visionrouge

I'm so sorry you feel offended by my previous post.😘
As you admit yourself not having any geek knowledge to determine the exact usage a NVMe drive; I was just trying to clarify the post you where sharing. It was, in no way, an attack to the filmmakers community that knows shit about technical stuff but still keep re-posting absurdities.

My only goal is to make this great forum a better place with my real life experience (and love.🥰)

I always had a commitment to support the filmmaker community. I can only bow to your message and ask you for ultimate forgiveness.🙏 please, please.

I hope my personal hack last Sunday, on this forum, with an easy way to reset the Canon R5 timer is enough to be absolved.

Please accept my full apologies if you felt I was having condescending tone or look like I was some kind of geek. Even if my degree was related to computer science, believe me; I have tried to stay away from techies and other complicated process my entire life. A quick fact check on my previous post and personal blog should reassure you. 
The truce is far less interesting. It's almost sad, even. 
I'm a very simple camera guy. I have been shooting only few days so far;
 made a count last year and it was just about 1,000 shooting for the past 15 years. I have put this in my humble website if you like to give a look by following my profile name. I know it's a low and this is obliviously due to my lack of skills as a cameraman too. I really sucks at everything I commit.
My client are obscure companies like Disney, IBM, Apple... as you may check. My eyes start to be full of water when writing this down. 

The "Filmmaker" title's is way beyond my reaches as my old age is now a translation of back pain and loss of eyesight.
I might be retiring without even getting the glorious title of "DoP". Ok, you are making me cry now. It was not a good idea to write about this.😢

And you know the worst of all; I don't even own a Canon R5. I had to ask for help here from a fellow member to test and validate my findings. Only this way it have been proven to work.
The saddest thing of all;I have invested on two Sony FS7's few years back and may never be able to shoot with a DSLR. I',m stuck using cine lens and other heavy gear forever.
That mean that I will not use my hack for myself and will donate the entire result to the the community I was hoping to join once. 

Thank you for listening. Here is love again ❤️💖❤️for you and the beautiful movies you have been making all over the world that I can see nowhere.
 

You are taking sentence out of the context.
Yes, a drive is not removable easily from the enclosure and, no you may not swap drive on the fly. It's like saying SSD are not removable media. Still, they are used everyday as removable media cause the interface is something else that what is inside the enclosure.

But this system is an enclosure for NVMe drive that will put the heat away from the card reader , allowing cheaper and very large drive capacity.
The heat generated by the card can be way easier dissipated than a CFExpress card. I actually have such enclosure for another project, it's all aluminium with a thermal pad around

And, by the way, you should talk to DJI; this is what they use on their Inspire 2 as drive.... But they change the connector type to be more sturdy.

If you look at ZITAY product, they already successfully implement such solution for black-magic camera, without a need for extra external power. (CFFast to SSD)
The product needs to be tested, but it specifically states R5 and Z6 / Z7 (and other C300 camera)
It have a screw thread to secure it to a cage. This will help dissipate heat.
And if you go for large version, it's a great option to reduce overall cost.

CFExpress card are kinda 512 GB max, with nvme you can go to 4TB for similar price. You unscrew the drive when you have 4TB of data, so, maybe one a day.

This product come with a cover to push the door switch and so let the cable going out. So the door will be open during shooting.

I have 0 test so far, but it's look great to me on the paper. I let you do some research on their website, and not just pick up sentences from a different discussion in a blog.

I'm so sorry you feel offended by my previous post.😘
As you admit yourself not having any geek knowledge to determine the exact usage a NVMe drive; I was just trying to clarify the post you where sharing. It was, in no way, an attack to the filmmakers community that knows shit about technical stuff but still keep re-posting absurdities.

My only goal is to make this great forum a better place with my real life experience (and love.🥰)

I always had a commitment to support the filmmaker community. I can only bow to your message and ask you for ultimate forgiveness.🙏 please, please.

I hope my personal hack last Sunday, on this forum, with an easy way to reset the Canon R5 timer is enough to be absolved.

Please accept my full apologies if you felt I was having condescending tone or look like I was some kind of geek. Even if my degree was related to computer science, believe me; I have tried to stay away from techies and other complicated process my entire life. A quick fact check on my previous post and personal blog should reassure you. 
The truce is far less interesting. It's almost sad, even. 
I'm a very simple camera guy. I have been shooting only few days so far;
 made a count last year and it was just about 1,000 shooting for the past 15 years. I have put this in my humble website if you like to give a look by following my profile name. I know it's a low and this is obliviously due to my lack of skills as a cameraman too. I really sucks at everything I commit.
My client are obscure companies like Disney, IBM, Apple... as you may check. My eyes start to be full of water when writing this down. 

The "Filmmaker" title's is way beyond my reaches as my old age is now a translation of back pain and loss of eyesight.
I might be retiring without even getting the glorious title of "DoP". Ok, you are making me cry now. It was not a good idea to write about this.😢

And you know the worst of all; I don't even own a Canon R5. I had to ask for help here from a fellow member to test and validate my findings. Only this way it have been proven to work.
The saddest thing of all;I have invested on two Sony FS7's few years back and may never be able to shoot with a DSLR. I',m stuck using cine lens and other heavy gear forever.
That mean that I will not use my hack for myself and will donate the entire result to the the community I was hoping to join once. 

Thank you for listening. Here is love again ❤️💖❤️for you and the beautiful movies you have been making all over the world that I can see nowhere.
 

Well, one tester is not enough, please try to do the experience if you have a R5.
The procedure is explained here.
https://www.visionrouge.net/canon-r5-overheating-hack-solved/

In short:
- Power the camera with a external battery and close the door beside the R5 (you can also do the screw trick if you like)
- Record video until you see the overheating logo, or even until the camera shut down.
- Turn off the camera by using the power button so your recording parameters (ISO and so one) are saved.
- Turn back on the power.
- Go to the menu, Change the time of the day to +3 hours at least (or add a day)
- Drop the power by disconnecting the external battery
- wait 30 seconds
- Put back the external battery. the overheat issue should be gone.
(if not, you may actually be in real overheat situation), try in 10mn...
Please share your findings.

Ok, my trick works apparently. Tested by yourboylloyd on Magic Lantern Forum

Record as you wish.
When overheat occur. stop recording. Change the date.
Drop the power (using the screw story or dumb battery)
Put it back.
Timer is gone!
All camera parameters are saved. No need to open the camera, no need to lose your clip.
BOOOMMMMM
https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=24827.msg230515#msg230515

 

Thanks for finally put my words in video.
Do you mind if In put this one into my post?
https://www.visionrouge.net/canon-r5-overheating-hack-solved/
 

Confirmed by dellfonic user on magic lantern.
This is the final refinement on my hack.
You have the right time for your recordings!

No, No need to do anything

It's very simple.
Canon do a very simple calculation.
When camera is running, a counter is setup. When the counter reach a certain level, you have a warning logo.
If you keep recording, the Log will become a shut down. This raise a flag that I will call "Fake Overheating flag"

At each of these step Canon is writing the exact time this occurs. Let's call it the "overheat start time".
This is done in an eeprom that is kept even if you remove the battery. The writing occurs when you shut down with the power button. This is the mistake right there.

There are only one way of getting the camera to work again is to wait extra time.
Canon do a simple calculation between "actual time" and "overheat start time". This way, even if the camera is off without battery, they can keep the time running with the help of the RTC.
It's a way of doing coding something very fast.

They also put a conditional test on "Fake Overheating flag" to make sure changing the time during the overheat mode will not change this calculation. My best guess is that they modify the "overheat start time" with the same value the camera time is shifted in this condition only. So each tentative to play this way is not working.

But I have the impression that the new "overheat start time" is written ONLY when the camera is power down. The new real time is written immediately.
So by dropping the battery, you are avoiding the "overheat start time" to be written and only the last one is in the memory.

When the power is restored, there is the calculation to see if you have been waiting enough. But based on the old "overheat start time", not the one shifted by the time modification. BOOOOM.

So the flag is now remove and the camera can start.
Even better, The camera is writing this new "Fake Overheating flag" value into the EEprom. So you can turn off the right way and it will restart without any problem.

You can now shift the time back, there is no check for a possible "overheat start time" cause we are not supposed to be in overheating mode.

So whatever card you are using, whatever R5 or R6, whatever firmware... it's working.
That was my idea at first when I noticed that the battery drop do not save all parameters. An yes, it works so beautifully.

I'm so sorry you feel offended by my previous post.😘
As you admit yourself not having any geek knowledge to determine the exact usage a NVMe drive; I was just trying to clarify the post you where sharing. It was, in no way, an attack to the filmmakers community that knows shit about technical stuff but still keep re-posting absurdities.

My only goal is to make this great forum a better place with my real life experience (and love.🥰)

I always had a commitment to support the filmmaker community. I can only bow to your message and ask you for ultimate forgiveness.🙏 please, please.

I hope my personal hack last Sunday, on this forum, with an easy way to reset the Canon R5 timer is enough to be absolved.

Please accept my full apologies if you felt I was having condescending tone or look like I was some kind of geek. Even if my degree was related to computer science, believe me; I have tried to stay away from techies and other complicated process my entire life. A quick fact check on my previous post and personal blog should reassure you. 
The truce is far less interesting. It's almost sad, even. 
I'm a very simple camera guy. I have been shooting only few days so far;
 made a count last year and it was just about 1,000 shooting for the past 15 years. I have put this in my humble website if you like to give a look by following my profile name. I know it's a low and this is obliviously due to my lack of skills as a cameraman too. I really sucks at everything I commit.
My client are obscure companies like Disney, IBM, Apple... as you may check. My eyes start to be full of water when writing this down. 

The "Filmmaker" title's is way beyond my reaches as my old age is now a translation of back pain and loss of eyesight.
I might be retiring without even getting the glorious title of "DoP". Ok, you are making me cry now. It was not a good idea to write about this.😢

And you know the worst of all; I don't even own a Canon R5. I had to ask for help here from a fellow member to test and validate my findings. Only this way it have been proven to work.
The saddest thing of all;I have invested on two Sony FS7's few years back and may never be able to shoot with a DSLR. I',m stuck using cine lens and other heavy gear forever.
That mean that I will not use my hack for myself and will donate the entire result to the the community I was hoping to join once. 

Thank you for listening. Here is love again ❤️💖❤️for you and the beautiful movies you have been making all over the world that I can see nowhere.
 

I'm so sorry you feel offended by my previous post.😘
As you admit yourself not having any geek knowledge to determine the exact usage a NVMe drive; I was just trying to clarify the post you where sharing. It was, in no way, an attack to the filmmakers community that knows shit about technical stuff but still keep re-posting absurdities.

My only goal is to make this great forum a better place with my real life experience (and love.🥰)

I always had a commitment to support the filmmaker community. I can only bow to your message and ask you for ultimate forgiveness.🙏 please, please.

I hope my personal hack last Sunday, on this forum, with an easy way to reset the Canon R5 timer is enough to be absolved.

Please accept my full apologies if you felt I was having condescending tone or look like I was some kind of geek. Even if my degree was related to computer science, believe me; I have tried to stay away from techies and other complicated process my entire life. A quick fact check on my previous post and personal blog should reassure you. 
The truce is far less interesting. It's almost sad, even. 
I'm a very simple camera guy. I have been shooting only few days so far;
 made a count last year and it was just about 1,000 shooting for the past 15 years. I have put this in my humble website if you like to give a look by following my profile name. I know it's a low and this is obliviously due to my lack of skills as a cameraman too. I really sucks at everything I commit.
My client are obscure companies like Disney, IBM, Apple... as you may check. My eyes start to be full of water when writing this down. 

The "Filmmaker" title's is way beyond my reaches as my old age is now a translation of back pain and loss of eyesight.
I might be retiring without even getting the glorious title of "DoP". Ok, you are making me cry now. It was not a good idea to write about this.😢

And you know the worst of all; I don't even own a Canon R5. I had to ask for help here from a fellow member to test and validate my findings. Only this way it have been proven to work.
The saddest thing of all;I have invested on two Sony FS7's few years back and may never be able to shoot with a DSLR. I',m stuck using cine lens and other heavy gear forever.
That mean that I will not use my hack for myself and will donate the entire result to the the community I was hoping to join once. 

Thank you for listening. Here is love again ❤️💖❤️for you and the beautiful movies you have been making all over the world that I can see nowhere.
 

I'm so sorry you feel offended by my previous post.😘
As you admit yourself not having any geek knowledge to determine the exact usage a NVMe drive; I was just trying to clarify the post you where sharing. It was, in no way, an attack to the filmmakers community that knows shit about technical stuff but still keep re-posting absurdities.

My only goal is to make this great forum a better place with my real life experience (and love.🥰)

I always had a commitment to support the filmmaker community. I can only bow to your message and ask you for ultimate forgiveness.🙏 please, please.

I hope my personal hack last Sunday, on this forum, with an easy way to reset the Canon R5 timer is enough to be absolved.

Please accept my full apologies if you felt I was having condescending tone or look like I was some kind of geek. Even if my degree was related to computer science, believe me; I have tried to stay away from techies and other complicated process my entire life. A quick fact check on my previous post and personal blog should reassure you. 
The truce is far less interesting. It's almost sad, even. 
I'm a very simple camera guy. I have been shooting only few days so far;
 made a count last year and it was just about 1,000 shooting for the past 15 years. I have put this in my humble website if you like to give a look by following my profile name. I know it's a low and this is obliviously due to my lack of skills as a cameraman too. I really sucks at everything I commit.
My client are obscure companies like Disney, IBM, Apple... as you may check. My eyes start to be full of water when writing this down. 

The "Filmmaker" title's is way beyond my reaches as my old age is now a translation of back pain and loss of eyesight.
I might be retiring without even getting the glorious title of "DoP". Ok, you are making me cry now. It was not a good idea to write about this.😢

And you know the worst of all; I don't even own a Canon R5. I had to ask for help here from a fellow member to test and validate my findings. Only this way it have been proven to work.
The saddest thing of all;I have invested on two Sony FS7's few years back and may never be able to shoot with a DSLR. I',m stuck using cine lens and other heavy gear forever.
That mean that I will not use my hack for myself and will donate the entire result to the the community I was hoping to join once. 

Thank you for listening. Here is love again ❤️💖❤️for you and the beautiful movies you have been making all over the world that I can see nowhere.
 

You are taking sentence out of the context.
Yes, a drive is not removable easily from the enclosure and, no you may not swap drive on the fly. It's like saying SSD are not removable media. Still, they are used everyday as removable media cause the interface is something else that what is inside the enclosure.

But this system is an enclosure for NVMe drive that will put the heat away from the card reader , allowing cheaper and very large drive capacity.
The heat generated by the card can be way easier dissipated than a CFExpress card. I actually have such enclosure for another project, it's all aluminium with a thermal pad around

And, by the way, you should talk to DJI; this is what they use on their Inspire 2 as drive.... But they change the connector type to be more sturdy.

If you look at ZITAY product, they already successfully implement such solution for black-magic camera, without a need for extra external power. (CFFast to SSD)
The product needs to be tested, but it specifically states R5 and Z6 / Z7 (and other C300 camera)
It have a screw thread to secure it to a cage. This will help dissipate heat.
And if you go for large version, it's a great option to reduce overall cost.

CFExpress card are kinda 512 GB max, with nvme you can go to 4TB for similar price. You unscrew the drive when you have 4TB of data, so, maybe one a day.

This product come with a cover to push the door switch and so let the cable going out. So the door will be open during shooting.

I have 0 test so far, but it's look great to me on the paper. I let you do some research on their website, and not just pick up sentences from a different discussion in a blog.

Great finding, I was looking for such without success few weeks back. I guess t's about market demand versus offer!

I did similar test on my DJI Inspire 2 and I did not lost any data writing raw 5K.
I'ts also a money saver as you only buying the drive and not the card.

This is one way to solve 2 issues at once.

USD 150 if you found them online in China. https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.28.29076df3HVdowO&id=626009844453

The price will be falling down as soon as competition kicks in.
 

You are taking sentence out of the context.
Yes, a drive is not removable easily from the enclosure and, no you may not swap drive on the fly. It's like saying SSD are not removable media. Still, they are used everyday as removable media cause the interface is something else that what is inside the enclosure.

But this system is an enclosure for NVMe drive that will put the heat away from the card reader , allowing cheaper and very large drive capacity.
The heat generated by the card can be way easier dissipated than a CFExpress card. I actually have such enclosure for another project, it's all aluminium with a thermal pad around

And, by the way, you should talk to DJI; this is what they use on their Inspire 2 as drive.... But they change the connector type to be more sturdy.

If you look at ZITAY product, they already successfully implement such solution for black-magic camera, without a need for extra external power. (CFFast to SSD)
The product needs to be tested, but it specifically states R5 and Z6 / Z7 (and other C300 camera)
It have a screw thread to secure it to a cage. This will help dissipate heat.
And if you go for large version, it's a great option to reduce overall cost.

CFExpress card are kinda 512 GB max, with nvme you can go to 4TB for similar price. You unscrew the drive when you have 4TB of data, so, maybe one a day.

This product come with a cover to push the door switch and so let the cable going out. So the door will be open during shooting.

I have 0 test so far, but it's look great to me on the paper. I let you do some research on their website, and not just pick up sentences from a different discussion in a blog.

You are taking sentence out of the context.
Yes, a drive is not removable easily from the enclosure and, no you may not swap drive on the fly. It's like saying SSD are not removable media. Still, they are used everyday as removable media cause the interface is something else that what is inside the enclosure.

But this system is an enclosure for NVMe drive that will put the heat away from the card reader , allowing cheaper and very large drive capacity.
The heat generated by the card can be way easier dissipated than a CFExpress card. I actually have such enclosure for another project, it's all aluminium with a thermal pad around

And, by the way, you should talk to DJI; this is what they use on their Inspire 2 as drive.... But they change the connector type to be more sturdy.

If you look at ZITAY product, they already successfully implement such solution for black-magic camera, without a need for extra external power. (CFFast to SSD)
The product needs to be tested, but it specifically states R5 and Z6 / Z7 (and other C300 camera)
It have a screw thread to secure it to a cage. This will help dissipate heat.
And if you go for large version, it's a great option to reduce overall cost.

CFExpress card are kinda 512 GB max, with nvme you can go to 4TB for similar price. You unscrew the drive when you have 4TB of data, so, maybe one a day.

This product come with a cover to push the door switch and so let the cable going out. So the door will be open during shooting.

I have 0 test so far, but it's look great to me on the paper. I let you do some research on their website, and not just pick up sentences from a different discussion in a blog.

Btw u can downgrade firmware 
 
 

Any chance this cfexpress to nvme ssd could work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/184438464836

Like external recorder on top of camera-hand held do not exist? 
We are not living in the same planet.

More people try to explain canon choice, less it makes sense.

All Canon explanations was about electronics that can't hold warm temperature since day one. I's call "overheating" on all their documentation for a rason.

But as this do not work with the external no limit recording aspect; there is now a new idea floating around about your skin getting burn, but only for internal recording not external cause the camera is on tripod?! And that's why removing the timer is so dangerous? 
But nowhere to be seen on the R5 user manual a specific warning on external recording and heat? Why?

Just because you want to defend Canon and their infamous timer choice?

If you believe such fairy tale;I have some interesting business proposal for you investing on offshore account that will brings you 20% interest in 3 minutes...

And please explain me the "overheat" compare to "do hot to touch"
Why do they even call it "overheat" and not display a "to warm to touch" logo? Why we only talk about this now and not when it all started?

And, wait. Explain the 1 hour cooling time? Especially if it's only to not get people burn by touching and nothing to do with internal temperature.
One hour to be able to touch it again?
Really?

It's time to wake up.





 
 

That explanation do not make sense. When using an external recorder; the camera is also getting super hot and Canon have never limit recording when you do not have a card inside.
Without any hack, you can record forever.

So any exercise to explain that electronic overheat and need an hour to cool down or  that people get burned and other fantasy do not stand when you start talking "external recording" without time limitation.

How all electronics inside the R5 will not fries if you keep recording externally for hours under a body that you can barely touch, but suddenly need limitations, even when using inside a fridge?

Canon need to explain me this very funny temperature management standard.

Either the camera is not safe running at hot temperatures and external recording should be limited.
Either the camera is safe for long recording and the timer should go.



 

If limiting skin exposure to heat is the primary goal of Canon's thermal management they should be able to easily distinguish between hand-held and tripod use via either the IBIS gyros or the camera level sensors, and use that information to establish the appropriate temperature thresholds. With some user warnings to handle the scenario of moving between tripod and hand-held use. 

Canon Just released a Firmware V1.1.1 for R5 and R6

Be aware of possible lock down on my hack finding last Sunday.
Even if I think it will be a very fast answer to roll out a firmware in only 3 days, that's still a possibility.

At least, it may be able to do a file comparison between V1.1.0 et V1.1.1 to see what changed is any.

No, No need to do anything

It's very simple.
Canon do a very simple calculation.
When camera is running, a counter is setup. When the counter reach a certain level, you have a warning logo.
If you keep recording, the Log will become a shut down. This raise a flag that I will call "Fake Overheating flag"

At each of these step Canon is writing the exact time this occurs. Let's call it the "overheat start time".
This is done in an eeprom that is kept even if you remove the battery. The writing occurs when you shut down with the power button. This is the mistake right there.

There are only one way of getting the camera to work again is to wait extra time.
Canon do a simple calculation between "actual time" and "overheat start time". This way, even if the camera is off without battery, they can keep the time running with the help of the RTC.
It's a way of doing coding something very fast.

They also put a conditional test on "Fake Overheating flag" to make sure changing the time during the overheat mode will not change this calculation. My best guess is that they modify the "overheat start time" with the same value the camera time is shifted in this condition only. So each tentative to play this way is not working.

But I have the impression that the new "overheat start time" is written ONLY when the camera is power down. The new real time is written immediately.
So by dropping the battery, you are avoiding the "overheat start time" to be written and only the last one is in the memory.

When the power is restored, there is the calculation to see if you have been waiting enough. But based on the old "overheat start time", not the one shifted by the time modification. BOOOOM.

So the flag is now remove and the camera can start.
Even better, The camera is writing this new "Fake Overheating flag" value into the EEprom. So you can turn off the right way and it will restart without any problem.

You can now shift the time back, there is no check for a possible "overheat start time" cause we are not supposed to be in overheating mode.

So whatever card you are using, whatever R5 or R6, whatever firmware... it's working.
That was my idea at first when I noticed that the battery drop do not save all parameters. An yes, it works so beautifully.

I've created a web-based javascript app that lets you quickly set the camera's clock to +1 day and -1 day to help automate visionrouge's workaround. It only works in browsers that allow you to disable CORS Policy Security. Unfortunately none of the mobile web browsers available support that option, so for now this is limited to home/office/studio use.

Here is the link to the app: http://www.testcams.com/ccapi/datehack.html

Full instructions including how to disable CORS Policy security are in the GitHub repository: https://github.com/horshack-dpreview/canondatehack.html

No, No need to do anything

It's very simple.
Canon do a very simple calculation.
When camera is running, a counter is setup. When the counter reach a certain level, you have a warning logo.
If you keep recording, the Log will become a shut down. This raise a flag that I will call "Fake Overheating flag"

At each of these step Canon is writing the exact time this occurs. Let's call it the "overheat start time".
This is done in an eeprom that is kept even if you remove the battery. The writing occurs when you shut down with the power button. This is the mistake right there.

There are only one way of getting the camera to work again is to wait extra time.
Canon do a simple calculation between "actual time" and "overheat start time". This way, even if the camera is off without battery, they can keep the time running with the help of the RTC.
It's a way of doing coding something very fast.

They also put a conditional test on "Fake Overheating flag" to make sure changing the time during the overheat mode will not change this calculation. My best guess is that they modify the "overheat start time" with the same value the camera time is shifted in this condition only. So each tentative to play this way is not working.

But I have the impression that the new "overheat start time" is written ONLY when the camera is power down. The new real time is written immediately.
So by dropping the battery, you are avoiding the "overheat start time" to be written and only the last one is in the memory.

When the power is restored, there is the calculation to see if you have been waiting enough. But based on the old "overheat start time", not the one shifted by the time modification. BOOOOM.

So the flag is now remove and the camera can start.
Even better, The camera is writing this new "Fake Overheating flag" value into the EEprom. So you can turn off the right way and it will restart without any problem.

You can now shift the time back, there is no check for a possible "overheat start time" cause we are not supposed to be in overheating mode.

So whatever card you are using, whatever R5 or R6, whatever firmware... it's working.
That was my idea at first when I noticed that the battery drop do not save all parameters. An yes, it works so beautifully.

No, No need to do anything

It's very simple.
Canon do a very simple calculation.
When camera is running, a counter is setup. When the counter reach a certain level, you have a warning logo.
If you keep recording, the Log will become a shut down. This raise a flag that I will call "Fake Overheating flag"

At each of these step Canon is writing the exact time this occurs. Let's call it the "overheat start time".
This is done in an eeprom that is kept even if you remove the battery. The writing occurs when you shut down with the power button. This is the mistake right there.

There are only one way of getting the camera to work again is to wait extra time.
Canon do a simple calculation between "actual time" and "overheat start time". This way, even if the camera is off without battery, they can keep the time running with the help of the RTC.
It's a way of doing coding something very fast.

They also put a conditional test on "Fake Overheating flag" to make sure changing the time during the overheat mode will not change this calculation. My best guess is that they modify the "overheat start time" with the same value the camera time is shifted in this condition only. So each tentative to play this way is not working.

But I have the impression that the new "overheat start time" is written ONLY when the camera is power down. The new real time is written immediately.
So by dropping the battery, you are avoiding the "overheat start time" to be written and only the last one is in the memory.

When the power is restored, there is the calculation to see if you have been waiting enough. But based on the old "overheat start time", not the one shifted by the time modification. BOOOOM.

So the flag is now remove and the camera can start.
Even better, The camera is writing this new "Fake Overheating flag" value into the EEprom. So you can turn off the right way and it will restart without any problem.

You can now shift the time back, there is no check for a possible "overheat start time" cause we are not supposed to be in overheating mode.

So whatever card you are using, whatever R5 or R6, whatever firmware... it's working.
That was my idea at first when I noticed that the battery drop do not save all parameters. An yes, it works so beautifully.