Inazuma

Do you use a slider or are you just scaling in post?

Impressive piece btw :)

Just thought I'd drop my 2cents.. I owned a Nikon d5200 last year for about 6 months before replacing it with a gx7. In April I tested the a6000 against my gx7 and found the a6000 to have no advantages. I became so confident about the Panasonic system that after 7 months of using the gx7 I upgraded to a gh3 (for the higher bitrates, better grip and more spaced out controls). I can't speak for the g6 but I doubt the image quality is much different to the gh3/gx7.

Edit:

Just to expand on a few things...

I had a very hard time leaving my Nikon because the photo quality was just so damn good. The video quality was good too but I always felt it lacked a little something. But there were other problems, like the small viewfinder made it hard to manually focus for stills, especially at night. Changing WB for video was cumbersome. And the lack of dual control dials was a hindrance too.But mainly, there was no cheap and small 35mm focal length equivalent lens (a personal preference).

The a6000 felt nice in the hand and had a great electronic viewfinder. However, like previous NEX's it showed a lot of noise in low light, making it very difficult to manually focus. I did a little stills test and the latitude and noise levels between it and my gx7 were very similar, with the GX7 gaining a lead at high ISO's. The video quality was no less disappointing, with the Sony showing more moire/aliasing, less detail and less dynamic range.

I really don't think colour science is a worthy cause to want/not want any camera. I mean people shoot flat with almost no colour or contrast all the time and then put a grade over it. You can get what ever colours you want. More cameras (including the Alphas) are popping up with WB Tint control now too.

Out of curiosity, what camera body are/were you using it on and can you be more specific about the speed of autofocus? I have been wondering since the a6000 has good phase detection and Canon lenses use phase detection.. whether the focus speed might actually be almost DSLR fast.

How much better is the d5300 in low light than the g6, Matt? Have you done any tests? (video and photo)

This cant be right at all

All I know is that there's usually 20% VAT + £10 admin fee. Seller was "kwm55". I would not get complacent though; always be prepared for the duty hit :)

I was prepared to pay the £50+ import tax but luckily the seller marked the value down and I paid nothing :)

I would go with the lens turbo but i need aperture control for my Sigma 18-35 and possibly a future Tokina 11-16

Thought Ã'd give an update :)

I bought the Tokina 28-70mm f2.6-2.8 AT-X Pro. Just waiting for it to arrive from Ireland now.

The Camdiox focal reducer/lens turbo I bought (which I believe is the same as the "RJ" one) I'm starting to feel disappointed about. I'd say it's noticeably soft around 10% around the edge of the whole frame. And there is some play in the mount to the camera body (it shifts in angle a bit).

I returned the Tokina 80-200mm f2.8 and received the Pro version yesterday from Japan. It is in near pristine condition and yet was the cheapest on ebay. The build of this lens is just ridiculous. I've never held a lens that felt so good. Unfortunately, at f2.8 the optics seem a little worse than the non-Pro version. There is noticeable softness and fringing. But I can live with it and maybe if I buy the Metabones speedbooster, it'll perform better.

Just absolutely beautiful footage. I don't mind a bit of noise; it makes the image feel more "real".  But in the second video there is quite a lot of it. Why was this?

So after making a purchase of the PRO 80-200mm yesterday, I saw all the talk here about the 28-70mm f2.6-2.8 And by chance there was a listing on ebay that was ending in a few hours. I impulsively put in a bid and just ended up winning it for 202 euros. :o  Really poor on my part because it's outside of my budget  Really not sure if I should go ahead with the sale. On the one hand, it completes my zoom range (18-35, 80-200 and now 28-70) and its a sweet lens. On the other hand, I don't actually feel like I need this range and it's outside my budget. What to do... decisions decisions.. Andy, any chance you could check those pictures to see if it's even the right one? I heard there's a Pro I and Pro II. Not sure which one is better either..

What is the difference between the Tokina 28-70mm f2.8 and the f2.6-2.8 ?

Andy, I may have the opportunity to pick up some Nikkor manual lenses.

Haven't seen them yet so don't know exact names of them

Looking at these for m43 video

 

Nikkor 24mm f2.8

Nikkor 35mm f1.2

Nikkor 50mm f1.4

 

Is there a speed booster that can be used with these manual Nikkor lenses?

Also, if these are in good condition, how much would they be worth?

 

Glad to have someone so knowledgeable to ask questions about older lenses.

Yes, my £72 Camdiox speed booster works with manual lenses. You use the aperture control on the lens rather than the adapter. Im sure the other speed boosters work the same way.

I have footage shot in 50p that I'm delivering in 25p. I can conform the footage so that I get 50% slow mo, but what If I want to go ever slower using Twixtor? So I gave it a quick test; put my 50p footage in a 25p timeline, playing in normal speed. Then add Twixtor with 50% slowdown. What I found was that Twixtor doesn't use the extra frames from the original clip, but interpolates like it would do with any 25p footage. This means that getting 25% slomo using Twixtor would be no different whether my original footage was 25p or 50p. Is there a way to change this behaviour?

You can download the original video by clicking the Download button below the player. You can clearly see the fine noise.

I really very much doubt the aliasing is from shooting 1080p. I have been shooting with the gh3 and gx7 and never seen such bad aliasing.

It shouldn't rattle. Even my cheap knockoff doesn't rattle. You are an unlucky person :p

I'm thinking the aliasing was due to the editing programming interpreting the footage as interlaced instead of progressive. The noise is very fine so it was probably shot in 4k and i don't think any noise reduction was used.


I want to say he used very fast glass but you never see anything out of focus. And if it was any brighter outside I would think the windows would blow out way more.

So yeh... Mystery.

I bet you if other cameras under $2000 had as good a sensor readout as the Panasonic's, you would see noise at low ISOs too

Hi,

Does anyone have any experience with these? I'm in the market for something cheap but that still wont shake about when I pull focus.

Also can anyone confirm whether the plate is compatible with a Manfrotto 577 / Giottos 621?

Are you willing to put up with flicker on electric lights?

Hi Inazuma, can you give us your impressions of the Camdiox product please? It's good to know we now have some home grown reducers in the UK but it would be good to know the quality of it, could you upload any images taken through it, or can you compare it with a Metabones (which seems to be the "standard") Thanks :)

I posted a report here: >

Hope it helps :)

I was skeptical when Christina suggested Super 8 for weddings, but now im convinced its a bad choice. There is nothing special about Joel Sarrato's work. He does the same boring shots of wedding shoes that everyone else does and his sense of framing in general is poor. Add to that the look of Super 8 (including zooming in and out of shots) and it literally just looks like a home movie. May as well have asked a friend to do it.

Super 8 should be left to experimental films.

The edges were just out of focus, surely?

I should have done more research I guess :D However for my needs, this lens is more than good enough and I dont tend to get along with follow focus' anyway.