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Shield3

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Everything posted by Shield3

  1. 2nd image. Indoors on auto white balance, everything pretty much manually set for exposure, but auto WB and ISO: Again straight out of the camera (I was picking my kids up and just threw the 35/2 IS on for some quick fun): I would also like to point out this was all handheld and shot wide open with crappy elementary school indoor lighting. EXIF reads: File Name : 0V1A9539.MOV F Number : 2.0 Shutter Speed : 1/60 ISO : 183 White Balance : Auto Color Temperature : 5200 Light Value : 7.0 Measured EV : 7.25 Lens : 35.0 mm Lens ID : Canon EF 35mm f/2 IS USM Same "reel" as shot two. Oh yeah I always make sure high ISO noise reduction, auto lighting optimizer and all that crap is turned off. Again this is portrait skin tones. If you want a real sharpness comparison, I can shoot something tomorrow stopped down to F/8 or so. I still have my 5d3 and if I get a chance I can do a direct side by side screenshot with the exact same glass. My daughter Christine... Last one for tonight. My son Nicholas. I love the skin tones from this thing. Tomorrow I will shoot my fence in the backyard with the 5dsr and 5d3 with the same settings / lenses. If I get time. Again all F/2, crappy light, 100% untouched.
  2. Oh I have more experience shooting stills. I just meant with this particular body - I have been getting very sharp shots with the 16-35 F/4 IS @ F/4 at 1/80 or faster shutter handheld, and even the 35/2 IS wide open looks pretty damn impressive. I'm sorry you typed all of that and it's great advice if I were shooting landscapes. Believe it or not, you can shoot shallow DOF cream puff shots with this body just like a 5d3. You just have to think a tad more before you snap and watch your shutter (1/60th is just too slow). I even shot my kids moving around and it did just fine. This shutter is dampened, along with EFCS it's just fine. It's a far cry from the original A7r that I used. Now then, I'd take most of your above advice to heart. Let me grab some video clips. I don't shoot neutral; I shoot portrait dialed down for the skin tones. Everything you see will be Portrait -2 sharp, -2 contrast -1 saturation, ungraded 100%. First shot: Dusk. Keep in mind this is 100% untouched straight out of the camera (0 editing - screen save from Media Player Classic Home Cinema 1.78 EXIF for the mov states: File Name : 0V1A9551.MOV F Number : 2.0 Shutter Speed : 1/50 ISO : 5382 White Balance : Auto Color Temperature : 5200 Light Value : 1.9 Measured EV : 1.63 Lens : 35.0 mm Lens ID : Canon EF 35mm f/2 IS USM Focal Length : 35.0 mm (35 mm equivalent: 34.2 mm) Camera Temperature : 42 C Metering Mode : Multi-segment Exposure Program : Manual Shooting Mode : Manual Exposure Compensation : 0 Video Frame Rate : 23.976 Avg Bitrate : 31.8 Mbps Image Size : 1920x1080
  3. The 5dsr 1080p/24 footage looks noticeably better than 5d3 non-raw footage IMO. Nice and detailed; clean. Shot some last night and the good 'old Canon colors are there. The AF in video mode works better than I thought it would. Not quite to the level of the 70d's dual pixel AF, but much better than not having it. Very impressed with the still image quality of the 5dsr so far. I've tried it with the Sigma 50 1.4 art, the 35 F/2 IS, the 70-200 II and the 16-35 F/4 IS. All look great. ...which annoys me why Canon didn't include 1080p60 on this camera.
  4. If I were a betting man, would I be correct to assume you're a NX-1 owner?
  5. I need to figure out the best method for 50.6 MP stills first, which was the point of the purchase. Video may only be shot out of convenience.
  6. My 5dsr will be here tomorrow - I am going to test this as well. Hopefully I'll have the same results; I will be using the Sigma 50 art stopped way down (F/5.6 - F/8)
  7. I have as well. Last year I upgraded our 3 main sets to 4k (well, UHD) and playing back downscaled 4k I see no real difference between that and 1080p. At least not on a 60" set. I remind myself that the TVs all do some 4k sort of 4k upscaling. People also forget that really good 1080p *can* be cropped, panned, etc. in post as well. Yes you lose a bit of resolution but if you have really good 1080p it shouldn't matter. I have 720 blurays that look stunning on a 4k TV. I sure as hell don't miss the file size / conversion / reduced FPS headache that went along with shooting 4k.
  8. I sold my 1dc about a month ago. I haven't really missed it. IMO it still doesn't look as good as the 5d3 raw @ 1080p, even downscaling the 4k. It's a camera that will never AF in video mode, always be a very large DSLR, will never shoot high frame rates, and the 1080p60 is pretty soft. So is the 1080. You basically buy that camera for the skin tones and 4k @ 24p / s35 mode. Since it's the 1d class ML will never support it either. The C-log does not allow single "push" AF or any sort of auto-ISO - so it's really only good for controlled / non-light changing scenes. Still, it's a stills beast and shoots very pretty 4k footage.
  9. Right, but he said "24p AND 120p" - the key being those two words - "and 120p". I know Andrew isn't a fan of the NX1's 1080p120, but I find it pretty nice.
  10. After watching a car show yesterday (Fantomworks) I think I've finally figured out the purpose (and the author) of this website. Andrew is like a horsepower nut for car guys. He'll do all the things to squeeze out every ounce of HP (IQ/dynamic range) at the sake of usability (log shooting/exposure and grading). He's like the guy who rips out the air conditioning in your car just to add 10 HP, no matter how nice and convenient it is to have (ND filters, normal profile shooting,, etc). And always chasing that new engine. What do I win?
  11. "the quality of the full frame internal 1080/24p and 120fps, it really is very poor, reminiscent of the internal 1080p of the Samsung NX1 rather than the GH4." Uhm, have you seen the 96FPS from the GH4? The NX-1 @ 1080p120 crushes that IQ-wise. Not sure what you mean here.
  12. Not that simple. On a 5d3 I can get 1000 shots; perhaps 300 on the a7x bodies. This is because I use a viewfinder/OVF when shooting stills. Pretty sure the 5d3 will go much longer than 1.5 hours shooting video as well. Where did you get these numbers?
  13. The average person Greg wouldn't think twice about the Sony skin tones - only when you put it right next to Canon do they look noticeably worse.
  14. Clearly the Canon looked better and had far superior skin tones and was the champ for AF. Good lord if my wife came home and saw me watch that video of a guy filming himself in side-by-side mode she'd really start to wonder about me. On a side note - I'd rather have 5x the camera angles with 5 A7sII's than a single C300 - would be much more interesting viewing no matter how you pan and punch in the 4k image. Wait, I have to buy glass and 1000 batteries for those other 4 bodies? Hmmm...
  15. "If you just want an easy life on the other hand, shoot Blackmagic raw, Canon 5D raw with Magic Lantern, Digital Bolex raw or Canon LOG on the 1D C, but be prepared for big file sizes!" Not sure I agree there. At least on the 1dc's part. In C-log mode, you'd better hope you're not moving the camera in any scene where the light / exposure alternates whatsoever, as the ISO is fixed. There is no way for the camera to adjust exposure up or down in Log mode. Hell you cannot even do a "push" AF before a shot; it's 100% manual focus. I am no colorist but didn't find the C-log that easy to grade either, at least to a level I liked. As far as pure IQ 1080p I'd put the 5d3 raw perhaps a notch above the 1dc's 4k downscaled, both both images certainly have better skin tones than my FS700. When I say better I mean "more pleasing" to my eye - I would argue the Sony is more accurate technically - who the hell wants that?
  16. I love this type of post, and the Internet / camera forums in general. We go from arguing over how great a camera is going to be, to unboxing videos and camera lust / jealousy, to the inevitable honeymoon is over phase so quickly. So in lieu of shooting something reliable and proven, we put loupes on our Sony bodies, worry about overheating, worry if the Metabones adapter is going to not work, drag around ND filters and step up rings, external mics, remember to overexpose 2 stops in log mode so we can squeeze 1/5 of a stop of extra dynamic range just to spend hours later grading footage of our....cats. All while trying to avoid banding skies, black hole suns (Soundgarden anyone?) and instead of actually ENJOYING shooting a nice crisp 1080p signal (like my FS700) and worrying more about content - before we hit record we're trying to remember what our "knee" setting was for test shot #1047. Hey, I'm one of you too. Having gotten a proper ND filter / good built-in audio / slow motion FS700 the past few days I've just been shooting everything. Mostly not even slowmo stuff - and (oh the horror) not $5000 adapted Cooke glass - I even tried the 18-55 Sony kit lens - which smoothly autofocuses and face tracks my subjects. I locked the iris, set the ISO gain limit and just hit record. Looking now for cool low angled shots, framing, keeping my subjects (my family) the focus and not the settings. More "keeper" footage in 3 days non stop shooting than 4 months with the 1dc. But, I am one of you - always on the quest for the best. But at some point we are going to have to remember there is *no* perfect camera, nor will there ever be. DSLR's will probably never have true built-in ND, XLR inputs (save the GH4 and the clunky poorly-powered YAGH), smooth AF in video mode and colors right out of the camera (and dynamic range) that we all like. Camcorders will never be small, take exception stills, nor have the stealth factor. I walked around Halloween with the FS and at least 3 people asked me if I was with the news. At the baseball games with the 1d + 300 2.8 they asked if I was with Sports Illustrated. Sigh. /ramble off.
  17. I'll find out soon enough. I have the regular EF Metabones adapter as well.
  18. Bah. It looks really good to me. My Sigma 18-35 1.8 will be here in a couple days - can't wait to use that with the speedbooster. I cannot stop shooting either 1FPS timelapse type stuff or 240FPS. I bought the little $100 18-55 IS and the AF in video mode is way better than I though with face detection. Great little camcorder, this FS700.
  19. You wouldn't use it without the recorder? Have you become a 4k snob? I wouldn't use it probably without the speedbooster, but I find the image lovely coming straight off the camera (well, some light grading). It looks better than the 1dc did in FF mode. I realize I'm on the wrong forum if I'm thrilled about getting a camera from 2-3 years ago, but I love this FS700. I don't need to use my LCDVFE anymore, the audio is much better, I'm saving HD space and workflow time. My wife's entire family was here yesterday - total of 7 kids - went out and shot and was able to just throw the SD card into the USB on the TV and watch it back right away - same for the Halloween footage last night. Yes I'd love to have the 7q but it'd never work out for handheld run and gun stuff. I will probably pick up an A7s2 once the price drops a bit, but of course I'll have to remember to bring my external mic and ND filer set (with step up adatpers). I don't know guys - this change makes me excited about shooting again, which is all that matters to me.
  20. Just got back from Halloween footage; FS700 + 24-70 F/4. At ISO 8000 I see very little difference between the low light with the FS700 + Speedbooster and the bare A7s I shot last year. I showed my wife the footage and she didn't know which was which. Now above that the A7s obviously gets pretty ridiculous. I'll attach a 1080p screen capture from both (ungraded). One of these is a screen capture from the a7s + speedbooster; the other is the a7s + Canon EF 24-70 with regular Metabones. Both are straight out of the camera 100% ungraded, 1080 captures (not through Photoshop).
  21. Thanks Andrew. I rented the FS700 about a year ago for 3 days - some of my favorite footage I ever took was with that camera. Do I wish it had the magic color sauce the Canons do? Sure. But I can push it around in post and get it pretty close. On nice thing - I upgrade all our TV's to Vizio 4k this year (well, UHD) and I can go shoot the kids being nuts and watch it back instantly with 1080p slow-mo material. With the 1dc we had to wait (same with the NX1 I still have). So, there's that. I had the a7s for about 8 months - loved it, but the Metabones did not play well in video mode with one my lenses (Sigma C 150-600) - it would only record for seconds then shut off. I can't have shutoffs, overheating, errors - that drives me nuts. I need to do long takes too - baseball games, plays, choir, some interviews and music / bands. This rules out the a7r 2, the 5d3 raw (which I loved) and probably a few other cameras. Now I can set my gear up and record things and go back to my seat and just watch and enjoy myself.
  22. FS5 according to B&H: Expected availability: December 04 2015 I can't record anything with the FS5 today can I?
  23. I thought about the A7s2, but by the time I bought a speedbooster + regular Metabones adapter I'd have had over $1k more in it without any spare batteries. I get a more stabilized shot with the larger FS700 body, built in ND, XLR audio, and I prefer near FF sized 240FPS over 120FPS @ 2.2x crop. I can let the FS700 roll along untouched for hours filming my kids' sports and indoor performances - I can't do that with the A7s (may overheat, definite 29 min record limit). But you're a filmmaker - I am a hobbyist. The price was right for this deal so I did it. Had I picked up the A7s2 it'll take a major hit in the next year when the a7s mark 3 is released. Look at the a7s - I can pick one up for $1500 - $1000 off retail already. So there's pro's and cons to each. I'd love the ultra low light of the a7s2, but it's not like the FS700 is bad in low light...:) Sure like having a built-in handle, loupe for the EVF, ND, XLR, and extended battery and record time. But yes selling the 1dc was very difficult due to the IQ.
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