Chris Elkerton

​I see your point. When shooting faces I sometimes 'under squeeze' a bit (sometimes too much). I guess it a subjective thing. I think sometimes we get a distorted view of our images because we have seen the original. Plus i think it depends on different factors, focal length, subject  distance, talking lens.  It can make your workflow tricky.

If I saw the x1.5 version of your shot in something, I don't think it would leap out as 'wrong'. But maybe the x1.4 looks more natural.

its a weird one, but it makes shooting anamorphic more fun.

 

Nice shares guys.

Great shot Rich, Iscorama?

Artiswar, techically not a model, but its a great shot so i'll let it go. 

Cosimo, you seem to be doing just fine, nice stuff.

Such a great resource! Thanks Tito.

Canon 5d Mark ii Lomo Squarefront with Lomo 1m diopter.

I like this one, some real anamorphic charater.

 

We can get a little bit bogged down with the tech side of stuff, sometimes its nice to get back to what we are all about.... images!

So for a bit of fun I propose a thread of just images using models. (Anamorphic of course) Feel free to post your own stuff here, it would be nice to see different styles and techniques. Have a dig through your drives, or grab your camera and see what you can come up with.

Here's one to get us started.

 

Canon 5d markii Lomo Squarefront 85mm.

You can go out to tiff, but I would personally do 10bit dpx or 16bit exrs. You will however suffer a larger playback performance hit if you do. I have personally found dpx to be the best for playback and editing but they are large file size and I have experience color/gamma shifts going back and forth between different/non adobe software packages.

I will check out grass valley, thanks.

Perhaps the playback issie could be fixed by using proxy files for the edit, then swapping to 'full fat' versions for the render. I've done this in AE a few times, not sure about PPRO.

No, larger as well. If memory serves me righ you won't be able to go much wider than 50mm on 5D

I have a Redstan front filter/diopter adapter for your Otex, PM me if you're interested.

Chris.

Thanks again everyone for all the advice.

Yesterday was my first full day shooting and I have to say the Komputerbay cards performed brilliantly! The same can't be said for the Lexar, which crapped out at 4 seconds!! Needless to say it will be going back.

FWIW
Had a lot of success with program "cliphouse"
it has speeded up our ML workflow.
Its most important feature is to preview your clips very quickly (not instantly but pretty quick) giving you on set playback.
we have a laptop with connected card reader, we dont offload card just use it to connect files to program for playback.
Also we found it can process/export your video file in the aspect ratios you decide.

Thanks Proctor, the main disadvantage of Raw is the lack of speedy play back. Will certainly take a look at this as I have quite a bit of footage to trall through! :)

you probably know about this, check it out for the ones who don't

http://www.vision-color.com/visionlog/

Looks very interesting, will definitely give this a look.
Thanks for sharing :)

Oh yeh, forgot about that, good point! You can also apply the colour profile set by your camera.

Thanks for all the advice everyone, much appreciated.

 

I have had chance to do some experimentation and I am loving the results I am getting! The image looks fantastic!

My work flow at the minute is looking like this:

 

• Shoot 1600 x 1200px (Getting around 40 seconds with no overlays, 7 sec with overlays!?!)
• Convert to DNG using RAWMagic lite
• Import to After Effects CC as a DNG sequence
• Interpret footage: (23.976 fps) (Pixel aspect ratio 2:1 Anamorphic)
• Drop onto the 'Create New Comp' button (to maintain settings) name this comp 'Footage'
• Create new comp (little tip) enter the width and hight as 266 x 100, which = 2.66:1. (Or whatever ratio you want) Then lock the aspect ratio. Enter the width of the format you want to work in, in this case 1920. This will work out the hight for you ;) 1920 x 722px. Name this 2.66.
• Drop the comp named footage from before into the 2.66 comp and scale the size to 60.5%
• Then adjust the scale to suite your focal length. eg. at 2 meters I was using 60% width 65% hight to adjust for the change in squeeze at shorter focal lengths.
• If you want the black bars (and lets face it you might) create a comp at 1920 x 1080 and drop the 2.66 comp into it.
• If you want to grade you footage go back to the comp named Footage and select the DNG sequence. To to Edit>Edit Origonal to boot Camera Raw.
• Render to what ever format you like :)

That sounds expensive. It isn't serious on any of my lenses so hopefully it won't be a problem. It sounds like it could be worse for Anthony though.

Yes, the re-coat would be very expensive and only for the brave. Maybe an option for Anthony and his 54? TBH, and I hate to say this, it may well be easy to buy a new one.

Nearly all of my lenses (anamorphic and normal) are old ones I've bought used and some of them have minor fungal marks. Would leaving them in the sun help?

From what I understand, direct sunlight would kill the fugus and prevent it from spreading.
Cleaning fungus is quite complicated, as it depends how bad it is. In some cases the fugus eats into the coating, so in theory you could have the glass polished and re-coated. I looked into this once but couldn't find anyone willing to do it.

If your lens is really a 1.6 stretch then you will want to shoot with a ratio of 3:2 or wider. 3:2 with a 1.6x squeeze will give you a 2.4 aspect, 4:3 will give you a 2.13 aspect and would be non standard unless  you crop. With ML you have so many choices for resolutions and aspect ratios that I would personally choose the settings that require the least amount of cropping. Cropping can be useful but you will be maxing out the potential of the camera so every little bit of savings will help, ML raw is very data intensive.

 

If you shoot 3:2 at 1600 resolution that will be about 68 MB/s at 24P, this will be continuous with MLV and sound even with Global Draw on so you can use focus peaking, magic zoom etc. I haven't used ML raw lately but it was a little unstable with Global Draw on - dropped random frames. I am not sure it that has been fixed in the last few months or not, worth checking into.

 

After that is 1728 resolution and that will  pull about 79.7 MB/s which will not be continuous allowing maybe 10 seconds before dropping frames. Not worth it IMO. 

 

So, I would personally shoot 3:2  - 1600px at 24P with MLV and sound using global draw if you have no external monitoring and if it is now stable enough (may require some testing on your part). Even if you are recording externally I would record audio in camera as well. It helps tremendously for audio syncing and can be done automatically using plural eyes. For now I would test and experiment as much as you can. ML raw is awesome but it is data and time intensive and will really slow down post.

Thanks dhessel

chris i dont want to freak you out completely but the komputerbays are a bit of a russian roulette! check them because they fail,

and when i mean fail they dont reach the required speeds or fail alltogether, check the 1 star reviews in amazon

hence the cheap price...if you have money to spare try to get at least one propper 1000x true lexar, since this is a professional gig

 

best of luck

Haha, no worries Christina. It's good to know what you're up against, this is just the information I was looking for, so thanks.

Not too worried as it's only a personal project. Still want to get it right though. ;)

 

I have had no problems with the several 64gb cards I have purchased. I believe the 128gb ones do have problems though

Thanks Silverstones, I hope this is the case with mine. :)

 

I have 5 (well, 4 now, since I sold one) KB, and had problems with some of them. Their guys told me to format them using a USB3 reader, on a USB3 port, and they should come back to normal. And it did work, flawlessly, in more than one occasion.

 

None of mine had speed issues, though. So I can't advise you on that matter.

 

Lexars are way too expensive.

I have heard the same thing about card readers. I have a new one on its way, apparnetly it needs it to be UDMA 7 compliant. I have also heard the same about connecting via USB 3, apperntly the slower speeds of USB 2 can corrupt cards.?....

please post results... and your workflow when you are done
i get the heebie-jeebies when the camera freezes with ML...
also make sure to benchmark the Komputerbay cards with ML,as soon as you get them, some of them fail to deliver and you will need to ask for a replacement

as far as i know they are lexars that didnt pass quality control, i own one
good luck!

Hi Christina.
Haha, you are freaking me out! This isn't for the faint hearted is it. 😥 The Lexar better not be bad, I will be really pissed if it is!! It arrived today so I will have a little play.
I will certainly post my findings and results on the workflow. Hopefully some nice footage as well. 😀
Thanks for the advice.

Just bought 2 x 64GB 1000x Komputerbay cards :) Fingers crossed!

Pretty much agree with everything said. My workflow is a little different (I don't get along with Davinci), but until this point, I'd say the same.

 

 

Yes, buy more. Get Komputerbays, they're MUCH cheaper, but beware because some are bad and won't keep up the required speed.

 

If you come across a particularly bad translated part, tell me about it, and I'll try to beat google translator on the job. hahaha. :)

I was supposed to translate this whole thing, but I'm lacking the patience to go through 100 pages. hehe

ah okay, I heard bad things about the Komputerbay card so I avioded them. They seen to do a new 1050x card now that may be more reliable? I have been reading through for document (although I am supposed to be working!!) It's very helpful, thanks! Google translate makes me laugh sometimes, but it mostly makes sense. ;)

 

You will need at least 3 64GB cards. One in the camera, one transferring on set, and one for backup/emergency.

 

Make sure you're running USB 3.0 as well.

Thanks for the advice, I am frantically looking for cards now, problem is I leave for Bulgaria (where I will be shooting) on 24th!! Amazon! I will have my new Macbook Pro with be, so dumping dow should be a breeze :)

 

Thanks for all the advice guys, I love this forum!

Hey Tito, thanks man I will definitely give that a read. Lets hope Google translate is up to the job! 😄

Thanks Anthony. Good advice i will definitley be testing before hand. 12 mins on a 64GB card!!! Oh shit, 6 mins on a 32GB, that is not gonna cut it. 😥 Better buy more cards!!

Hi,

I will be shooting a project using ML raw in few weeks and wanted to get a bit of advice on workflow.

I will be shooting on my 5D Mark 2 and Lomo BAS 80mm.

I have just bought a 32GB Lexar 1000x CF card, and am going to buy the Lexar UDMA 7 reader to go with it. Any thoughts? I've always used Lexar cards and had no issue.

Any advice on workflow, ML settings, conversion tools, latest advancements, any lessons learned along the way.....

I am going to shoot mostly in 4:3.
Then for close shots, maybe as high res as possible? Then desqueeze and crop to suit after. (lens is closer to 1.6x squeeze factor when at min focus). How do you guys approach this?

I have used ML before but not for a while, and never with raw. Ive heard the workflow can be painful. So any advice you think might help me come post is more than welcome.

Thanks in advance,

Chris

Hi,

I will be shooting a project using ML raw in few weeks and wanted to get a bit of advice on workflow.

I will be shooting on my 5D Mark 2 and Lomo BAS 80mm. :)

I have just bought a 32GB Lexar 1000x CF card, and am going to buy the Lexar UDMA 7 reader to go with it. Any thoughts? I've always used Lexar cards and had no issue.

Any advice on workflow, ML settings, conversion tools etc.

I am going to shoot mostly in 4:3.
Then for close shots, maybe just as high res as possible. Then desqueeze and crop to suit after. (lens is closer to 1.6x squeeze factor when at min focus). How do you guys approach this?

I have used ML before but not for a while, and never with raw. Ive heard the workflow can be a bit of a pain. So any advice you think might help me is more then welcome.

Thanks in advance,

Chris

I totally agree Russell, thanks for sharing!
Great work! Nice use of anamorphic, you really captured a lot of what we love about theses lenses.

Now relisted. I would personally give this a big swerve!
Why are the photos so bad? Does he live on a merry-go-round?
With eBay being hacked, this seems like a scam to me.

Sorry Singer, same thing I think :)