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valid

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  1. That Cinevision looks great! Hans - is that a tiny taking lens attached to it? (the zebra ring)

    Does anyone have any experience with the yashica 8 or sankyoscope?

  2. Great! Thanks guys. The Animex/Iscomorphot 2x sounds like the best choice so far :-) How does the Bolex Moller 8/19/1.5 compare? Or the yashica scope?

    PS - regarding the VM lens - what distance is it fixed to? Is it sharp? I've heard before that it has bad CA.

  3. Hey guys

    What are your favourite "baby" / 8mm anamorphics? Other than the well-known hypergonar 8, of course ;-) Mostly interested in sharpness and image quality - not worried about double focus etc.

    Looking to build a small anamorphic shooting setup, to balance my Kowa B&H.

  4. No, I don't think so. For comparison - the BMCC is 2.3x crop from full frame, and the widest taking lens I can use with my Kowa B&H (similar to 8z) is around 28mm. 25mm vignettes but is also usable if you crop the sides off.

  5. The Panavision Superama is a 2X stretch as well ;)  Btw in this case the "panavision" brand isn't necessarily a "quality standard" because it's just a projection lens. It's not like you're buying a Primo :D

    In terms of optical design, the Superama is pretty similar to the smaller hypergonar-16 series of lenses, and the sankor 16c variants.

    EDIT: actually just did my homework, turns out that the superama comes in 2X and 1.5X stretch. I had only come across the 2X version before. In any case I don't think it's a particularly special lens.

  6.    I found the lens clamp with screws very difficult to use and the lens body will get damaged soon after a few more shootings. Is there any other clamps you guys use that can avoid the touching of the lens body and the screws in order to protect the lens?

    ​Yes - check out the redstan.com clamps :-) They come with nylon bolts which don't scratch the lens. Also, the Redstan clamp for the Kowa B&H is amazing (I have it) because it screws in a retaining ring, so the bolts are just for fixing the alignment, not for holding the lens :-)

       I found that my 12-35 2.8 can work with the Kowa on 35mm and the auto focus + Power OIS is just amazing. But for the focusing of other manual lens, what I did is trying to set the focus of the Kowa to a approximate distance and then focus on the prime lens. It's quite complicated. Is it possible that I can set the focus of the Kowa to infinite and then just focus according to the prime lens?

    ​Not really. Sometimes it will work like you describe, but then your bokeh will be weird (horizontally stretched) if your taking lens focus and anamorphic front focus are misaligned. Try to focus on the taking lens (by eye) - then look at its distance marker - then set the anemorphic to the same distance marker - then fine-tune the taking lens :-)

  7. That's the 8Z. The Bell-Howell is bigger- more like 70-ish mm. I tried all combinations of step rings/filters - in the end just got the redstan clamp and it's a perfect fit :-)

  8. I was also planning on using the FM with my Kowa B&H (which they promised to be compatible) - only to find out at the very end that it won't work. Luckily I waited until after the first batch received theirs, otherwise I would've missed that.

    To be fair I think it was just shitty organisation and testing on their part, rather than deliberately misleading - but in any case I won't be ordering a FM any time soon.

  9. I had one which looked much better (less worse?) than that, but even then when I disassembled it I could see that the rear elements were practically falling apart from each other.

    In theory it's fixable, you just need to decement the separating elements, and then recement them together. Up to you if you want to do it ;-) I personally decided that it wasn't worth the ball-ache and just kept mine for spares

     

    PS in practice the separation will appear as patches of softness in the image. Not drastic, but definitely not a perfect image.

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