valid

Don't think many disputed the quality of these lens types, but I suspect many had issues with having to deal with often heavy and long-sighted lumps 'o' gold. However your Tecnoir mounts do look like they address this mounting issue very nicely for dual focus.   The FM lens being optimized for the cinelux/ ultra-star types leads me to believe it was chosen in recognition of Schneider/ isco optics as well as capitalize on the flooded market of disused (therefore cheap) projection lenses for the reasons you mentioned.   I'd even go as far to say that because of 'Avatar' leading the real push that George Lucas started for worldwide digital projection, we now are in the position to buy $3-5k optics for stupidly low prices now. Some of these lenses are probably still warm from being torn out of a lovely family run 80 year old cinema to make way for upgraded digital projection for the next Pocahontas In Space movie.

Screen grabs from a short sci-fi film I'm directing.
 

 
http://alexeymarfin.com/blue-eyed-me-coming-soon/
 
Can you can tell apart which shots are real anamorphic shots and which are spherical + pseudo-anamorphic aesthetic done in post? ;-)
 
Any feedback welcome :-)

Looks awesome! Make sure to keep us updated on this project :)

Screen grabs from a short sci-fi film I'm directing.
 

 
http://alexeymarfin.com/blue-eyed-me-coming-soon/
 
Can you can tell apart which shots are real anamorphic shots and which are spherical + pseudo-anamorphic aesthetic done in post? ;-)
 
Any feedback welcome :-)

Thanks :-) Will keep you updated!
 
Yeah frischluft is great. Also just the default Defocus/ZDefocus nodes in Nuke does the same thing for oval iris. I also simulated subtle anamorphic lens breathing during a focus pull too (just by animating horizontal and vertical stretch).
 
PS Here's a purely in-camera shot (Kowa B&H with a 28mm taking lens) that i used for reference '>

Screen grabs from a short sci-fi film I'm directing.
 

 
http://alexeymarfin.com/blue-eyed-me-coming-soon/
 
Can you can tell apart which shots are real anamorphic shots and which are spherical + pseudo-anamorphic aesthetic done in post? ;-)
 
Any feedback welcome :-)

So I assume a seller packages a beautiful iscorama to survive the journey, then some dumb ass muppet in the depot opens it up to check it is what it's meant to be, then poorly repacks it then when it arrived broken, both you and the seller are left to sort it out!  
 
It angers me when customs are able to open items they clearly have no skills in handling.  I need to get some 'if tape seal is broken, check contents before signing for parcel' tape for DSO 

Bought a lens through that program once - no tracking updates, of course - and it was just left lying on the floor (!?) of the public corridor in my apartment building. And I was home all day, so no one even tried to deliver it. Luckily I found it and picked it up before someone else did, but still very strange.
 
Have avoided that service ever since.

I had recently 2 awful experiences as a buyer, with this quite new "shipping+taxes" option (or "Global Shipping Program") that eBay uses:
 
I bought the first item and eBay's shipping company had it for days in their storage place, without never contacting me for delivery. I tried to contact them, and I had to pay for the call €5 (~$6.5), as they charge €1.34 the call, then 0.36/min and they have you waiting for at least 10-12min, without finally accepting your call, with the excuse that the lines are too busy and that you'll have to call later again...
Finally, one day, they came to deliver, but without even ringing my bell, they put it (a signed-for shipment) inside my box...
 
The second one, they never delivered any parcel, but their tracking status indicates that they did delivered to my hands and that they've put my name as the person who received the parcel... When I opened a dispute on PayPal for this, Paypal in dt time, closed the case, with the excuse that they can't help on this and that I have to find a solution with the seller!... In any other similar case, if the seller had shipped via any other carrier, they could ask him to show them (to PayPal) the proof of delivery, asking this from the shipping carrier... If the shipping company couldn't prove that they had my real signature, then the money had to be returned to me. But as this new company is eBay's (so & PayPal's) business, they of course closed their eyes, as they can't blame their own company. SO, I lost $273.76...
 
I will NEVER-EVER buy any item from sellers that they are using this "Global Shipping Program" again! NEVER! I've found though that there are hundreds of others with similar, like mine, problems...
 
If you are selling on eBay and you want to avoid any negative feedback caused by similar cases, never use this option again please.
To be able to do so, please follow this next steps, to block this shipping option from your sales:
Your ebay>>account>>site preferences>>posting and packaging preferences>Offer the Global Shipping Programme, then on the right hand side of the screen change yes to NO and save changes.
 
By the way I have to say that, with this "Global Shipping Program", buyers are paying more on import taxes, than if they had to pay straight to their customs...
 
That's all from me.

Hi, I'm starting doing anamorphic photography and EOSHD has been great helping me understanding this technic. I'm shooting with a Nikon Df that have a 3:2 ratio. My anamorphic adapter is a Kowa Prominar 16-H 2x.  To find the aspect ratio, I took a photo at home to a circular box and squeezed the image until it turned circular. It gave me a ratio of 2,82:1, as you can see in this image https://www.dropbox.com/s/bmq13xv97syuzx5/DSC_7602_2%2C82.jpg?dl=0 I read an article somewhere that talked about a value of 2,66:1. I tried that but the box resulted a little ovalized https://www.dropbox.com/s/qxmxy9qtn9iokgi/DSC_7602_2%2C66.jpg?dl=0 Is my aspect ratio correct? I have this doubt because I can't find anywhere what's the best ratio when we are shooting in 3:2.  My first anamorphic images with a 2,82:1 ratio https://www.flickr.com/photos/96852153@N00/sets/72157649089398262/ Thank you, Nuno Boavida  

Yes but how many of those flares are CG, using John Knolls Plugin or other, the one thing you dont see is the heavy tube vignette, I saw a few flares in transformers, but cant be sure they aint CG either, not so easy to add cg to source with flares so they probably shoot it without and add them later. I assume the flares are not the result of the taking lens....

I'm in as I've said already, I like the test results, just a note:
when they made the first copies of their VM 1.5x anamorphic, I bought one and the results weren't so good. Hopefully, the second/recent/newest example that they made, was much better...
So, based on this experience, I'm not sure if in the (not far from now) future, they will make an even better copy of the FM too. And all of us who will buy the first examples will run to sell them so to buy the evolution of the first FM examples...
Just my thoughts ;)

They really need to sort out their test footage.  sod the red camera.  Just shoot some humans with a 550d if needs be!  a human face in the foreground tells 1 million stories

The original aperture is completely removed and in its place sits a very thin and precisely milled brass insert.  There are a number of other people doing similar things, but they just seem to go for the laser cut acrylic route and as such the actual ovals are never as perfect due to the cut always being a bit graggy.
 
Rather than modify the limited range of alternative focal lengths from the same era and source, I have developed a ultra high quality wide angle attachment (the FF38), which FF58 users can install on their lens to widen the fov to 38mm.  all of the lens character of their ff58 remains intact, but the fov is widened.  and as it happens the wide angle attachment improves sharpness.  Moderate barrel distortion is visible, but nothing too bad!
 
 

I'll chip in if I may...:)
 
I literally don't know which I prefer and I'm actually building these things.  The reason dso started was to add a degreee of dirtiness to the iscorama (which at the time i wanted more gragginess from, with the singla focus and sharpness left intact!).  The 1.5x oval was created to add to the look of the 'rama and give a 2x oval look, which also sharpening the helios marginally.  
 
A wide open helios 44 + iscorama is indeed a beautiful thing that will never quite be matched with an oval aperture alone - 58mm, f2 and a 1.5x widening of horizontal fov as well as the physicality of the big hunks of glass from the 'rama' is a hard thing to match with anything.  The ff58 does not deliver horizontal streaks so if this is important then the ff58 will not do what you need.
 
The benefits of the oval aperture is that you gain sharpness by a huge amount (since the aperture on a 2x oval is stopped down by around 1.5 stops), but you maintain some of the shallowness of an f2 lens due to the oval remaining the same height as the original f2 aperture.  Then keep single focus capability, and keep size down - particularly on a full frame sensor since 58mm is relatively wide and you'd need an 85mm taking lens on a full frame snesor if using an anamorphic.  end result is a very similar fov.  though the 85mm will look 'bigger'.
 
The new FF38 attachment is a nice addition to both the ff58 and the helios 44.  since it widens fov while actually sharpening the image quite drastically.  If you have the pixels to spare, a big sensor or speed booster, and enough light to cope with the 1.5 stops slower aperture due to the oval, and can afford to crop, the ff58(2xoval) + FF38 wide angle attachment will stand head and shoulders above the iscorama for 95% of image quality criteria while being a lot less of a financial and creative burdon - when i take the iscorama out it always causes worry which always seems to impact on workflow.
 
I'm still gonna grab a 'fm module' when they are available so I guess that says it all:)  you cant beat real anamorphic if it's really needed!

because the adapter for micro 4/3 has a nice area in the back you can put an oval apperture and vertical fishing line - then you just shoot as normal and swop the lenses over on the front of the adapter - I cant think of another system that does that , this simply  - thats why - it works well

you can get a very very good anamorphic effect using Pentax 110 lenses add an oval aperture in the micro 4/3 adapter back and a vertical piece of fishing line and then just shoot as normal - it looks great and you just swop out the Pentax lenses on the front of the adapter as all the gubbins is in the adapter , you have 18mm,24mm 50mm and 70mm lenses at f2.8 to play with
frame to 2.39 add black bars in post - and most people will never know...
cheap and looks nice!

Pass: Centascope


Although this is not a great test of sharpness per say - it was to see how it performed at f2 with and without diopters.Looked pretty decent to me when set to minimum focus. Very little image aberration considering it's simplistic and compact design.

The answer is:
Thanks. We will post some tests in a few days.

Good idea valid, I 've asked, let's wait and see.
Thank you

Hey comurit - next time you speak to the anamorphicshop guy, could you please ask him for a test video with a fast focus pull? All the tests he has so far are 20-30 seconds to focus from close to infinity. Could he do it in 4-5 seconds or something? Thanks! (and not just fast-forwarding the existing ones ;-) )
 
I want to see how the lens breathes, etc - I hope he's not avoiding the fast focus pulls for a reason

Great! hopefully they will show the mounting process with those lenses too (as they're not 70.6mm dia)

I already had a 72mm clamp floating around in the draw that came with a morphic lens from years back. Similar to the vid-Atlantic ones, basically a tin tube with rear 72mm thread and nylon screws, not at all Redstan quality but holds it well enough for testing with. As soon as the FM lens is in my hands, I'll probably throw that clamp in the river.

The thread is not a standard step ring gauge.  it's very close to 67mm.  I put mine on the lathe and took most of the thread off, then did the same with a step ring.  leaving a small amount of thread on both means you can push a 67mm-62mm step ring onto it using a bit of weight and two flat surfaces..  however you'll never get the ring off again unless you saw it off.  Hans_Punk knows about a special adaptor with the correct thread on it..  Maybe he can chime in.

My name is Cosimo Murgolo born in Italy on the 5 of september 1970, I am a flight attendant with a strong passion in music  video and travelling 
I am a happy family man of 5 kids and live by the lake Maggiore no far from Milan.
I started as video maker years ago, but I still  need to learn a lot, I am also involved into experimental electro music.
I play acoustic and electric guitar in the free time.
My favorite guitarists are  Robert Fripp , Jimi hendrix ecc ecc
I love anamorphic lens but I still have to learn a lot. I own a sankor 16d, an isco animex s8/2x and a schneider cinelux bought recently.
I am a happy owner of a 5Dmark iii which i bought last summer and I own different vintage prime lens.
Mine is just a hobby, but I would like to do some short movie and other stuff to earn some money.
I own a macbook pro  from 2009 where I struggle to edit my short video, I use AE , premiere pro, but i would like to use resolve da vinci.
At the moment I cannot afford a new computer so I have to wait and save some money.
I spend a lot of my time read and learn from this forum.
Thank you all.