Inazuma

Go with the G6. It has focus peaking

:D

so, there is NOT a speedbooster for CANON EF to GH4 M 4/3 right now, correct?

There's loads.

I'm sure youre mistaken there somehow Axel. The only reason there's a DOF difference is because when using the same lens on different sensor sizes, you have to stand closer or further back to get the same frame. And of course when your distance changes, so does the amount of background blur.

If at 4k the GH4 with BMCC Speed booster has a 1.4x crop, then does that mean it could still possibly work with the Sigma 18-35mm? That would be sweet.

Fascinating. I'd also like to know the laws regarding shooting people and places of businesses and putting them on film to the masses like that

Can anyone tell me whether or not I can use Nikon lenses which have aperture rings on lens turbos that have aperture control?

I'm a bit late coming to the Party ,

 

but today I got a Mitakon Lens Turbo speed booster Nikon AI- Micro 4/3

I got this specifically to use with the Angenieux designed Tokina AT-X Pro Series 1 28-70mm f2.6-2.8.

This is a legendary classic Angenieux lens design and has a very very cinematic look to it ,

I like using it with a Tiffen ND16 so I can shoot f2.6 outside , stunning narrow dof bokeh heaven with this lens.

 

So the Lens Turbo on this lens makes it an f2 ish 20mm-50mm ish lens

 

First impressions are wow !! the Lens turbo increases sharpness alot on this lens , it was good before but now Im getting peaking blue lines all over the place on object edges on my G6 - alot more than before

at at 28mm (which is now 20mm) it is very sharp

 

so by using this Lens Turbo it has given me a 20mm f2 sharp lens which is very useful.

 

The Lens turbo does a superb job , I like the look it produces , wider, faster, brighter and sharper!!

 

Also if you put a +0.5 Diopter on the front of your lens that also increases sharpness alot on these speedboosters

you loose a degree or two of field of view , BUT for objects 10 feet or nearer it has a big effect increasing sharpness.

 

This trick will be useful on the cheaper Chinese RJ Jinfianance speedboosters as they are a bit softer than the Mitakon Lens Turbo

Hi, could you post some sample photos/videos so I can see how this lens performs? Also could you tell me how its ergonomics are?

The 550d was my first camera. When I look back at footage I shot using that camera, I can see a clear difference in quality between it and my subsequent cameras (Sony NEX 6, Nikon d5200, Panasonic GX7). It is clearly inferior in detail, aliasing/moire and noise. The stills were good, but not better than those others cameras. DXOMark's ratings are a bit faulty. For example, the Nikon d800 and Sony A7 are tooted as having amazing high ISO performance. But when I look at dpreview.com's comparison gallery, I can see the Canon 6d and 5dMk3 are clearly better in high ISO.

Thanks for your post maxotics :) The BMPCC is for sure a nice little camera, but for the most part I don't see why you wouldnt be able to get the look of it using your GM1 and some grading.

I dont have a setup myself, but have been pondering about it for quite some time now. I found this "Capa R1" http://www.amazon.co.uk/Compact-Camera-Video-Shoulder-Support/dp/B00H3LN4HA Essentially a pistol grip with chest support and rails so you can mount a follow focus or some other stuff.

Why does the BMPCC have such an incredible amount of moire?

Can someone clarify something about aperture equivalence for me. The focal reducer will increase light gathering by one stop, but how will it affect the DOF shallowness? So 35 f2 lens on mft would become 25mm f1.4, and then multiply again by the mft crop factor, it becomes a 50mm f2.8?

Either camera will do, but in both cases youll want to use an external recorder- otherwise youll have this really long, awkward wire dangling from the interviewee to the camera. Also as others have said, youll want a prime lens. Kit lens' aperture is too small and will force you to use noisier ISO levels. The Sony E 50mm f1.8 is a superb lens apart from its focus ring has an extremely long throw, which makes manual focus a real pain.  Both cameras have great autofocus systems. The Sony will track movement much better though.

If you can afford another G6, why wouldn't you? Keep using the same workflow, same lenses. The cameras will have the same colour renditions, etc.

Its not just about being able to move around the focus point. You can also "look around" the image kind of like a 3D image - but much more realistic. It's actually quite amazing and I think it could have interesting applications. Think Harry Potter where the images have dimension.

Price is on par with the 5dmk3 but with better IQ and lens flexibility. Sounds reasonable.

Is the sharpnesss of 1080p on the GH4 on par with previous models or better/worse?

Yes, when I had the lens I found it flared a lot (which I personally didn't mind). The Olympus 17mm f1.8 flares a bit too. By comparison the kit lens on the a6000 doesn't flare at all.

I just have a non beta version arrived. After a bit fiddling I would like to comment on a few little things I miss and couldn't find in the reviews:

- I hate the app system for WIFI remote control. why not just selecting wifi on in the menu and the smartphone can start to control

- The wifi control app has only ultra basic control. No manual exposure or video control. Hope this can be fixed soon over software updates. I was hoping to especially use this a lot for video purposes :-/

- It makes quite a shutter noise when picture taking

- When I switch the camera from pal to ntsc mode the camera always starts up with a warning that it is set in ntsc. Huge delay :-/ - the little lanyard hooks actually rattle a bit, metal on metal is not that discreet. I will try to make a solution to this myself I think...

- the charging over usb is only at 0.5A according to the charging block. Really slow. Compare this to the 2.4A of a modern smartphone recharging over micro USB... Still have to test if it would go faster with smartphone cable/block.

- peaking goes only for vertical lines in focus, almost not for horizontal ones...

What do you chaps think of this?

There is already a bigger thread with more personal experiences :) '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>>

I will say I knew there was something wrong with the peaking, but wasn't sure what it was. You probably nailed it. I also found the peaking to become less intense whilst shooting video.

It's funny how you guys are still debating when I posted pictures and videos clearly showing the differences in dynamic range, detail, moire/aliasing and noise - all of which are superior on the Panasonic.

First order of business should be to create a sticky defining "misbehaviour"

Funny thing to say, but whilst watching the video, I inadvertently learnt a few new things about cooking :p Cool stuff, well done. Impressed by the 5S footage too.

To me, the Canon stuff looked like typical Canon DSLR footage. The Sony had more character, although maybe graded too harshly.

I only have the Olympus 17mm f1.8. But I have used quite a few different lenses on other systems when I had them. This focal length has proven to be my most liked.  50mm is too flat and has no charm. 75mm is too close for general purpose. 24mm is nice but only for landscapes. 35mm is perfect.

The fast focusing and ability to snap back the ring to manually focus makes this lens a joy to use. You could also check out the Voigtlander 17.5mm f0.95, though it's 3-4 times the cost and very heavy for a m43 prime.

I've also owned the Panasonic 12-35mm f2.8. But I feel the zoom range is too limited to be very useful. I'm thinking of adding the 35-100mm to my collection though.

I own both the A6000 and GX7, as well as a GM1. The GX7 bakes a little more sharpening in-camera. Once I apply an unsharp mask in FCP, I actually prefer the A6000. Detail is much the same, but the A6000 footage just looks more organic and shows less shimmer (looks more stable). In low light, it is superb and cleaner than the GX7. And for stills, the A6000 is considerably better in every way.

This is really the complete opposite of my findings. A6000 bakes in more sharpening (especially noticeable around edges such as around the tree I posted earlier) whilst the GX7 shows nothing but organic detail. I also did another test last night and whilst the Sony again proved incredibly capable at AF-C in low light, the performance was worse. Bigger and more chromatic grain with more detail smudging.

I'm kind of considering getting a BMPC or BMCC in the future. My main reservations has always been about the file sizes. Could you guys tell me how much space each minute of footage takes?

Is say the a6000 is definitely worth the extra money over the NEX 6. The better EVF and menu system make it a lot more usable (i actually ended up selling the nex 6 partly due the poor EVF and handling). Video quality I can confirm what people said above in that you can recover some highlights. However the detail in video is subpar compared to my Panasonic GX7. To be honest, in the end I would make your choice based on lenses. RAW image quality wise I would say they're pretty much even.

Has there ever been anything filmed with medium format?