squig

What does it cost to mod? I've got 2 Iscoramas but they're a pain to use, and 35mm is the most width you can get out of them.

I'd shoot with a D90 if I had to.

"The GH5 needed like 12 nodes" Call me practical, but I'd rather jump in front of a bus.

I won't be giving up the magic anytime soon.

Nice work on the color matching, really hard to tell them apart. I played around with some of the DNGs and TIFFs; I can stretch the DNGs a lot more and get more latitude from them. Compressed DNG output is now a thing: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=15108.new#new

Bottom one is the 5D.

Thanks. Only 150,000 frames to go

I haven't tested the high frame rates in the experimental builds. This is some 48p stuff I shot with a nightly build.

The resolution change is automatic in ML.

Regular build can do lower res.

Yeah.

2.7-2.8k 2.39:1 has been pretty solid with most builds. I'm getting 3k continuous (12bit lossless) with the latest build.

If you guys wanna use Arri LUTS check out http://www.cinelogdcp.com/cinelogc-overview

Physical buttons work. I have NFI what gradual exposure is, I drive stick. I haven't really noticed any improvement, or a noise hit. I keep it on its lowest setting because I want to believe.

Can't see it happening anytime soon; looks like a1ex is focused on the Mk3 for now. But he mentioned recently that he was putting a few hours a week into digic 6 development.

I've got 4 Canon batteries and a dummy Canon battery to Sony NP-F plate.

I'm personally not a big fan of modern zooms, I like the character of old Leica primes, but a Canon 24-70 will cover most scenarios with a 5D. You might want to look at the Sigmas too, the primes in particular are very good. The Canon lens that I do like is the 40mm pancake, not great for manual focusing, but it does have some character.

Lulz. I did warn everyone. I loved the size and the e mount, that was about it.

Few tips I gave to mercer: Use the raw histogram and the ETTR hint. I have my LCD brightness 1 notch from the minimum setting which gives a good exposure preview for ETTR shooting. You can use shutter fine tuning to get a 180 degree shutter. Set FPS to exact. If you're using an external monitor you may have to switch the camera on before you turn on the monitor. Always expose to the right, highlight recovery is more forgiving than the Blackmagics. Don't pull the CF card until the light flashes, otherwise your battery will drain. exFAT format your cards. You can go with either 1.1.3 or 1.2.3 Canon firmware, difference being 1.1.3 gives a slightly higher max bitrate, while 1.2.3 allows for dual monitoring (HDMI and LCD). Gimme a yell if ya get stuck with anything. Oh and After Effects is the way to go for max quality debayering, but Resolve isn't bad (hearing that it may be better in 14, but haven't tested it yet). If you go with AE use CS6 or CC 2014 for multiproccessor rendering. AE renders are way slower than Resolve. You can use the same Resolve workflow as you would with the Blackmagics provided you use MLVFS.

My BMMCC's been sitting in my bag since I got it; the 5D color is better, and despite the quoted figures, the 5D has more usable dynamic range. The 3K live view isn't there yet, only a few fps, but usable for establishing shots. HDMI out isn't working with 3K yet either. I'm quite happy with the 1080p raw resolution for everything but establishing shots, but I do like the 2x crop @ 3K, means I can shoot @ f/2.8 instead of f/5.6 and lower the ISO. MLVFS makes editing raw files in Premiere and Resolve possible with no transcoding.

I've been paying a CC subscription for 3 years, but I'm still using CS6 because Adobe killed AE multiprocessing support in CC 2015. What a fucking joke.

It's OK on the SD card as long as you're not using it to record video. I think those ML instructions date back to the pre-exfat days. I don't regularly reformat my cards, I just offload the files and reuse the cards.

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=19300.msg183231#msg183231

dual ISO introduces some nasty aliasing in video mode, way too much for my liking. Good for photo mode.

You format exfat in the computer first, that wipes ALL the data on the card. Then copy the ML files to the card. Then run firmware update from the Canon menu to make the card bootable. NEVER FORMAT YOUR ML CARD IN CAMERA, IT WILL BE FORMATTED FAT32. Movie> Image fine-tuning> shutter fine-tuning +0.89ms = 1/48 shutter Make sure live view is set correctly: Movie> Raw video> Preview options> Canon Turn off [beep] in the Canon menu and the ML menu (NFI if this helps, but it can't hurt) Only load the modules you need, and only turn on the global draw functions you need.