AndreasK

Didn't see this topic before. Beautiful images as always and I love you chat with Mr Dan Sasaki!!

Hi, I would be interested in the Dyaliscope and to remove the fungus.

Maybe you could give me the contacts of the seller?

Thanks, I only bought it recently from ebay seller Mario Gorlas (die_bitsbox  http://www.ebay.de/usr/die_bitsbox?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754). He had it serviced by a former film technician. They met each other at WDR station, where he also used to service analog film cutting tables. He's also familiar with anamorphics and now services all of Marios lenses.

I would not know how to open the Bolex but I can tell from my recent experiences with the Rectimascop that front and rear elements are correctly aligned (...that's the case if the horizontal flares of front and back lens are parallel and the image is perfectly sharp also if you look directly through the lens). The Rectimascop is a great lens to learn such things as it's very simple to disassemble. Also the focus marks of the Bolex hit precisely.

I have a Bolex Moller 16/32/1.5x for sale together with a special clamp from rapidotechnology. It's performs great with edge to edge sharpness and I bought it only recently but surprisingly my new 1.5x lens which I made from a Rectimascop 48/2x front part and the rear element of a Schneider Cinelux 2x delivers very similar results (except the very far edges). Anyway, here is the link to the ebay auction: http://www.ebay.de/itm/RARE-Moeller-Moller-16-32-1-5x-Anamorphot-Anamorphic-Cinemascope-/272477606381   I can also add a 72mm filter adapter in order to mount a Rectilux CoreDNA to the front

Another thing is that I plan to offer my anamorphic attachments and taking lenses as rental items but now I'm a little afraid to rent such an expensive lens out. The Bolex also doesn't work well with my longer Lomo OKC 75mm taking lens, while it works nicely with the shorter lomos. The lomo lenses compose a small set (35mm, 40mm, 50mm and 75mm for the moment), are converted to Arri PL and are intended to be my main rental taking lenses as they could be used with an Arri Alexa in LCS mount. The Bolex seems to work really well with the Nikon 85mm f1.8 as longer lens, though: https://www.flickr.com/search/?text=16%2F32%2F1.5x%20Bolex

A good solution for camera heights at eye level is to mount the gimbal overslung on a steadicam sled. Then both, the steadicam arm and the inertia of sled and gimbal eliminate the foodsteps completely. I already did some tests in that direction but have yet to record more cinematic scenes to show the advantages. I made a bracket which can be mounted to the pan motor instead of the handles.

You loose some of the flexibility but the change between handle mode and the steadicam mount takes only about 5 minutes. That should be ok on a feature set. You can manage to be up and running again after a lightning change. Didn't make photos yet but you can see the bracket here. I used it to mount the gimbal to the cablecam last week.

We also had good results by mounting an extension tube to an easy rig to put the attachment point more in front of the body. Then we used a bungee cord instead of the original easyrig cord which did a better job in damping the foodsteps. The original easyrig cord transfered the foodsteps actually too much into the gimbal (I think it was either the 5-8 or the 10-12 kg version. Not sure, though).

If I should rate the different mounting possibilities in regards to elimination of foodsteps I'd give them this order:

1) mounted to a full steadicam system  (the suspension arm and also the big inertia of steadicam sled and gimbal can remove all foodsteps, also with objects in the forground)

2) handheld gimbal (no vibrations in the image itself if the gimbal is well tuned but objects in the foreground might show foodsteps, depending on the pace of the operator)

3) easy rig with bungee cord (no real vibrations in the image but heavier steps might get through)

4) easy rig with original cord (ok if you walk very carefull but not usefull for heavier steps or running)

I can't really say where a shoulder mounted gimbal with a short suspension arm like the upcoming shadowcam will enter. I don't think it will match number one, though, as it won't have the same inertia as the steadicam sled and gimbal combo. The gimbal alone is to light to accomplish the same inertia and therefore I think it can only be as good as handheld.

www.portahead.de

Last week we used our new Porta Head 5 system for the first time with the cablecam and the brushless gimbal brought another improvement into the stabilization together with the kenyon gyro we used before. I edited some footage and making-of-material from the shooting with the cablecam. The camera used was a Canon 5D Mark 3 in RAW modus. Focal length mainly used was 50 mm, some shots used 35 mm and up to 85 mm.

I made a short video with footage from recent tests and projects with the Porta Head 2 and 5 prototypes. The footage is not stabilized in post to show the actual results of the gimbal. More footage will follow soon and also a test with the gimbal combined with the steadicam.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tqoqf3Y-uwg

We plan to offer the Porta Head 2 for cameras up to 2 kg at about 3.000 Euro and the bigger version shown in the video for 6.000 Euro. This one is called the Porta Head 5 as it carries around 5 kg, like a Red Epic with a lightweight Remote Focus. We'll keep you updated here or on http://www.portahead.de

Hello again,

we plan to offer our handheld brushless stabilizers soon. There will be a version for cameras around 2 kg, one for cameras up to 5 kg, like the Red Epic and we also build a stabilized head for cameras up to 10 kg, to be used on a steadicam arm or easyrig. The mid sized version is the most advanced in the moment. This is a test with 5 kg weight including camera and brass weights:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Te2O2bEkgTw

We have first prototypes to test and improve step by step and plan to add small joysticks to the handles for better control of pan and tilt in single operator mode. For more information, updates and new videos you might visit our website http://www.portahead.de from time to time.

Andreas Kielb

In the meantime I almost finished my stabilized remote head and made first tests. Now I need to add the third axis and a second bearing support and do some work on the steadicam jib arm. The third axis is going to use a gear motor until the 3 axis open source controller for brushless motors is available. Will post some raw material when I'm ready.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Arjw2_zay_U

Active image stabilization is great in the meantime. But imagine the MöVi or a similar device on a shot of this kind (starting 1:45 min): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYFXv6bDIY8#t=1m45s

Soy Cuba is from 1964 but still a classic with extraordinary shots.The camera was handheld and passed from one operator to another or connected to cablecam trollies ascending from street level, through the building and at the other side again on a cablecam and above the street. Thogether there were two flights with cablecam systems and the rig was connected with a magnet to the trollies for fast coupling. I would use carabiners for higher safety and together with my cablecam I can imagine to get something like this done. The stabilized third axis would also help on the cablecam to point the camera correctly and being stabilized like in the MöVi video.

Here is some additional information about the movie: http://www.rogerdeakins.com/forum2/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=850

Well - my thinking is... They're a small company, small team of 5 people. To do the kind of quantities a low price point would have necessitated wouldn't be possible. Sorry but that is the way it is. Better to provide it first of all in small quantities to pros - and they are certainly willing to pay for such a thing.

 

I hope - really hope - they will grow significantly and in a year to 2 years be offering price competitive devices, as the market is sure to flood with similar things for cheaper very soon.

 

In a related note - How did the steadicam builders miss this? Have they been ignoring the quadrocopter scene altogether? Strange.

Not all steadicam builders and operators missed brushless technology. I'm part of a german open source community, testing and building brushless systems since a few months. Somebody there showcased a DIY gimbal that looks exactly like the handheld MöVI:

http://www.imagebam.com/image/e4b9a5247306171

http://fpv-community.de/showthread.php?24682-MoVi-Freefly-Brushless-Gimbal-goes-Hollywood/page2

I did also notice how good this system is for handheld usage, though it is only 2 axis at the moment. But the third axis is on it's way:

http://fpv-community.de/showthread.php?24620-Offizieller-Thread-Brushless-Gimbal-Controller-f%FCr-3-Achsen  (...sorry, everything in German).

I'm building a 2 meter crane version for my steadicam very similar to the Portocam or Steadicam Tango. Should be ready to show first results soon :). Once the 3 axis controller is available I'll add handles for handheld as well. Brushless systems are also great for shotmakers and car mounts like this guy shows: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWRKXHPSCls.

Thanks @andy, could you tell me with witch cameras you tried it?

@John, do you need to press half shutter with your NEX 5N for AF during video recording or does it do the autofocus anyway? I read a few tests that it's got one of the the fastest autofocus systems. A NEX might be even nicer than a Lumix because of the larger sensor...

Thanks a lot! Nice to hear it works at all :). At the moment I'm quite interested in a used GH1 or GH2, also to test that hack stuff. Eventually I can borrow a GH3 from a friend next week to try the autofocus thing.

Thanks, but do you think it will be smooth enough during a shot? In my 60D manual it seems that the autofocus would "search" too much and that it's necessary to press the shutter half way... what I read in the GH1 manual sounds much better. I'm hoping for an continous adjustment not even noticeable.

I'm planning to glue a standard filter size step ring to the front for diopters like Edwin Lee did:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/edwinylee/5392635963/in/set-72157625790618742

With a dual focus setup you can't use continuous autofocus. The autofocus lens will adjust the focus, but you'll have to adjust the anamorphic as well if the distance to the subject changes.

Thanks, that's exactly what I mean... it would be alright if I only need to adjust the anamorphic lens for distance changes. I can do that either myself in ENG style or a assistant can adjust focus with a FF according to marks. That would allow for a normal feature shooting style.

So you think the autofocus lens will adjust correctly? Would be great if somebody with a GH series camera could give it a try :).

Hello,

I'm new to this forum and also to anamorphic shooting, though I worked as steadicam operator on projects with rented hawk lenses before. I downloaded the anamorphic shooters guide, read the forum and watched videos so far.

Recently I purchased my first anamophic lenses on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/290889768316 a set of Rathenower Rectimascopes 48/2x which I might get soon. Videos on youtube confinced me about how sharp they are. One mount option is exactly like Edwin Lee and tferradans did with their Hypergonars:

http://www.eoshd.com/comments/gallery/album/29-hypergonar-hi-fi-2/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/edwinylee/sets/72157625790618742/

However, the Rectimascopes are dual focus and I'll soon have the ability to test how this handles in real shooting. But after reading what JohnBarlow did with his Moeller rig and the option to use autofocus lenses with single AF by half pressing the camera shutter http://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/2398-my-compact-moeller-322x-rig-scope-on-a-rope  I wonder if it is not possible to use a camera with continous autofocus for the rear lens at all. This way one would only have to focus the anamorphic lens and the rear is adjusted by the camera with contrast autofocus. No reason to fear the autofocus might adjust to the backround in this setup, though.

I have a Canon 60D and no autofocus lens at the moment since I use my old Contax/Yashica lenses for video and also photos but what I've read in the manual their autofocus won't allow for continous and fluent focus revision. But a Panasonic GH series camera might do the trick and that would be a good reason to buy one. Eventually there is somebody who already tested this approach with dual focus lenses?

Thanks,

Andreas