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The Z6 III likely has a similar optical low-pass filter as the other models of the Z6 series which is reported as one axis only, so if there are high spatial frequencies on the other axis, these can cause moire or other forms of aliasing. Stopping down the lens to smaller apertures (such as f/11, f/16 etc. or using other means to soften the lens, such as a front filter) should eliminate the aliasing (including moire) if it does occur. The cause of this phenomenon is that the adjacent color filter array pixels can get different light (including different color of light), causing an interference pattern to form. Attenuating the high spatial frequencies optically should resolve the issue (and is the normal way to solve the issue). A thicker (two layers) optical low-pass filter on the sensor has the issue that the blurring is always there even though for some subjects (that are random enough not to cause problems) you might prefer the higher sharpness of the weaker, one-axis OLPF that the camera probably has at the moment. In video, moire can (in some cameras) be caused by line-skipping, e.g., when going for a high frame rate mode, this is common with some cameras to achieve 4K120, but on the Z6III 4K120 is achieved by cropping to DX so there is no line-skipping and there should not be any additional aliasing or moire happening due to the use of that mode.

How can it be luck? That's approx 100,000 frames of photography and approx 15,000 5-15 second clips of video (plus another 60 hours of static capture). For the photo side, that has been with; Sony A7RV, Nikon Zf, Lumix S1H and Lumix S1RII. Video, Lumix S5II, S1H, S9 shooting Vlog with LUT baked in. (Except S1H which has OLPF but no facility to bake in LUT). It's just my experience, - what can I say? You have experienced something else, but that doesn't make my experience invalid. What are these cameras of yours that are moire prone?

It will be fine but needs either a baseplate & grip for even basic handling but better a cage from someone like Smallrig. I have the Smallrig baseplate/grip myself for my needs but if I was going anywhere rough and for more than a couple of days, the cage for sure as it’s not the most robust camera ever built. S9 + grip + Sigma 28-70mm f2.8 (42-105mm in APSC mode), Sennheiser MKE 200, mount for monopod. If I had the cage instead of the baseplate/grip, I could mount 2 accessories instead of one such as a mini LED. As it is, I just have to swap out the mic for the LED if I need it. Extremely compact and lightweight package for it’s capability but neither the body nor the lens have any proper weather sealing so IMO, this is not something to take around the world when you are inevitably going to have some inclement conditions!

100% agree about the size, and when compared to the GH5 the difference in the hand is a lot more than what it looks like in pictures, so it's sort-of deceptively chunky. By the time you're looking at a GH7 "small camera" territory is so far off you can't even see it in the rear-view mirror! Perhaps the compromise is that the GH7 has an integrated cooling fan whereas neither the R5 nor Z6 III have it, and will be a larger again by the time you add on additional accessories etc.

The reason that I've been avoiding (and maybe others have to) mentioning the GH7 has nothing to do with low light and everything to do with it being as large and heavy as a lot of FF bodies. If you're willing to go that big, you could also get an EOS R5 or a Z6 III.

I can vouch for the GH7 as a workhorse. In terms of low light, I'd say it's fine. Here are a couple of stills from the GH7 with the Voigt 17.5mm F0.95 lens. I can't remember if the lens was fully wide-open or not, but I think the GH7 was at ISO 1600? These have a film grain applied, so the grain is deliberate. GH7 ISO tests are available online if you want to see the grain at various settings. Also remember that NR exists in post, and compression does a pretty good job of NR as well. The first shot is lit from the candle and the light of the fridge: and this is just the candle: Here's are some shots from the OG BMMCC from 2014 at its base ISO of 800, the 12-35mm F2.8 lens and shot at a 360 shutter to cheat an extra stop. These locations looked about this bright with the naked eye, and I have excellent night vision. You actually need far less low-light performance than most people think. Thanks! The issue is that you're either showing a very wide FOV, which will have significant distortions, or you're cropped in to the point where the quality is low because you're cropping out most of the data. IIRC, If you have a 100Mbps 360 image then by the time you crop to the FOV of a 24mm lens you're down to something like only a few Mbps. This is why I said the bitrates are what matters most.