Rcorrell

hey guys, I'm having trouble with the april 4th null pointer bug with the new build. I get the error message every time I install a newer 4k build after the april 4th (which is now known to have these bugs). I need someone to walk me through the process to remove the error. I've dumped my rom, I've formatted cards, I've cleared canon settings, I've done the battery pull... I still get the error message without fail.  If I install the normal nightly build it works fine. I've read through the forum on ML but it is still unclear to me how to resolve it. I've tried contacting them on IRC like it says to do but have not got a response from anyone on the ML side.  I'd love to start testing this new build but my camera won't allow me to do so...  If anyone knows what process I have to go through in order to get it up and running again I would be very grateful.  Thank you in advance.  Running a 5D3 1.2.3.

test test test...  mine came out to be a 1.437x but works great when paired with 1920x1152.  I process my timeline for 2754x1152 and you get  a dead on 2.4.0. when de-squeezed.

Here are a bunch of randoms...  First 2 are Lomo, the rest are all iscorama pre36.

yours focuses to 3ft??  mine only goes to 4ft..   whomp whomp...   :(

here is your chance buddy

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Redstan-ISCO-Iscorama-Variable-Lens-Adapter-Brand-New-/271571274671?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f3ae8cbaf

i saw a couple floating around on ebay a month or so ago.  If anything check redstan's ebay store and see what he has up..  

BTW this might be obvious news to you, but hey...

Lucian a few months ago PM'ed be about the VD mod and vignetting questions..  I never posted my response publicly, but now I can see that many people are wondering the same questions / solutions, so I thought my 2 cents might be helpful for some readers... So here it is...

Sooo, yes...  VD mod does create more vignetting than the original pre36 isco does on its own.  It does this no question.   However there is a way to work around it.  

At first i was surprised to see the difference in many of my taking lenses i had used before i got the mod done, however it was only effecting picture on a 50mm-60mm scale on full frame sensor.  Now a few elements are what makes this problem occur...  

VD does build the mod with the screw-on portion of the rear element flush to the actual lens rear element.

Pro : protects the rear lens element more so from scratches dings dents etc, also no use now for multiple stepup rings, filter rings etc.

Con: As everyone has been talking about lately, it does create a vignette on the widest taking lenses because of extended rear thread. also the bigger and deeper your wide angle taking lenses are, the more vignette you will get.  Diopters will also add to this problem, just making the lens longer in front.

FIX: pancake lenses!!.  the smaller the better.  I use a 50mm nikkor f1.8 pancake at my widest on full frame 5Dmkiii, and its fine.  no more vignette.  it's something thats a pain at first but once you get setup, no going back from VD version, its a real lens now.  Invest in some pancake lenses, they solve this problem and are very cheap usually.  

I've also done some experimenting with it using my mamiya 645 medium format camera lenses.  Because they are made for a 6x4.5 coverage, they are rated at 35mm full frame sizes but are actually "wider" on medium format then full frame.  The glass elements in the lenses tend to be bigger than 35mm lenses and they made really nice longer pairing lenses for my Isco.  my favorite being the 210mm f4 mamiya seckor C that becomes a really nice 140mm when in anamorphic, and is tack sharp.

Now in the APS-C size world, i think it's great.  I've played with it a lot on that size and haven't ran into a problem yet.  So depending on what lens and camera combination you are using with VD Isco, you might not have problems at all, or if it's full frame, you have to rethink your taking lens collection  ;)

My new workflow for proper aspect ratio:

shoot at 1920x1152 desqueeze to 2754x1152  @ 1.435x for actual 2.39.1 (for Iscorama)

I have tested mine at 58mm and 85mm and the results were pretty much the same at 1.41 stretch factor - at least with my lenses and setup - that would be a 70.9% squeeze. I have found several other reports online that confirm this as well. Unfortunately that gives you an akward 2.5 aspect ratio that I have been cropping down to 2.4 or 2.35, taking advantage of the extra resolution for slight reframing. Sometimes you can get away with using 1.5 but I noticed that 1.5 didn't look right when shooting people which is why I tested to begin with. I find that 1.41 looks way better in those situations and I can't bring my self to use 1.5 anymore since I know it is wrong. 

I have to chime in here after reading a couple of these posts, especially this one quoted above...  I've recently been shooting with my Isco pre 36 a lot lately, and I too started noticing that 1.5x made people look weird as well, it's just NOT right.  To the point where I spent several hours one day and specifically shot stuff to test this theory.  I came to a conclusion of 1.43x after many painstaking hours in photoshop doing photo comparisons of anamorphic vs non.  And yes, the next question comes down to what aspect ratio to shoot at with such a strange aspect ratio as 1.43x, and get it as close to 2.4.0 as you can out of the bucket...  my next experiment...

Isco's seem to be a 1.4Xx stretch NOT 1.5x

I've worked with a lot of people who use this as well..  It's called a blue streak filter.

http://www.filtergallery.com

Nice Ryan, looks beautiful!  How much did the mod end up costing?

About $1400.

I'd say it's about 2.5 times heavier, which personally I love cause the damn thing feels like a plastic toy in the original casing. 

Just under 90 days.

So updating everyone here as I said I would.  Got my lens back from vandiemen, and she's a beauty!!  And I have to say, as much criticism as VD has got on their turn-around time, they not only did a great job on the build but also did exactly in the time frame they promised me.  Couldn't recommend this upgrade enough for any Isco 36 or pre 36 owners.  Takes a great lens and makes it the BEST!

This is interesting and very true about lots of the equipment we "professionals" use.  Want to see something really scary?? (my best Dan Akroid voice from the twilight zone) No, but seriously??  Take that geiger reader and put next to / up to a wireless follow focus system such as the Bartech....   Get ready to run away very fast in the other direction. It's seriously scary how much unhealthy radiation that thing puts out, and any of the microwave based wireless devices.  You can go through "your healthy amount of radiation in a year"  in a matter of hours using a Bartech..  But seriously, all you AC's out there, at least know what you're willingly putting your brain next to for days/ weeks at a time.  

And thats my PSA for the day.

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Yours is not coated.

Taking lens.  or at least sounds like it.  The taking lens needs to be set to infinity (or near it depending on on lens ) and remain there, and focus only with the Isco.  If you do have the original nikkor lens that came paired with the pre 36, it is a good way to test if in fact your problem is with the Isco attachment or not.  The original taking lens, is premaritally fixed to infinity in order to work with the Isco lens attachment, in other words, it does not have the ability to focus.  So a good way to check is get a nikon adaptor for, canon EOS it seems like, and try that..  that should be tack sharp at f2.8 throughout the focus throw.. if that doesn't work then it is your attachment lens that is the problem.

Use the Helios 58mm and most of the older nikkor AiS primes with a 52mm front thread. they only telescope ever so slightly back and forth throughout the focus throw, but you wont be using that part to focus anyways.  Pancakes also work really well, and small size ;)

Don't be stupid, do your homework...  That's what we, and this forum are here for.

I have the full badass glidecam package.  monitors, dual arms, vest, car mounts, etc...   Everything depends on what shot / aesthetic your trying to achieve.  For  5d3 I would use a 2x anamorphic with a 50mm, which = basically a 25mm.  unless your shooting a skate video or going for a fisheye look, which doesn't even quite make sense with anamorphic, that should cover you.  With an iscorama the 50mm will end up being close to a 33mm lens.

That video you posted is another perfect example of someone that has no idea how to balance their glidecam correctly, and it is the biggest contributing factor to getting good results with these systems..

PM me dude, be glad to let you test out the rig, and show you how to properly balance these things.  The pelican is currently sitting in my closet, I rather see someone get some use out of it.  

I'll try and post a video later if i have some time today..

Correct. That's the stopper that prevents when alinned with that little triangle from going past six feet.

Thanks for the input thus far guys..

I'm trying to go as wide as possible with some kind of c-mount anamorphic setup, wether it be an anamorphic prime on its own or attachment.  I guess i'm trying avoid the attachment route mostly for weight, but also I want to basically "set-and-forget" the focus too.  Nothing too heavy, hairy, or hands on for this setup. Simple is what i'm trying to achieve. wide helicopter shots, just anamorphic without faking it.

Is there not a stand-alone anamorphic native c-mount prime, thats compact and wide??  Thats essentially what i'm looking for.

God, i finally got mine to unscrew, i was pushing for about 5 minutes in rubber dipped gloves and it wouldn't budge and then finally it gave. Didn't have the right size screw driver to finish the job.

 

How did you guys work out which stopper to grind off? I would have thought grinding off the stopper at the close focus end would be whats needed, not the infinity....

 

I'm also trying to add the stopper as rich did for rob, little afraid of drilling plastic.

Refer to that picture I took in this thread of the original stopper and it's placement on the plastic housing.  That's the one you want to remove, and like many others said, depending on where you have set the focus at before removing the plastic housing, it becomes very easy to see which one needs to get removed..  and it's not the infinity stopper.  Looks like Rich drilled a small hole, and used a alan screw nub to secure the housing.

edit - if you look at the plastic cover after its removed, if you turn it to where it says "6ft" and look on the other side of the ring, facing you, on the internal part of the ring.  once again refer to the picture i took, to be more clear.

Hello Anamorphic Community,

I'm doing a shoot in November where we want to use the view factor NoVo GoPro that takes C-Mount lenses, to shoot some anamorphic aerial footage from an RC muti chopper.  something like this..

I really have no experience with C-Mount lenses, so I was hoping a few of you could chime in on what you think are the best anamorphic options using c-mount are.  Small, and or, light weight is a huge plus.  Trying to get a head start on hunting for some of these lenses, so any input is greatly appreciated, as always.

Below is what I'm trying to avoid  :ph34r:

Thanks!