Cosimo murgolo

​Nahua, when I get more time I will show you how I did it, I will post some close photos on how I clamped the sankor to the FM, meanwhile I did one more video test.
 

Nice video Cosimo!  I know how to do it, just need to drill the aluminum piece and have a bunch of grub screws to hold the anamorphic.  I just wish it was already done.  I'm not great with power tools so this is going to be a challenge.  Thanks for all your advice; Hans too.  Just a little more hard work to make this worth it.

​Nahua, when I get more time I will show you how I did it, I will post some close photos on how I clamped the sankor to the FM, meanwhile I did one more video test.
 

​Nahua, when I get more time I will show you how I did it, I will post some close photos on how I clamped the sankor to the FM, meanwhile I did one more video test.
 

​Nahua, when I get more time I will show you how I did it, I will post some close photos on how I clamped the sankor to the FM, meanwhile I did one more video test.
 

​Nahua, when I get more time I will show you how I did it, I will post some close photos on how I clamped the sankor to the FM, meanwhile I did one more video test.
 

​Ok, so this is what I've come up with so far using what bit's I had lying around. Basically this setup allows light-proof and hard linkage between the taking lens and the cinelux rear, yet allows free spinning of the VND in the middle section of the ring assembly.
To make it work you need to get a cheap double threaded CPL filter and remove the glass. This give you a rotating double threaded filter (in my example 72mm). The purpose of this empty spinning filter is so that the VND can spin freely when coupled together - without unscrewing itself from the other rings.
Then attach a double threaded VND filter (in my case 72mm Cokin 'Slim Pure Harmonie') to the empty CPL filter. The cokin VND has a front female thread of 77mm (other VND's may not have a front thread but this one does)
Attach that to a 77-72mm step down ring....Then screw into the FM cinelux 72mm rear thread adapter ring.
 
Once assembled and all rings tightened together properly - it gives a nice VND solution that is sandwiched between adapter rings. In my case I am using taking lenses with a 49mm front thread, but that step down from 72mm can be whatever is needed. The distance between taking lens optic and cinelux rear is just under 30mm - which does not seem to cause any vignette issues when shooting 85mm + with 4:3 ML raw on canon 5DmkIII.
It is a work in progress, but does allow your favorite taking lens to be 'hard' attached to the FM lens if you want. So the whole setup can be treated as if a monoblock design. The cool thing is the taking lens can twist into the lens mount as normal, as the linkage to the cinelux will allow rotation.
If I were to be using a non-cinelux type anamorphic inside the FM, I suspect a good solution would be to simply have a VND screwed onto the taking lens - with a rubber lens hood attached to the front thread of the VND. This would allow a bit of light-proofing of the join between taking lens and anamorphic rear, without hard linkage or screw fitting of any additional rings.
 

I just got mine.  Man this thing is huge and heavy.  HUGE!  The biggest problem I have is that the anamorphic is a stressed member.  The clamp they include has such a small footprint, and it's the only thing holding up everything.  With the rotating front section, it makes it very difficult to support it all.  And that rotating front section - damn the travel is so long.  Again, hard to put a lens support when it travels that much - maybe an inch and a half travel?  I got an Isco Bluestar so it works well, but I can't imagine putting in a Sankor or Kowa.  Now I understand why Cosimo had to drill the aluminum tube piece - otherwise I can't see how you'd secure the small size of the other anamorphics.  I'll be doing some measurements and seeing if I can get some support for the Kowa, but for now I'll be shooting with the Isco.  I might get a Schneider just to compare which is better.  I really wish they found a way to make the inner section longer so that you can use it as the stressed member, not the anamorphic.  Overall build quality is good, but the front cap doesn't fit well and I have to use gaffer tape to secure it.  For a first run I think this thing has a lot of potential.  Did I say it was HUGE?  LOL

​Nahua, I haven't drilled holes to the FM itself, but to the metal tube that came with the FM (see the attachment photo), I am sure if  I showed you a video tutorial you wouldn't be so scared
 At the end of the day only I did was taking the focus ring apart with a little screw driver like Hans said, the little screws came off easily, then you need to unscrew the 2 rings, once the rings were out  I decide to put a little plastic bag around the sankor, cos was quite greasy, I went with some tape around it to secure the plastic wouldn't move. Set the Sankor to infinity by pulling the top part that moves all the way up, stopped it with more tape and infinity was fixed.
After that half of the job is done, you have to find your way around it to clamp the sankor.  I was lucky to have the right stuff with me.
I used 2 redstan clamps , one actually is a filter clamp, ( see the 2nd photo)  I  put the sankor inside the FM, and from that I find my way to clamp it.
The end part of the sankor was sticking out, good, so I had room to work on it,  so I set the metal tube inside the sankor, then I took the black filter clamp and that went right around the metal tube, drew with a pen through the filter clamp's holes to be drilled into the metal tube,I took everything out , drilled the holes into the metal tube, I put back inside the FM, the black plastic screws now went right through the metal tube , they reached and stopped the sankor in the right position that was inside the metal tube. After that  the only part I had was just the end part of the sankor sticking out, so I took the other redstan clamp the red one and I attached it to the taking lens.
I hope this will help everyone with a Sankor, please forgive my english.

​Lovely as always Artiswar, how did you manage to use an Helios 44 58mm? 
I guess A7s  in APS-C mode. I love the colors and the dreamy look.
Thanks for sharing.

http://youtu.be/-xMDxeos-QY
Some 120fps stuff mixed in and more gorgeous New Mexico. 

​Hans thank you for making this video!  OK I'm not so scared now.  I definitely understand how to do this.  Now I can take my Sankor apart hehe.

Thanks Hans, this is just a quick video I did with the Sankor 16D inside the FM, nothing special. It's just to show that the hack was worth it.
 

Thanks Hans, this is just a quick video I did with the Sankor 16D inside the FM, nothing special. It's just to show that the hack was worth it.
 

​You will need some sort of lens support bracket that clamps to the rails and screws into the 1/4 hole on the FM ring clamp.
I would highly recommend a support that clamps/ locks to both rails - as most quick release lens support brackets only lock to one rail and are not totally secure when holding the full weight of the FM lens.
After trying two different lens support brackets this is what I went for, as it enables height adjustment for different cameras, allows locking of the 1/4 screw pillar (many supports like this don't lock against twist) and it's made from a quality supplier: http://store.berkeysystem.com/lens-support/
there are cheaper alternatives out there that will do the job for sure...if the jag35 baseplate allows decent height adjustment, it will be fine to use a rail lens support that is at a fixed height. There are many rail/ lens support brackets out there...might be useful for others to share what works for them?

Appreciate the test!  I just received my FM yesterday but still waiting on my rail system now.  Should i buy any other clamps or accessories or will the jag35 baseplate/rail system + FM be all i need?

Thanks Hans, this is just a quick video I did with the Sankor 16D inside the FM, nothing special. It's just to show that the hack was worth it.
 

Great job Cosimo!...that is the way to do it.
Before anyone attempts to go 'Dexter' on their lenses without knowing for sure what to do, please watch the video below. There should be NO reason to take a drill/ hacksaw or lathe to any lens!...the suggestion alone made me feel a bit unwell, so I made a short and basic video explaining how to remove the focus ring/cowl section to get the outside diameter reduced for the FM lens. (I know many here already know this...so bear with me).
This removal process will be quite universal to lenses of this type/size (kowa 8z/sankor/elmoscope etc) - I suspect that some variants will fit within 71mm diameter so if you have one of these there will not be an issue. This video shows a non-destructive disassembly method providing care is taken and the correct tools used. Being able to return the anamorphic to it's original condition is the goal here. 
Cosimo has a great idea of wrapping the uncovered section with plastic wrap before taping into the infinity position - this ensures the helicoid grease will remain contaminant free and enable the lens to be re-assembled if needs be without any ill effects from the disassembly and re-mounting process.
This video is meant as a visual guide only...do not attempt yourself if it looks too risky.
Edit: As I previously mentioned on the older FM thread, you can make your own version of the FM mounting tube for smaller anamorphics by getting some stock exhaust/ tailpipe tube in the correct diameter (all you need to do is cut it to length). These are made from stainless steel and have a thinner wall thickness than the FM aluminium version - allowing a bit more room inside for an anamorphic to fit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321033449391?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

​Nahua, I haven't drilled holes to the FM itself, but to the metal tube that came with the FM (see the attachment photo), I am sure if  I showed you a video tutorial you wouldn't be so scared
 At the end of the day only I did was taking the focus ring apart with a little screw driver like Hans said, the little screws came off easily, then you need to unscrew the 2 rings, once the rings were out  I decide to put a little plastic bag around the sankor, cos was quite greasy, I went with some tape around it to secure the plastic wouldn't move. Set the Sankor to infinity by pulling the top part that moves all the way up, stopped it with more tape and infinity was fixed.
After that half of the job is done, you have to find your way around it to clamp the sankor.  I was lucky to have the right stuff with me.
I used 2 redstan clamps , one actually is a filter clamp, ( see the 2nd photo)  I  put the sankor inside the FM, and from that I find my way to clamp it.
The end part of the sankor was sticking out, good, so I had room to work on it,  so I set the metal tube inside the sankor, then I took the black filter clamp and that went right around the metal tube, drew with a pen through the filter clamp's holes to be drilled into the metal tube,I took everything out , drilled the holes into the metal tube, I put back inside the FM, the black plastic screws now went right through the metal tube , they reached and stopped the sankor in the right position that was inside the metal tube. After that  the only part I had was just the end part of the sankor sticking out, so I took the other redstan clamp the red one and I attached it to the taking lens.
I hope this will help everyone with a Sankor, please forgive my english.

​I am not an expert when it comes to taking lenses apart, it was a nightmare for me too, I took the risk.
 It took me 3 and half hours do the job,  with kids going around and my wife complaining, I was lucky to have the right pieces, 2 redstan clamps and some ingenuity, I had to drill some holes to the  metal tube that came with the FM, but now I can say it was worth it. I can also say that I thought it was going to be more difficult. I actually had difficulties to understand how to clamp it. I tried severals ways, finally a good idea came into my mind.
Another problem that I wasn't aware of was to keep the anamorphic to infinity, once I unscrewed the metal focus ring I thought it could stay  at infinity, it didn't, when I placed the sankor into the FM, the whole focus shifted, so, I had to find a way to keep the anamorphic at infinity. I managed to put tape between that space and it didn't shift anymore.
If you don't like to go through all this, just go the isco/Schneider route, both ways are worth it, believe me.
Thank you Nahua
 

yeah post up some footage! need to know if it's worth doing to my kowa   poor kowa

​This makes me happy and sad at the same time.  Nice that you made it fit.  But the work that went into it...damn.  I really hate taking apart lenses, and this looks like a nightmare for me.  Please post some tests.  I'd really like to see if it's worth hacking it to fit or just going the Isco/Schneider route.  BTW Cosimo thanks for all your hard work - deals and hacking!

I've managed to fit the Sankor 16D inside the FM.






 

I've managed to fit the Sankor 16D inside the FM.






 

just one word, ​marvelous!!!!!  it looks very cinematic, I love it.
Thanks for sharing