tomsemiterrific

Zebras and waveform are based on V-Log. "Like 709" does not have the dynamic range. Outside shooting will be better with Log. But my own experience with "like 709" is that it has beautiful colors and is a top candidate for best "out of the camera look" for inside shooting, interviews, etc...if you don't want to grade. Probably answered earlier, but if not: focal length should be set to the length the speed booster creates from the lens. So, if you have a FD 50mm lens with a 0.72 speed booster, the focal length you enter into the camera is 50 X .72= 36mm

Things I would like. Hmmm. Add to the list----FALSE COLOR!

Actually, they are. But the reversal is not in the Fn menu setting. It's a few items below it. Typical of the camera companies they do weird things. Why not have one category for all options? Nope. Can't do it. Put wheel options on another line, and put the options for the joy stick settings in the place you make the settings under one category (fn) and enable the option to make the joy stick settings in a completely different place in the menu. Who decides this stuff anyway?!? And Nomenclature---don't get me started!! The disp. function button is in a terrible place--right where you will want to hold the camera--especially if you have a fairly weighty lens, like the Sigma 18-35; and you can't disable it. So, instead of it being helpful, it becomes constant possible distraction.

I'd like to see the ability to switch the function of the aperture and shutter speed wheels. I'd like to be able to toggle on and off the disp. function button. It's constantly in the way,and when you bump it you have to cycle through the whole array of menus before you can get a clean screen to shoot.

Thank you for your kind and helpful suggestion. Here are a few clips that show the problems.

I was using two lenses: Sigma 18-35 1.8, Canon 24-105 F4, with Metabones speed booster 0.64. GH5 has been updated, Metabones speed booster updated a few weeks ago.

I'm having some jerky motions with the stabilization on my GH5, not all that different from the problems I had with the g85 stabilization before the first firmware update corrected it. What could be causing this? Anyone experience such problems and found a solution?

sage advice....but never the less...

I have been working with the color matrix adjustments found in the "other settings" or the C300 mk II. I find it a bit mystifying. Do any C300 users have any suggestions about how to approach these adjustments and their expected effects on the image color? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

What do you do when you just got a GH5, want to shoot, and it's raining cats and dogs on a Texas afternoon?

I note that Sony does not make a battery grip for the a6500. The a6300 has several grips made by third parties--some of those claim they also work with the a6500. But do they? The one I ordered does not. Or better said, Sony won't let it. I ordered a grip branded Vivitar that worked--for a few minutes, but then the a6500 kept putting up a screen sign saying the battery grip was not an authorized product so something like that. I could block out the sign by a half shutter button tap and shoot, but the sign would then pop right back up again. Maddening! Frankly, I really like shooting with the a6500, but a battery grip make everything better regarding stability and control. Anyone have experience with a battery grip that actually works for the a6500?

I was lead to believe after a certain serial number of the 5Dmkii that a downgrade is not possible. I owned one two years ago and I recall I could not downgrade the firmware. Has that changed.

I was shooting with my 24-105 F4 Canon zoom with the new Metabones firmware---and it seemed to work fine. Then, out of the blue, three separate times while shooting yesterday it locked up and the F-stop froze at 2.5. The only fix was a shut down and restart. Anyone has similar issues with the 24-105 or other lenses?? Everything else, so far, has worked fine. The Sigma 18-35 has worked better than ever.

Andrew, I though the 5D mk III had been made by Canon so a Magic Lantern hack could not be made. Do I have wrong information about this? With the magic lantern hack of the mk III how would you compare shooting with it to the Sony A7sii?

Punch in for focus for non-electronic lenses.

False color would be great. I'm so glad they included a vector scope!

??? Run that by me again?? You can do this while recording??

I'll throw in the first suggestion: Be able to toggle on and off the vector scope and the waveform while shooting--like Sony cams can. And also show the vector scope and waveform on an external display--like Canon does.

So, Jon, how to you expose V-log? And do you expose Cinelike D the same way you'd expose Natural or Standard?

I got it. The adapter now works a treat on all Canon/Sigma EF mount lenses. Metabones comes through!

I'd buy it.

This is a relative world--not an absolute one. We only know quality and performance in one thing in relation to other things. I'm not a professional--just a very interested amateur who wants to get the best possible results with the equipment I have. And to me that means being abreast of what equipment is available and what its capabilities are. Most pros I know are almost constantly obsessively searching for equipment that will make things better and easier, and their loyalty is to results not a brand. I think I agree Jon. It's kind of weird when someone doesn't--especially a professional.

I shot with the waveform yesterday--without the view assist, and highlights were pretty well controlled. But I note over all I tend to over expose standard rec. 709 by just a bit. Exposing for the sky sounds like the way to go. Maybe in this case the histogram will work better than the waveform. What is your zebra setting? Still confused about the relationship between the View Assist LUT the actual exposure results in the V-log. I'm willing to experiment, but I'd like a good starting point.