lmackreath

51 minutes ago, Mark Romero 2 said:

Thanks for the heads up.

I don't know if that is "normal" behavior or not since I have never used the S&Q mode, but I thank you for bringing it up in case I ever do use S&Q, it gives me something to look out for.

If that is the way it is supposed to work (i.e., keep mp4 mode after using S&Q), I would definitely suggest to set up one of your custom slots for your most common .mov settings). 

Sorry that isn't a great answer and if I have time I will try out my S5 later today and see if mine does that too. 

thanks - the odd thing is is that it doesnt happen all the time - which makes me think its a bug. the natural behaviour to me is that either dial should keep its own setting - so there is no reason why switching to s&q and back again should knock out the .mov setting. i only realised it did it when i imported my footage and x amount of files had changed from .mov to .mp4 which was annoying!

does anyone have the issue on the s5 that means it keeps reverting the movie mode back to mp4 format?

my main movie dial is set to .mov, the problem is if I then mov the dial to S&Q  - that changes the format for slow footage to mp4 - which i understand. the problem is sometimes, not always - when I then switch back to movie mode dial it then keeps the mp4 format and screws up my settings - rather than reverting back to my .mov 4k setting?? anyone else seen this?

Hi all! I have a dilemma in terms of what lens to get next, probably for weddings mostly.

I already have the 12-35 2.8, the Leica 42.5 1.2 and the sigma 16mm 1.4. i am wondering do i need a fast 25mm in my arsenal for the gap between the 16mm and the 35mm? something like the Olympus pro 25mm 1.2? - or do i need to look more for the longer end to cover that off - like with the 35-100 2.8 or even the Olympus 12-100 f4? - or again go just for a fast long prime like the Samyang 85,mm 1.4? 

I suppose i am worried about the long shots for the ceremony etc etc - but also concerned i don't have a fast 25mm currently??

Any help would be greatly appreciated

21 minutes ago, Samin said:

So in order to do change it every time we should turn the camera off and on again?

No its not that extreme. If you want to change it you can go into the stabilser options in the menu and the focal length settings are in their. The annoying thing is that even if you choose not to change the focal setting the camera will ask you to confirm the setting each time you turn it on..a possible future firmware update would be great to remove this..

Ok received the Zhongyi lens turbo yesterday along with a normal nikon to m43 dumb adapter to use with the nikon sigma 18-35 with the GH5.

First impressions - No issues I can see at all with Vignetting and if it is there it is not noticeable, at the wide end with the Zhongyi which is around 13mm after conversion and it seems fine.

In terms of image quality I am finding it hard to see any noticeable difference between the image out of the Sigma through the dumb adapter or the Zhongyi which is great news to me. I shot some stuff in doors and saw comparable quality in terms of sharpness and resolution throughout. The zhongyi might be more prone to flaring when pointed at a light source but that is avoidable..

In terms of the IBIS and focal settings you have to input every time you turn the camera on. I think you pretty much have to stick to the focal length setting that relates to the focal length that you are going to use on the lens. So if you set it at 18mm, shoot at 18mm and you will get good stabilisation. if you set it at 18mm and then zoom in at 35 you get strange warping effects and issues. there is a delay from when panning to when the sensor \stabilisation recognises the pan and then catches up. if i set the focal length in cam to 35 and shoot at 35 again this looks great and stable, but if i then choose to go to 18mm i get the same issue, strange warping effects and delayed panning.

The issue is the focal length setting in camera can only be changed when you are not recording. this means you cannot while filming both change your lens focal length and the in camera focal length setting. You basically have to choose what focal length you will be shooting at before you start recording and stick to it unless you want some adverse effects....

If you had to stick with one setting I would say you get better results going with the widest setting, so for the sigma you can set it to 18 and get great results at 18 and then the performance gets worse the more you zoom in. I think this option is better than setting the focal length to 35 which then only gives you great results at the far end, and then degradation the more and more you zoom out.

all in all in terms of the Zhongyi...I would not hesitate to recommend it as a very cheap alternative to the speed booster.

12 hours ago, ntblowz said:

This only works for Sony Alpha and not FS cameras, I tried and doesn't work, only metabones works on FS5/FS7

do not know what you mean? I am talking about the panasonic gh5

19 minutes ago, Fritz Pierre said:

The camera does not care whether it's a zoom or not....so if you're shooting at say 24mm on the Sigma, you calculate at 24 plus crop change on the booster and set that...if you Google this info, there is a DVXUser thread that explains the GH5 used in conjunction with a zoom and booster....but in a nutshell, you do not calculate the M4/3 crop....a 35mm lens is always a 35mm lens....if however you add a speedbooster at say a .64 crop, it changes the FOV of the lens...if you're using your zoom at 35 mm you'll set the focal length for IBIS at 22.4 with a .64 crop booster...35 x .64 = 22.4mm

Thanks...ideally though i dont want to have to go in and change this focal setting everytime i choose to zoom in or out?..is there not an optimal setting or range to suite any focal range on the lens?

Anyone try this adapter on a gh5?

yes thats what I meant thanks for claryfying..can I ask what setting you put it in for the focal range when you turn the camera on seeing as its a zoom lens?

3 hours ago, funkyou86 said:

 

Most of the representative stuff is still in post production but here are few examples:

Shot on Lens Turbo v. II + 18-35 + 85mm: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYm-b4QR-is
Shot on Lens Turbo v. II + 18-35 + Pentax 50mm https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxdJX06BP3E

Some screengrabs of the 4:3 anamorphic mode with 18-35: http://blog.presstige.sk/post/163559806830/yesterday-we-were-on-field-shooting-with-an 

lovely stuff!...one question...do you have to enter the focal length on the GH5 everytime you turn it on with the lens turbo on?

18 minutes ago, funkyou86 said:

You're safe with lens turbo, I have been using it on my GH4, now on my GH5 with Sigma 18-35 and has no vignetting in 16:9 or 4:3 mode. 

Go for it, overpriced speedboosters can do us a favour.

great to hear!...can you show me some example videos?

i suppose the question now is...do i want the tank that is the sigma 18-35 with adapter on my gh5 compared to my nice neat and small native lenses? Is the IQ of the Sigma and Low light opportunities that the lens turbo offers worth it?

Thanks again for all your responses...

If anyone has any test footage with this combo would be keen to see it.. especially how good\bad the zhongyi lens turbo is compared to the metabones

3 minutes ago, anonim said:

As I already wrote - 18-35 has comfortable zone, I've say to 1.38-1.4 crop (I tested it when worked with 18-35 with BMPCC speedbooster on m43 bodies and had to enlarge ratio because of vigneting). XL make 1.28 crop factor and from my experience it is out of being safe, but tastes are different ("said devil and sit down into nettles" as said proverb in my locals

(And... I vote not to letting go all of your native lenses in favor to new love. if you have them, keep at least 15 and 42.5 mm 1.7... my 2 cents although I'm not fan of autofocus lenses.)

Thanks!..if I can get a good enough price for the 12-35 f2.8 i will keep the 25mm and 42.5!

Thanks for your replies!

this guy tried the sigma 18-35 gh5 with speedbooster XL and still had no vignetting issues?

this is what i have been told eslwhere

"I think it is only the Lens turbo failing. The Sigma 18-35 is designed to cover a Nikon DX sensor with a diagonal of 28.4mm. 28.4*0.726=20.6 which is still larger than the GH5's 19.9mm with 16:9 crop. The actual image circle of the lens at 18mm seems to be around 33mm, so an ideal focal reducer would produce a circle of 24mm. I measured only 19.2mm through the lens turbo."

Just now, anonim said:

Slightly bigger crop factor of Zhongyi II is your friend It has crop factor lowering to 0.726 so you are pretty inside safe margin even with 18-35.

Personally I used Zhongyi with GH2 witch has multiaspect ratio crop smaller than GH5 - of 1.86 - and there was no problem with full frame lenses, so you should no worry at all with Sigma Art full frame lenses.

Is this true? I know the Zhongyi was safe on the GH4 in 4k because of the extra crop but I have been told the sigma 18-35 on the GH5 with the Zhongyi is a total no go because there is no extra 4k crop on the gh5?

On 10/11/2017 at 9:40 AM, Terry Lee said:

I'm in a dilemma and need opinions here........ I'm thinking of replacing my Sigma 18-35mm + speed booster XL with Voigtlander 17.5mm & 25mm.....

I find the Sigma 18-35mm very "digital", cold and lifeless........... While my nikkor 50mm 1.2 produces pleasing and organic images to me......

BTW, I first found @jonpais video on youtube, which lead me to this forum. And also got introduced to leeming lut through his youtube video. 

i will buy the sigma and speedbooster off you...

I am having the same issue...I have the lumix 12-35 f2.8, lumix 42.5 1.7 and lumix 25. 1.7 Obviously all great lenses, autofocus, stabilisation blah blah blah and pretty much all focal ranges covered but the image is very clinical...

I was actually looking at going towards the sigma 18-35 1.8 speedbooster route to get a more organic image, and as importantly get more light into that gh5!

looking to sell all three lenses...what would peoples recommendations be to replace? Run and gun shooter, also does weddings..need at least coverage from 12 - 35 and at least 1.4 aperture throughout..

Morning all. I have a GH5 and a bunch of native lenses and am looking at more options such as the Sigma 18-35 1.8, Sigma Art 24 1.4 and Sigma 17-50 F.28

I am confused about vignetting issues with the Zhongyi? I cannot afford going down the metabones route and it seems the lens turbo is a pretty decent alternative. What I need to know though because its made for full frame lenses what lens will and wont work on it with the GH5?

I have been told using it with the sigma 18-35 is a total no go as thats an aps-c lens so expect heavy vignetting? has someone got real world examples of this?

What about the Sigma 24 1.4 art lens? That is a full frame lens so would that be ok?

Anyone with any experiences of the Zhongyi on a GH5 and what lenses they have would be greatly appreciated.

53 minutes ago, Oliver Daniel said:

 

I actually think the 1080p 50/60p 10bit mode is better than the 4k 50/60p mode. The extra resolution in 4k isn't significant enough. 

better in what sense? this is the all-i we are talking about? I do love the extra crop you get in ex-tel mode in 1080p compared to 4k...but again i think i would miss that extra wiggle room for reframing, cropping and stabilsation in post that 4k gives you...

6 hours ago, deezid said:

Using V-Log and planning to use HLG, so I need 10 bit.

fair enough, it wasnt a moan...just interested...vlog is pretty bad in 8 bit. As much as the candence of 1080p all-i interests me i cant seem myself sacrificing the 4k resolution and options that that brings with it like post stabilsation and cropping..

so whats peoples thoughts? resolution over motion cadence and colour? 200mb 1080p 60p 10 bit all intra v 4k 8 bit 150mb 60p long gop?

14 hours ago, deezid said:

Already installed.
1080p60 All-I 200 Mbit 10 Bit will be my GoTo for slowmo from now on. The details and noise structure are insane considering it's only HD video. Especially after Nnedi3 upscaling. It basically looks like 4k. Am impressed.

 

Seems like sharpening at -5 is completely disabled? Still searching for sharpening halos... That would be amazing!

What would make you choose this over the 4k 60p?..does that extra 50mb and all intra make that much difference to the footage? I cant see myself using 1080p intra when i have the 4k 60p option....

11 minutes ago, Vesku said:

I mean if the image has no blacks the feeling is foggy and there is an urgent need to check eyes or wipe glasses.

I assume you are being sarcastic and are saying the image is a bit faded or washed out for your liking?

25 minutes ago, Vesku said:

@lmackreath

Was there lots of fog or smoke when you shooted these clips? Air pollution is an issue in many cities today.

?