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for sale iscomorphot 8 1.5x with redstan adapter included.


Cosimo murgolo
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f....`!!!!!!!!! I was wrong!!!!

But I have tried with a Soligor 135mm F3.5 and  there was vignetting all over

Why????

Thanks anyway

I am going to try with helios M44 58mm tomorrow.

 Or which taking lens will be suitable?

But on the video if you look carefully there is vignetting, it's shot wide open right?

That's the secret?

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  • 2 weeks later...

HI comurit,

 

I'm using an Iscomorphot 8 1.5x with 5D Mk II. Your question on which taking lens is suitable is something I have been trying to figure out and experimenting with, to the detriment of my wallet. Try reading Andrew's anamorphic shooting guide for clues. My personal findings (may be wrong) are that to minimize vignetting on a full frame: 

 

1) If you are not using crop mode, don't go shorter that 85mm for taking lens (I would guess 105mm is a safer bet)

 

2) Choose a taking lens that has a very narrow lens barrel (pardon if I get the term incorrect), meaning the lens diameter is not fat like a Sigma 35mm F1.4, but very thin like the Asahi Pentax 35mm F3.5 (M42) that I am using (risking daily the mirror hitting the rear element of the lens)  

 

3) Try using crop mode paired with a wide lens (35mm x3 will be 105mm) - I searched ebay and found that even old manual focus lens in the 85mm-105mm focal length are not "thin" enough as mentioned in (2) and thus non-crop mode will be a struggle.  

 

4) Mount the anamorphic lens as close as possible to the taking lens front element. 

 

Hope that helps.

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HI comurit,

 

I'm using an Iscomorphot 8 1.5x with 5D Mk II. Your question on which taking lens is suitable is something I have been trying to figure out and experimenting with, to the detriment of my wallet. Try reading Andrew's anamorphic shooting guide for clues. My personal findings (may be wrong) are that to minimize vignetting on a full frame: 

 

1) If you are not using crop mode, don't go shorter that 85mm for taking lens (I would guess 105mm is a safer bet)

 

2) Choose a taking lens that has a very narrow lens barrel (pardon if I get the term incorrect), meaning the lens diameter is not fat like a Sigma 35mm F1.4, but very thin like the Asahi Pentax 35mm F3.5 (M42) that I am using (risking daily the mirror hitting the rear element of the lens)  

 

3) Try using crop mode paired with a wide lens (35mm x3 will be 105mm) - I searched ebay and found that even old manual focus lens in the 85mm-105mm focal length are not "thin" enough as mentioned in (2) and thus non-crop mode will be a struggle.  

 

4) Mount the anamorphic lens as close as possible to the taking lens front element. 

 

Hope that helps.

Thanks for your tips, but the item has been sold.

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on the subject of smaller anamorphics on full frame.  using long lenses will reduce any vignette however you will still be subjected to heavy transmission losses.  a 100mm f2.8 lens on full frame with one of these small anamorphics wont show any more exposure than f5.6, even when opened up to f2.8.  depth of field will get shallower as you open the aperture, but the actual exposure wont increase.  - this is because the actual surface area of the objective element on a 100mm f2.8 will be around 3 times the surface area of small anamorphics like this.  without the front surface area, light simply cannot be transmitted in enough quantity.

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