animan
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Nikon D500
In: Cameras
ooh that looks interesting! i dont know anything about the "x00" line but seems to have been discontinued since 2009, sitting in the semipro bracket
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Also new silent AF lenses might indicate a shift to some better APSC bodies coming for video?
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Auto-ND makes this a godsend for Doc work. Fix the codec problems Sony and I will buy this!
nice feature but auto exposure pretty much always looks terrible doesnt it?!
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indeed I hear you, just wanted to play devils advocate, I think theres lots of video forms where it does work though, weddings or portrait videos, promos (focus pull to something with a logo for example) or interviews as you say
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Yes. f5.6/s35mm is what typically works for most films, so to go shallow, I don't get it
most of us aren't shooting films though!
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They're nice shots and I don't want this to sound mean but to me your NX1 shots just look low contrast - low dynamic range with the shadows lifted until they aren't true black (no detail, just grey, and no "punch"). Furthermore the colour looks 8-bit with a generic "film" LUT applied, and the in-focus details look overly sharp. Colour depth, dynamic range and strong codec are not what these images say to me. The XC10 has the latter 3 in abundance. It's a question of taste I agree, but to say the XC10 "sucks" in comparison to the NX1 is to dismiss dynamic range, colour depth, motion cadence, image integrity/robustness, camera use-ability, rolling shutter performance, and the huge benefit of using a camera that "just works."
I grade with scopes there is true detail in the black and my lenses were stopped down to f8 hence the sharpness. Also it was graded with LUTS. Impulz and delut's but I guess if the source was 8bit the colors will look 8 bit like the many other 8bit cameras like the a7 line. Plus even with a 10 bit camera you can only see those variation in colors on a 10 bit monitor. Everything is output to 8 bit color even from an 8bit source. Totally forgot to mention downscaling to 1080 from 4k gets you 444 color at 10 bit but lol ok copy. And I didn't say the xc10 sucks by comparison, I said it sucks in general. Specs wise it's very underpowered. They could have at least have allowed us interchangeable lenses but whatever. Would love to see your xc10 footage cuz the footage I've seen hasn't selled me on the camera at all.
the shots do seem to have some big lumps of pure black raised to pure dark grey
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The quality of 1080p had barely been made film-like before being cast aside for 4K and now manufacturers are racing to make 8K a reality, which is in the region of 36MP, before 2018.
It seems the megapixel race has truly come to filmmaking.
I think you miss the most important reason which is shutter speed is a huge part of the creative decision a photographer makes
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I'm flying a samsung nx1, with S lens. The camera by itself is heavy, with gimbal very heavy. For one handed use unpleasant.
I can imagine yes.. I think with a small camera (LX100, RX100 etc) you might have a different experience both with the functionality and practicality but havent tried myself so cant say for sure
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honestly, I think the gimbal, while sturdy, is just plain heavy.
ok! but i meant more to see how it affects performance, what lens/camera combo are you using? thanks
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So here is the long and short of it. The Beholder DS1 is heavy. It can get some very smooth shots, but you will be challenged to keep the shot on target for more than a very short while due to the weight. Additionally, I noticed something unexpected, certain movements can cause the unit to freak out. This results in a type of fast micro-jitters, that will appear as jerky image artifacting.
I wanted this unit to work smoothly. I do not know if this behavior is normal or if the unit is defective. But I can tell you normal handheld seems more pleasing to my eyes, despite being less smooth. Normal handheld just seems more organic.
any chance to compare with a light(er) camera?
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for smaller cameras if you dont mind not being able to flip out the screen to the left MS1 should be good.. probably best option if cost is an issue, many of the issues were solved since that review with the baseplate that lets you mount cameras off centre
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great thanks for the info!
do you think its a good strategy to use a camera a good bit under the weight capabilities of the gimbal then? Have you compared performance with LX100 and heavier cameras?
I was also thinking to go with a LX100 for this reason but was wondering if something with a flip screen might be easier for low/high shots (it seems its possible to flip the motor of the pilotfly around to the other side, or theres the Beholder DS1)
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according to newsshooter 'The screen is also highly reflective which makes working outdoors a little tough '
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I upgraded mine so it has a tooless setup. I can now balance the camera very quickly after much practice. What ever you choose tooless makes things much easier.
How did you do that?
Also if youre usually only using the LX100 does this help with setup time? Thanks
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Pilotfly H1+
In: Cameras
did anybody manage to successfully reverse the motor on the h1+ or h1? the information is a little sketchy, thanks!
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The gimbal is very well built
Hi Xavier,
Has the build quality improved? From these pictures it looks really awful, thanks!
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I think the GH4 colours are very nice, compared to GH3, not sure about GH2, with a big card you can run forever with the US model..
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It has the same problem that all the other one-handed gimbals have: too much bounce. Curious to see footage from the Nebula 4200 which (they claim) solves that problem.
i think using cameras a good bit under the advertised payload helps this, theres some good footage of small cameras on the nebula or came tv single and footage from ministurdyflight looks great although not many reviews around yet
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no mention of colour accuracy/brightness/performance in daylight/viewing angles in the review? this would be useful.. thanks
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IBIS at 4k?
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I'm not confusing the two, I'm saying that if you;re shooting log on 8bit cameras it should be in order to maintain the greatest dynamic range on your camera files, for post adjustment of contrast, Not colour.
Log or not, if your WB is too far away from the end result you're in trouble. If i want a teal grade I'd set wb to a lower kelvin number and increase the bias towards green/blue. if i want a warm grade I'll go the opposite way.
fair enough, but still, theres more to grading than saturation and colour temp.
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THIS!
Shoot log with your wb set up correctly and you dont need to do any grading at all! - just use your curves/levels to get to the contrast level which leaves the highlights unclipped, themids natural and the shadows not crushed. then boost saturation if required.
you guys are confusing colour grading and colour correction, the video may not need correction but grading is an aesthetic choice
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I still think before you invest anything first step is check activity monitor and see are your cores or RAM maxing out when PP stalls.. If so then a new HD wont help I guess, unfortunately technology changes a lot in 4 years!
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This is to do with the frequency (Hz) of the different screens I would say
Nikon D500
In: Cameras
Posted
IBIS in 1080, not bad!
' In Full HD or HD mode, the D500's electronic Vibration Reduction function*2 reduces the effects of camera shake in the horizontal, vertical and rotational directions during hand-held movie recording'