jasondhsd

Hmm mine doesn't do that. I woul also check the eye sensor or turn it off...its way too sensitive it activates if you just pass something within 2 inches of it.

Although I do feel a bit abandoned I really wish they would give us some new features like focus peaking or some focus aid during recording.

Hmm mine doesn't do that. I woul also check the eye sensor or turn it off...its way too sensitive it activates if you just pass something within 2 inches of it.

Although I do feel a bit abandoned I really wish they would give us some new features like focus peaking or some focus aid during recording.

What tilting monitor problem?

Since you don't have a headphone jack on the camera you have two options, get an external recorder and set it up like your video....in the video the only reason they have a spliter coming out of the headphone jack on the recorder is for a guide track inside the camera so it's easier to sync the recorder audio with the camera. As for the microphone to get if you're going the external mic route I think the Rode NGT-2 is usually favored. 

 

Second option would be a shotgun mic that can mount to your hotshoe and has a built in recorder with a headphone jack the Shure Vp83F http://amzn.to/1edCUe3 comes to mind.  Rode I believe was actually the first to announce a mini shotgun with internal recorder several years ago called the video mic pro HD but I haven't seen it being sold anywhere. 

I got a fotga 500dpII follow focus wrapped the included lens gear around my 12-35mm 2.8 I place the connector end as close to the gear as possible but I can't make it through the whole range before the connector comes back on the other side it needs like another half turn.  Is there a solution for this problem (aside from using a different lens) I thought maybe a larger gear on the FF would work but then I thought no that would just make it come around faster.

Oh damnit apparently its an April fools joke....that was posted on March 31...

What do you guys think? I hope its not true I love the micro four thirds system and lenses. I was planning on buying the 35-100 f2.8 and the 100-300mm but if there's any legitimacy to this why should I invest into a system that won't be supported in two years....I doubt these lens would work on a full frame sensor right?

what model stabilizer is that?

Use any photo style you like for Film Convert. It is designed to work with anything from Vivid to Neutral.

 

What is your profile of choice for the gh3?

I'm 90% sure they are the same lens and cost around $100-$120 I know vivitar used to be a samyang vendor but I'm pretty sure these aren't....does anyone have any experience with these?

I bought a yashica 50mm f2 based on Andy's recommendation still waiting for the adapter. I'm a bit hesitant to buy other focal lengths because the rest are only f2.8 and I have that covered with my 12-35mm zoom. For a prime I want at least f2 or faster. Too bad metabones doesn't come out with a speed booster for these yashicas.

Edit: hmm will this work? I didnt see this when i looked last guess i missed it http://www.metabones.com/products/details/MB_SPCY-m43-BM1

Andy, how is the Lumix G Vario HD 14-140mm, the HD denoting it was optimized for video.  Might be a better option for "general video" 

I'm a PC guy myself but those new mac pros are an unbelievable value when compared to building an off the shelf computer.  The stock 6 core at $3,999 has dual graphics cards that would set you back over $1k each if you bought them off the shelf. 

will this work with a gh3?

Why would a new card be required? At maximum nitrate of 240mbit that's only about 35mbytes/s and the 4k internal is only 100mbits/s. Aren't most people at least using 45mb cards already?

Have you guys heard about this 

varizoom solo jib and dolly?  Its listed as coming soon with a price tag of $1249 for the whole kit (dolly, jib, tripod) seems like a pretty good deal to me but I'm pretty new to videography / cinematography so I'd like to get opinions from some veterans if this system would be good to have. thanks

I think all native panasonic/olympus lenses are focus-by-wire in that even if it has a manual focus ring it's not actually moving anything but sending a signal or whatever back through the camera.  Anyway if you do want an actual focus ring then this would do the trick http://amzn.to/1bGZiAN or if you can deal with 14mm this is even cheaper http://amzn.to/1mDJtzG

What about the Panasonic 12-32mm pancake? http://amzn.to/MUauyD

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MITAKON-New-35mm-f-0-95-Black-MF-camera-lens-for-Panasonic-m4-3-GH-GX-GF-G-/190759489965?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item2c6a26d1ad

 

Was searching for a voightlander or slr magic and found this.

What is the difference between a lut and something like filmconvert?

I'm looking at getting a used canon FD 50mm or 55mm F1.2 around $250 as a more affordable option to a voitlanger or SLR magic 0.95. But I never see anyone mention these lenses, are there any issues to be aware of as to why it might not be a good option? Has anyone ever shot with these lenses? Thanks

I know total noob question but that's what I am.  Where in a scene should I set my exposure too & what method is best to use. For example lets I'm shooting in a room, light is coming in from a window on one side if I set my exposure aperture/shutter speed/iso so my meter is in the center while pointed facing the window when I pan around the side away from the window might be too dark but if I set the exposure to the dark (not really dark just not as bright as near the window) the area near the window will be blown out.  Do I try to find a mid-point and set my exposure there? If I understand correctly the exposure is suppose to stay the same through a scene but I can't get the exposure meter to stay more or less in the center.  

 

tl/dr: What's the proper way to set exposure in a scene, what metering mode and where to measure.

Here's a review on the original Chinese clone, the lens turbo which was priced at about $230 http://www.mirrorlessworld.com/?p=6265 and I'm assuming these are even lousier. 

Thanks, natural profile I'm assuming?

Hi I just read through the book one question: you mention what photo style setting to use if you're not going to grade the footage but what photo style settings do you use if you are going to grade the footage with Film convert?