jonpais

Because it weighs just 7 ounces and will be compatible with the new Mastor Tech Sailfish SF1 Gimbal ($600) instead of spending over $3,000 for a stabilizer for the GH3/G6. Also, because it's light, if you want to carry one with a wide zoom and the other with a tele zoom, it won't break your neck.

@damphousse All the reviews of 4/3 lenses you've read are terrible?? We must not be reading the same websites, 'cause there are many fine lenses for the format...

Thanks, Ben. Only once, when I switched over from slow motion to normal (24fps) did I notice some jitter, but it's hard to say whether it was the lens or me - I just happen to get tremors every now and then (it runs on my father's side of the family). The shot of the caterpillar was made in ETC mode, and even then, the optical stabilization saved my butt. I never use stabilization in post, so what you see is what you get. Just like all the talk about 'plasticy' skin tones or 'digital' looking images, I think it all comes down to lighting and correct exposure. In fact, I like this lens so much, I'm reluctant to to use my once-favorite 12-35mm f/2.8. And just in case you didn't read the details in the YouTube video, all of the shots were made with sharpness turned down to -4, with no sharpening added in post.

I've been using this lens for a few months now, and while I wish the construction was more confidence-inspiring (it can't compare to the feel of a Voigt, that's for sure!), I'm very pleased with it. I don't get the comments about the lens being too clinical at all. Here's a short clip I shot with the lens last week. http://jonpais.wordpress.com/2013/11/09/sunday-afternoon-in-the-park-a/  

@Jacek Fair enough comparison^^ 

Any advantage of using Speedbooster with a GH3 if you don't already own a collection of legacy lenses? It seems to me that purchasing something like a Cosina 17.5mm f/.95 lens would make more sense if you're looking for speed and shallow depth of field.For example, the Sigma zoom might have excellent optics and build quality, but it is a monster compared to M4/3 lenses and build quality isn't in the same league as the Voigtlander. The only advantage I see is if you are planning to get a bunch of cheap glass on eBay... I don't really see the crop factor as a compelling reason either, as just about every movie I watch has a different aspect ratio. Meanwhile, Panasonic, Olympus and Leica will most assuredly be coming out with faster glass, like the Nocticron 42.5mm f/1.2, and other manufacturers are doing the same.

@Andrew Any chance the book will also deal with how to get the best images in post from the GH3?

Okay, I guess the answer to my question is no! Anyhow, I've since learned that going into the setup menu and selecting *1 or *2 rather than A will prevent the screen brightness from changing according to the ambient light. But so far no one has been able to answer my question about manually adjusting screen brightness. On page 47 of tge GH3 owner's manual, there are instructions for adjusting monitor brightness. Anyone try this function??

I live in Vietnam and am about to pick up the GH3 in Kuala Lumpur. I've been thinking - wouldn't an LCD external monitor (something like the Swivi) make more sense than a loupe? I've read in the forums that the GH3 screen automatically changes brightness and that there is no way to disable this function. What good is a perfectly sharp picture if it isn't exposed correctly? An external monitor would have consistent brightness and could easliy be changed according to the lighting conditions. I've also read that the shoe mount has come loose on some cameras, so a monitor that attaches to the tripod screw might be preferable. Anyone experience problems with the screen brightness fluctuating while using one of these loupes?

Hi Jon, thanks for your response. I checked out the Varavon, it definitely looks like a good solution, for focusing anyhow, and I like that it can be rotated for easy viewing... Maybe you're right - I'd much rather spend my money on glass than a cumbersome device, no matter how well made. It seems almost insane for a hobbyist to pay $800 (for a Zacuto Flip EVF) to compensate for what Panasonic should have already included in the GH3 (zebras and peaking) - that's 2/3 the price of another body, and nearly enough to get what I think may well be my next purchase - one of the Nokton f/0.95 lenses...

I'm going through the agonies of purchasing a Panny GH3. Reason being, the lack of focus peaking while shooting video and no zebra stripes. Initially, I was going to just pick up the camera, along with a Lumix 12-35mm f/2.8 for around $2,500, but since reading in these pages how good the Zacuto Flip EVF is, I'm wondering: should I get the Zacuto and the Panasonic 20mm f/1.7 pancake lens instead? You see, I'm limited to around $2,500 and it's going to be a long while before I can purchase anything else... I'm really confused at the moment! I've been using a Panasonic TM900 for the past year, but I really like the image quality I see coming from these SLRs and MFT cameras. I plan on doing narrative work and documentaries.