Smeeth123

Got mine today! Using it on the Ronin-S with the Pocket 4k and Nucleus Nano. Very impressed with its ease-of-use and setup. Finally feel like I have solid focus control on the Ronin-S with an overall payload that doesn't utterly destroy my arms. Unfortunately, the front housing on my unit came off as soon as I opened the box. Nothing a bit of super glue didn't fix. Otherwise, working great.

There is a display button that hides various sections of the overlay, but that bracket is the one thing that doesn't go away. The only instance where I seem to be able to make it go away is by attaching an active micro four thirds lens and switching to auto focus. Still seems odd to me, but whatever. Hi Michael. I just want to make sure I'm understanding you correctly. Are you saying that your GH3 screen doesn't exhibit the same tilt that my GH4 does? Or are you saying that it has the tilt, but it's not an issue for you and you don't notice it when the camera is facing you? Sorry if I'm being nitpicky here gang. Just want to make sure I don't need to send this thing in for service. I'd rather do it now, than have the screen snap off or something and have support blame it on me. Anyone with a GH4 have a direct comparison?

It does go away when recording. Like I said, it's not a big deal. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing some buried menu option. Thanks for the help everybody.

Hi Ivan, Good to know about the screen. Fn3 just punches in focus assist zoom for me. The bracket returns when I return to the normal view mode. I reset everything back to factory default settings just to be safe, and I still can't get the damn thing to go away. I'll live with it if I have to, but seems really weird.

Finally received my GH4 from B&H last night. I haven't had much of an opportunity to shoot yet, but so far the image seems to be as fantastic as everyone has made it out to be. A huge step up from my hacked GH2. Only two very minor issues have been bothering me, and they may well be born out of my own ignorance (photos are attached): First, when using manual focus I've noticed that a white bracket appears in the middle of the monitor/evf that corresponds to the area that is zoomed when using focus assist. For the life of me, I can't figure out how to get that bracket to go away (other than wait for the UI to fade away automatically after a minute or so). Perhaps it can't? Anyone know if this was also true for the GH3? Secondly, I've noticed that the articulating screen doesn't seem to fold out to a perfect 180 degrees, which results in a slightly awkward angle when the screen is being used. I can imagine that this might be by design so that the the hinge doesn't hyper-extend as easily. Can anyone confirm? Neither issue is by any means a deal breaker for me, but the second is somewhat concerning.

B&H now lists their expected availability for the GH4 for tomorrow, April 25th. :lol:

Not necessarily. There's a wide array of great micro 4/3 glass out there that will work natively on the GH4. In fact, that's really the only way to get full electronic control (aperture and auto focus) with this camera. However, yes you would need an adapter to use any other kind of lens mount (nikon, PL, canon, etc).

Forgive my ignorance, but what's the best utility/workflow to downscale 4k to 1080p if you don't use Premiere? I use Final Cut. Would Compressor work? Or is it as easy as adding 4k footage to a 1080p timeline?

Hi all,   I've been shooting on a GH2 for a couple years now and I was super excited to finally get my Black Magic Pocket Cinema Camera last week. I don't see any of the sensor blooming that some users have reported but I do have a couple of concerns, and I was hoping that someone out there could take a look at this clip and see if I'm just being overly critical or not. I'm just slightly concerned there may be something wrong my with camera. The footage was shot using an SLR Magic 12mm T1.6 set to T4, with ISO at 800 in Film mode. The footage is entirely ungraded with internal mic volume set to 100%   First, I'm noticing some strange electronic noise from the built-in mic. It's relatively low in the signal to noise ratio, but it seemed rather odd. I doubt that it would be much of a hindrance (especially since the mic is pretty crappy anyway and I would only ever use it for scratch audio). Still I thought I'd ask if anyone else out there has noticed this on their camera.   Secondly, I'm finding the footage to be somewhat less sharp and generally less aesthetically pleasing than what I've shot on my GH2 with the same lenses. It's entirely possible that I'm simply rubbish at grading (I haven't touched Resolve yet, played around a bit with Film Convert and the Antler Black Magic Plugin for FCP X) but I'm finding that footage shot by others seems far more vibrant and sharp than what I've been producing.   If there are any other BMPCC users out there who have any suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it.   Thanks,   Matt        

I would first test your camera with another computer if you can. That will tell you right away if the problem is with your computer or your camera. If the camera is the problem, try a different card, could be the read speed is too low or the partition on the card is corrupted. If it's your computer, test in a different user account. You might also want to re-install Final Cut, or at worst Mac OS X.

Shotgun mics will definitely do a decent job in most indoor environments. However, I find that in many rooms they tend to pick up reflections that can cause dialogue to have a somewhat unnatural sound. For my money I would recommend a super or hyper cardioid small-daiphram condenser mic, like the Audio-Technica AT4053b (as you mentioned) or the Audix SCX1. The Schoeps CMC6 MK41 is definitely the cream of the crop for indoor dialogue recording, but it usually goes for just shy of $2,000.    Don't get me wrong, all of the shotgun mics mentioned here are fantastic, but for indoor use, they are not always the best option.  

Just a quick question for Andrew or anyone who happens to know: using the Unified hack, what bitrate and settings are used for 24L? It's not listed on the chart on the Hack Vault page. I know I could just go look in Ptools, but I'm not going to be back at my computer for awhile. :) Thanks!