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​I've got my MUST HD M-701, and tried it out, and it works fine. I tried 4k UHD 25p, and it works, also I tried C4K 24p and it works!

I did not download the clip. But the description reminded me of something my beloved GH2 did. Bright sunlight and noise?

That was due to the setting 'iDynamic' (or sth. like that). Shadows (compared to the sky, the pagoda may be several stops darker) were 'pushed' and therefore showed this red mosquito noise. Check that.

If that's not the case, you could buy a cheap IR-cut-filter, because with my current Pocket, I also get weird noise without the filter (I have a good one though, the Tiffen, that has been tested to cut off the right frequency for the BM sensor).

I have the Leica D Vario-Elmarit 14-50mm F2.8-3.5 from Panasonic. When I bought it, it came with UV filter attached. Recording with the UV filter attached I get the same noise patterns as in your clip. When I remove the UV filter, the noise patterns are gone. It happens with some cheap P-size ND filters(Stealth Gear) I have as well.
The Contax Yashica lenses I have don't suffer from such noise patterns when I have the StealthGear-ND's attached, at least not that I noticed. Never tested them with an UV filter.

Are "native" lenses more sensible? …no idea, but I'm pretty sure it's not your GH4.

this is ungraded, right? that could change things. But my understanding is that there will usually be some noise with the GH4 (something some people like about the camera to help reduce banding etc). are most of your finished products in 1080p? that downscaling will help with noise a lot. you could maybe overexpose slightly and then adjust in post to get a less noisy image - can be risky for certain shots, especially bright daylight like this, making dynamic range and highlight clipping worse, but it will hold up better to this than some camera's images. Don't think it sounds like you're doing anything wrong though. the noise there was pretty subtle and not distracting imo

Edit: plus Neat Video helps

​Hi, thanks for replying.

I bought a MustHD M-701 7" monitor. Some people are saying that if I'm recording 4k internally with my GH4, I won't be able to use the monitor, is that true? Is it not possible to record 4K internally and just use the monitor for framing, focusing, etc?

The GH3/4 batteries are the best. They last for ages on the GH4 and even longer on the GH3.

Think you looked up the wrong thing. It's:

 

663-O/P2 features a native 1280 x 800 panelpanel

​I order a lot from Chinese webshops, AliExpress/DHGate/Taobao/Tmall, eBay and so on. Never really had any issues. A lot comes down to research of the product and the seller. And of course have realistic expectations about what your money is going to buy you. But yeah, rather be skeptical than naive.

​Can't speak out of experience, so you should look into it some more, but from what I've gathered that would be a fine one. If you're looking in that range you might also want to check the Lilliput 663/O/P2 (mind you, there are other versions of the 663 as well), it has some additional monitoring features.

I'm trying to figure out how to upload sample pics but EOSHD seems to have a super low data allowance. Any ideas?

There's some good affordable ones from Aputure, Lilliput, Ikan, MustHD and the likes. 

​I Subscribed to your channel. I like the video with the apes tacking a bath in winter. As a suggestion your videos are pretty statick, try to get some movement in your schots.

in your Sakura video did u use the F1.7 aperture?

There's some good affordable ones from Aputure, Lilliput, Ikan, MustHD and the likes. The other day I found two more on eBay and AliExpress which looked pretty good value for the money, the Feelworld and Seetec. I guess those are amongst the lines of an Viltrox, which also seems to have two decent models. Kinda depends on what you're looking for. Some are basicly just bigger screens, so you can frame and focus a bit more clearly. Others actually do feature peaking, false color, perhaps some punch-in zoom and markers/guides. Only the more expensive ones also feature the more elaborate features like you'd also find on these monitors that are also recorders. So. Yeah. It all depends.

​I agree, for nearly everybody the price vs performance gain you'd get with a GH4 isn't worth it. Is easier to argue the case for using it with a Sony A7s, as it is "crippled" without it because it can't do 4K internally. But then you're looking at a very steep total cost... you could buy 3x GH4 for that!

Also, rather than Atomos Shogun I'd be seriously keeping an eye on these instead:
http://www.videodevices.com/products/portable-video-recorders/pix-e

A 10 inch screen on a tiny mirrorless camera is a rather bulky setup, 5 inches strikes me as being much nicer. 

As for getting a URSA Mini 4.6K... why??  You already have a GH4! And as you said, you're a newbie. (remember the URSA Mini 4.6K doesn't cost "just" $5k, once you've got a full kit up and running with it the cost could easily have doubled. That is an insanely large amount of a newbie to spend, when we live in a time of so much cheap gear that does great stuff. Such as a GH4)

Keep the GH4 and instead pick up lenses for it, such as a kit of Rokinon Cine DS (in Nikon F mount) lenses, or a Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 with a RJ Lens Turbo (Nikon F to m4/3). Or any of many other useful additions, such as set of Dedolights, or DJI Ronin-M, or a Konova slider, or Rode NTG3, or.... the list could go on and on!!

I suggest the order of priorities to spend money on should be:
1) don't spend it, keep it in the bank!
2) any of a huge list of items.... which are not a camera body
3) last of all URSA Mini 4.6K

In a year or three this could change however, when the URSA Mini 4.6K has come down hugely in price, or something else new has hit the market, or you're earning money with your GH4, or you're feeling you're starting to grow past the GH4, etc

But for right now, for where you are, that order of priorities for #1 / #2 / #3 sounds about right. 

​Nice video and good low light. Was this the Cherry Blossom Festival? Would Love to visit Tokyo sometime. Maybe at the time of the fireworks festival​

I would skip on  such a device for the GH4...  The price vs performance is not there.

For time lapse, there are plenty of forums (such as this one) that are time-lapse centric with way more specialized knowledge.

The best TL work I've done, I've shot manually - auto exposure just doesn't seem to be exact on each frame and I've gotten flicker that way. Also, when your lens is stopped down, it's a mechanical process to go from wide open (between shots) to stopped down (shutter open). The shutter - in every system I have ever owned - doesn't quite close the exact same amount for a given exposure. So again, flicker, and lots of it unless you shoot wide open.

With an aperture-ring Nikon lens on a Nikon body, you can stop the lens down to the f-stop you will use, unlock the lens, and twist it towards removal - just enough that you hear the aperture click down to the stop it's set for. This locks the aperture in place, and no more flicker. This may work on other camera systems, but there are probably aperture workarounds on the timelapse sites. You do have to take care when you're done with the shot, since the lens will be loose and can (theoretically anyway) fall off.

1. Yes
2. Yes - might need to stack in your case
3. Nope
4. Nope
5. Try another CPL that doesn't give a tint, or save a custom WB when you use the CPL

Don't feel bad for asking questions

A lot of people, Andrew included, have had good results cheating a bit with shutter speed for exposure. Don't go crazy with it. Definitely less movement is better. faster could be better than slower, if you're breaking the 180degree rule. 120 and 240 won't look the same as 60.

I'd think you at least have iso 400 as well if you want it, which could help, especially if your nd's aren't variable (which could be a good option too, but variable nd's have issues in specific situations and get pricey) - but if you've tested and decided against iso400, you know better

​Don't get me wrong. I like that too. If something impresses me, I try to capture it, just for me, no intention to impress others. Few years ago, I made this short film about my friend's experiments with the GoPro as an underwater camera in an unsuspicious lake. I graded the stuff as usual (had not much grading experience then) and was mesmerized at how the colors changed magically during a clip. This had to do, as I now know, with asymmetric clipping of the GoPro.

So I guess I'm not a purist. If things get weird, look weird, they are interesting.

Like I wrote above, I was very impressed by Tarkovsky. In his films, nature always 'does' something. Are they 'contemplative'? Oh yes. Watch this.