richg101
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Posts posted by richg101
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[attachment=420:7D Trumpetsmall.jpg] This is an image of the coolest looking anamorphic setup I have ever seen. Cinevision 8mm 1.5x anamorphot, helios zebra 44-2 (with matched blue flares to match the horizontal blue flare of the cinevision) and the zacuto evf with 1.5x desqueeze. due to the amount of flare he has fitted a hood and variable nd which is probably a good idea for sunny days. this is how the system looks:-
flares:- http://vimeo.com/58577845 http://vimeo.com/59005040
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Nice! really tidy rigging of the hypergonar/planar/tokina. all nice and integrated. planars work really nicely with anamorphic imo. im using a 50mm on my iscorama. sharpness central! However i almost feel it is too clinical. I imagine you will get the best of both worlds now. nice and sharp while the micro optics will add a hint of character the iscorama maybe misses.
Based on my experiences with zeiss on iscorama I have started experimenting with modifying Helios-44 lenses in order to bring back some rawness to the image. I'm also looking at maybe getting a voigt 40mmf1.4 single coated
I'll be interested to see if you find the zeiss a little too clinical after using for a while. Will you miss the slight vignette and character from the hypergonar/voightlander combo? -
you'd expect the ovals to disappear after de-squeeze but from what i see, the lens is stretching the image more on the out of focus areas than the in focus areas. in the same way normal bokeh is bigger the further you are away from the out of focus area. de squeezing removes the artifacts from in focus areas but out of focus areas are distorted more.
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this is a really nice explanation of colour correcting. vimeo.com/14396098
because he does it by the numbers it allows a easier way to get your head around the logic of colour correction. once you can get something looking 'right', you can then understand what changes are needed to get the look you really want. This is aimed at users of adobe, but fundamentals are the same.
IMO AWB is often nice to use. More often than not it makes a better choice than I do when it comes to getting white balance right in multiple light sources. -
It happened to be on my desk at the moment, so I've done a quick test. Stills from 1080/60p videos. I think they're as near as identical! Or if there is a difference I'm struggling to see it. Perhaps the reds seem a tiny bit darker/saturated in the Adobe ones, but I am looking for a difference, which can skew judgement. What do you think?
sRGB
Adobe 1998
EDIT:
Tried it with my hand for more complex tones. Pretty much the same again! (It's a slightly different angle hence the darker index finger, the greatest of all picture profiles: LIGHTING! ;) )
in sRGB:
in Adobe 1998:
adobeRGB looks less saturated/flatter from here.
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I really like the way this conversation is going. nice deep boundary pushing of the use of what are considered by a lot of people as simply 'point and shoots'.
vimeo.com/46037571
this is interesting. putting the nex5n (which has the same list of options as the rx100 in terms of profile tweeking) against the 550d, gh2 and d800
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I think that everybody here is secretly or not-so-secretly hoping to find an anamorphic that no one else has and to make that look their own.
This certainly looks promising. Congratulations on your find!
Nice sharpness here. Looks really promising. I expected it to be a bit more flare prone than it looks. do you have a nice bright torch to blast into it? Would be nice to see some mega flares if it can make them.
re. Quickhitrecord's comment. it's true. its nice to have your own specific look. I'm currently looking at making some customised taking lenses specifically to help give a rustic look to less rustic anamorphic lenses. I'd love to hear your views about what you look for in a lens:-
http://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/2024-what-do-you-look-for-in-a-grungy-lens/
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If you were buying a really character-full lens to get a vintage or raw look what sort of characteristics do you look for? Is it loads of flare?, lack of contrast?, a particular colour to the flares and image? Weird defocus artifacts? rough ground elements? micro cleaning marks? misalignment?
interested to hear your thoughts:)
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set the alignment using a bright light so the flare flows horizontally.
adjust focus on the anamorphic lens to the correct distance using the scale
adjust focus on taking lens
this seems to be the fastest way for me.
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I believe the way the avchd compression works means the difference in data between frames when shooting at higher frame rates (50p or 60p) is less than the difference in data between frames when shooting at 24p, 25p or 30p. Because of the way the data is compressed, the codec records the difference between the next frame and its previous frame, rather than storing the specific data from each. In all but the fastest camera movements or footage of organic from such as animal fur the fact that higher frame rates only have a little more bitrate allowance doesnt have much of an effect on actual data retained per frame.
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the +0.5 gets you closer, the +0.4 gets you closer and sharpens too:) Shame your baby hypergonna is gone. What are you changing to?
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I bid on this too. But limited my bid to £120. I was unsure if it were a close focus one or not so didnt want to take a chance. hopsed the guy would post up another shot but he never obliged me.
this was shot on an 8mm cinevision 1.5x lens:- vimeo.com/58784632 but it is a different model to yours. I imagine yours will looks very similar
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more from this little beast:- http://www.vimeo.com/58784632
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200889030860?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619
it's up again. completely different seller. new email. they use an image for the text so ebay cant see the address on their screening of external contact.
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Yes, I've been using the 16x9 option for video recording, and I think that if you're in video manual mode you don't get that brightness change when you hit record, isn't that the case on the Nex?
up until i changed to 16:9 mode I found whatever setting I was using, flat profile, black and white, dro on/off, 50p/25p etc, when i pressed record the image changed very significantly from how it looked before pressing record. Now there seems to be less of a jump
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I just found a rather nice feature on the nex5n (which will be the same on the rx100 and other nex's)
You know how annoying it is when the image aspect ratio and brightness changes after you press record? Well, set your camera to 16:9 mode on stills and you'll get more screen area to compose in before you press record, and the screen wont crop and change your view after pressing record. Also for some reason you get a lot more accurate brightness/colour representation of how the image will look during recording, before you actually hit record:)
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Yeah I didnt expect the 7200 to look this good with no diopter, I rekon I can get more out of this combo yet
and the panny is looking a bit circa 1942 : )
Quick Q: do you think its possible to get the SLR 12mm somehow modded to focus beyond infinity or am I dreamin?
it will probably be an easy modification. if there is rubber grip on the focus ring, carefully prize that off and there should be a few grub screws underneath. it'll likely be a case of adjusting the focus ring so the scale is slightly off (you'll lose minimum focus by a few inches, and gain slightly further than infinity). This is of course depending on the +/- amount of adjustment they left on the lens either side of correct focus calibration.
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All of these parameters are very important to 2 types of people:-
1. The ones who shoot big budget films, cinematic automotive commercials and other high budget stuff.
2. The people who need a reason to not go out and shoot anything. Blaming the limitations of 8bit colour etc for their lack of ideas or personal drive.
I used to hanker after 444 10bit, uncompressed blah blah blah. now it bores me. IMO you'll probably be happier not knowing about it.
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unsure. but i know shutter speed is limited to 1/100th sec meaning you cant get 1/50th or slower. i plan on dissembling an rx100 and fitting a emount to the front so c mount and arri 16mm lenses can be used
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nikon 1 is nearly the same as 16mm, slightly bigger so some 16mm lenses vignette slightly
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No probs Sebastien:)
Here is some flares from this amazing little lens:- http://www.vimeo.com/58577845
Meet..... THE TRUMPET! (8mm 1.5x)
In: Cameras
Posted
The prominence of those patterns is probably more to do with the fact that the light source is a maglite rather than an LED based iphone flash that most people use to test flares. its a rather tight beam which blasts a lot more light down the barrel than a dot of blue light from a iphone:) The lens did have a few cleaning marks on the front element but I dont think it is the major cause. The taking lens has been modified internally and this could be a reason - light bouncing around where it shouldnt be.