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35mm Taking Lens for Kowa 8Z


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The Canon FD 35mm f2 is a safe bet as well as the old Nikon if you like the Nikon look (which you can also get in the 1.4 version but it's over your budget and for my experience I don't think it's anyway worth the extra price.  


Check out a clip I once shot on the GH2 with the FD 50mm and the 8Z for reference:



"Since I will use it mainly for anamorphic shooting, It doesn't have to be super fast" - why do you say that? with the 8Z you're still sharp on f1.4 (the 50mm version).

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Thank you for this. I've just bought a Carl Zeiss 35mm f2.8 Flektogon in m42 mount thanks to Andy Lee. It cost me £55. If I like the lens, my plan is to buy a speed booster (not Metabone's) for it.


I will have a look at the canon lens you've suggested. I have a couple of Nikon primes that I like. I will have sell two of them unfortunately.


What I really meant by the super-fast remark is that I don't usually need fast lens because of the way that I use my camera. As a PhD student and being in the UK, I hardly go outside for shooting and when I do, I wait for a good weather :) On a final note about 8Z, do you use any kind of diopter or have you seen any benefit to it?


BTW, I really liked the shot at 58. Did you stabilise some of the shots, the one at 33 for example. I am trying to learn how I can stabilise a handheld anamorphic footage. When I try to do that digitally, it goes weird.

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The Zeiss is probably a safe bet as well...and regarding the FD's - i'm not sure if they made a speed booster for them yet, but it's definitely a good argument for investing in a lens. On the other hand, if you'll get the 35mm wider with the booster it will probably start to vignette when the 8Z is on, so i'm not sure how helpful it will be there. 


Regarding the stabilisation - the ones at sec 33 is indeed a bit ugly but i wanted to use this shot so just did. In this case the simple fcp7 wrap stabiliser - I believe i could get it done better with AE or something else like lock and load plug in.


anyway, best thing is to use a good stabiliser, not like the one I had and to keep as less as possible shakiness for post - where you can usually make no miracles, especially when having motion blur in the shot.


Shooting originally with higher shutter speed can help a bit in that regard but again, you have to find a way to stabilise the camera.

I believe you can find a nice small rig for a reasonable price for that compact GX7...

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No, the speed booster remark was for the Zeiss lens. However, the speed booster I was referring to was RJ Lens Turbo and its Canon FD version is available already. The EF version is not out I think.


My problem with the stabiliser is that, I think, because I play with the transform or distort to get the right aspect ratio, that affects the digital stabiliser. I was thinking about exporting the footage as Pro Res and bring it back, stabilise and re-export. I need to test this.


Actually, I've found a really good cage and rig for a BMPCC but the GX7 is 5mm taller in height. Otherwise, it was a perfect match.


Do you have any experience with the diopters with 8Z?

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I didn't mean a rig but a stabiliser like a small glide-cam kind of thing.


Cool they made the canon FD speed booster. The FD's are really good and a great bonus when having a MFT mount. 


About diopters - all the extrem close ups in the clip were shot with hand held diopters. you can get good results already with a simple cheap kit for a start (+1,+2,+4) if you need +3 you add 1+2 but that's already extrem with the Kowa, which has already a good minimum focus as is.. I wouldn't spend too much on expensive diopters when you're on a limited budget. 


About the workflow for stabilising - your idea sounds like the way to go and you might find also other solutions. Every editing program has some different workflow when it comes to anamorphic material...it's a try and error process. 

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