noone

Thanks for posting Andrew and great work by Dave Dugdale.

I think Dave seems like the ideal candidate for the Live View grading App for the Sony.     It is the only App I have (for my garden variety a7) and it has not crashed (yet).      Not perfect as I can not use magnification or playback in the App but allows literally years worth of colour combinations in camera.

He is probably right about buying the a7s (and GH4), at my early novice level, I should just stick to my A7 for a year or two before upgrading for video (if at all).

Anyway, that was great.

EDIT    Would there be the same issue with AF with A mount lenses and an LA-EA4 adapter?

Why call him the source anymore?

he has his website clearly indicated and in the about us on that site happily mentions his name and that he is "well known as the third assistant director on Iron man II".

Oh well lots more traffic to his website than otherwise.

Hope this all comes true for Olympus users.    (Sony fans should hope so too since Sony is the biggest shareholder in Olympus).

So is it possible the silver EM-1 has 4k and the Black does not?? Someone suggested this on DPR and it actually makes sense as there could be some internal physical changes.

That would be a complete different model to me though.

Or could it be that Olympus is trying to hunt down the sources of various leaks?

its true they did scrap all the f2.8 stuff the filmed Shane Hurlbut the DOP on the film says so on his web page ,

it was just too narrow depth of field and they had massive issues pulling focus on the actors at f2.8 on the Canon 5D.

 

Shane says they had to reshoot it all at f5,6 so they had enough focus depth to work with....

 

dont forget this was 4 years ago the they pioneered the Canon 5D for use on a big movie they had to make all the rigs and kit themselves as it did not all exist like it does now , and they did have focus issues , there are soft scenes in the final film .

 

Shane now recomends you shoot narative stuff on the 5D at f5.6 or below to make sure you get actors faces all in focus.

its true they did scrap all the f2.8 stuff the filmed Shane Hurlbut the DOP on the film says so on his web page ,

it was just too narrow depth of field and they had massive issues pulling focus on the actors at f2.8 on the Canon 5D.

 

Shane says they had to reshoot it all at f5,6 so they had enough focus depth to work with....

 

dont forget this was 4 years ago the they pioneered the Canon 5D for use on a big movie they had to make all the rigs and kit themselves as it did not all exist like it does now , and they did have focus issues , there are soft scenes in the final film .

 

Shane now recomends you shoot narative stuff on the 5D at f5.6 or below to make sure you get actors faces all in focus.

Makes sense.

With my A7 and 85mm lens I just used it on the weekend at 5.6 and even that is fairly thin depth of field, at least fairly close in.

I think people forget that with full frame cameras 5.6 is similar in terms of dof to 2.8 with m4/3 cameras like the GH4 and f4 for APSC..

Oh and another lens to try with digital zoom (for both stills and video) on the A7 cameras is the m4/3 Olympus 15mm f8 Body cap lens.

FF on the A7 you have to use about 1.8x clearzoom to avoid vignetting and about 1.3 times in APSC mode.

I actually think the lens is BETTER used this way on the A7 (and A7R and A7S most likely) than on my GX7.

It is a low quality lens but still CAN be ok and very very small and fun to use.    The adapter is very thin (and sharp to touch) and cheap but the lens has little control on any camera (including M4/3) and relies on DOF.      F8 on FF is ample DOF though.

given it is a $50 lens, it might be worthwhile and more so if you have both a M4/3 camera and an A7 series camera.

Digital clearzoom on the Sony A7 cameras is great.      Allows many different things.

I have my A7 set to use it on the fly with the down button of the four way buttons to engage it, the WB button to zoom in and the drive button to zoom back out.

It means you can use fast primes to zoom while filming (unlike my GX7 which has a lossless teleconverter for video that you have to stop shooting to switch to and from).

It also means you can dial in a little digital zoom and use APSC E mount lenses FF for video.     That means a lens like the 50 1.8 OSS lens can be used FF for video stabilized (and at a fraction the price of the Zeiss 55 1.8 for about the same angle of view).    At wider apertures the cheaper lens might be sharper too.

You can even use full digital zoom (variable out to 4x) though beyond 2x and maybe a little less it does show as a bit lossy.

EDIT    this was a lame test I did a while ago using the Clearzoom to zoom in using my normal A7 in both FF and APSC modes (A7s will come later for me) and a 50 1.8 Nikon lens at 5.6.

Hello

 

I recently bought a Sony a7s camera. However, i dont have any lens for it yet and im not sure wich one to buy. Therefor im asking you guys if you could recommend some lenses in the price range of around 550 Euro.

 

 

Best regards

The A7 series cameras work well with just about any lens that can be mounted except wide angle rangefinder lenses wider than something like 24/28mm.

What do you want to do?   Wide angle? telephoto?   normal?     Do you like primes or zooms?

Canon FD lenses are a fairly safe bet and you could get a couple of L lenses maybe for your money (or at least an L zoom and non L prime or two).

Maybe a couple of cine Rokinon/Samyang lenses?

Plenty of other choices.    Nikon AI/AIS lenses are also great bang for buck.

The only two things that seem "certain" (99%) on that page are 24.3 MP FF sensor and tilting LCD.     Everything else is a definite maybe.

It would be nice if it does have 4k ETC but that part (I'm not sure) must put some doubt in it.

Not too long to wait and see just what it will have.

My normal A7 has the same (4x) zoom for video for checking focus both recording in the Movie mode or any other so that has improved for the A7s in other modes then.      One thing though I cant use the Live View grading APP if not in movie mode and I assume the same applies for the A7s.

I look forward to what the next round of "a7" cameras are going to be like.      A8s, A8R and A8???    (not that I need or can justify them).

)

Sony: Just some new lenses. If the FS700 II is true then we'll probably see it at IBC.

And an E mount phone camera (30p only)

plus Phone camera with fixed lens that does 60p

http://***URL removed***/articles/1313222874/sony-introduces-qx1-with-aps-c-sensor-and-e-mount-for-smartphones?utm_campaign=internal-link&utm_source=mainmenu&utm_medium=text&ref=mainmenu

My extremely amateur attempt at showing the LiveView grading App.     Just a few of the preset selections

.

Hi there, nice to see the difference. I was thinking of buying this application. It seems that this "Silky" profile delivers a more flat image.

Have you tried colour grading the samples to see in practise the difference using this "Silky" flat image?

Does it hold better?

 

 

Second question: Also, have you tried actually grading in camera and getting good results?

Although doing it in post is always safer...I wander if it can deliver decent results.

 

Thank you.

I think the Live View grading App is the best $10 spent!

I am slowly learning video but the extra control over colours in camera for video is great.       Sony should include this free on all their cameras with even semi-decent video.       Especially the lower end cameras that most buyers would hardly ever (if ever) do much in post.

Might take me a while to get the best settings for things right but will just be a lot better for instance shooting live bands in a pub that I shoot regularly with the same lighting.          I like the look from the Cinema group- Velvety so far best of the 12 presets I think but might take me years to find what I like the most.

I will try and make a short video using/comparing some of the presets in the next few days (unless someone who knows what they are doing wants to do it)

So I've been walking around in some of the many vintage stores around NYC and found a couple of interesting (hopefully) lenses. I haven't bought anything yet because I'm a complete newbie when it comes to the usage of vintage glass on new digital cameras.

 

So I own a BMPCC, and my question are as follows;

 

1. Are any of the lenses (posted below) interesting?

 

2. If not, they're pretty cheap so would it be wort it to buy them and maybe experiment with cracking glass for light leaks, etc?

 

3. What kind of adapter etc would I need?

 

4. Let me know if you have some other information on how to go about for shooting cheap inexpensive vintage on the BMPCC.

 

Thanks in advance!!!

 

Here's the pics ; 

http://imgur.com/a/SOPsX

Some of them MIGHT be ok.     Adapter would depend on the mount of the lens.    The adapters would be cheap on EBAY (but still should cost more than some of those lenses).

The only thing in that lot I would want though is the 3x macro converter.     A very useful thing (for stills anyway and maybe for video).    With the right lens it can give you variable macro far greater than 1:1 if you reverse a short lens onto it and a 3x teleconverter as well at the other end.      Be hard to use for video I think and there are better ones (a 2x macro converter would be better) but if it is cheap enough (and more if you can use it for stills too) it might be worth getting.

Sony might lose a few (ok lots of) sales from the higher camera but then again, they might more than make up for it with the increased number of F5 sales (and maybe at a price increase too)??

I have never thought about time lapse before and I know its not the same but this got me playing around with the time lapse in the GX7.

It seems that the GX7 is stabilized using time lapse (if stabilization is turned on).     Might be fun to try walking around.

Thanks for the thread.    very interesting in itself too..

The a7 does not have it as sold but there is an app from Sony for $9.99.      Never thought much about buying apps but now am considering this one (as well as the Live view grading one, also for $9.99) they seem to be the dearest ones though.

Anyone using the Sony Live view grading app in any A7 series camera (or A6000 ETC)?

https://www.playmemoriescameraapps.com/portal/usbdetail.php?eid=IS9104-NPIA09014_00-000010

No longer a "complete" set as there is a 50 T 1.5 on the way.

Perspective is totally different. That lens you got is great and cheap, once you use it you'll see what it's good for.

 

What tilt and shift lenss is 200$? Send me PM :D

Don't think you will get a lens for that but maybe a tilt shift adapter from EBAY (haven't looked lately and even they are likely to be more).

For a long lens have a look at this.

He used a old Tamron adaptall 300 2.8 - maybe not the best 300 2.8 but none of them are bad and it might be the lightest 300 2.8

http://www.newsshooter.com/2014/08/17/storytelling-in-reverse-michael-sutton-tells-how-he-shot-his-short-beacon-using-photron-high-speed-camera-canon-1d-c-and-gopro/

  Why do people believe manufacturers limit or turn off features?  

Agree with most of what you wrote but not this bit.

Camera makers have been doing it for decades.

Even back as far as the Pentax Spotmatic cameras.

I Have an SP500 with a maximum shutter speed on the dial of 1/500 (hence the name) but Pentax just used the shutter from the more expensive version that had a 1/1000 shutter speed but just left off the 1/1000 notch/marking though the camera still has 1/1000.

Hey guys,

 

I used a 70 - 200 canon on a c300 recently and fell in love with it. I love being able to get that close and the super shallow depth of field and nice look it gives.

 

I was wondering what you guys thought was a comparable lens in terms of quality and depth of field on a Panny GH4, with m43 speedbooster?

 

I was thinking nikon 70 - 180? 80 - 200 maybe? Which do you think I could get for cheap and that would still look high quality?

 

Or the sigma 50 - 150? not the new one with OS, (since speedbooster doesn't allow OS), but the older model for a bit cheaper.

 

I was also wondering in terms of old lenses if I get something that's really old but still sharp and fast, if it'll make much of a difference? Like a really old nikkor from the 80's?

 

Or the 'Bourne supremacy' lenses, which were some old Nikon zooms that were used on that I film, like the 80  200 I believe.

 

Any thoughts welcome

Two that might be ok

Canon FD L 80-200 f4

Tamron adaptall 70-210 3.5 (model 19ah)

both are quite good wide open and while maybe a stop less than you would like would 2.8 (with speedbooster) be enough?

Is it for 4k?     If not you have the ETC available so can use a shorter lens

Not necessarily true, the camera has a digital zoom feature that lets you go to 4x zoom in FF mode, which is a crop factor of 4 i believe. There will be a loss of quality for sure though. 

Yes.     This is a great feature of the A7 cameras.

You can set the zoom as either clearzoom (up to 2x) which is fairly lossless or digital zoom (up to 4x) and being variable is much better than cameras that only use 2x or 4x ETC.    You can set it up to use on the fly and can turn fast primes into zooms while recording using this somewhat.     Also means you can use lenses that don't quite cover the Full frame and apply a small amount of zoom like 1.2 or 1.3x to avoid vignetting and shoot away in video mode (as well as stills).     That way it is not quite using the FF but might be close enough.     Of course you can also use the clearzoom/digital zoom in APSC mode.      I am waiting to find a cheap enough APSC 50mm 1.8 stabilized AF lens to try this out on my normal A7.     I would think I might have to use about 1.3x clearzoom for it to work without vignetting.     Much cheaper than the 55 1.8 Zeiss and stabilized to boot.

Here is one.

http://www.wagga.nsw.gov.au/city-of-wagga-wagga/wagga-wagga/wagga-waggafest#page

Many of you might be a bit handicapped regarding the "Wagganess" of the film but maybe not!

 

 

So I thought why not just get the G6 body for about 370€ and some old, even vintage lenses and a adapter along with it? I'd much prefer all manual lenses anyways (at least for photography), but although I've read quite a bit about it I simply have no clue which ones I should go for in specific or what adapter would be needed. I can tell you that lens size/weight doesn't matter to me and even that the lenses don't have to be top notch - but I also don't want to waste my money on crap.
 

 

I'd be using the G6 for indoor videography - with more than enough lighting though. To give you an idea what lenses could be needed, here's what I'm using it for:

• I'm mainly filming products from a distance of about 1-2 meters
• The objects usually are below 10cm wide/high/deep
• There's basically only two options to film such a product: Either them alone, all over the screen or along with my forearms and hands holding/moving it.

But I also would use it for photography and I appreciate a nice bokeh in most cases for:

• the products I'm filming, of course
• portraits
• of course the standard family/friends pictures every now and then
• I want to get into night sky - astrophotograpy (milkyway, so no extrem zooms but a wide angle lens), also time lapses of that
• street life/nature photography is something I'm doing rather seldom

Ok, I really hope you guys can help me with lens suggestions as I just don't like the idea of getting the standart zoom bundle. Hopefully the lense junkies in this forum will assist me with their knowledge. Every answer helping me with my decision is very appreciated.
 

If the budget is tight, just get whatever is ending soonest and cheapest on Ebay and a cheap dumb adapter to match to start.

For your product stuff you can also get a cheap 2x macro converter for the same that will get you closer.

I wish m4/3 cameras had a variable digital zoom like Sony has in some of its cameras as that is something I think would be great for product shots with fast primes.     It is pretty much lossless at lower magnifications.   Or rather I wish ETC on Panasonic cameras was variable.

Erik or Andrew or anyone else who uses the A7s,

 

Do any of you use the A7s with EF Glass. If so, pros/cons. Also, do you have a product/method for locking the micro hdmi to camera and hdmi to Atomos? I plan to use the A7s for pro applications but if I can't secure the connections, then it's a no go. In my line of work, everybody needs to see what you're doing - all the time. So I'd definitely be using it with an onboard monitor or Paralinx Transmitter on a handheld rig or 3 axis gimbal (just got my Ronin!). 

 

thanks,

 

TIm

This any good to you?

http://www.lockcircle.com/lockport/

Today I have to take the final decision.

If I buy the g6 what adapter should I get? I don't know nothing about m43 lenses :/ 

 

I found this metabones sb clone http://www.ebay.it/itm/Mitakon-Lens-Turbo-Focal-Reducer-M43-Body-Nikon-F-G-Ai-Ai-s-M43-MFT-Olympus-/161167057600?pt=US_Lens_Adapters_Mounts_Tubes&hash=item25864e22c0&_uhb=1 that seem to be quite nice but it does not have an aperture ring,,,if I use a lens like the sigma 18-35 how can I change the aperture?

If I use a simple adapter with an AI lens does the camera see the aperture that I set with the aperture ring from the lens?

 

I was thinking about buying a normal adapter and the samyang 85 1.4

Unless you want the angle of view an 85 gives you on m4/3 I think you would be better off getting any old 50mm 1.7 or 1.8 lens with a dumb adapter to match.     They are all pretty good really and many are dirt cheap and you can always get others later.     plus a speedbooster or focal reducer later as well.     With some of the Panasonic cameras you can use ETC for a lossless teleconverter (in video mode) if you want longer.