jonpais

I've been shooting at -5 contrast, -3 sharpening and -2 saturation. I haven't touched NR yet since I don't have decided whether or not to purchase something like neat video. I think the image coming out of the camera is much more contrasty than the GH3. As for sharpening, I think you should just do some tests and see if edge enhancement is bothering you. The camera suffers from moire, but from my experience with the GH3, lessening sharpness seems to have little effect, so I haven't experimented with that. Since getting a set of ND filters and using a shoulder rig, I'm finding I'm using the GM1 less and less. An articulated screen would at least mitigate some of the problems with shooting in bright light. Also, the 35-100mm zoom is fast becoming my lens of choice and it's nearly impossible to hold steady without some sort of rig, which would defeat the whole purpose of the GM1. I have found that using a rig completely eliminates the micro jitters associated with the 35-100mm lens when used with the GH3.

@ Bioskop.Inc Thanks!

I also just had a second look at the CC tutorial. Now I realize I'd been going about color correction the wrong way, by using just the global slider rather than starting with the highlights. Sometimes that's the only correction you'll need. I guess you often don't have to even touch the shadows, unless the blacks have a strong color cast. And I'd also been judging by eye rather than using the color parade scope. So right there, my videos should look better from here on out. In addition, I started really playing around with the looks included in FCPX for the first time and had a ball for a couple hours applying them to various clips. Finally, I downloaded Denver Riddle's free presets (I believe there are three of them). Watching the tutorial also confirmed what I already thought: that it's best to do a good color correction before applying your look in the second correction. I think I'm going to have a lot of fun editing this weekend! https://copy.com/j27nZhXTCheP

+1

Very beautiful, especially the reddish one at the bottom of the page. And I love the idea of the hinged bottom for changing battery and SD card! But the best part is the tripod thread, which actually is functional. The Panasonic case I have is virtually unusable with a tripod (but it still looks nice and gives something more to grip). And it was free, so I'm not complaining...^^

@zenpmd I just use mine for catching street life here, so I don't use a rig or anything. But because it is so difficult to handhold, especially with long lenses, I thought I'd try attaching it to a shoulder rig one day. Of course, the lens was too big, so I attached the rig to the leather case (the case gives it some room). Bad idea - the camera would swivel around, and it took me hours to figure out how to remove the case from the rig... Also, the GM1 definitely does seem to have more contrast than the GH3; I always leave contrast set at -5. There is only one physical function button on the camera: I use mine to set the ISO. I don't shoot stills, but if you try shooting flash with anything larger than the kit lens, it will cast a shadow from the lens barrel if you don't tilt the flash. If you plan to shoot extensively, it wouldn't hurt to pick up a few extra batteries. They don't last very long. And I second fuzznormal's ND suggestion, though I only use one filter at a time...

I've read over and over again that to achieve a film look it would behoove me (it's been ages since I've been able to use that word!) to shoot with manual lenses. Up until now, I've been using two X Vario zooms with the GH3 (as well as the GM1) for capturing street life here in Saigon. I have been procrastinating because I'm so worried that all my pictures will be a blurry mess and jittery without any OIS. It would appear that inexpensive lenses like a used Nikon f/1.4 or some other manufacturer can be exploited with great success. So I guess my question is this: is there any advantage to using a full-frame lens and adapter vs. something like a Voigtlander micro four thirds lens? How do you keep constantly moving subjects in focus? And what about stabilization? Do you think just a shoulder rig would suffice?

Make sure you keep us informed how it works out for you!

Here's a small clip made with the GM1 on a recent trip to the Mekong delta.

Michael Reichmann, writing about the GM1 for his website, has just penned the very first negative review I've seen of the camera. His main gripes: the control wheel, which he says is the worst design ever, and the lack of an EVF. I have to agree with him about trying to shoot without at least an articulating LCD: it's all but impossible to hold the camera steady, especially with long lenses. But I must ever so politely disagree with him about the control wheel - in fact, I find that when changing shutter speed, aperture and white balance, the ergonomics are way easier than with the GH3. It's true though that it is possible to change the point of focus by inadvertently touching the screen, something I did quite often when first using the camera, but which doesn't happen much anymore. So there you are: get the G6! :)

If I've confused you even more, I've succeeded! :) I only shoot 24p 50Mbps with GH3, so I don't know about 75Mbps. Most people say the higher bit rate option is muddy looking. I don't do color grading or fast moving objects (that is, things faster than a person walking), so I don't think there's a big difference... I posted a link to a Franc Perec video - he still uses the GH1 and GH2 a lot, and he even posted a video from the unhacked GH1 and he was happy with the results and he knows a heck of a lot more than I do, so there you are. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but those high bit rates really only come in handy if you're shooting action or doing extensive color correction.

This link should be live within the next 24 hours. You should see 10 short clips, all but one shot at the home of a friend of mine in Tien Giang province in the Mekong delta and one shot during a tour of the Mekong. The young girl is my friend's daughter. Camera: Lumix GM1, Vario 12-35mm f/2.8 lens. Settings: Standard, 24p, contrast -5, sharpness -3, saturation -2 and NR 0. Several of the interiors were shot at ISO 800.

I can't comment on stills, since I only shoot video. In my case, I got the GM1 as a sort of B camera for the GH3, but I ended up shooting almost exclusively with the GM1. For one thing, the LCD screen is WAY sharper than on the GH3. The sensor is awesome - the color and clarity I get with the Vario 12-35mm f/2.8 lens is nothing short of amazing. As I said before though, it is next to impossible for me to shoot steady with long lenses - I shake a lot for one thing; the ergonomics (without some sort of grip anyway) are not great for telephoto work (there is an extensive write-up over at the Imaging Resource, however, where they look at using long focal lengths to shoot stills); and the stabilization in the Panny 35-100 isn't the very best... It also sounds to me like you have certain goals, but never forget that although you think you might not need a feature like slo-mo today, that could change in the future. I love my GM1 to death, but the G6 might be better suited for your needs... I'll be totally honest and say that I prefer cameras with a metal frame to all plastic, but there seems to be no question that the G6 is rugged enough for everyday use. As has been said, you will probably want your main camera to have an EVF. I say all this even though the GM1 is one of the most fun cameras I've owned. Oh, and even though I shoot 24p 50Mbps with the GH3, I think the GM1's AVCHD files are every bit as good for what I do. In fact, there are many photographers still using the GH1 and GH2 who swear by them. I recently watched a

Here is one that came out a while back (shot in overcast light) and another shot outdoors in bright light with some camera movement. I was surprised at the absence of shimmering in the grilles of the cars My own experience has been that the camera produces an incredible amount of detail and nice color, but yes, you have to be careful around patterned objects

?

Yes, I should have added that if you want 60fps, you're better off with the G6.

Hi malkovich00, There are plenty of discussions and reviews of both cameras both here and in other forums. Without knowing exactly how you intend to use your camera, it's difficult to give an answer. Are you planning to shoot lots of sound? Do you need slow motion? Are you planning to use long focal lengths? If so, you might be better off with the G6, from what I've read. Also, if ergonomics is a priority, the GM1 is probably out of the picture. On the other hand, I own both the GM1 and the GH3, and I can't stop shooting with the GM1: I love the camera. I think if you want to fly your camera someday, the smaller one might also be a better choice. In the end, I'm sure you can't go wrong with either camera. Is there a shop nearby you can go to and handle the two?

Are you telling me you get less moire and aliasing with the Photo Style settings all at zero? Incredible!

:) That seems to be the general consensus: using vintage lenses...

After seeing some videos shot with the GH1 by Franc Perec over at Vimeo, I was curious to read some reviews of the camera. I found a comprehensive and enlightening review over at the Luminous Landscape (written some five years ago), where Michael Reichmann had this to say: "And what are Canon, Nikon et all doing in the meantime? Hard to say, but if they are not scrambling to produce something competitive they're going to find RED capturing a big chunk of the high-end of the prosumer stills and video market. Another warmed over 5 series camera from Canon just isn't going to be competitive. Because Nikon doesn't have an existing video camera business to protect from the ravages of convergence you'd think that they would be in the forefront. But, given what we've seen so far Nikon seems to simply be playing a holding action rather than innovating when it comes to video. At least not yet. Which brings us back to Panasonic. First, an anecdote. Back about 30 years ago I was National Sales Manager for the Video Division of Panasonic in Canada. (This was industrial and broadcast; there was no consumer video at the time). I was then always frustrated by the fact that Sony and JVC would have cooler gear and have it first, bringing new features and innovations to market sooner than Panasonic. After several years with Panasonic, and on a visit to headquarters in Japan one time, I voiced this concern to a senior executive and asked why this had to always be the case. He smiled wryly and responded that as the world's largest electronics company Matsushita felt no need to be first and coolest, but would emulate the turtle, not the hare. Slow but sure wins the race. He also said that the company chooses its battles carefully, but when they target a particular market they play to win." The thing is, in just slightly over a year since the introduction of the GH3, Panasonic have done the unheard-of: they have not just added incremental functionality and cosmetic changes to their flagship camera - an already popular model among video enthusiasts - but a host of features we've been eager to see implemented.

In a video I posted in the GH3 Best Video Settings thread over at POV (apologies, Andrew!), the first couple shots were actually taken with the GM1. In-camera sharpening was set higher than it should have been, and I had to add blur in post. Even so, you can see what appears to be ugly aliasing in the woman's hair at the very beginning of the clip. As far as suggestions, I was led to believe that turning in-camera sharpening way down lessens moire and aliasing, but when I tried doing that with my GH3, I didn't see any better results, so I wouldn't expect it to have any affect on the GM1 either. And because my hands aren't steady, it makes the problem even worse, especially with things like patterns in clothing, which I can see shimmering with every movement of the camera.

Thanks. An excellent read.

Any chance you can share a sample shot at that ISO with those settings?

As I already owned the GH3, one of my justifications for purchasing the GM1 was to be able to fly it with the Mastor Tech SF1 Gimbal, a cheaper alternative to say, the $2,600 Defy G2 with the GH3. But I just learned that there have been some changes: it looks like Stephen Tsang has started a new company and is Kickstarting gimbals under the Gazer name. The products look similar, but the prices are now higher, and the Gazer SP1 looks like it's built of cheap plastic. I was ready to go ahead and bite the bullet and write a check to Defy, but I think these gimbals still take a lot of practice and skill to get steady shots, and I'm afraid I'll be sorely disappointed. Any ideas about other small affordable 2-axis gimbals to fly the GM1?

Seb's a talented guy; the video held my interest throughout. I feel he really highlighted the strengths of SLR Magic's new lens and I was surprised he didn't do any grading at all (at least, I believe that's what I read), since he achieved so many different looks with the two cameras, from very monochromatic to richly colored shots. I especially enjoyed some of the close-ups. I did feel however that some of the shots might have benefited from less in-camera sharpening, though. I recently posted a link to some clips I made with the GH3 of head shots to show that the camera was certainly capable of creating a film look with nice skin tones (some still dispute that), but now that top-tier cameras have already proven that digital is not something to be despised, I wonder how long it will be before we can dispense with a slavish adherence to a certain esthetic. There are times when I can enjoy a movie shot digitally where it doesn't pretend to resemble celluloid at all.