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Julian

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Posts posted by Julian

  1. @rich: I knew someone from here must be bidding on it.. hehe.

     

    @Tony: thanks for your reply, I'll have to wait until it arrives I guess, hope it turns out to be good! According to the seller it's mechanically and optically in 'flawless' condition. Hope he's right about that (or he gets his ass kicked in an eBay dispute).

     

    It is a gamble indeed, but finding any small 1.5x anamorphic seems kinda impossible, unless you want to pay big money for a Bolex or you get extremely lucky.

  2. The Anamorphic buying frenzy hit me again :)

    I know it's not the smartest thing to buy something when you're not exactly aware of what it is.. But I couldn't let this one pass.

     

    I have a big ISCO Optic Ultrastar 1.7x, very sharp, but big... I also have a reasonable sized Kowa B&H 2x, but still I'd like something smaller and I'd prefer a 1.5x anamorphic. I've been looking for the lovely Bolex 8/19/1.5X but the prices are sky high.

     

    So I spotted this little boy on eBay and I just won the auction.

    It's sold as 'Anamorphot Optic 8mm for Bolex H16' in flawless condition.

     

    It definitely looks small, and it's 1.5x. Anybody recognises this lens?

     

    [attachment=411:Untitled.png]

     
  3. With my cheap ebay adapters, GH2 and Minolta MD glass I can focus beyond infinity... If I turn the lens all the way to infinity it's unsharp, but just before the sharpness is fine. Is it the same with your adapters or can't you get anything sharp at long distances at all?

  4. DP Review just posted a review, where they mentioned, that Metabones, themselves, has mentioned, that their autofocus is rather lousy. Considering this, I feel, maybe, Metabones should get rid of the electronic contact points on the adaptor, and shave off a few hundred dollars ($100s) off the price, and then, let this product his the shelves.

     

    What do you think?

    Electronics are also needed for IS support and to change the aperture on EF lenses.

     

    I would like them to make a 'dumb' EOS adapter as well (it would work perfect with Samyang for example). In fact they all ready make and sell 'dumb' adapters: there is a $399 Leica-R to NEX Speed Booster for example.

  5. 25mm is going to give you a 'tunnel view' if you use the whole 3,55:1 aspect ratio. Not sure how much of the image you would still be able to use without vignetting. I'll give it a try with my 28mm.

     

    I shot this on a GH2 with Minolta 35mm f/2.8, 50mm f/1.7 and 100mm f/2.5 and the Kowa B&H. The GH2 has actually a bit wider sensor than the GH3 and 35mm almost works without vignetting.

     

    http://vimeo.com/53787515

     

    Most of the beginning is shot with the 35mm, so is the end. Around 1:47 you can see some of the corners of the lens, because of the sun light reflecting inside the anamorphic.

  6. What are you looking for? Wide, normal, tele? Bright? Sharp?

     

    I'd say, experiment! You can put almost anything on the GH3 with adapters. Buy some lenses on eBay for cheap, see what is the widest focal length possible (i'd say some 35mm's will work). Keep the ones you like, loose the ones you don't..

     

    The Helios will do fine. Personally I'd want to have something wider as well. 40mm Hexar f/1.8 is popular and small. You could also try a brighter 50/58mm. I like my Minolta 58mm f/1.4 on my Kowa.

  7. What makes you say that may I ask?...do you not feel the lack of oss would be a major issue?

    For photography I wouldn't want to miss autofocus.

     

    It depends on your filming style. But I'd prefer working with a monopod/tripod/dolly/slider/steady-cam, like you say. You're probably using more then one lens, so either they have to be all OSS or you use some other kind of stabilisation.

     

    Also hand held 35mm should be okay. Not for static shots during a ceremony... but during the party a bit of shake isn't the end of the world.

  8. That's a pointless comparison. Exposure lock is a simple software feature, most $100 point and shoot camera's can do it. Plenty of smartphone apps can enable it in cameraphones.

     

    The fact that most dslrs have moire in video mode is much more complex and not easy to fix (unless you make a camera that is aimed at movie instead of photography). It's hardware related. Exposure Lock isn't.

     

    There aren't many arguments to have no exposure lock. They don't have to protect anything in their line up. It is probably not there because of most users don't care. Although it is a bit weird since there is something like ProTune.

     

    Anyway, the whole ProTune thing shows that GoPro doesn't mind adding functionality to and end of life product. Exposure lock is a very small upgrade compared to ProTune. Both in functionality and and effort required to add it.

     

    and you can't agree that there may be a reason they don't/can't/wont add it?

     

    you ASSUME it's a possibility.  just as we ASSUME each new Canon won't suffer from moire, yet it does.

  9. Geez, why so offensive about a little feature request. 

     

    It is not a bug, it is just a very simple software feature that is not there and should be pretty easy to add.

    Just like a smartphone, the standard camera app doesn't have exposure lock most of the times. Many 3rd party apps do.

     

    Most GoPro users won't care for exposure lock or don't even know what it is. They just want to press a button and end up with a good looking video. Which is what the GoPro does.

     

    But if you want to mix GoPro video with your dslr footage it would be nice to be able to lock the exposure. That's all what's being asked for here.

     

    With adding exposure lock GoPro is not going to cannibalize any of their own products, it would just make the product better and they'd probably sell more of them. To me for example...

  10. Indeed, it's funny. I don't get all the confusion either. It is really simple. If you don't understand it, just look at the various tests. You'll see how it works and you'll see it actually does everything it promises. There's not even math involved. On aps-c camera's every lens will give you the same image as it would on a fullframe-camera (same fov, same dof) and you get an extra stop of light. Thats all...

     

    Anyway, let the whiners whine. I don't think people will be able to spot the use of a Speed Booster in final results. I'll be extremely happy with mine.

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