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  1. I guess I was wrong - the lens does not have an aperture ring... so it's of no use for me.
  2. Now this one sounds quite interesting as it's still big enough for when I upgrade to a speedbooster. There's none available for that little money so I had to buy one for at least 60€ or get one form overseas, pay extra shipping and taxes and end up with about the same amount, but it's affordable and it even has the aparture ring as far as I know. Maybe I got the crop factor stuff not completely right, but with a speedbooster, shouldn't it be back to about the same as on FF - instead of being even shorter and faster? I mean, on the G6 with just a basic adapter it's equivalent to 70-140 on
  3. Alright guys, thanks for your answers so far. As for stabilisation: I don't thinks stabilisation is a must as I'm using tripods in most cases. Also, thanks to NFC and wifi I can trigger the shutter from my smartphone so there won't be any shaking from that. Only on the portrait lens (and maybe the privat events lens) some sort of stabiliser was nice. Althought the Pentax 110 are good in price, I guess I should have mentioned before that those manual lenses should also have a aparture ring. That's kinda important to me. I don't like the idea of having to build a DIY fake aparture and stuff
  4. I hope I can get some good advice from you - at least I'm sure I'm at the right place here. Ever since the G6 came out I'm having an eye on it's price. Unfortunately rumour has it that it's not produced anymore and also price drop is stagnating. Because of that I'm thinking of getting it soon. If I had the money, I of course would go for the 14-140mm bundle as a start and later on buy one or two primes to complete the kit but 750€ for the kit is just more than I want/can affort. I was looking for more affordable alternatives for that lens but it seems there are none. So I thought why
  5. I got the idea from the fact that it records in 30 fps on a model sold in Germany and differing information by shops in price comparisons on the net. It seems I was wrong though and that it records 30 fps by standard, without the need to change PAL/NTFC settings. Regarding the 24 fps resolution: Well, don't most of you crop 24 fps video to 2,35:1 anyways, for that cinematic look? Of course it's not optimal, to be limited to that form factor by default but at least to me that isn't a real problem. As for my need of 30 fps in Germany: Well, it's simple, I'm only producing for the internet. The
  6. I was wondering if the new Samsung NX30 could be the better buy than the Panasonic G6. It has many nice features and even uncompressed HDMI out. It has a the bigger sensor which should make shallow depth of field a little more affordable and it's price should drop quite quickly to the level of the G6. Important to me: It seems to be region switchable and is capable of 30fps. That's something the G6 does not offer for us people in Germany. It's EVF might be better than that of the G6 and from what can be read about the picture quality, it's said to be good to perfect (not my words). It also
  7. What I would like to know even more than anything else regarding RAW-Video on the 600D is: What about the camera temperatures, ML is heating up the cam quite a lot already. So, for how long can you record in highest possible continues resolution RAW format until it gets too hot to continue?
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