Elpeos

{Please ignore the "quote" form NX1user - the board reply function is bugged and wont let me get rid of it for a few hours no matter who I reply to}

For manual focusing enter photo mode to use peaking along with X5 or X8 magnification. If you try to use peaking in video mode you don't get magnification, you get the entire screen. And since it is using contrast boundaries at a crude level when doing that, a lot of things show up as focused when they are not. My RX100M3 has the same problem...if you want accurate manual focusing for video you have to do it in photo mode and simple start recording when you are ready (without going into video mode).

The workflow is (1) shutter press to enter photo mode; (2) use X5/X8 magnification with peaking to get the lens focused; (3) enter video preview mode if you need to reformat; (4) start recording. You can skip (3) and just start recording if you know your subject is framed.

I haven't had that problem with my 16-50 S. Maybe try adjusting the peaking strength, I have mine set on high.

Also, the focus peaking isn't stripes, the stripes are for exposure. Focus peaking is outlines around objects or where dark areas meet light areas. I switched my focus peaking to red so I wouldn't confuse it with the white stripes of the exposure function.

I've found the focus peaking to be pretty accurate with the 16-50, though it can be a bit tricky at the wide end since so many parts of the frame show the peaking. I generally have to go back/forth till the peaking is maximum at the point I want.

Also, hunting has reduced quite a bit with the latest firmware update. I covered an event a few weeks back, and it held pretty steady. Do you have the latest update?

True, that upper left hand number of 29:59 is the maximum single take duration, at which time the camera will stop. Determining how much total time you have left on your SD card can be guesstimated. If you look at your status window, which is the LCD on the top right hand side of the camera, to the right of ISO is a number. A newly formatted 64GB card will read approximately 3465. That number is the total stills capacity left on that SD card. You'll notice when you roll video, that number will deplete. I haven't had the time to figure out what one minute of video is in terms of how that reflects to that number. Basically, when I see around 700, I switch the card. 

I think any of the three cameras you name can do well. You just have to pick one and learn to use it the best! 

There are so many specs, hidden faults (heating sensors), that to choose a camera is more difficult every time! But in the end you will work with what you have!

€999 for the SB XL?

Where on Earth are you buying it from?

It's only $649USD direct from Metabones - which is around €595. Or is there a crazy import-tax or something I don't know about?

If you can afford the SB XL, get the GH4, if not, get the RX10 II.

 

Maybe you should consider the new Panasonic G7 too, since it delivers almost the same quality of video as the GH4 (except log, as and when it comes), has slightly better low light, and far less prominent fixed pattern noise. Also, it is priced for the camera body along with the lens (either of the 2 lenses). For the amount you save, you could add a cheap chinese metabones copy, on a not too expensive f2.8 zoom like the sigma Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 or the super fast sigma f1.8 18-35mm if zoom range isn't an issue for you. 

 

I have had the same issue, these were the cameras I also chose between. I have crossed off the NX1 easily as it has no log, extra transcoding hassle and isn't really even available in the UK. Other Samsung cameras are almost impossible to sell.

The GH4 with the booster is the correct choice if you already have lenses and it sounds like you do. People sell GH4's used for almost new price which proves this is the best choice. The booster makes it a pro camera and when it gets log that will be etched in stone. 

The RX10ii might be available for much lower prices from eBay or other sources, depending on your country; I am guessing not if you are using Euros. I have just seen a review which confirms the Rx10ii is right for me as I can get it cheap and I am strapped, but I don't already have Canon lenses. 

Get the GH4.

You might want to look at the ImageVision Z E1 camera on Kickstarter. Depending on what you're filming that could be a good option. MFT, 16mpmpstills with raw, 4k 60Mbps, 1080p60, 720p240

I'm in a very similar position as you. I'm looking at all of them for the high bitrate 4k and 1080 120fps slow mo (where GH4 has only 96fps) but rolling shutter does bother me in many cases and also I want to be able to get shallow dof. Also, I would like a good camera for stills that performs better than my t3i.