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ND Variable...

Francisco Rios

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Has anyone experience with some good ND Variable.
I have one but when there are some reflections on things , then I got some ghost image on the lens.
There are so many ND variable on the markets. For example we have a lot of Fader and don't know which one is a good one.
Some said they are Multicoated but I don't trust on them because the low price. A multicoated glass is expensive to make.
Who knows or has the heliopan?
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Funny i just got done researching this.
I am on a budget but want pretty good quality, not junk.

You can create your own variable ND by stacking 2 polarizers. Then you have both ND and polarizer for one price.

According to tests, best polarizer for the money is the Marumi DHG Super line. 2 of these is about $160 on AMAZON. But that covers [u]both[/u] your ND and polarizing needs. Great deal and tests show this is as good as much more expensive filters. Will be thicker than a single filter so might need to get bigger filters to prevent vignetting with extreme wide angle lens.

If you dont want to DIY, according to tests, best buy in a [u]reasonably[/u] priced variable ND is this one ($125):
But then you will also need to buy additional polarizer.

I'm DIY  ;D
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I too was looking for a decently priced ND fader. I purchased the Fader ND from Light Craft workshop. Very reasonable, and I think that the quality is very good. As Iʻm using Nikon glass, the 24mm f2.0 and 50mm f1.4 (where lens fronts are 52mm) and a Panasonic 14mm f2.5 (46mm front). I was able to buy 3 52mm Fader NDs— I stepped up the Panasonic les with a step-up ring. Now, I donʻt have to fumble swapping filters in the field, just grab a lens/filter combo.

BTW, I would warn you: it appears to me that the Fader ND is very susceptible to lens flares. I was shooting in a forest, and when the sun hit the Fader, the picture went "milky." Get yourself some rubber lens hoods, and youʻll be fine.



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Thanks Jeff,

I got no problem with the milky images. As you said , it's posible to prevent with a hood or sometime better with a Flag.
I have my own DIY flag to fix that.

My concerns are with the ghost images. They just appears and there is no flag or hood to fix them. Sometimes even in a cloudy day they appears. It's dificult to see on the field but then when I check in post , I can see them. Normaly I saw them when the camera moves. If the camera stay calm, these ghost are dificult to see. They stay "camuflage"

What's your experience with these issue with Lightcraft?
It's a good idea to have the lens/filter combo to avoid the "fumble swapping filters in the field".
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I saw what you might consider a ghost just yesterday. Just playing with the camera, pointed it a an extremely bright jalousie window, the kind with an opaque surface. I could see a double image of the window, and I assumed this was a reflection in the ND Fader. I just tested this now, and, while the ghost image is there without the filter (very slightly), it is much more pronounced WITH the filter in place.

In a real-world shoot last week, I was loving this filter! I never had any ghosting issues, only the low-saturation problem ("milky" looking video) that came from not having a lens hood in place. I think that these problems are a small price to pay for all of the other benefits of the filter.
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Ok Jeff!
You are right about the big benefits and the small problem that we may have with these tool.

For all research and discuss I made, The Lightcraft should be one of the best value for quality/cost.
Just be sure to get the right one. There are a lot of Faders brand and we are talkin about LIGHT CRAFT WORKSHOP.


Thanks for your time Jeffdeponte and Texcam!
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