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Cinegain

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Posts posted by Cinegain

  1. Wait for the OM-D E-M2 since you like the E-M1 so much? ;)

    Downsampled 4K makes for pretty sweet 1080p, so the GH4 and NX1 are pretty great and allow for some flexible use of 4K -> 1080p as well. Not sure about the child diseases plaguing the NX1 though. And personally prefer the M43-mount over the NX-one. There's a bigger line-up of native lenses and more flexibility for adding 'foreign' glass.

    If you want that fullframe magic... it kind of depends what lenses you've already got that could cover a fullframe sensor. The A7S is nice, or perhaps even the A7II? The 5DmkIII with ML RAW is still an awesome choice, but: budget and not the most practical solution. I'd personally take a look at the Nikon D750... but again, that would depend a bit on lenses already availlable and budget. The camera body with one native lens would set you back considerably and I bet you want some more glass to go with it.

    I've got my hands on the D5300 now. I really like the organic look and handling of colors, but as a hybrid shooter used to EVFs, I do miss an EVF and working in liveview with this particular camera takes its toll when shooting pictures, since the mirror wants to flip back down allowing for Phase AF, just to flip it back up again for exposure (does this in MF as well), making even quick snapshots with fast shuttertime seem like you're taking long exposures in comparison with shooting a mirrorless camera (although I can set up everything in LV first and then go out of it when shooting). But it's pretty solid for shooting 1080p50. The A6000 and A5100 seem nice enough as well, being APS-C mirrorless altenatives to the D5300, with the A6000 benefiting of sporting an EVF and the A5100 the XAVC S codec.

    Don't you happen know someone with a GH4 and perhaps a focal reducer/lens turbo/speedbooster? You should try to borrow or rent one, especially if you already have some glass that won't work on bigger sensors. You can get native lenses with T0.95 should you care to get a cinematic shallow depth of field or get some non-native lenses with a focal reducer/lens turbo/speedbooster. The files are also pretty workflow friendly. You might not want to go 4K now, but it will always be there should you decide otherwise and again, 4K makes for nice use of 1080p. If low light is not a that big of factor, the GH4 seems like a solid contender I'd say.

  2. Yes, people do it all the time. Stabilized lenses = modern lenses, you might not like the character all that much. And then again, you've seen cine primes with IS?

    If you have a GH2 and shoot with vintage glass on a focal reducer of some sorts, there's not much else but shooting unstabilized. A mono-/tripod might be in order though. You're always balancing convenience with what looks good. But if you want to start somewhere with your 5D, the EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM seems to be a nice solid base to work from.

  3. You've just missed the fps1000 Platinum: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1623255426/fps1000-the-low-cost-high-frame-rate-camera . Although, perhaps not quite what you're looking for. I'm curious to see what it's capable of in the hands of some creative filmmakers.

    Otherwise though, you can always settle for something less but still impressive and then additionally go for renting when you really need the premo stuff, I guess.

    This topic came by yesterday, two examples in there of the NX1 (120fps) & GH4 (although max 96fps): http://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/7835-samsung-nx1-slo-mo-video/ .

  4. Ah. Another philosophical thread.

    Actually, photography is very much alive, making it accessible to more and more people. The digital age does make it easier to get nice pictures without even knowing what you're doing, in that regard it's a pity that everything is so high tech and easy to get into... but then again. We used to have phonenumbers stored in our brains, now we have 'em in our phones... does that makes us dumber? Well, perhaps, lol, but now we can relocate our resources and be able to focus on other stuff (like the creative side of things). So a photographer can in fact embrace it and use it for the good of taking greater pictures.

    Not each single individual is as talented as the next though, but overall there's much more quality stuff out there, which makes it harder to get noticed. So unless you fear that others are worlds better than you, I'd say you have nothing to worry about in terms of being a relevant photographer.

  5. I got the LX100 yesterday and there are a couple of things I don't understand. I change Iso, aperture or shutter and I don't see any change on the rear LCD. When I press record, the settings took effect and the look mostly change. Is there a way I can see changes on the LCD?? Also I set Iso to Auto, and when I press record, the Iso is fixed. Is like when recording video settings change. Clearly I looked at the manual, but they didn't explain what I need!

    Thanks!

    ​It's in the custom menu when shooting manually (make sure you haven't hit the iA-button on top of the camera, it will limit your settings options). Then go to page 5/9 and turn 'Constant preview' to 'ON'. That should do the trick for the previewing part of your question. About autoISO. We touched on that earlier. It locks to ISO200. If you can try to keep it at ISO1250 or lower for the most acceptable noise levels.

    Yeah, you appear to be right, I can't seem to replicate that.

    Perhaps this wasn't the case to begin with and ISO200 coincidentally just happened to be sufficient when briefly testing that, making it seem the camera locked the ISO to match the lit scene and not dynamically adjusting the ISO to keep a balanced exposure when starting to pan away to something lit differently (the test was to see if the ISO (auto) changed throughout; it didn't, auto-locking an initial ISO was an unfortunate assumption, not tested for (apparently)).

     

    Although again I still prefer not to use any automated settings. I don't want to touch the shutter (flickering/motion blur), I know the aperture is not clickless (exposure jumps, losing set depth of field) and you can not add more light to f/1.7 (maximum aperture), in lowlight you don't want to cut more light with a ND-filter (it's like that one guy you know that wears sunglasses indoors) and if you're out and about doing some street stuff, you can't just add light to a scene (or do you just happen to always carry around a huge lighting kit?)... so I get the only variable left to touch and add light is the ISO. But then again, I also like to control noise and think it's rather noticeable if you change ISO mid shoot, but okay, you can make a creative cut to make it less obvious... but then again. You can also do it manually. Just 'feel' what the scene needs and just adjust any of the settings you'd rather not change. Sometimes I do not mind under- and/or overexposing during a clip when I know I'll be back to the initial settings a moment later (I find this rather natural anyways, on a sunny day with blinds closed at home, you won't magically adapt from in- to outdoors in a second, it takes a bit). It's different of course if the change lasts and you're still under- of overexposing. But again, then I just press a button, twist a dial and Bob's your uncle. Not really a that big of deal. Especially if you considered it for intial ISO and knew it wouldn't change automatically thereafter anyways. Would you really mind setting it? Do you think the auto-mode would be that much faster/accurate? Maybe due to funky metering it might jump up to a higher ISO than you think the scene needs (or a too low ISO). I don't know. I guess that more options and features is always a good thing and that (extreme) situations (where you need to start rolling quickly and adaptively, or an oppertunity could be left unused), might require certain wishes to be fulfilled, I personally can't really say I'm bothered by the amount of manual control.

  6. After seeing this: http://3dkraft.de/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=137:adorable-25s-25mm-f095-speed-lens-comparison-on-lumix-gh3&catid=40:camerasandlenses&Itemid=2 I went for the SLR Magic HyperPrime CINE 25mm T0.95. It too is a bit soft wide open, but I just like the look a lot and the CINE-lens is more CINEminded. Back then I was with the 1st 100 pre-orders so I got a nice discount making it cheaper than the Voigtländer offering. I also have the Tokina 11-16mm (actually just swapped the original one for a II-version because of the AF with the D5300), which is nice, but also a little soft wide open, you can close it down a tad bit, but it being maximum f/2.8 already, it's not quite up there with the others in terms of shallow depth-of-field/low light performance, even with a focal reducer/speedbooster/lens turbo. But as already touched on before, is there really a need for the widest end to have a shallow depth of field? There's more field, so it's harder to get a shallow depth anyways, unless you're like macro close to your subject, so I feel like you might as well embrace it and create a deep depth of field, optimizing sharpness and stopping the lens down a bit. Works pretty nicely for glidecam stuff too. Although, I do have to admit, there are a few shots in that video there, where there's some pretty nice background separation going on and there's not much that touches on 10mm. Just a step up there's quite a bit of 12mm choices. Personally looking forward to the Veydra line-up. In case you've missed it: http://www.veydra.com/shop/ | https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/665053329/veydra-m4-3-cinema-lenses-for-gh4-and-bmpcc | https://matthewduclos.wordpress.com/2014/11/20/veydra-first-to-offer-m43-cinema-primes/ | http://provideocoalition.com/awilt/story/first-look-veydra-mini-primes-for-micro-four-thirds . A little quote from that last one (PVC):

    If I had to describe Veydras in one pithy phrase, I’d say, “scaled-down Ultra Primes for micro four thirds cameras”. They’re sharp, rectilinear, and clean: good, workmanlike optics with no nasty surprises.

    Andrew, you happen to be in contact with Veydra? Would be cool if they could send you some for testing as well.

    But to steer things back on topic... at jcs: seb mentioned 'f/1.8'. Check his topics as well.

  7. If it's anything like the NX300 the ergonomics will suck.

    I've been waiting for cameras to shoot 2.5K for a while now, though. 1440p is just enough wiggleroom one would need to create cool 1080p projects, I'd say, if you, as manufacturer, don't want to take a camera full 4K.

    The E-M1 has lots of things going for it, it's really fun for photography and the IBIS works like a charm for video... but... I do keep running into the issue that 30p is not flexible enough. I really want that 24p and 25p. More so than 4K even

    (btw, why don't cameras come with 1330p or 1440p? It's either 1080p or 2160p. But for a little post footage stabilization or subtle zoom-ins/pans, 1330/1440p would already do the trick right?)

    .

    If only Nikon and Canon would just work on their videomodes. Dedicated mode with full manual control. Peaking and all the whistles. Mic in and headphone jack standard on any model. You don't even have to go 4K (what I'm concerned) if you're too worried you'll kill the camera, or your high-end line-up sales for that matter. Just give it GoPro Hero3-like specs. 4K @ 15 fps (although, you could just leave it alltogether), the 2.7K at 30 and 24p and 1440p mode at 48 fps (great for warp stabilizing and converting back to 1080p). Then bitrate, bitrate, bitrate! And compression!

  8. Forgive the naivety, but when you refer to -3,0,-3 what exactly do you mean? I'm assuming it's in the expanded feature menu of the PP's or is it without any PP at all and just the numbers refer to the photographic menus. I would really appreciate a pointer.

    Appreciate all your help !

    Cheers  

    ​​

    dial down contrast to -3 and sharpening to -3

    The settings are 'contrast' - 'saturation' and 'sharpness', so -3 for contrast and sharpness, leaving the saturation untouched (at 0, preserving color information).

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJNWY5EM4gg&t=8m40s

  9. Just curious... if you're using a rails based setup, why even bother with matteboxes that attach to the lens itself (clip-on) if you can mount one to the rails and get yourself a donut?

  10. To be honest, the D5200 was pretty great (quite the substantial upgrade from the D5100) and they then left out the optical low pass filter thereafter on the D5300 and included Expeed 4 processing, making it even better.

    But I'm pretty sure the change from D5500 is more about usability than picture quality. Performance in terms of sensor, processing and AF-system sound the exact same (and Nikon not claiming otherwise!). So the jump you're expecting in the video department, I'm not sure if you'll get it.

    I mean, touchscreen is a nice add-on, but I hardly ever use touch on the GH4. I've got my double dials, WB/ISO/exposure comp under a touch of a finger already. And I use a lot of manual only glass, so touch focus is not really applicable most of the time anyways, nothing wrong with doing things manually. Monocoque body... well, I never killed a camera of any sorts, so I don't really mind a somewhat lesser build quality. They also seem to got rid of the GPS and all in all, the D5500 is a bit slimmed down from the D5300. The flat profile might be something interesting, but I'm not sure if it does what I think it does. I've read somewhere that in this profile you'll have more intermediate steps to dial down or up things like sharpness for more control?

    If you're looking for image quality out of the D5500, I'd say to just look at footage out of a D5300, which you already know what it's capable of. If you want to see the touch AF in action, then ok, wait for the D5500 videos to pop up. Which I guess will take a while, I'm pretty sure they're not in stock at stores already.

     

  11. Hey there! So I have an SLR magic 25mm CINE I .95 ( I got it early on the pre-order side) , and I need another lens to match this lens for Dual shots during dialogue. I saw there now is an SLR magic 25mm CINE II .95, what is the CINE II? Is it worth the $150 more? And will it match up ok with my SLR magic 25mm CINE I?

    Another option was a voigtlander 25mm .95... But Im guessing this wouldn't match up too great with the SLR magic 25mm ?

    Thank you!!

    ​If you would've check their website... it says 'This is the new updated version which has been strengthened to assist operation when using with the Anamophot, anamorphic adapter'. Optics are probably unchanged, but the housing might allow for better mounting of a clamp adapter. I'd 2nd the mention of getting a 35mm as 2nd lens to shoot with.

  12. I remember Canon having in an issue with their 5DmkIII as well: http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/support/consumer?pageKeyCode=prdAdvDetail&docId=0901e02480538fc7&WT.mc_id=C126149 . As long as it is being recognized and dealt with, I hope it works out for all parties involved. Releasing the firmware with a lot of stuff addressed looks promising from Samsung's side though. It's nice of a manufacturer to listen and actually do something with feedback. I hope they keep it up.

  13. I've got the same as John just mentioned (Takstar is a pretty big brand in CN, http://takstar.tmall.com , the HI2050 and Pro80 for example are pretty popular (head-fi) headphones as well) and a HTDZ HT-81 shotgun mic (eBay) paired with a Zoom H1.

    Also tried the PL-MIC02 from iShoot, this one is utter crap though. But the Takstar SGC-598 I'd say is a fair option.

  14. Ah, yeah, true. I can see that not working out so great for video/MF. Thanks for the heads up.

    Curious to see what you'll end up with/people can suggest then.

  15. DX or FX? Now that I've picked up the D5300, I started looking at what uncle Ken has to say.

    http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/35mm-f18.htm

    Ken loves the 35mm f/1.8, saying 'This could be the only lens you ever need for a DX camera'. And when he goes on about he 18-300mm... 'This Nikon 18-300mm is the new freedom lens. It does everything you'd ever need, from family to landscapes to portraits to sports to African safaris. This 18-300mm does it all. The only thing it doesn't do is have high optical speed for use in the dark without flash; for that one thing I love my inexpensive and excellent 35/1.8 DX.'

    He makes it sound worthwhile for sure. I might need to look into those.

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