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BTM_Pix

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Everything posted by BTM_Pix

  1. You just need to send it a format that it understands and it will restore the correct menus. So when you are connected to the camera type any one of these into a browser : http://192.168.54.1/cam.cgi?mode=setsetting&type=videoquality&value=avchd_50p_28mbps http://192.168.54.1/cam.cgi?mode=setsetting&type=videoquality&value=avchd_50i_17mbps http://192.168.54.1/cam.cgi?mode=setsetting&type=videoquality&value=mp4_25p_100mbps_4k If you aren't in a PAL region then use these ones instead : http://192.168.54.1/cam.cgi?mode=setsetting&type=videoquality&value=avchd_60p_28mbps http://192.168.54.1/cam.cgi?mode=setsetting&type=videoquality&value=avchd_60i_17mbps http://192.168.54.1/cam.cgi?mode=setsetting&type=videoquality&value=mp4_30p_100mbps_4k
  2. Right, leave it with me as it is close enough on both for me to see the issue and fix it. Use it in landscape for now and I'll get a fix organised and rolled out.
  3. OK, I have a very small screen device here to run some tests on. Would you say that this was in the ballpark of what you are seeing in portrait mode ?
  4. Thanks for that. Just a very quick test if you can which will help a bit, on the startup screen select Key1 as this is the portrait locking mode designed for the Blackberry but may help here if you are using it in portrait mode. If you start it up when that is enabled and see if you get the same issue. It won't orient to landscape when its in this mode but it will at least give me a starting point to look at other things. Cheers
  5. Sorry to hear you've had problems. The Android version shouldn't be an issue as it should be compatible with 2.1 onwards. If you can answer a couple of questions then I'll be able to try and get to the bottom of it. What type of phone is it, specifically screen size ? Are you using it in Portrait or Landscape ? Which parts of the UI aren't scaling and can you post a screenshot ? Have you moved from v1.4 to v1.5 or from a previous version? Which combination of focus and zoom do you have enabled in the UI (if any) ? Are you using it with the Nucleus Nano? Does it become unresponsive when controlling a specific function from the app (i.e. changing aperture) or when it is receiving something from the camera (i.e. you've changed the aperture on the camera) ? Are you using an EF adapter when this happens and if so which one/lens ? Are you running anything else on BLE on the phone (headset etc) ? Cheers
  6. I met Steven at Photokina last year with @Andrew Reid and my 2 cents based on even that brief amount of time would be that they should have just let him speak as he's far more engaging than this video represents.
  7. I haven't got a Z6 but looking at the manual, there is an additional attenuator function if you can't get the line level signal low enough with setting the gain to 1. I don't know whether the H5 can generate a test tone but if not you can use a site such as this to generate a wav file that you can play out on it to calibrate the level on the Z6. And the GH5 for that matter. https://www.audiocheck.net/audiofrequencysignalgenerator_sinetone.php With regard to the Ninja V, it can record whatever is coming through the HDMI or through its own 3.5mm input. To make sure that any delay is constant, I would record what's coming through HDMI from the Z6 rather than putting the H5 output into the Ninja V directly. It will likely compensate if you did connect it directly to the Ninja V but its adding a potential variable that isn't worth having as I'm presuming your master audio in the edit will be from the H5 anyway and you will be post syncing so its best to guarantee that you are keeping the reference audio from the Z6 in sync with itself. More broadly speaking though, if you are going to be doing these two camera shoots a lot then if it was me then I'd look at investing in a timecode solution (if for nothing else than reducing your cabling ) Atomos are finally about to release the AtomX sync module for the Ninja V and this would let you set up a very effective wireless timecode network with a couple of Timecode Systems Ultra Sync One units attached to the GH5 and your H5. As Atomos have also just bought the Timecode Systems company, the compatibility should at least not be an issue between the products ! The total cost would average out about £200 a unit but as I say, if you are doing this a lot then thats a small price over the long term for the reduction in hassle during and after shooting. https://www.newsshooter.com/2019/11/14/atomos-atomx-sync-first-look/
  8. As I said, the apps have additional tools beyond what the Panasonic app does though and this mitigates the lower resolution for me. FieldMonitor is more comprehensive but Gmonitor has the same edge detect function. The only solutions if you want to maintain the resolution is to either use cable and a regular field monitor that has its own focus peaking or my current pimping product of choice the CineEye which will give you a combination of both 1080p quality and wireless transmission to an app with the extra focus tools.
  9. I've mentioned this site before but it allows you design foam cutouts for gear. Its predominantly designed for Peli and SKB cases etc. but can give you a good idea of how much space you'll need in a new bag. It doesn't include every brand or model of camera but there are enough to give you a good idea and if you want to be more precise for your own specific gear you can import images of it to trace. This is a really great tool if you are as spatially challenged as I am. Which explains why I've just managed to do this and fit a C100, GH5, MavicPro with controller, two lenses, a Rode NTG2 and spare batteries for all of them with room to spare in a Peli1510 when in my real 1510s with my haphazard arrangements I'm lucky to fit half that in ! https://mycasebuilder.eu
  10. Yes, it would work exactly like that. To be honest though, for this application, the path of least resistance would be to buy FieldMonitor for iOS or GMonitor for Android and use your phone. Both of them tap into the streaming signal as per the Panasonic app but are full screen and have additional focus tools that will make it far easier to do. A lot less hassle with cabling etc as well. Cheaper too.
  11. The camera sends the lens capabilities back to the app to let it know which functions to disable. What you have circled there is the AF selector that opens up the options (multi point, single point etc) when you click it . It also enables the "manual" focus controls for AF lenses to be accessed when its active by swiping up. If you put an AF lens on the camera you will see these options appear and then disappear again if you swap to a manual lens. If you put an AF lens on but your overall focus setting in the camera is MF then this option is also greyed out as, of course, you have no need to change AF modes if you are set to MF.
  12. The transmitter you mean? It can actually be mounted flat on the roof of that cage with a 90 degree adapter and leave enough clearance for the monitor above it. But yeah, once you get any sort of rig involved the options increase a lot. As does the form factor of the whole package so its a lot less Micro
  13. Might be a daft question but why don't you just use the USB audio recording option that the S7000 has built in to go straight out to a small SSD drive like a Samsung T5?
  14. I'm sure we've been here before but.... The only solution is to use your phone with either FieldMonitor on iOS of GMonitor on Android. Both will stream the signal over wifi and offer you enough focus and exposure tools to offer a solution. The resolution is limited but being able to go full screen on a larger screen and the additional focus tools will make up for it.
  15. Shhh...I have one gathering dust in my storage locker doing just that and was hoping to offload it It cost me £15 at a computer fair about 8 years ago because the stall holder thought it was some sort of office dictaphone device.
  16. Its a step up in price but Sony's own 28mm f2 might be an option. Its more of a soufflé than a pancake but it doesn't look too unwieldy on the A6500 Its full frame as well so a bit more versatile if you change to an A7xx Decent run through of it here with the A6500.
  17. If you are talking about for APS-C and don't mind manual focus then the 7Artisans 25mm f1.8 or Meike 25mm f1.8 are both pretty compact. Pretty compact price too.
  18. Yeah thats the beauty of it in that you can scale up or down what monitor you use with it depending on circumstances and there are a few 3 inch Android phones around now that are ideal. Only thing to be careful of with older devices like the iPod Touch is that it needs to be a model that can work on 5.8ghz wifi. I really like the Sidefinder thing that SmallHD did for the 500 series. Pity someone doesn't do it for other monitors as having a 5" monitor in that side on configuration makes so much more sense with narrow cameras.
  19. True enough but its the NPF batteries that add it back on. Having said that, my Ninja V even using one of the slimmer NPFs would have to do some serious low carbing to get down to my phone's level of slenderness Yeah, the fixed battery is a limitation but on the upside finding alternative power sources to keep the phone running is a lot easier.
  20. Its a tough ask these days finding one with AES3 but if you don't mind using a cheap adapter to get to SPDIF then there are a couple of Tascam options at not too horrendous a price. The SS-R100 will give you the rack mount option for just under £400. https://www.thomann.de/gb/tascam_ssr100.htm If you want to save some money, have it double as a field recorder and actually get a higher spec on the recording front then you should be able to pick up a used HDP2 for about half that price. Its a bit of a dinosaur by modern field recording standards but it will get you that digital input that you need which the newer ones lack. https://www.soundonsound.com/reviews/tascam-hdp2
  21. Hey @mercer This might seem like a sledgehammer to crack a nut but bear with me. This is the Acsoon CIneEye HDMI that enables you to transmit the HDMI camera output to your Android or iOS device over wifi up to a range of about 100 metres. For just over £200, it does seem slightly overkill to spend that amount when you are only going to be transmitting about 2% of that range and a cynical view would be that used in the way I've got it here makes it is a very, very expensive virtual HDMI cable . And you'd probably be right in that cynicism or perhaps wrong depending on how you work. Starting with the practicals, here is how I have it mounted to the cage. Initially I was finding it slightly awkward to find a good position to mount it because its tripod mount is on the base so I used the cheap mini ball mount to effectively change it to a 90 degree angle. One happy accident of this is that having the adjustable ball head means that when it comes to changing batteries, the ball head can be loosened and the CineEye can be swung away. The phone is mounted with a SmallRig monitor mount and a cheap adjustable phone holder. This combination means that it can be oriented in every direction so you can have standard rear facing, tilted side view or of course front facing. The mount also means that you can just fold it flat when in front facing mode to make it compact to go in a bag. So once its mounted, what can you do with it ? In short, a lot. It offers a range of selectable monitoring options including Grey Scale Monochrome Focus Peaking Zebras Safe Mark Center Mark Histogram LUT loading And of course a false colour mode There are also options to punch in and also some anamorphic de-squeeze mode but I haven't tested those. The big question of course with these wireless solutions is latency and the figures quoted by Acsoon are 140ms for iOS and 200ms for Android and whilst I've only tested it on Android and wouldn't really challenge their figure. In practical terms, I'm OK with that sort of latency that I'm getting with it in use and bear in mind that my Samsung phone (and possibly yours) needs a build of their app that uses software decoding so is likely a worst case scenario. I haven't used this combo in a heavily saturated WiFi area (though to be fair, the amount of different routers in my house probably does replicate a small town ) so I can't give any idea about performance impact but the CineEye does actually seek out the clearest WiFi channel to use when it boots up so at least there is some method to try and counteract it and the channel can also be set manually. What else can it do that a monitor can't to justify getting one? Well for one thing, as its wireless you can just unclip the phone and go and monitor from anywhere around the set which is a boon for anyone working on their own who is positioning lights or altering a mic boom etc to not have to go back to the camera to confirm the changes. The signal can also be shared by up to four different devices so if you are working in a larger crew then they can have their own feed or you can have it on a bigger tablet on a stand etc Another aspect that can also be beneficial using phones to monitor on is that a lot of them have very high brightness levels. The overall form factor is also helped by how much slimmer a phone is compared to a monitor. As both the phone and CineEye have internal power (the CineEye run time is about 4 1/2 hours) then there is an additional big saving in not having to use additional power. Does all this mean that its better than a dedicated wired monitor ? On a technical level in terms of resolution and latency then thats a firm No. However, its certainly more flexible and far less hassle to power and depending on how you work that might make it more appropriate. More product info here https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1485196-REG/accsoon_cineeye_wifi_full_hd_5g.html
  22. See, so there was something audio related for you in the thread after all
  23. Coincidentally, I was just about to post that Atomos have been tweeting about demonstrating it working today at the Inter BEE show. Whether that makes it any closer to anyone else being able to use it is another story though.
  24. I think unless you literally have to do work in the field, rather than just would like the option to sit and edit video in Starbucks , then the price of this thing would give me pause to consider the desktop option for the price/performance ratio but also the expandability. I find that there is also a really important discipline aspect to it as well as with a desktop by you having to have it in a fixed place and I find that far more conducive to concentrated working when I have to go to a place with a desk and a chair. With a laptop you can sit on your arse on the couch in the living room and work but it quickly ends up being just the sitting on your arse on the couch part as you are in living room mode rather than workspace mode and lose concentration. Its worth bearing in mind of course that if you did want to sit on your arse on the couch or edit in Starbucks then with a network/decent internet connection you can easily remote back to the mothership monster motherfucker beast desktop from a small laptop and have it do all the hard work. You can pick up a 2015 11" MacBook Air for less than £300 which is ideal for that role and many others. The main point I'm getting round to though is that going back to working at a desk is a good move as we all need to buy these 32:9 monitors ! All that processing power counts for not a lot if you're spending most of your time scrolling and re-sizing.
  25. It was using just the LCD panel that I had for a Pi rather than the Pi itself. Like this one If you actually did want to incorporate a Pi into the equation though, you could use an HDMI to CSI-2 bridge such as this one to get the signal into it in combination with OpenCV to make a solution with monitoring functionality such as false colour, focus peaking etc.
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