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If you're going to get an ARRI phone, why wouldn't you get one with a built-in gimbal?

I envy the Ronin 4D for that.

My old Canon T2i has stopped remembering the date and time if the battery is removed. It Turns out there is a hidden internal backup rechargeable “button” battery, not mentioned in the manual. Luckily it is accessible, as seen here: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Canon+EOS+Rebel+T2i+Clock+Battery+Replacement/139543 The battery is a Seiko MS614SE, not to be found in Canon’s support pages. After some effort I found a supplier that ships it in the USA: https://eu.mouser.com/en/ProductDetail/Seiko-Instruments-Micro-Energy/MS614SE?qs=vrQyzjTsotmt1bmGskqEPQ%3D%3D I will see if the new button battery fixes the problem. There may be more to it. There is also a similar thing going on with Fuji cameras. Starting earlier this year, my X-T3 will reset & lose my settings & the date If the camera is not turned off before removing the battery. There is a YouTube about it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vOv-xjUtzw In the X-T3, I do not see an access to a button battery like there is in the Canon T2i.

If your use case is with C mount Super 16 lenses, "a bunch of lenses" might fit in a coat pocket. The tripod can also be an insanely light tripod or even something like a Manfrotto MP-3.

More here, there and also over there to include the new 200mm & 500mm teleconverters. E. ;- )

This highly-cherry-picked reel appeared in my feed. The image quality looks pretty impressive, so when the stars align the potential images from this thing are very nice. I guess the question for me is how many situations would the ILS be the right camera choice for? For example if you're going to pack a bunch of lenses, a tripod, and rig it up with filters, then go somewhere to shoot, setup your gear and potentially direct the scene in front of the camera, using a larger and more capable camera wouldn't make much difference to the logistics but could give advantages in DR and usability etc. For example, the ILS body is roughly 90mm x 60mm x 45mm, very similar to the Lumix GM1 which is 100mm x 55mm x 30mm. Small for sure, but by the time you add all the lenses and all the rigging, it's not like your camera bag is that much lighter. Does anyone know what the stabilisation is like with third-party lenses? Like, is it the same as the normal GoPros with their own wide lenses? or is it poor / hit-n-miss?

If it makes you feel better at all, nearly every Ronin 4D that was ever made is convinced that it is currently 1970. 😅

Guess they figured the RED camera went over so well that they should make one themselves! 🤣

GoPro ILS vs BMPCC OG... not a completely scientific test, but lots of shots in different scenes, so a good real-world comparison.

Thinking of it as a Super-16 FILM camera represents an incredible opportunity when combined with the high-resolution sensor - zooming in post. My experiments with emulating S16 film showed that even a moderate amount of blur applied in post hides a huge amount of detail in the image. This means you can crop into the source image significantly and the blur will hide it. For example: If you were to put a 12mm lens on it, then you'd get a ~35mm FOV at 6K, which you then blur. If you were to put a 12mm lens on it, then crop 2x you'd get a ~70mm FOV at 3K, which you then blur and the blur hides the zoom in post. If you were to put a 12mm lens on it, then crop 3x you'd get a ~100mm FOV at 2K, which you then blur and the blur hides the zoom in post. Depending on how much blur you applied (if you were going for a vintage 16mm look or a more modern 16mm stock emulation) I suspect you could zoom up to 4-6x in post before the digital nasties started being visible through the emulation. I don't know what kind of digital zoom the camera offers, but if it allows it then you could frame in-camera and not be throwing away bitrate when you crop in post. This gives two advantages: 1) It turns any prime into a zoom, perhaps even a 4-5x zoom - much more than the 2-3x fast zooms like 18-35 etc 2) if you crop in post then you can apply additional stabilisation, making it feel a lot larger than the tiny camera it is I suspect that mostly this advice will fall on deaf ears, as people are drastically afraid of softening their images, like they'll be punished in the afterlife for it. When I saw Goodfellas in the cinema on 35mm film projection, it looked like somewhere between 720p and SD - and that was a 35mm feature film!! The amount of blur to accurately reproduce even a semi-ballpark 16mm film emulation is beyond most modern thinking, but if you can wrap your head around the concept then the ILS can become a drastically useful camera.