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Gabriel Copoeru

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Posts posted by Gabriel Copoeru

  1.  

    i would totally ge this if it wasn't so expensive. EOS said tokina's go for $70 to $150, not $250+

    well, I've seen them go for around 300 Euros on ebay; redstan has listed the tokina with a pricetag of £300 (!!);  I myself sold the first one I had for 300$; I would always welcome a counteroffer, just so you know

    if I have that money, would like this better : http://www.slrmagic.co.uk/slr-magic-achromatic-diopter-set.html

    ​ken, that's not very fair of you to be posting a misleading and off-topic reply;  that is a set of diopters that are currently in production, unlike the rarer tokina, and around 120$ more expensive. you can find other achromatic diopters of different strengths and price ranges, but I don't see what this has to do with my sale

  2. I'm selling the very rare Tokina Achromat with the +0.4 diopter strength. You know the drill: it eliminates chromatic aberrations, sharpens the image and gives you a reasonable range of focus. It is in excellent condition. I do not do much anamorphic shooting, as I don't have such a great setup, so it would be better if someone else had this, who would benefit more from its great quality. 

    I'd prefer not to put it up on ebay, as I've sold another one this way (yes, I am the type of lucky bastard who gets a hold of not one, but two tokinas, in local photography shops from one of the poorest countries in the EU, i know, it's ludicrous) and I would prefer to cut down on the price in the benefit of forum members, than to pay ebay's exorbitant seller fees. Payment would therefore be made directly to my paypal account.

    Price: 250 EUR / 267$ + cost for tracked & insured shipping (varies depending on the destination country and preferred courier)

    For shipping you have a choice between UPS, DHL, DPD, Romanian Post and others. Please message me for any type of question, or if you would like more detailed pictures. I realize that a transaction outside ebay raises concerns, so I highly suggest that you first communicate with me instead of brushing it off, if you are indeed interested and in need of this diopter. We could also chat on facebook where you will find me with my forum name, or even arrange a video call on skype. 

    Thank you for your interest in my listing!

     

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  3. If I'm not mistaken, some 16mm anamorphic projector lenses have double use as film lenses, as well. But if you are talking about the Krasnogorsk 3 camera, you will need to mount it on something other than the Meteor 5-1 lens, which has a rotating front element focus that will throw off your alignment.

  4. Thank you very much for your excellent insight. What about this Tamron, now, how would you rate it?

    the only flaw in your test is the camera.  the s16mm sensor is very forgiving to lenses.  assuming you ever wanted to shoot on a bigger sensor the differences will be more obvious - particularly at the edges.

     

    the tokina was originally designed for use with a tokina at-x 70-200 f2.8 zoom, on full frame.  to bring minimum focus distance down from around 1m to around 0.6m if i recall.  if the achromatic qualities were not worth having, tokina wouldnt have bothered and would have sold a singlet.  so we know that for f2.8 70mm on full frame, achromatic diopters are required for clean performance.  since full frame tends to use around an 85mm lens for anamorphic attachments the achro is almost 100% required for undegraded performance to the edges of the 44mm image circle.

     

    so, if you plan on upgrading to a bigger sensor, you'll be thankful to have kept the achro IMO

  5. DISCLAIMER: I apologize for posting a new topic on this, as I have also added this to the diopter thread. I didn't get any feedback and could use some because I want to sell one of these lenses and I can't decide which. 

    I hope someone can clear things up for me. Although I've read up a lot on anamorphics over the past months, I am very much a noob when it comes to using them properly, as getting everything you need to maintain such an expensive passion is very difficult where I live. 

    Knowing that the very coveted Tokina achromat is arguably the Holy Grail of anamorphic diopters, I was very happy to find one for cheap at a local shop (who knows how for long they probably had it).

    I did a very bare bones test to compare it to another lens that I bought a while back, a Tamron +0.5 singlet close-up. I know there may be a lot of things wrong with it, lighting changes, the objects don't have an adequate texture to them for test purposes, and so on, but I wanted very quickly to see if there is any obvious advantage (in terms of sharpness) to the Tokina over it's single element counterpart.

    Now, is it just me, or is there no huge difference between the images? I fail to see anything that would justify the huge price gap. I don't know if I should be dissapointed in the Tokina or impressed with the Tamron. I understand that maybe you can see what the Tokina is capable of by using better lenses, filming in different conditions, and so on. I don't know, what do you guys think? What am I doing wrong?

     

  6. [Comparison between Tokina +0.4 and Tamron +0.5 Diopters, unusual results]

    I hope someone can clear things up for me. Although I've read up a lot on anamorphics over the past months, I am very much a noob when it comes to using them properly, as getting everything you need to maintain such an expensive passion is very difficult where I live. 

    Knowing that the very coveted Tokina achromat is arguably the Holy Grail of anamorphic diopters, I was very happy to find one for cheap at a local shop (who knows how for long they probably had it).

    I did a very bare bones test to compare it to another lens that I bought a while back, a Tamron +0.5 singlet close-up. I know there may be a lot of things wrong with it, lighting changes, the objects don't have an adequate texture to them for test purposes, and so on, but I wanted very quickly to see if there is any obvious advantage (in terms of sharpness) to the Tokina over it's single element counterpart.

    Now, is it just me, or is there no huge difference between the images? I fail to see anything that would justify the huge price gap. I don't know if I should be dissapointed in the Tokina or impressed with the Tamron. I understand that maybe you can see what the Tokina is capable of by using better lenses, filming in different conditions, and so on. I don't know, what do you guys think? What am I doing wrong?

     

     

  7. Well I'm using a Canon T3i, so unless I'm dumber than I think I am about all of this.... I should be alright, correct? 

    I'm still looking around just in case, but I do want a smaller anamorphic. From the sound of it, this fits my needs perfectly so far.

    ​I don't think it covers the whole sensor on that camera, unfortunately.

  8. So if I were using it primarily with a Helios 44-2 for example, I should be fine, right?

    ​Yes, but it also depends on the camera. It has to be a small sensor one, like ken said. BMPCC, GH4, etc.

  9. From the tests I've seen on the web, it is quite soft and has blurry edges, but at least you can focus only with the taking lens. 

    For the price, you can't expect more, I guess.

  10. ​No, it is D.O. 16f.  I believe they have the same glasses.  I can call it's a micro lens, original focus around 0.5~1m, ratio is about 1.6x to 1.75x.  Even adjust to infinity, it is still shorter then Sankor's 5ft at minimum distance.   This lens is cheap, due to it cannot be used regularly.  But IMO, it is worthier than others.  So I sold my Sankor and Eiki 16f, which are the same lens.  Because it is short, so has the similar angle as 16H.  The least distortion is beyond my expectation.  Here are a comparison photo.

     

    ​Very interesting. Why do you say it cannot be used regularly? in your first post you said "No focusing necessary over 3m". Does that mean you can focus with your taking lens?

  11.  

    ​Double focus is always a pain. No diopter in the world will fix that, but it might help you knowing the ranges. Check the first post, if you haven't done it before! :)

     

    ​Thanks for the answers, you are fountain of knowledge!

    I bought the tamron close up lens (it is threaded) for about 60 euros (kind of steep, I guess). From my initial tests I'd say it improves the image a little bit on my sankor. Looks a little bit sharper, especially wide open.

    On a semi-related note (don't know if this has been discussed on this thread before): Has anyone had any experience with the minolta achromatic no. 0 diopter? It's really cheap and I believe it has a +0.94 diopter.

  12. ​If you have an Iscorama 36 (for which a 72mm filter is ideal), why worry about double focusing?

    With the Iscorama, both a +0.5 and +1 filter are useful. The +0.5 filter will give you a good focusing range for normal use, but for anything closer than like 3 feet, you'll want a +1 or stronger. Really a 0.5 is necessary unless you don't need to focus closer than 6 feet.

    I am not sure how much an achromat matters rather than a single element filter. My 0.5 B&W filter seems fine, and it is single-coated, single-element and dirt cheap.

    ​Well I don't have an Iscorama. Got a cheap Sankor 16F and it is a pain to handle, image quality so and so. I'd say that the sankor has a minimum focus distance of 5 feet without the diopter.

  13. Iinteresting.... looks like it's worth a try if the threads aren't borked to be lens-specific as the listing implies, but is rarely the case. Is it two-element or one-element?

    There are lots of 0.5 single-element diopters on eBay. How big is the difference? I'm using a B&W NL0.5 72mm diopter and the image seems fine with it. Not noticing any visible degradation or added CA with such a weak diopter strength. Is the Tokina 0.4 really worth that much extra money?

    Going to add a B&W NL1 to the mix because even the NL0.5 doesn't focus that close. Good build quality and strong threads, no idea if the optics are actually good except that it works well for what it is and 0.5 is a useful strength.

     

    ​It is definitely the thread version, not the bayonet specific to that lens. The description didn't say, but i think it's a single element. What I'd like to know is if it's worth the extra cash more than let's say a normal +1 diopter. Does it make double focusing any easier if you are limited to about 2m of maximum focus distance? 

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