sense of depth and look 100% cinematic. https://vimeo.com/94628727

    On full frame 35mm F2.0 is definitely a sweet spot.

    28mm on Super 35mm = 42mm, not too far off.

    39.2, actually. Super 35 is a 1.4 crop. But that 35-40mm range is definitely my favorite. Wide enough to be useful, standard enough not to draw attention to itself.
     

    28mm on the 1D C in 4K is interesting...you get 36mm in APS-H 4K, then can crop to 42mm for the Super 35mm look in post without losing much resolution. You can't really do that with 1080p.

    Then in stills mode of course it is a 28mm. Like having 3 lenses in one!!

    Nice, innit? That's what I like about using the BMPCC and the GH3. I can use the same lens with a 2x crop, 2.9x crop, and 6x crop (ex tele mode) and never lose HD. 
     

    The Zeiss Distagon 28mm F2.0 is a lovely lens. They don't call it the "Hollywood" for nothing. Shoot with it wide open.

    Just don't focus and recompose wide open. It has significant field distortion, which is both a problem and a big reason for its cinematic reputation. http://blog.mingthein.com/2012/07/19/zf28distagon/
     

    When I was shooting with the GH2 I used to prefer longer lenses. Favourite focal lengths were 35mm and 85mm. 14mm and 50mm didn't do it for me for some reason. On the 1.86x crop sensor 35mm and 85mm were practically telephoto in full frame terms compared to what I use the most now!

    Same! 35mm and 58mm have become my mainstay focal lengths on M4/3. Never would've guessed I'd enjoy shooting that long, but they just don't render as brutally telephoto as on S35 and 135. 
     

    By the way the edges of the lens are as important as how they render the field of view.

    I think a slight vignette wide open is very attractive and also bokeh that curves at the edges slightly makes for a more immersive, dreamy picture, and it doesn't have to be extreme - just subtle.

    The easiest way to lose the magic is to take a vintage c-mount lens and crop out just the centre. Or take a full frame 24mm F1.4 shot and crop into. It isn't the resolution loss or just the deeper DOF that makes it look bad. You lose the character of the edges of the lens and the overall rendering of field of view that it was designed to do, artistically.

    This is something we've never seen eye to eye on. While edge aberrations can sometimes be nice, especially on anamorphic, they undercut the reality I'm working so hard to make my audience buy. If I want to use the corner of my frame, that corner needs to be usable. Otherwise, the audience is going to miss out on important information. 

    You can have a sharp, neutral frame all the way across and still look cinematic as hell. The proof is in almost every Hollywood film ever made. PL mount lenses are specifically designed to cover a larger area than S35 so that the edge problems are cropped out. Weird bokeh and cool artifacts may entrance us artist types, but the audience doesn't give a toss. It doesn't endear them the way it endears us. 

    The key to cinematic lenses lies elsewhere, IMO. Among other things, low global contrast, good resolving power, and control over CA are far more important. The GH4 and Blackmagic cameras don't use the edge of SLR Magic lenses, but, used correctly, they still produce the most cinematic images I've seen out of either camera. 
    https://vimeo.com/100916003 https://vimeo.com/110024810 

    Cruddy corners just don't give me as many options as a clean frame I can dirty up in post, with filters, or by cranking the lens wide open. 

    I think a better explanation for that crop looking bad is that shots cropped in post-production generally weren't composed with that field of view/rendering in mind, so it ends up looking sloppy. 

    To each his own. :)

  11. was just testing a little bit. think for me, as a normal lens, for closeups, 28mm (44.8mm equiv) is a little too wide. I get in the article they were saying slightly wide to make things subtly weird, but imo, at closeup distance at least, it is no longer subtle. 35mm flattened it out a lot more, not that flatter is always better. 31mm seemed to be a sweet spot for my test in terms of focal length going unnoticed, which is basically my exact 50mm equiv - hadn't really seen that for myself before as being the perfect middle ground, and it's a little dissatisfying that it's where I landed really, but makes sense for certain shots that you don't want to accidentally make stylized. Of course when everything is further from the lens, wider becomes acceptably subtle, and maybe 28mm even for closeups could work for the "film look", but in storytelling terms, this is where I'm leaning. (fyi - kit lens distortion may have rendered my opinion completely meaningless)

    Oh, I would never use a 28mm for a close-up. They're more for medium/wide shots composed in depth or Spielberg one-ers. Wide without being distracting. 

  12. Yeah, I'd say it depends on your priorities. If you love to crop, use lenses without IS handheld, and regularly print 24x36 and larger, the A7RII is for you. If you prefer cleaner low-light images, take long video clips that can't be paused for overheating, and don't mind an external recorder, the A7S is becoming a pretty good value. 

    Always decide what you want out of a new purchase first. Then, and only then, should you start perusing cameras to find one that fits your wish list.

  13. I'm hoping that the Blackmagic Assist works with the GH4. The panel isn't great from what I hear but it would be a nice 5" touch screen recorder to SD cards.

    Strongly considering it as well, both as a 10-bit recorder for the GH4 and a nicer screen for the BMPCC. I'm less concerned about that panel quality than with Blackmagic's cagey-ness about what exposure tools will be included. We still don't know if it'll have false color, waveform, or LUT support. 

    I don't mind adding an external recorder as long as I have full-size HDMI on both ends. It's micro HDMI that's the problem.

  14. I"m considering buying it. I agree with PannySVHS though. It would be nice to have a battery grip type device that can be hand-held with an additional HDMI and SDI output.

    Once I sell off a couple things and pick up the GH4, I'm strongly considering it. If you shoot indoors fairly often--which I do--then the full-sized HDMI and the audio connections are worth the extra wall socket.

  15. Well that answers my question. 24-50 every few mm counts. That's why I want to experiment. I've never used great PL glass with 24, 25, 28, 32 so I guess I made a mistake by saying untraditional. I'm going to start testing different incremental mm's to find a unique look to what I've always shot (18,24,35,50).

    The other half of it is popularity. The vast majority of shots take place with focal lengths between 28 and 50, so there are tons of different options. It's like how there's lots of slightly different four-door sedans, but less different kinds of trucks. 

    Looks great. Gonna look out on ebay for one.

    It's this one. Nice lens, if a little overpriced and big.

    http://blog.mingthein.com/2012/07/19/zf28distagon/

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