Rhood

On 10/31/2022 at 4:37 AM, scotchtape said:

For the ZSYB light I only tested at undervolt settings and the readings are good, haven't bothered to do a full test at 300W.

I bought the Yinleader 1000W transformer, it's like $60USD on Amazon.  I just plugged it into a wattmeter initially because the output was halved compared to the FS300, I checked with the transformer and it's drawing 300W so all good there.  @j_one I'll update when the other light comes in the mail, might be complete trash.

It's this one (can't even search by name, there is no name in the listings and I couldn't find any others lol):

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003436322681.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.18031802IdPYPY

The photo says QinYue AR-LX0101, tried to search for reviews etc but found nothing except listings in Thailand. It's $120USD on AE. 

The handle mount looks like crap and the remote has no display, but if the light is good it should work in an array for sun fighting power, plus it looks very compact.  Sound might be an issue though since the front looks like the old design where there is airflow through the front (yuck).  At $120USD it's 1/3 the price of Nanlite FS300 which already was the cheapest "good" 300W LED at launch of $350, now $380USD. 

The ZYSB at half price would have been amazing if not for the power issue, I don't know enough about PCB circuits to determine what to replace on the board, if anything.  If anyone is interested in helping that would be appreciated because it would be a killer deal on a light for the price... Quiet, powerful, lightweight, remote, cheap (and cheap build quality) but good quality metrics.

I did test the voltage of the DC leads to the COB and they measured at mains voltage, so I'm not sure what the coil transformer on the PCB does.  But that probably saves weight since there's no need for a transformer to change the mains voltage for the LED.

Out of curiosity have you tested that cheap 300W light?
That ZYSB seems like a great find, I'm based in EU. Might try it out. Did you check the kelvin and the green/magenta shift as well?

Any people here who've had lots of different gimbals in their hands?
Especially wondering about the Letus Helix Jr., anybody any user experience? Seems hard to find reviews/experiences on the internet.
How does it compare to the newer gimbals? And in general, how do older gimbals (for instance Ronin M) compare to the newer ones?

What if you want to mount the gimbal on for instance a car, are the newer ones better at that?
Can the Letus one be screwed on to something from its platform that it sits on?

Thanks

On 11/7/2022 at 7:20 AM, kye said:

 

Have you tried adjusting the EVF diopter?  It sounds like yours isn't adjusted properly.  My understanding of how to adjust them is to set it so that your eye doesn't have to change focus when looking at the subject directly and looking at the subject through the viewfinder.

These adjustments are super-powerful - my dad wears pretty strong glasses (which obviously aren't compatible with putting your eye right up to the viewfinder) and he's always been able to adjust them to compensate for his vision, so they're at least as powerful as a pair of relatively strong prescription glasses.  

Thanks for the tip. I don't wear glasses.
I had thought about the diopter, but didn't know the not focusing looking directly at subject and switching to the viewfinder.

Might go with a recent iPhone at the moment. And maybe next year go for XH2S and have the XT3 as backup and replace my 550D.

3 hours ago, MrSMW said:

Yep. I just about never use a viewfinder these days and haven't for years.

Stop right there and stick the new 33mm f1.4 on it and et voila, 50mm FF equiv.

It depends on how anyone defines 'Point & Shoot' but superb files out of the XT3, very decent video spec & quality (no IBIS though obviously) and that new lens is reckoned to be a bit of a gem.

With it's tilt screen, I'd call that a P&S.

I hadn't really thought about that 😂
But then I kind of need the new XH2S. 
I like having one body (and lenses) in pristine condition for studio & film work, although with film it can get dirty sometimes.
And one body and lens combo for dirty work, the fun thing about my 550D is that I wasn't really worried about it. 

By the way it's 50mm on APS that I'm after, so around 75 on FF
Is the Viltrox 50mm any good? Or are the Fuji ones better? I have the 60 macro, I like it for still life.

Hi all,

I love a viewfinder. I really do.
But after seeing through the viewfinder, my vision gets blurred for a few seconds.
I've been having this for quite a long time now, and it's getting worse.
Does anybody have this too?

So now I'm trying to let go of the viewfinder.
I have an XT3 which I use for studio work (and film projects), there it's quite easy to not use the viewfinder.
But I also have a Canon 550D which I still use for point & shoot kind of stuff, not in the compact way that I take it everywhere with me. 
More in the sense of filmset, concert, bands, vacation, etc.
I use the 550D viewfinder only, the screen live view is not very useable for me. A small vintage manual focus 50mm f1.4 lens is almost permanently attached to it.

So the 550D kind of needs a change...
Any advice, suggestions or thoughts? 

If you need some parameters
• I like the 550D's grip's form factor style (the XT3 even with small rig's L bracket grip is slightly awkward handling)
• Some articulation in the screen is good
• If it has a pancake lens with autofocus in the 50mm range, that's great (I do like an aperture ring, but that's probably too much to ask)
• I like dedicated buttons, like with the Fuji X range. But I'm open to other stuff.
• Has to be able to shoot RAW (stills), and the RAW format should be supported by Capture One. 
• Better low light performance than the 550D now that we're changing.
• Budget, let's say around 500. (flexible)

List of things I'm considering
• Fuji XE with a grip attachment (but the 50mm lenses stick out quite a bit, could vintage lens but also quite sticking out)
• Fuji X-Pro with a grip attachment (but the 50mm lenses stick out quite a bit, could vintage lens but also quite sticking out)
• Sigma Quattro seems like nice grip, but the camera seems quite big. Also not sure if C1 supports, and lens mount is sticking out a lot
• A new iPhone with one of those dedicated camera grip things and a (tele)lens attachment. (I actually hate taking pictures with smartphone, but maybe not with these toys)
• Fuji X100 if it had a 50mm f1.8 (or lower) I would have chosen already.

Aaah
Still not decided on the monitor part.

Is the backlight type important?
Is it stupid to look at the power consumption?
No clue why NEC has double % numbers.

NEC PA301W 
10 Bit
30"
2560 x 1600
155W (90W Eco)
P-IPS
CCFL
98% / 107% Adobe RGB
93% / 102% NTSC
100% / 144% sRGB
Around 2011
Around 100 euro

Benq PD2700Q
10 Bit
27"
2560x1440
58W (28W Normal)
IPS
LED
Pantone Validated / Technicolor certified
100% Rec.709 & sRGB Color spaces
Around 2016
Around 175 to 190 euro

I know they both have a low price tag, and probably both are ok.
But which is best, or would be your pick?

Thanks for the huge amount of knowledge @kye

Sorry to re ask my question, but I don't want to wait to long to buy.
Is it bad to buy a used callibrator? Anything that can go wrong with them? A used Xrite eye one pro package going for slightly cheaper than the i1 display you suggested. Eye one pro is quite old though, better to go with more recent models?

I noticed some calibrators can be used to calibrate projector. That can be handy in the future, as we might go for a projector instead of a tv in the living room.

Thanks for the input.

I had this sort of feeling when I was looking and searching for some reviews.

A similar question as with the monitors. Is it bad to buy a used callibrator? Anything that can go wrong with them? An used i1 pro going for slightly cheaper than the i1 display you suggested. I’m only looking for Xrite as I once heard they are the best.

12 hours ago, kye said:

I suggest this model of calibrator: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1506566-REG/x_rite_eodisstu_i1display_studio.html

Then buy whatever you can afford with the rest of your budget.

Buying a monitor without it being calibrated is like having a two-year-old adjust all the secret manufacturers monitor parameters and then using it as a colour reference for your work.

Thanks for the advice, I was planning on xritecallibration, but not immediately. You made it more urgent now.

Also saw some used Benq PD2700 monitors, are these better than the NEC talked above?

I'm looking for a monitor  to accompany  my M1 Air.
I don't have the budget for a crazy accurate monitor.
Right now I'm using my laptop screen or sometimes I use an iMac 27" from 2019.

A few questions.
Is it stupid to look for used monitors? Is it very bad if they are 6 tot 9 years old?
Are there brands to avoid?
Is it always better to go for a photo or color grading orientated monitor? Or is it better to go for brand? For instance I know Eizo is a very reputable brand.
They have cheaper options available that are not orientated towards photo/color grading. 

I think I'll set the budget to around 300 max. Do tell (and explain) me if that's too low.

I came across a used NEC PA301W, it seems like a huge beast of a monitor. I can get it for around 150. Seems like a deal?
I know it's quite old though. Any opinions on this?

Thanks!

The Jinbei EF-ZF3 I'm talking about
https://www.jinbei-deutschland.de/en/products/ef-zf3-spot-vorsatz-2399

The Nanlite PJ FZ (Forza 60 mount)
http://en.nanlite.com/products/detail/PJ-FZ60

Fine detail work could be for instance illuminating a label, having a mini slash of light on a (small) product, etc.

I know the Nanlite PJ BM (Bowens mount) is not really suited for this type of work. As when you get up close you start getting the rainbow effect.

I watched the gaffer and gear review a few times.
Normally with a projection mount he says if it's any good for product and fine detail work or not.
 

There's currently a promotion running but it ends soon.

So my question, is it also good for fine detail work?
Is there a difference quality wise when paired with 60 or 150?
Other thoughts?


Has anybody had there hands on the Jinbei EF-ZF3? How does it compare to others?
 

On 2/21/2022 at 10:17 AM, Django said:

 

A quick search on GFX forums confirms this:

Same with my GFX 50S.

The OOC jpgs have heavy chroma NR applied (with in camera NR -4).

Developed raw, with NR off or low, moire false-colour artefacts become apparent (colours between dead white stalks in field below), though small coloured objects are retained - such as red berries on distant trees, even the subtle colour shifts in the autumn leaves is lost. The chroma NR removal of fine coloured information in the OOC jpg is great loss IMO.

The bayer CFA of the GFX is v.prone to moire and false colours on hard edges, but not x-trans - with those sensors OOC chroma NR need not be so high.

Fuji X jpg engine chroma noise reduction setting very high

Since the GFX 50 and Hasselblad X1D share the same sensor.
Is the X1D affected by this as well?

11 hours ago, androidlad said:

Again the root cause is indeed the X-Trans CFA. Fuji uses a demosaic algorithm for video/jpeg that prioritises speed and efficiency in a small camera body. This leads to colour smearing issue. It doesn't happen to X-Trans RAW stills anymore because modern RAW processing softwares have much more refined algorithms to deal with X-Trans.

I disagree on the modern RAW processing.
I'm at the moment switching from Adobe to Capture One.
It comes with a few extra pluses, like the ability to buy a perpetual license (a big plus in my book).

2 hours ago, Nikkor said:

In stills cameras CCD cameras have much nicer noise. A shame they stopped developing CCD sensors.

Well it’s not only in stills camera’s.
The Sony F35 I mentioned earlier uses a CCD sensor as well.

It’s digitally as close as you can get to film / print.

The Alexa is of course pretty close as well, but the grain is nicer on the Sony F35.

2 hours ago, Django said:

Agreed, my Leica M9 is by far the closest to film camera I own. Not just noise but also image thickness and colors. It just nails that film look. Digital Bolex (arguably the camera with most lo-fi mojo) also used the Kodak CCD.

Another great benefit from CCD was global shutter.

But sadly the DR & ISO spec race killed CCD in favor of CMOS.

I think it’s actually due to production costs. CCD sensors are more difficult to make, and cost more to produce if I’m not mistaken. 

Most pleasing grain ( / noise) on a digital camera?

Definitely the SONY F35

also
Panavision Genesis
Ikonoscop a cam dII
Arri Alexa

(If you are interested. I might be tempted to sell my F35 for the right price. It’s sitting on the shelf as most of my work now is photography based.)

Thanks a lot for the recommendation @bjohn!
 

Then why are there camera specific IR Cut filters to be used with ND filters?
And why are there ND / IRND filters that produce quiet different results on camera A vs camera B?
Ok, it may not be the sensor but it may be the IR cut filter in front of the sensor. I've seen it, on Alexa/Red/Sony. It could be that it's different for Hdslr / Mirrorless cameras. I just added the Fuji X, since there are quite a few people on this forum who use or used this camera and probably have one or a few ND / VND filter they use or used on their system.

Also I'm not looking for the perfect filter.
Just looking for a decent variable ND filter that is good enough.
A few years ago I used Lightcraft variable ND filter, it was good enough. There's probably something better and cheaper around now?

I disagree about the not camera related thing. Of course they can be used on various cameras.
But some might perform better on camera sensor A versus camera sensor B.

I know variable ND's aren't as good as single ND filters.
I have a mattebox and rectangular ND filters.
I'm looking for a Variable ND filter for documentary and other faster pace type of work.

13 hours ago, kye said:

the quality is limited regardless of budget.

Also, cost isn't a predictor of performance either, with some mid-priced options out-performing higher priced options, often quite considerably.

That's exactly my reason for asking here 🙂
Since there are so much variations out there.

@MrSMW Thanks! I'll look into the Gobe ones!

Will check it out!
Thanks!

Hi all,

probably already discussed but the search option on the forum didn't do the trick.
What are the best budget variable ND filters for the Fuji X range? What to look for?

Anybody who has any experience with these from Rollei?
https://www.rollei.com/collections/rundfilter-nd-filter/products/fx-pro-variabler-nd8-512?variant=33074919833677

Thanks!

Ah I see!

Would a focusing diopter on the front solve this?

Thanks!

Hi,

I have an Iscomorphot 16 2x lying around.
I searched here on the forums and on the net but couldn't find the version I have lying around.

Mine doesn't have any rings that turn.
So it seems like focus through version?
Is anyone familiar with this version?

I did some quick test handholding it in front, but didn't seem to get it sharp at 1 to 3m.

Ok thanks a lot for the clear answer!
Was about to buy, thinking it would be more or less the same as a focus diopter.

Hi,

does anybody know what a vario diopter or close-up filter is?
On the filter is marked 2.3 to 3.7 feet.

Is this like a variable diopter ala SLRRangefinder for example?

Thanks!