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Posts posted by Cosimo murgolo
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Thanks again everyone for all the advice.
Yesterday was my first full day shooting and I have to say the Komputerbay cards performed brilliantly! The same can't be said for the Lexar, which crapped out at 4 seconds!! Needless to say it will be going back.Thanks for all the advice everyone, much appreciated.
I have had chance to do some experimentation and I am loving the results I am getting! The image looks fantastic!
My work flow at the minute is looking like this:
- Shoot 1600 x 1200px (Getting around 40 seconds with no overlays, 7 sec with overlays!?!)
- Convert to DNG using RAWMagic lite
- Import to After Effects CC as a DNG sequence
- Interpret footage: (23.976 fps) (Pixel aspect ratio 2:1 Anamorphic)
- Drop onto the 'Create New Comp' button (to maintain settings) name this comp 'Footage'
- Create new comp (little tip) enter the width and hight as 266 x 100, which = 2.66:1. (Or whatever ratio you want) Then lock the aspect ratio. Enter the width of the format you want to work in, in this case 1920. This will work out the hight for you ;) 1920 x 722px. Name this 2.66.
- Drop the comp named footage from before into the 2.66 comp and scale the size to 60.5%
- Then adjust the scale to suite your focal length. eg. at 2 meters I was using 60% width 65% hight to adjust for the change in squeeze at shorter focal lengths.
- If you want the black bars (and lets face it you might) create a comp at 1920 x 1080 and drop the 2.66 comp into it.
- If you want to grade you footage go back to the comp named Footage and select the DNG sequence. To to Edit>Edit Origonal to boot Camera Raw.
- Render to what ever format you like :)
Sorry to bother you again, just for me to know, if you don't mind, may I ask you what kind of lexar were you using? cos mine handles very well 1600x1200 4:3 continuous recording.
lexar 1066x 64 gb and I also tried it in slow motion 48fps 1920x 508 stretched to 1920x818
Thanks in advance
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ML = raw video, and more and more and more.
a quick search on youtube or internet and you will be bombarded with lots of infos.
Have fun!!!!
Main website http://www.magiclantern.fm/
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Oh yeh, forgot about that, good point! You can also apply the colour profile set by your camera.
http://www.vision-color.com/visionlog/
vision log is a flat profile which you can add in acr or lightroom.
Excuse my double post!!!
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you probably know about this, check it out for the ones who don't
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http://www.ebay.it/itm/171358674549?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
lexar 1066 64gb
Last price for you on this forum.
The card is new , never opened, still sealed.
220 euro.
PM if interested -
I might be wrong , but IMO it's not the right aspect ratio, I like the video, keep sharing!!!
Thanks
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HI comurit,
I'm using an Iscomorphot 8 1.5x with 5D Mk II. Your question on which taking lens is suitable is something I have been trying to figure out and experimenting with, to the detriment of my wallet. Try reading Andrew's anamorphic shooting guide for clues. My personal findings (may be wrong) are that to minimize vignetting on a full frame:
1) If you are not using crop mode, don't go shorter that 85mm for taking lens (I would guess 105mm is a safer bet)
2) Choose a taking lens that has a very narrow lens barrel (pardon if I get the term incorrect), meaning the lens diameter is not fat like a Sigma 35mm F1.4, but very thin like the Asahi Pentax 35mm F3.5 (M42) that I am using (risking daily the mirror hitting the rear element of the lens)
3) Try using crop mode paired with a wide lens (35mm x3 will be 105mm) - I searched ebay and found that even old manual focus lens in the 85mm-105mm focal length are not "thin" enough as mentioned in (2) and thus non-crop mode will be a struggle.
4) Mount the anamorphic lens as close as possible to the taking lens front element.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for your tips, but the item has been sold.
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Thanks! I just ordered a Singer 16d so my next step is getting either a Helios or the Jupiter and a clamp
What does M42 to EF adaptor mean?
Also, I'm looking to do a mix of both close-up angles and landscapes. Which focal length would work better, 58mm or the 85mm?
Do I need a diopter? Are there rings that allow for single focusing?
85MM to 135mm for sure, get the jupiter, with helios 58mm you will get vignette.
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f....`!!!!!!!!! I was wrong!!!!
But I have tried with a Soligor 135mm F3.5 and there was vignetting all over
Why????
Thanks anyway
I am going to try with helios M44 58mm tomorrow.
Or which taking lens will be suitable?
But on the video if you look carefully there is vignetting, it's shot wide open right?
That's the secret?
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Or, if you like, you can get the one I am selling http://www.ebay.it/itm/171343697015?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 which is right for your camera (APS), I used to use it with my 60D.
it comes with a redstan adapter and you will not go crazy with double focusing.
I have used it with great pleasure, with an helios M44 58mm f2 and also with a super takumar 50mm F1.4.
It 's a single focus anamorphic, you set your taking lens to infinity and focus only with the anamorphic.
No need to struggle with double focusing.
I am selling it cos I bought myself a full frame camera and I can't no longer use it.
Like Chris Elkerton says "you will end up spending all your time looking for bargains and you will spend money".
Good luck anyway, I hope you will enjoy the anamorphic world and join us soon
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just a question before selling this out just to be sure.
my iscomorphot can 't be used on a full frame camera right?
cos I haven't tried it yet.
I just heard that it creates vignette.
please do correct me if I am wrong.
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Yes its an M42 lens.
Get the black one (not the silver) & pay around £150.
Also, with M42 lenses sometimes the adaptors allow the lens to go past infinity, so normally you need to turn it back a bit in order to get infinity - this maybe what you're experiencing.
Yes, I think you are right, so there is no need to remove the spacer ring, am I right?
I had no problem with the 60D, but anyway, I had look at the site for M42 compatability, it's a shame for the super takumar 50mm 1.4.
i might be bothering you for something else, if you don't mind of course.
Thanks for all the infos.
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Failure to hit INF is a back focus issue. Sometimes the interaction of scope and lens messes with the back focus.
Your lens may have a spacer ring inside it which you could remove to get the back focus sorted. All Zeiss Jena lenses from the 60s have a spacer.
Thanks for the tip, could you recommend any tutorial online on how to remove the spacer ring?
cheers!!!
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The Tair 11a 135mm f2.8 (preset aperture with 20 aperture blades) - awesome lens & fits anamorphics perfectly!
For M42 lenses & compatability with 5D, use this link:
Thanks Bishop as usually I get good tips from you.
Is the Tair 11a 135mm f2.8 a m42 attachment?
How much should I pay for one, and do you have any valid ebay link?
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Try primes from 35mm to 85mm. What's the rear diameter of the sankor? With a 50 you could get vignetting
Thanks, I know with sankor I must use 135mm, I will use 50mm lens without the anamorphic lens.
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Hi everyone, I just bought a 5D and I was wondering about a taking lens that works best with my sankor 16D.
I already have a Soligor 135mm 3.5 M42 but I have noticed that it doesn't focus to infinity.
So without spending a fortune on canon L series lens do you have an alternative and good substitute?
Do you know anything about Asahi super takumar 50mm 1.4 lens hitting the camera's mirror?
Thank you in advance.
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http://www.ebay.it/itm/171343697015?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649#viTabs_0
If you are interested ,please PM me
Thanks!!!
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Well the 5D3 won't be too hard a workflow soon, especially now that ML .mlv raw recording mode is supported by FFMPEG.
The only thing that would swing me towards the GH4 is the slow-mo, but you can ramp up ML RAW with fps override - not to 96fps though.
Also, with a dedicated speedbooster coming out your lenses will become faster & FF on the GH4.
Damn! Its a tough choice, but Andrew is going to release another article which, by the sounds of it, will deal with this exact question.
How's the GH4 with pictures, because if it isn't as good as the 5D3 then that would be a deal breaker for me.
However, the most important question is, Do you need 4K?
& a 4K which doesn't have the kind of DR that 5D3 RAW does...
Personally, wait for more [better] footage to surface.
As usual, you are always very kind to reply and leave good tips, I really appreciate that, I mean it.
Thank you very much, yes it's a tough choice.
It will all depend how much money I'll raise, as I am selling some stuff on ebay.
A canon 60D + canon 17-55 f2.8 + canon 10-22 f 3.5 4.5 and a canon 50mm 1.8 all together.
Sorry a bit of advertisement there, but you see I don't give a link as most people do everywhere.
Thanks anyway.
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This is the anamorphic section of the forum. In the general section of the Forum there are more threads about both 5DMk3 and GH4. Here's a recent thread for 5DMk3: '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>>
Thank you very much for the link.
The camera I am going to get it will be paired with an anamorphic lens. :)
Tusen takk!!
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I think it's updating the website, that's all.
it will come back, or you can contact him through ebay.
I hope it helped
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I am about to get a new camera, but I can make my mind up whether to take a 5d or gh4.
I know for sure that I love and I want it to record short footage that have a film look.
The 5d with the raw features will let me have more room on color grading, but I am also concerning the the post production work.
The gh4 I think is more for documentaries work, looks nice don't get me wrong.
What do guy think? What shall I get.
I know this is personal but I am struggling, I can't decide.
Thank you very much for your help. -
Play nice guys
A need is something you have to have, something you can't do without. A good example is food. If you don't eat, you won't survive for long. Many people have gone days without eating, but they eventually ate a lot of food. You might not need a whole lot of food, but you do need to eat.
A want is something you would like to have. It is not absolutely necessary, but it would be a good thing to have. A good example is music. Now, some people might argue that music is a need because they think they can't do without it. But you don't need music to survive. You do need to eat.
One of the most basic concepts of economics.
I think you all know the answer, so stop arguing over the price, nobody is forcing you to buying it, what is your need?
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I like it very much, nice set up, I also like the color grading a lot.
Keep sharing.
Best regards
Shooting ML Raw Anamorphic Advice
In: Cameras
Posted
Yeah, sorry, I must have missed that bit, thanks for letting me know that.