Tito Ferradans

Hey Folks!
My 1.5x baby moller is for sale. It is the focus through version (you only focus your taking lens!), and has a custom built housing and comes with a 0.5 diopter. Some specs:
Rear thread: 55mm
Front thread: 67mm
Mininmal focus distance without diopter: 2m
Minimal focus distance with diopter: from 0,9m to 2.2m
Without vignette from: 28mm (MFT), 50mm (APSC), it works on fullframe as well, but I did not test the min. focal length
Condition: SUPERB!
Shipping from: European Union
Please check out the attached pictures. I also grabbed some snapshots from my latest video (my focus pulling was not the best...). It was shot with the Lumix GH4, Cinelike D profile + Rec 709 LUT in the post, Mitakon lens turbo, Pentax 50mm & Canon 85mm f1.8 mostly set to F4.0 + the moller & UV filter.
In my opinion it is an awesome lens which gives you 2.66:1 as a final result. As you can see it is pretty sharp, some say it's sharp from F1.4, but i found it soft for my taste, and it is also hard to pull focus when wide open. It is a run & gun lens, small, handy and lightweight.
I'm willing to ship the lens worldwide but please note that you are responsible for customs, taxes and other charges.
The price is not set yet, if you are interested, please contact me with your offer! Thank you!

ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - PROPER ASPECT RATIO
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=8249
ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - CROPPING IN POST
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=8793
ANAMORPHIC CHOP SHOP - FIXING MUMPS
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=8832
ANAMORPHIC ON A BUDGET - UPCOMING, 2016
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=8746
ANAMORPHIC ON A BUDGET - THE NEW ROMANTICS
http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=8923

I want to take a moment to thank everyone who contributed to this thread.  Tito, Gabriel, Nahua, and particularly Rich, for your support and the invaluable information you shared that allowed me to get from 'novice anamorphhc modder' to 'slightly-less-novice anamorphic modder.'  Seriously, without your insights I never would have finished this mod.

I now have three working B&H lens mods.  Two have the 14mm helicoids, allowing focus to approx 36 inches, and the 30mm helicoid which provides an amazing 8-inch focus distance.  The downside on the 30mm helicoid is that:
It still requires several barrel rotations to rack focus from 8 inches out to infinity Focus breathing is noticeable particularly at close distances. Not a bad trade-off, to be able to so close with the camera.  I'm going to keep one of the 14mm's as well as the 30mm.  I've ordered parts to create a second lens bracket, and will bundle that with the remaining 14mm helicoid modded lens for sale on eBay, to recoup some of my costs.  As mentioned, I'm thinking of making the helicoid mod & lens bracket available as a kit if enough B&H owners are interested.  So let me know if you are.
Now I'm ready to start taking my rig out to do some serious test footage.  I'm especially interested in trying my Mamiya Sekor 50mm f1.4 and my Angenieux 12-120mm to see results of night shooting and zooming, respectively.
Once again, a thousand thank-yous to everyone in this thread for your help.  You've allowed me to realize my goal of shooting in widescreen, an ambition I've had every since I bought my first 8mm movie camera so many years ago.  I hope the info in this thread has helped other B&H owners take advantage of this lens.
Cheers,
|. . | .|

An image is worth more than 1000 tutorials. I'm still in progress. Last night we spent about 4 hours playing with wires and stuff, and then. Today I kept going for more two hours and voilá! I still need to polish the edges, but it's MUCH better than my first attempt through brute force.

Every step has been properly documented and I'll still repeat the process for the last diopter, hoping to get better shots still.
Thanks Brian! I was trying to avoid resorting to expensive tools or specific services since they might not be available to everyone (if I were back in Brazil, I wouldn't be able to find a place that understood my goals, for example). Doing it with stuff that you can buy off any hardware store is more appealing to my current goals of making the knowledge and tools accessible to everyone.
That being said, I believe I would've gotten a perfect result with a saw and saved myself some jump scares, burnt wire, plastic, transformers, watching stuff glow red hot and a TON of time polishing edges. HAHAHAHA!

An image is worth more than 1000 tutorials. I'm still in progress. Last night we spent about 4 hours playing with wires and stuff, and then. Today I kept going for more two hours and voilá! I still need to polish the edges, but it's MUCH better than my first attempt through brute force.

Every step has been properly documented and I'll still repeat the process for the last diopter, hoping to get better shots still.
Thanks Brian! I was trying to avoid resorting to expensive tools or specific services since they might not be available to everyone (if I were back in Brazil, I wouldn't be able to find a place that understood my goals, for example). Doing it with stuff that you can buy off any hardware store is more appealing to my current goals of making the knowledge and tools accessible to everyone.
That being said, I believe I would've gotten a perfect result with a saw and saved myself some jump scares, burnt wire, plastic, transformers, watching stuff glow red hot and a TON of time polishing edges. HAHAHAHA!

Thank you Rich!  Just did this for the front element on a B&H and it made things way easier!
Cheers,
|. . | .|

Yep! I'm documenting the process for a video tutorial, IF IT WORKS. hahahahah
I think it would be enough to cover it, since 4 inches = 100mm. You'd have to be creative mounting it, but aren't we all?

Fuzzy head this morning - absolutely confusing Focar for Foton. Now I see what you're doing!
Yep, you're best off getting cutting!!!
I remember a while ago, I was having a conversation (via e-mail) with QuickHitRecord about diopters & found a website that might do this sort of thing - can't find it in the ton of bookmarks I have at the moment, but do remember that it was in the US (I'll keep searching).

I don't have (and don't use) matteboxes, but this filter, at this price, kind of solves another problem that I had, which was getting close focus for the Foton-A. The original diopters are almost impossible to find lately and their prices are a joke. This one is enough to cover 95% of the glass and at this price, it's good enough to give it a go! Thanks James!

Would a 4x4 Tiffen close-up filter not work as a split diopter if positioned over half the lens? 
Maybe not strong enough? (can only find cheap +.8 online) http://www.ebay.com/itm/TIFFEN-4x4-FILTER-SQUARE-CLOSE-UP-DIOPTER-8-/381385016945

If you're noticing the aspect ratio change instead of the character's actions, that speaks for the movie itself. hahahaha
I think it's a powerful tool, definitely underused because there's no clear "rules" on how or when to do it.

This video cites several films which switch (or otherwise play with) aspect ratios.

Interstellar and The Dark Knight Rises are two obvious modern examples....there have been many over the years where 'traditional' scope formats have been intercut with Imax material , or simply for use as a creative device in the narrative. To minimise Aspect 'jump' - many home video transfers slowly expand the black bars out to reveal a 'taller' (often center cropped) aspect. (for when film is conformed for 16:9 being fullest image area to showcase letterboxed and 'square' Imax or 4:3 archieval format material
You'd probably be able to outfit that Inspire 1 with a small focus-through 1.5x or 1.33x  anamorphic, and get some pretty good results...if I had a drone, it would be the first thing I'd do

OLIVIA Scope was originally going to be a straight clone of an iscorama, just scaled up.  It soon became clear that in order to make something really groundbreaking we had to start out with a blank canvas.  Though OLIVIA Scope is operated in the same way as an Iscorama, because of the wide fov capability a racking adjustable diopter type 'untactful isco copy' focus mechanism would need a ridiculously over-engineered helical to provide shift of a big diopter element.      

 

Note, at the time the Isco patent was issued in 1970 the law was that the lifetime of a patent was 17 years from the date of issue.  When a patent expires the time-limited right of the assignee to a monopoly also expires, and the technology becomes part of the public domain.  So, its been completely legal to manufacture and sell Iscorama style systems since 1987, almost 30 years now!

A little more about them here - http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=8462
I think it was a matter of insight (realizing that the focus solution didn't need to be associated with an anamorphic directly in a complete system, against the Isco patent) and time to develop.

My initial test was disappointing.  The mod seems to suffer the same issue QuickHitRecord mentions near the bottom of the first post in this thread, where it can't quite seem to get to infinity.  The taking lens is a Helios 44 (not 44-2) that focuses to infinity just fine on its own and is flat up against the back of the B&H.  The front element of the mod  is sitting in the helicoid nearly touching the front glass of the anamorphic.
John Barlow mentions a negative achromat further down in the same thread as a solution.  Anyone know of this and how to acquire one?
Richg101 (or any other B&H modders out there) do you have any other thoughts/suggestions?  I'm hesitant to shorten the distance between the front glass and anamorphic any further because I'm worried about the glass touching each other.
On a positive note, the long helicoid allows me to focus down to about a foot (maybe less!) on my Helios without noticeable vignetting.  Some mighty focus breathing, though. I'm very close to finishing this mod and would hate to think all my effort has been for naught.  Any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated!
|. . | .|

I'm gonna use that for my resume, if you don't mind!
hahahahaha! The WB change was THE main thing that got me on the iPhone track, then I started to notice the rolling shutter and that could only come from a phone. Not many phones have anamorphic adapters and shoot 4k at the same time, so...
But it looks really nice, in terms of color and exposure. I suppose it doesn't do such a good job in low light, does it?

Yes, you got it right.
Funny enough, nobody else noticed the rolling shutter and auto WB shift that iPhone does from time to time, or the autofocus micro adjustments. 
 
Tito, you are the king of the world.

The cheap one is an iPhone with the moondog labs adapter or a gopro, or something with a ton of rolling shutter. :P
Are you gonna tell when we guess it right?

The cheap one is an iPhone with the moondog labs adapter or a gopro, or something with a ton of rolling shutter. :P
Are you gonna tell when we guess it right?

Exactly what Tito said about the fact that you can't spend loads of time & money on tests. Here's some of my stuff:
This was a test of a cheap anamorphic lens I bought in a drunken ebay bidding moment a few years ago at Christmas time (Canon 60D + Iscomorphot S8/x2:
 
This is Short film I shot for a friend, using the same set up (60D + Iscomorphot S8/x2):
And this is a short sequence for another Short Film, which I didn't like at the time, but have now gone back to the footage and am editing up for a quasi fake Documentary (60D + Iscomorphot S8/x2 - aspect ratio/squeeze is wrong on this one)):
 

test shot with Lomo Foton-A 37-140mm and Canon 50D.
test shot with Iscoramas (pre36 and 54) and Canon 5D3.
I have plenty of test videos with various lenses on my channel, but most of them are like you described (I always try to get people on all my shots), but shooting narrative is hard and expensive and requires much more preparation than a plain test. If you're shooting narrative, you're not testing, because it would be stupid not to bulletproof the workflow before heading down a narrative path with other people involved beyond the cinematographer (aka: me). That being said, I recently shot a 1.33x anamorphic shootout that I'm editing which is somewhat narrative (there's a very basic plot to it) and it should be up in a few weeks.

test shot with Lomo Foton-A 37-140mm and Canon 50D.
test shot with Iscoramas (pre36 and 54) and Canon 5D3.
I have plenty of test videos with various lenses on my channel, but most of them are like you described (I always try to get people on all my shots), but shooting narrative is hard and expensive and requires much more preparation than a plain test. If you're shooting narrative, you're not testing, because it would be stupid not to bulletproof the workflow before heading down a narrative path with other people involved beyond the cinematographer (aka: me). That being said, I recently shot a 1.33x anamorphic shootout that I'm editing which is somewhat narrative (there's a very basic plot to it) and it should be up in a few weeks.