Tito Ferradans

If I had to work with such big and heavy lens, I wouldn't think twice before cutting it up. Of course, I would feel more comfortable doing it if I didn't pay a lot for the lens.

Be careful too when close focusing, since it will change the stretch factor. This is a common report about these cases.

Check this one:

https://vimeo.com/43590845

You cut the lens in half? I'm already a fan! hahahaha :D

I already made a set of anamorphic cropmarks combining any kind of lens mix, 2.35, 2.66 and 3.56. :)

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/9rrjxkf6hrw7f2d/anamorphic-cropmarks_ML.rar

LA7200 pictures up!

Bolex sold to a member of EOSHD! :D

Besides being a regular member, I've already sold more than a few lenses in this forum and in DVXUser. Since I'm from Brazil, eBay isn't a good option for me, and people really don't dig into anamorphics here. Once again, I have more lenses than I can use, and decided to let them go. Check out the description, price and pictures below.

I only accept PayPal. Taxes and shipping are my responsibility. :)
If interested, send me a PM, or an email!
ferradans@gmail.com

1 - Panasonic LA7200 + Custom Front with 105mm thread + Redstan Clamp. (1.33x stretch, focus through)

I've modded this one hard, to fit every need. Now I'm moving towards LOMOs and would be sad to let this baby in the locker, gathering dust. I've machined a custom front for it, creating 105mm filter threads for attaching big diopters - which are somewhat hard to come across.

The glass is in perfect condition, no haze, fungus, scratches or chips this time. Rear thread is secured with Redstan's clamp, with 67mm threads, closest pairing possible with the taking lens. I'm including front and rear caps - not the original ones - and the original lens pouch.

As everyone already knows, it's focus through, allows you to rack focus on the taking lens and go extra wide-angle at the same time. Has some problems regarding corner sharpness, but I think it's awesome.

I'm including in this kit a custom-made filter holder for 4.5" diopters, and three of these: +0.5, +1 and +2, Tiffen, in perfect shape. This way, you won't need anything else in order to start shooting with this lens, even at the widest lenses and apertures. This size of glass is very hard to find, and this adapter doesn't even have a copy. Single unit!

US$1450 shipped
(LA7200 + redstan clamp + front clamp with 105mm threads + custom adapter 105mm to 4.5" + Diopter kit (+0.5, +1 and +2)

LA7200 photos

http://www.eoshd.com/comments/gallery/album/85-panasonic-ag-la7200-clamps/

Thanks man! Gotta find this SuperLube here in Brazil. :P

Absolutely no problem! The polishing and recoating was done only on the outside face of the front element, and that costed me $275, this price is multiplied by the number of faces they have to polish and recoat. The alignment and general repair was gonna cost $95, but he did it for free. He said the plastic body was so damaged that he could not guarantee it would keep it all in place, so, he didn't charge.

One important thing to keep in mind is that the recoating runs take a while because they can't do it just for one lens, it's an expensive process and they need a certain ammount of lenses before they do it. So, my lens just sat there for about a month because they didn't have enough lenses yet to do it.

I was testing it yesterday and it was a great job. It DOES have some serious damage that was impossible to repair, but it doesn't show up on the images produced (thank god!). The rear element has some bad scratches, and the body is awful, but everything looks amazing through the camera. hahahaha.

I'll try to post comparisons later. The "Before" images are here.

http://www.eoshd.com/comments/gallery/album/83-recoating-iscorama/

You can see there's a terrible haze around ALL light sources in the frame, or NEAR the frame. Shooting outside during the day was impossible, because the top portion of the frame would go almost white. Cloudy days were TRULY impossible. Flares were very scarce and thin.

Got a tip from a friend!

Kodak Retina TII/60 are 60mm diopters, single element, +0.25.

Pretty common on ebay, and cheap too. Take yours before they disappear! :)

From the Kodak Retina Reflex Manual :
The 135 mm. lenses can also focus on distances nearer than 14 ft.
For this purpose a TII/60 supplementary is used for close-ups between about 13 and 7 ft

So, back to half the original point: relubing the focus mechanism, any tips about what's a good thing to use? :)

I just got my Isco back from John at Focal Point Lens, and it's stiff - forgot to ask him to lube it. All other matters with the lens were solved (busted front thread, alignment, scratched front element), and now I can finally appreciate the magnificence of the lens.

Today I was able to test a Century adapter that's harder to find, the WS-13, which has focus adjustments like the ones we're thinking here. I got perfect focus, wide open at f/2.8 on a Mir (37mm), using a 5D3. No vignetting, just some heavy distortion around the edges.

LOMO +0.5 93mm for Squarefronts

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251304629176

LOMO +0.5 and +2 for Squarefronts

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290945205585

they don't seem to follow a standard!

Hmm, interesting. Sad to know it wasn't a solution. What anamorphic are you using?

Anyway, you can always turn green into a different color using Hue/Saturation controls, if that's the only green thing in the shot! :P

Hey everyone, thanks to Enny, I realised that I haven't explained the math behind the numbers on the diopters. Did that just now, on the first post. Be sure to check it, and correct me if something is messed up, or confusing! :)

Enny,

If you say the front measures 101mm you should get one as big as you can to cover as much glass as possible. I believe the front glass element is a bit smaller than 101, but you're in trouble! Covering the glass is essential to avoid (more) vignetting, so I'd suggest an 86mm diopter kit, one of the cheapest options:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280923300445

You just gotta find a way to attach it to the front of the lens. If you're saying that it already has an 82mm thread, then you should go with 82mm diopters. A cheap kit too.

By what you said in the message, you should be fine with a +1 and +2, for closer focus. I'll update the first post with feet measurements, but for now, the math for maximum focus is:

S = diopter strength (+0.5, +0.6, +1, +2, etc)

MaxFm = maximum focus distânce, measured here in METERS

MaxFm = 1 / (S)

or, for feet measures:

S = diopter strength (+0.5, +0.6, +1, +2, etc)

MaxFf = maximum focus distânce, measured here in FEET

MaxFf = (3.3 / S)

A +2 diopter maximum focus distance is about 1.5ft, and a +1 gets to 3ft.

Check the first post to get a better explanation about this math part. You'll never have any more trouble finding out which strength works best for you. :)

My personal opinion is that this green flare is not created by the nikkor. It's a stretched flare, and sphericals mostly produce round ones, like these.

http://i2.wp.com/ferradans.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/mg_1331.jpg

Of course, I might be wrong too. hahahaha :)

Have you tested a similar camera setup with a different taking lens?

username: richg101

to be more specific. :)

Dunkin donuts! HAHAHAHAH! Brilliant, specially if you're using mirror lenses. :P

Talk to Rich, here in this forum! He replied to me many times over the last months. I had already placed an order when they were taking them, so that might mean something... :P

Thanks rehawker!

Feel free to ask questions and contribute with the lens list! :)

I think LOMO's are only available as +1 and +1.2, at least the ones that were made for Foton-A...

I believe the flares will behave normally, straight lines, no interruptions. hehehe.

Same situation here! hahahah

Specially now, that I just got a pair of Iscomorphots!

Considering the light path from the outside world to the camera sensor, I'd say it's an oval outside with an oval hollow, option 1. :P

And why couldn't you ask your question in there, instead of creating a new thread? :P

Anyway, your question is very vague, I don't understand what you want to achieve with the diopter so I can point you a good option. You want ULTRA CLOSES, regular shots, improving image quality? focus below 2m?

For me, there is no alternative than grabbing the ones I can and get them shipped home. I would dare to say most anamorphic lenses in Brazil are placed inside my house - and I'm not kidding about it. hahahaha.

I've also made some good money selling back the lenses I wouldn't need, and buying whenever I get the chance. After a while you see it's possible to get some good deals.