anti12

Hopefully mine will arrive tomorrow.

Some pid tuning tips for Beholder DS1 and Alex Mos Gimbals:

Hello AaronChicago,

did you already test Log Converter vs V-Log L?

Thanks a lot.

The Panasonic G7 also has 4k Photo Mode which allows 4:3 @ 30 FPS. Don't know if you can change the framerate or record with sound.

Thanks for confirming Ebrahim. This should fit without problem. The comment about some FF Systems needing modification got me worried.

Thanks Zak. So no re-adjusting of Follow-Focus will be necessary. On Ebrahim's Photos the difference seemed much bigger.

Hello Ebrahim,

I hope the Lens-gears are wide enough to compensate for the extension and still cover the full range from 1m to infinity when using it with a standard Follow-Focus.

Or do you have to move/reattach the Folow-Focus after a half rotation of the Gear-Ring?

http://www.adorama.com/SLRRCA.html

He didn't bother to test it.

@robtilbury you have to set the camera to 10bit (disabling internal recording) This will resize the 4:3 image to fit into a standard 16:9 4k Frame (loosing some resolution) I think you need at least an atomos shogun to monitor, de-squeeze and record anamorphic 4:3

​That's strange. Maybe the 2,3x Crop of the GH4 helps to completely loose the ugly edges.

​No, it's the C60172 for PD150/VX200o Bayonet Mount Version with a glued on 58mm Thread for the taking Lens.

I guess it's the sharpness of the Pani Lens that can't be hurt by the Centurys softness.

Here is a Clip mostly shot with 2x Cinelux + FM and some 1,33x Century in the Mix:

For example the second and third shots are Century, also the first flare in the Basement @ 1:08, stairway flare @ 1:58 and 2:07-2:22

with less grading:

It's very easy to remove the Glas from the plastic bayonet and put it in a cheap UV Filter Ring.

Love to use my century in combination with the Panasonic 20mm Pancake. It's surprisingly sharp.

I'm only scared the heavy Lens will at some point break the tiny motors in the Lens.

You must set the camera to 10bit to enable 4:3 over HDMI whitch disables internal recording.

At the moment Atomos Shogun is the only way to go with the GH4.

​I didn't.

When I moved to the Focus Module for Cinelux there is a 72mm to 68mm step-down ring in the set.

Didn't find it very practical, I moved on to a more expensive single focus solution.

My Nikon lenses extend while focusing so I never connected them to the Cinelux

I tried to close the gap with a rubber lenshood.

But If you like to use step-up rings: The thread on the Cinelux is 68mm.

The Tripod Mount Ring is a little bit to wide so I used some Tape. You can also try to drill threaded holes for nylon screws.

2x Tripod Mount Rings might help to keep the Cinelux from twisting sideways when not connected to a taking lens.

Good Luck!

You can use those cheap parts to build your Cinelux support:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DSLR-15mm-1-4-and-3-8-Thread-Tripod-Mount-Plate-Rail-Block-Rod-Clamp-5D2-5D3-/281667005669?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tripod-Mount-Ring-for-Canon-EF-100mm-f2-8-f-2-8Macro-/250827007518?

or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tripod-Baseplate-Plate-Mount-For-Follow-Focus-15mm-Rods-Rail-Support-System-5D2-/171000567512?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOTGA-DP3000-Tripod-Mount-15mm-Rod-Support-Base-Plate-for-DSLR-Rig-Follow-Focus-/331020232705?

I used some of those in my experiments

The description states that Focus is achieved by pushing and pulling. Maybe the Zoom Lens works like the Diopter on the FM.

As far as I remember he used the Cinelux Anamorphic with their corresponding Fixed Focus/Fixed Iris Projektion Optics.

Also he custom 3D Printed an Adapter to mount them on Arri Amira.

Using the Vizelex ND Throttle (Lens Adapter with build in variable ND) will change the character of the Lensflares.

First image plain Adapter (Nikon G to M43) Second image with Vizelex ND Throttle.

Both at f2,8. Vizelex @ minimum setting will take at least on stop, compensated here with shutter speed adjustment. 

​I was actually using the Glass from a 72mm Filter. (which is smaller than the Filter diameter itself)

Hello Cosimo, I'm not on Facebook but feel free to repost anything you consider useful.

A variation on the Flare inducing UV-Filter method established by Hans Punk.

To get the Filter as close as possible to the back of the Cinelux I placed just the Filter-Glass inside the Step-Up Ring which is coupling my Lens with the Focus Module.

68mm Filter-Glass fits perfectly inside a 52mm to 72mm Step-Up Ring and leaves enough play to screw it firmly to the FM.

Well I guess it's time to move on. Hard to argue against so much funded wisdom.

Seems like I have to dump my sharp single focus 2x Cinelux / FM combo.

Must be my fault that I can't produce soft, distorted images with lots of lovely CA like other recently hyped 2x double focusing anamorphics do.

So the 75,-- bucks I had to spend for the Cinelux were a complete waste.

Now I need to get one of those bargain Isco 36 plastic lenses. I heard they can’t do close focus below 2m without modification or diopters, but who on earth would need to get any closer? I sure hope they come with a decent user manual.

Will helicoptersean now offer this Gears? What did you pay? What is the weight? (The RafCamera Gear seems quit heavy @ 240g)

Can you take a picture of your setup?

Thanks for your efforts!

@silkey you will need something hight adjustable like this for the Camera:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/FOTGA-DP3000-support-system-follow/dp/B00EOMBNF6

and something like that to mount the FM Module to the Rails:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/System-15mm-Railblock-Wingnut-Color/dp/B009QH12P0

http://www.amazon.co.uk/SMALLRIG-2PCS-Threaded-Screw-Adapter/dp/B0093IU4A6

if the Thread in the Railblock is 3/8 you also might need this:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/SMALLRIG-Convert-Adapter-Tripod-Release/dp/B0089TYEIS

or that:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/SMALLRIG-UPDATED-VERSION-STANDARD-Converter/dp/B0092KPDTW

I think it's actually just a placeholder for the Anamorphic Lens. Something to keep the pieces together when in the box.