Vesku
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Posts posted by Vesku
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Also if you want more blur I agree to lower your shutter to 25-30 range as shown in this video which looks simply amazing.
Looks like old mans dream with darkened and bad eyes and obviously he has forgot his glasses somewhere.
I was joking when I suggested 1/25s SS and more blur.
In fact I want sharp motion and clear videos so that I can have the same illusion like watching with my own eyes. Pans and camera movement should be sharp and clear and fluid. I want "being there" effect more than "dreaming of being there". I think that dreamy and blurred motion can be done with 60P too but without 24P stuttering.
Now when all cinema theaters has video projectors and people watch their digital devices it is time to go towards more natural moving images. 24P look should be one of the special effects like black and white or slow motion in the future. It could be like a style of "flashbacks" or memories from the previous decade or when telling a story of someone seeing a dream. Some fight scenes can have extra danger feel with stuttering look.
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Is it a bad or cheap thing if you see details in motion or panning without stuttering or blurring. It was impossible with 24P film but now with 60P and powerful cameras it is possible. I think that 24P film look is now just one art style of film making like pointillism or impressionism in painting world. Why so many are afraid of added realism in moving pictures? Is the 24P fairy tale look all there is in film world?
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Just a word of caution: "motion cadence" is neither a scientific, nor a technical term, but a term that only exists on videographer forums...
Sounds like a religious term to me
Some smartphones like to record uneven frame rate and computers and Youtube usually drop frames during playback. It certainly makes motion look bad.
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Use very old soft lens and 1/25 shutter speed and avoid any fast subject or camera movement. Then you get pleasing motion. If you see any disturbing detail you can blur in post more.
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So now youre faffing about getting the right mode before changing the settings?
I'm all for this feature to be implemented (just so its there) but your reasoning makes no sense.
Yes right mode for right shooting session, not for every clip. When the basic setup is right it is easy just shoot without thinking every clip.
-Indoors with 50Hz lightning S-mode and 1/50ss and auto iso or fixed iso.
-with ex-tele when the best objective sharpness is a goal I use A and the sharpest aperture.
-if I want sharp motion or sharp slow motion I use high shutter speed. S or A if i could see the SS.
-etc
If I could monitor what the camera is doing I could react and compensate with EV or current setting (S or A) during a clip or session.
Exposure tools are designed for use. I just wonder why the camera wont show what it is doing with these tools. What harm can it cause? Does Panasonic think that it want to protect us for not showing too much information so that we cant understand the situation. I think it is actually backwards. Now we are confused why clips look bad sometimes when using auto modes. GH4 is a flagship model for experienced users. I am sure that we can understand what exposure values mean while shooting.
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Then why shoot automatic at all if you are afraid of those dangers?! It's not like you can change those values in auto
-If I use A I can select aperture so that the SS works in safe zone. If SS wants to go too high I dial to smaller aperture.
-If I use S I can select shutter which gives me proper aperture. I select higher shutter if aperture wants to go to diffraction zone.
-If using S and auto iso in dark, I can change shutter speed so that the iso wont go too high. It would also be helpful to see if camera goes to iso 6400. I could the dial SS to 1/30s to lower iso. Auto iso is handy because it can minimize iso to get least noise. I still want to see what is doing.
-etc...
It is not fun to think exposure every time I start a new clip. I want to spend my capacity to creativity like composition, subject, camera movements, interviewing, telling something, focusing, zooming...
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When the HDR video comes with more contrasty and brighter displays we dont need to waste those very high glossy shining tones. Flat images will look good too without adjusting to extremes like today.
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Why do you want to see the exposure values? If you are shooting manual, you will know what the values are since you've set them yourself. If you are shooting auto, seeing the values is not going to give you control over them in any way. Why would you shoot auto modes?
If I am shooting run and gun style I have no time and interest to set every clip manually. There are many situations when I must start camera instantly when something happens. Why cant I shoot with auto then? Sometimes I must pan from dark to bright light. Sometimes light changes dramatically i.e a cloud blocks the sun rapidly. I may walk with camera from inside to outside. Why are you people always say dont use auto?
When I dont see the automatic value I cant know if I am in danger zone.
-too small aperture and diffraction
-too low shutter speed for post stabilization
-too high SS (jerky motion)
Is the GH4 ment only for movie production? I think it is after all just a consumer camera. A normal user will select 1/60 ss in a sunny day like recommended and shoots with aperture f22 not knowing that it will ruin the clip. Then he wonders why his 4k videos are so soft.
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Does anyone know why Panasonic cameras wont show exposure values while shooting video. It must be a conscious decision of Panasonic but why? It is difficult to use automatic modes with my GH4 because I cant know what the camera is doing. Even some compact cameras like Sony RX100 shows exposure values. I think that GH4 is still more serious video tool that RX100. I wonder why no review mention that issue. (I know, use manual etc etc..., but many times there is no time to adjust manual)
Would you buy a photo camera which wont show exposure values?
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If only GH4 could do this very high tech and sophisticated AF ON - AF OFF thing I would be super happy
Samsung has somehow figured how to program that.
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Using Creative Video mode S (1/100ss) or flickr decrease creates another problem. You change the juddery motion to jumping or stepping exposure
So no smooth video with GX7 / GHx automatic exposure.
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Is there a sensor damage danger if pointed to sun long time?
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In 50P shutter speed is not so important. Background may look a little "strobo like" in fast pans but the pan and motion itself looks still quite smooth. There should not be any "jump frames".
-Apoon204, have you tried computer/monitor in 50Hz? Is it possible in your system?
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LCD or plasma? A plasma will show much smoother motion with its sub field motion than any computer monitor, which may be what you're seeing.
LCD or plasma TV will both show smooth motion. There is no "sub field motion" in plasma. It is a marketing term. There is just the same frame interpolation in both. TV shows sharp motion due to flickering backlight systems and it is smoothed or fluided with frame interpolation if needed. Computer monitor has none of these systems so the motion is very blurred and juddery.
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People watching videos with computers dont like to have smooth or realistic motion. Blurred or jerky motion is the "standard" of cinema production and computer monitors. Using a TV for real cinema experience is not recommended here. At least you must switch off every features that may improve motion resolution or smoothness. And many say that shooting 50P or 60P looks cheap and videoish.
Switch your graphics card/monitor to 50Hz and you get decent (but still blurred) motion with your GX7. TV does that automatically but improves motion resolution too (which is of course a bad thing).
Computer monitor can never show motion resolution better than 300 lines even with 4k. Still a cheap fullHD TV can show about 1000 lines of horizontal motion resolution. More info about sharp motion here:
http://***URL removed***/forums/post/52942296
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so why not work on something that a majority of people actually need...
Panasonic should fix the basic exposure and functionality issues before making these "extras".
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I dont get it. The exposure bar at the bottom of the display shows your current exposure if you're in manual mode. And in P/A/S mode it will allow you to change exposure compensation. Is there some other functionality missing that I'm not aware of?
If you use A-mode the camera is not showing shutter speed it picks. If you use S-mode the camera is not showing aperture. If you use P-mode the camera is not showing anything...
I want to know what my camera is doing. How many would buy a camera which takes photos not showing automatic exposure values it uses.
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exp comp, Rig...
exp comp: That is not showing exposure values, it just assigns exp compensation to front or rear wheel.
Rig: Stabilator or gimbal rig can remove jitter but normal rig can not very well.
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I think you're being a bit overly critical Vesku. It does show exposure value, just not when changing ISO. But its not exactly rocket science to work out what your EV value will be as you change it.
GH4 doesnt show the current automatic value it uses. And yes sometimes automatic is usefull.
No DSLR-like camera except for the d750 and d810 can change aperture steplessly.
That is a big mystery because the aperture motor is stepless. How many years will pass before some brand actually makes that happen? Maybe Panasonic??
I've never seen problems with the AE/AF lock. What are you talking about?
You cant lock it and release it again during shooting like with other cameras. It would be very nice to stop AF during a clip and release it if subject moves etc...
Its got plenty of button options and saving options. More than most other DSLR-like cameras.
There are several very important functions which cannot assign to FN. Some less important can. Who decides which are important? There are completely useless buttons too.
Why are you using AF for video?
AFS is very usefull and more accurate than MF.
OIS is worse than other brands, but still much better than handholding. Lens stabilisation is kind of overrated anyway. Rigging the camera against your chest or shoulder generally gives a more weighty, cinematic feel.
No rig can remove micro-jitter. A decent OIS can.
I forgot the autoiso in M. Not rocket science but very very usefull.
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GH4 is kind of odd thing. It has very sophisticated gimmicks like recognizing friends faces and teaching and entering their names or many useless image effects. Very good IQ. Still the camera cant show exposure values it uses or it cant adjust aperture steplessly. AE/AF-lock is crippled, too few customation saving options, cant assign important items to FN-buttons, cant do even AFS in slowmotion mode etc, etc. Panasonic lenses has also bad features like worst OIS of all brands, sticky zooms, very unparfocal designs and jamming AF. These are the mix of very high IQ/design and toy-like mistakes and faults.
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Canon it is if you want a nice cheap 1k camera.
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I finally got an answer from Panasonic factory about my questions of Panasonic 14-140mm f3.5-5.6 OIS jittering in video. They said that my many jittering example videos I have posted to them looks normal and the the OIS seems to work in factory standards and there is nothing wrong.
It is not a surprise, what else they can say. They said the same thing about 35-100 f2.8 but still they made the FW fix. But now they cant say that they have not heard about the issue of 14-140 II because they answered me about it. I hope the will make the same update than they made for 35-100mm f2.8.
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"..auto display brightness turned off it no longer has a exposure problem..."
Those clever engineers...
Motion Cadencemo
In: Cameras
Posted
Lets see how many shoot 24P after 5 years.
There is no such thing as film today. Why try to imitate old look with new tools? Okay 60P ecosystem is just coming in fullhd and not reality in 4k but 30P is still available everywhere.
Is there anyone who shoots nature movies or documentaries or sports films? Are you all shooting fiction movies with dreamy look and shallow DOF? How about recording memories or everyday life? Does perfect, sharp and fluid motion has actually the best cadence?
What is the difference of broadcast TV and film today. People watch everything with everything. We watch TV programs with computers and smartphones and movies with TV. Why a look which blurs the movie and adds stuttering artefacts or faults to moving parts of video is more "cool" than clear and sharp video. Even as a child I always wondered why the movie looks bad every time the camera pans or someone moves. I never learned to love those faults. Is there any value when all the landscape detail disappear when turning camera? Why not add some scratches and jittering film projector vibration and film noise too (in fact some are doing that).