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DIGICHombre

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Posts posted by DIGICHombre


  1. I have a voitlander 75mm f/1.8 that works very well with an anamorphic, specifically Kowa C-35. On full frame Sony A7 series there was no vignetting.

    The one big catch is this lens was meant for rangefinder cameras I believe, so slapping it on a foal reducer on a crop sensor effectively turns it into a macro lens, and quite unusable. Haven't yet tried on Canon, or any other body yet. All I know is it needs to get pretty close to the sensor. Great photo lens nonetheless.


  2. Nippon Kogaku Japan Cine-NIKKOR 25mm F/1.8 wide angle lens. Close focus up to 2 feet / .6 meter.
    Nippon Kogaku Japan Cine-NIKKOR 10mm F/1.8 wide angle lens. Close focus up to 1 foot / .3 meter.

    Bought on eBay, used with C-Mount to Micro Four Thirds lens mount on Blackmagic Micro Cinema Camera. 
    Optically in excellent condition. Inside no specks of dust, haze, oil scratches that I can detect. Clicks work as expected. Focus is smooth.
    Cosmetically clean on outside. Very good for its age. 

    Close focus up to 2 feet / .6 meter. Very light weight, and tiny size. Smallest lens I've ever owned. Paired with BMMCC or BMPCC this makes a fantastic combination. BMMCC / BMPCC is super 16 sensor so I didn't need a speedbooster, and no vignette. I would expect to see vignetting on any sensor size larger than super 16.

    EXTRA
    Comes with a 40mm Switar C-mount lens, Metabones MFT to C-mount adapter.

    SELLING as a complete set. Asking $570 OBO.

     

    C mount Lenses Group_5.JPG

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    Cine Nikkor 10mm_6.JPG

    Cine Nikkor 25mm_3.JPG

    BMMCC C-Mount Adapter_3.JPG

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  3. Selling my Micro camera, with a few additional goodies:
    SmallRig cage, 128GB Sandisk SD, External Battery solution. Condition of everything is good as new. Equipment has been cared for very well.
    Also selling 3 lenses used specifically with this camera. 
    10mm, 25mm, Cine-Nikkor, 40mm 
    All C-Mount. With a MFT to C-mount adapter.

    Asking $1100 OBO.

    Blackmagic Micro Cinema Camera - Excellent condition. No signs of wear. Records raw / prores flawlessly. Everything in box. Tested couple times. Super 16 sensor quite small, and hell of a crop. After reading all over the internet I purchased a few C mount lenses (Nikkor 10mm, Nikkor 25mm, Switar 40mm) instead of a speedbooster that would only slightly reduce the crop. C mount lenses worked amazingly well. They also benefit from ridiculously small size and decent fast optics. I am selling these as well on eBay.

    Smallrig Cage - Needed a cage to mount my monitor. This one is rock solid. Machined to fit the BMMCC like a glove. No signs of wear.

    Sandisk 128GB SDXC - This is the recommended card to get with this particular camera. Recorded everything from proress 422 to Raw 1:1, 3:1 without a dropped frame. Powerful card.

    NP-F Bridge - This is made by a third party but its construction seems of trusted quality. Allows mounting of higher capacity NP-F batteries to the back of camera in the native Canon battery slot. Does not obstruct the cage and there is zero play. Battery level is displayed in camera.

    Multifunctional NP-F style battery - Versatile battery features USB and 9v or 12v power. Fits the NP-F bridge perfectly and can power the camera all day if necessary. I was able to power BMMCC and my monitor at the same time with this. I used it maybe less than 10 times total. 

    BMMCC Box.JPG

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    BMMCC Cage_5.JPG

    BMMCC C-Mount Adapter_4.JPG

    BMMCC Rig_9.JPG


  4. Takumar, Helios, vintage Nikon, Voigtlander owner here at one time. I would say that voigtlander and takumar give the cleanest look if you can call it that. Takumar you can generally find for cheap. Voigtlander is expensive but sells expensive so it's a wise investment. Helios you can find for dirt cheap, but the look is definitely subjective. The low contrast look combined with odd bokeh can be irritating, however the investment is usually low thanks to so many versions of this mass produced lens out there.

    Having owned a few of vintage lenses and anamorphics myself you really are going to sacrifice some sharpness, and chromatic aberration, for anamorphic widescreen, and stopping down is almost always necessary for a "cleaner" image. But thats why we crave these lenses.


  5. I have this camera, and am wondering the dummy external battery - what have you power this with? 

    I bought the Juicebox battery sold on Amazon, advertised for the BMCC, BMPCC, and BMMCC. They told me it needs to be powered through the side expansion port with all the loose cables. BUT I was wondering if I could just plug it into and power through the dummy battery. Would certainly look less messy. Your thoughts would be appreciated.


  6. Thanks Mercer, this is all very helpful. It's good you know all of this, because it has been hell trying to find any information on it myself. 

    I'm basically attempting to track down compatible [and decently regarded] lenses on eBay using this list as a reference: 

    I started my research for lenses on Alan's site. The Kiev or Krasnogorsk mount lenses seem the most economical (aside from the fact that according to his articles mounts can be tricky and/or expensive in addition) as a kit. The widest lens of the kit the Mir-11mm some say vignettes too much, or is too soft/blurry/etc. Most likely I would just want the Vega 7 20mm. The long lens doesn't make sense because I have quite a collection of full frame lenses I could easily modify if I wanted the super tele focal length. But I've read mixed reviews of the Vega 7 so don't really know what to trust. I like lenses with some 'character' and won't mind a little imperfections here or there (as an owner of Helios, Super Tak, mamiya, kowa, voigtlander lenses I understand vintage) but can't tell if the Kievs are just junk or pleasing/forgiving junk. 

    I've seen a fair amount of decent examples of Schneider Kreuznach Cinegons but there seems to be a whole lot of different types, either old or new in C mount or Arriflex. 

    Then there's a really sweet couple of Cooke Kinetal's a (17.5mm and 25mm) which look drop dead gorgeous, but the price of the lens, and the arriflex std mount is painful.

    I also looked at a Cosmicar/Taylor Hobson 25mm C mount, which looks (from the outside) almost exactly like a more expensive Angenieux. And most recently found these purportedly "very rare" cine nikkors which sound too good to almost be true and get mostly positive reviews of the few I've found.

    My main problem is I want to experiment with this BMMCC without having to re-stock a full set of lenses. Ideally a semi-wide and a normal 50ish equivalent. 

    I toyed with speedboosters but, again, $$$ for the legit .58x version and even then, a significant crop. Cheaper chinese .71x versions just don't seem worth it. Vintage & inexpensive super wide angle s35/FF lenses are few and far between. 

    I ALSO have a Kowa 1.5x anamorphic I want to use on this camera, which is another consideration when purchasing focal lengths for this camera. The widest taking lens I can go on a FF is 58mm + vignette, ideally 75mm + no vignette. So if my math is correct I'd need a 25mm super 16 lens at the minimum to pair with the anamorphic (due to the 2.88x crop factor). I'm hypothesizing here because, as far as I can tell, no public examples exist, and I don't yet have the camera to play around.

    Out of curiosity 2 questions: How did you like the BMMCC? I know it's a pain in the ass from the get go, ie the buttons, menu, iso, etc. etc. But worth the 13 stops dynamic range, 4:2:2 color space, Raw DNG? 

    Got links to those Angenieux lenses you're selling? 


  7. eBay Listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/112426545385?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

    Selling my universal DSLR half cage. Height adjusts to fit many styles of DSLR, or Mirrorless camera. Any camera with a 1/4" female screw thread in the bottom and a hot shoe mount on top. Sturdy metal German construction, never felt loose or flimsy. Very happy with compatibility to multiple cameras. Used on my a7 series cameras. Included sliding plate is sized to standard Manfrotto 501 series. 

     

    The cage offsets the center of the lens from the center of the Manfrotto plate. If you plan to use this cage with a rail kit, the lens will be positioned off center. (Annoying for matte box, follow focus, etc.) For this reason I'm also including the Tripod Adapter which re-aligns the camera with rails. This was purchased separately.

     

    Will send all original parts and box.

     

    The Aptaris Universal XL Adjustable DSLR Cage from walimex is a height-adjustable camera cage for DSLR cameras. It protects the camera while providing multiple attachment points for included accessories such as a cold shoe and a handle, as well as available accessories. The cage is made from anodized aluminum for a smooth, corrosion resistant finish.

    The cage features over two inches of height adjustment allowing you to use it with a variety of available DSLR cameras. Your camera mounts to the cage via a 1/4"-20 captive mounting screw, and two included stoppers can be mounted to the base to prevent your camera from twisting on the base. If your cameras hot shoe is vertically aligned with its mounting screw you can use the included hot shoe stabilizer to lock your camera to the cage using your cameras hot shoe, providing a second attachment point. The cage protects the camera body from the stress of attaching accessories directly to the camera. The included two-part handle attaches to the cage via rails, which can be positioned in many different configurations on the cage. The included cold-shoe adapter is likewise positionable in many different positions on the cage, providing you a wide range of flexibility in attaching accessories.

    The cage attaches securely to your camera with a 1/4"-20 threaded screw to the base of the unit, which features a rubberized mounting surface.

    The mounting screw rides in a channel, which provides you forward and back adjustment on the base. This allows you to adjust camera so that it presses against the removable stoppers and prevent the camera twisting on the base.

    The included hot shoe stabilizer allows you to attach the cage to your camera, using your cameras hot shoe for additional stability. Your camera must have a hot shoe that vertically lines up with the threaded mounting screw on your camera's base.

    The cage features multiple 1/4"-20 threaded mounting holes for attaching available accessories. Attaching accessories to the cage instead of the camera body itself protects your camera body from stress caused by the weight of the accessories.

    A 3/8"-16 threaded mounting hole is included on the base of the cage, so you can attach it to a camera plate, tripod head, or the included rod module plate.

    The rod module plate allows the Universal XL to interface with available Aptaris accessories that allow you to mount 15mm LWS rods, follow focus units, shoulder support rigs, and matte boxes.

    Inside

    Height

    Min: 3.19" (81 mm)

    Max: 5.27" (133 mm)

     

    Width

    4.1" (104 mm)

     

    Depth

    2.8" (72 mm)

     

    Outside

    Height

    Min: 3.98" (101 mm)

    Max: 6.10" (155 mm)

     

     

     

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  8. eBay Listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/112426475899?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

    Superb close focus lens filter / diopter. Size 72mm filter thread. Increases minimum focus distance in front of lens. Same result as a macro lens or macro extension tube. Purchased 2, selling 2. Both in excellent condition. No scratches or dings. Threads perfectly in tact.

    These are the non-bayonet A9FB version, that come in 72mm filter size. 

    I sought this filter out specifically for shooting video on modified anamorphic lens adapters. Vintage anamorphic lenses typically are handicapped by close focus distances of over 1 meter or more. Stacking 1 or more close-up diopters on the end of your anamorphic can decrease this minimum focus distance. Stacking multiple diopters on top of one another will minimize this close-up focus distance even further, without noticeable distortion.

    +1 lens filter equals roughly .8 meter minimum focus distance.

    +2 lens filter equals roughly .5 meter minimum focus distance.

    These are also wide & slim enough o they don't produce a dark vignette in the edge of the frame. I used step-up/step-down rings to mount to my lens.

    *Be aware you won't be able to rack focus very far, or focus to infinity with this on. It is not a one size fits all solution.

    I'm told these adapters replicate what a Tokina +.4 achromat diopter can do at much less the price.

    Payment via PayPal only. Questions welcome.

     

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  9. 2 minutes ago, keessie65 said:

    Thank you! Then I am interested what other lens are you using. I am looking for a high quality 35-40mm lens. 

    Honestly I don't have enough information to make that recommendation. I am unfamiliar with the Bolex 16/32. I'm not sure what sensor size your camera is. If it's an APS-C then you might be able to get away with 40mm.


  10. Hello,

    I have this exact Voigtlander 40mm Ultron, and have used it with anamorphic adapters. First, the lens is amazing by itself. One of my favorites. 

    With anamorphics, in my experience, I haven't found it vignette free, if you're shooting on a full frame sensor. Anything smaller and you have a bit more flexibility but I've used SLR Magic Anamorphot and Kowa adapters and they both showed obvious corner darkness.


  11. Hi,

    Never owned this, but did own the smaller 8/16/1.5x for a short time and based on that and owning a couple different ones tooI can say with reasonable certainty that:

    Since you're already getting vignetting at 50mm on a full frame sensor, I doubt very highly you can go wider and not see more vignetting. Unless you figure out a way to mash the back of the Bolex to the very front of the taking lens in your clamp configuration, then it's possible, but I seriously doubt it.

    All of these vintage lenses increase the minimum focusing distance. Just the nature of it. Some ways to get around include adding diopters to the front of the anamorphot. They can get you to focus closer, however you won't be able to focus beyond a certain point with it on. Do some research. 


  12. Toss in my .02 if external recording is not a necessity for you iKan makes a 5" model that is just a monitor for $400. It's 1080x1920 and surprisingly sharp, light, and runs on either sony or canon batteries. I also have used the Aputure VS-2 FineHD 7" and like that as well for $279. Personally I would probably get the VS-1 b/c they're both 1080x1920 HD however the included accessories in the VS-2 are really not worth it. The sony battery doesn't last very long, and I have found the screen slightly less sharp than the ikan, or harder to nail focus using the screen itself and Aputure focus assist. The HDMI cable is also a behemoth! Get VS-1 for $200 and buy your own battery/cables. 

    Lastly, 7" and 5" is not really from corner to corner that actual measurement on either of these monitors. There is a little screen edge so viewable screen estate is not as large as advertised. Still these monitors are fantastic for full HD mode and beats the back of the camera LCD.

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