Julian

The red lenses look like normal spherical lenses to me, you don't need them. You need a way to fix the golden lens to your taking lens on the 5D Mark III (probably you need at least 80mm to avoid black corners).

I have one of those big gold ISCO's, the quality is great, but it's a huge beast...

Here is a topic on those lenses: http://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/972-isco-anamorphic-projection-lenses/

Some still images I shot with it (really sharp!) on a Panasonic GF3 and 45mm Minolta (90mm equivalent)

http://www.eoshd.com/comments/gallery/album/8-isco-ultrastar-gf3-minolta-md-45mm-f2/

You can use the Velbon SPT-1 to make an anamorphic rig. Also you need a tripod collar. You can buy a genuine one for the Canon 100mm 2.8 Macro on eBay from China for like $5, it fits on my Isco and it looks pretty much the same.

With the Velbon and tripod collar you get this:

By photographing a perfect circle and stretching the image till it's perfectly round.

Try a test as close as possible and as far away as possible. There could be differences...

Panasonic GH2 hacked

Moon Trial 5 hack, shot in 1080p HBR mode 25 fps (~ 60Mbps)

Standard profile -2-2-2-2

Panasonic 14-42mm kitlens, OIS on.

Looks like there are some dropped frames in the GH2 footage, did use a Sandisk 95MB/s card though...

Panasonic G6

AVCHD 1080p 25 fps (24Mbps)

Standard profile -5-5-5-5

Panasonic 14-42mm kitlens, OIS on.

Everything shot with the same fixed white balance at 1/50s, various apertures but same on both camera's at all times.

My first impressions:

The G6 looks better to me. Better shadow detail and a bit more detail in the highlights. Probably due to flatter picture.

The G6 shares the picture styles with the GH3, so no smooth like on the GH2.  Kept both camera's on standard to keep it as close as possible. Everything dialed down maximum.

Less noise at high iso's, less banding. Couldn't detect any moire.

Looks a tad less sharp than (hacked) GH2, but that could be up to the sharpening at -5. With some sharpening probably same detail level.

Rolling shutter looks the same to me.

Although the G6 is a bit smaller I actually prefer the grip to the GH2. It holds very nicely. The lcd is much much better. The color cast on the GH2 screen is horrible. The G6 looks pretty natural and true to the output. Funny thing: the viewfinder looks quite smaller to me.

ttp://mikescamera.com/photographic-filters.html

This site lists the Tokina C-up 840 (the 72mm +0.4...) for $39.99.. almost thought I found my luck, emailed them but they don't have 'm anymore.. :(

It could depend on the focus distance. My tiny Petit Cinevision anamorphic seems to be 1.5x far away, but 1,33x close up. Have to do a proper test though, but it might be related.

Way to go! Great work. Post a picture of the lens!

Personally I really don't like the CA and unsharp corners. Never seen that as a plus point for anamorphics. It's about the only thing I dislike about my Petite Cinevision...

Haha exactly, I already started looking for the 100-500mm lens.. found some with the diopter and asked if they would sell it seperately, they wouldn't and the complete package was rather expensive though.

Thanks, hope it's any good, I bought it ;-)

I found a manual for Minolta Super 8 camera's, there it mentions a close up filter that brings the focus range from [1.2 - infinity] down to [40 - 50 cm]. Any idea what the power would be based on that information?

Downgrade should be possible. Read comments here:

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5277.0

You can download the previous firmware here:
http://www.canon-europe.com/Support/Consumer_Products/products/cameras/Digital_SLR/EOS_5D_Mark_III.aspx?type=download&page=1

The c-mount adapters are pretty small. There's not much excess metal you can remove to make a lens with a bigger 'bottom' fit, probably it's not always possible to modify an adapter enough to make it work.

I only have cheap china C-mount adapters. With 25mm lenses it works fine, it doesn't really mater if it is not 100% perfect I suppose. If the coverage of the lens is big enough, it doesn't matter if it is a bit off center. It might be crucial for lenses that almost work.

All my tests have been done with those cheap adapters. I don't think a perfect adapter would make much difference. But it would be good to see some comparisons!

We should all make him an $5 offer... :P

That looks interesting Kenny!

Does anyone know if the front filter thread of a Tevidon 25mm f/1.4 rotates during focus? If not, it might be an interesting lens to use with anamorphic lenses on the BMPCC.

I actually use a Minolta Achromat 72mm +0.4, instead of the regular Tokina. Never found another one. :(

I found one.. 10 months to late.. :(

http://***URL removed***/forums/thread/3237571

Good to know it exists! Haven't heard of it before.

Bigger apertures!

http://vimeo.com/65462089

First two shots with Minolta MD 135mm f/2.8. It doesn't focus to infinity with the 135mm, only near.

The other shots are all taken with the Minolta MD 35mm f/2.8, mostly at 2.8. Focussing gets difficult sometime. Corner quality is pretty poor and it vignettes a bit.

Also brought the Minolta MC 58mm f/1.4 but can't get anything into focus with that lens.

I should have taken my Konica Hexar 40mm f/1.8, just tried that, it's a bit soft at 1.8 (it is anyway, also without anamorphic), from f/2.8 it's very good and it doesn't vignette. I think I'm going to marry the Petit-Cinevision to the Konica :)

Will try some other lenses!

Just bought a super cheap achromat (€30 incl. shipping). Minolta No. 0 (+0.94). It's only 55mm, but it might fit on my Iscomorphot 8/2x.

http://www.ebay.nl/itm/360592511132?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

@Mondo: check this thread, man! It's about the Vistascope. I've seen three or four going by $120 lately.

http://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/2069-meet-the-anamorphic-lens-cap-old-delft-delrama-8-cp-15/

I have a bunch of those, in bad shape, as shown in the topic mentioned. I'm willing to part with the extra ones I have for a lot less than that.

Send me a message if interested.

What kind of photography do you do?

If I were you I'd pick up a nice versatile modern zoom for photography. Could be a Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 VC (image stabilisation) for example. It will also work for video, but changing aperture is cumbersome and manual focus isn't perfect. Image stabilisation is a big plus though for handheld work.

If you do a lot of extreme wide angle photograhy, a Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 is very nice. Also for video. Changing focus and aperture are less of a big deal with extreme wide angle anyway.

You could combine this with some cheap manual focus AI lenses for video. All lenses you mention are available as earlier versions, the non autofocus lenses go much cheaper on eBay.

I wouldn't buy everything at once. Just start with a few lenses, see what you like and dislike, discover what you are missing.. (if you get a 17-50mm zoom you can figure out which focal length you like the most, maybe you love 35mm, so it's worth to invest in a Samyang 35mm 1.4 or a Nikkor AI 35mm 1.4 for example.. etc.

Same for rigs etc. Probably you have a tripod or monopod already... start with those. If you have a stabilized lens try using that for hand held shooting.

Very cool! How many tries did it take?

Enjoy! Good to see it ended up in 'the home of anamorphic shooters' ;)

Nikon D7100 video quality is much better than A77.

Sony Alpha mount is very limited too, almost nothing you can adapt to it and less lenses available.

A thing you should keep in mind for the D7100: it has an annoying 'feature': you cant change the aperture on electronic lenses while in video mode (you have to go out of video mode, change the aperture, go back into video mode). Using manual focus lenses with manual aperture control fix this problem.

The D7100 definitely beats the 7D in image quality. It's 4 year old tech against brand new. Both for photo and video.

The 5D Mark II is interesting if you are looking for that 'full frame' look. Put a 35mm f/1.4 on it and you'll get an image you won't ever get with a aps-c-camera like the D7100. I like the full frame look for photography, not fond of it for video because the extreme shallow dof is hard to manage with moving images and can be distracting.

You could look into the D5200 as well. Image quality on par with the D7100, still very good autofocus, but in a more consumer grade body. It does have a flip screen though and is cheaper.

Made by IBM, with atoms... :blink:

Verified by Guinness World Records as 'World's Smallest Movie'

http://www.research.ibm.com/articles/madewithatoms.shtml

http://vimeo.com/65244953

Making of

http://www.youtube.com/watch?&v=xA4QWwaweWA

For both photography and video? mostly the one or the other or 50/50?

Video quality of the GH3 and D7100 is much better than the NEX-7 so if you are serious about video i'd skip the NEX-7.

Best all-rounder with focus on video: I'd say GH3 (1080p60, swivel screen, EVF, mirrorless so you can adapt almost any (cheap) lens)

Best all-rounder 50/50 or focus on (pro) photography: D7100 (best photo quality, great autofocus for photography, very good video quality - better in low light than GH3. Downsides for video: no swivel screen, less lens choices, no 1080p60)

That second shot is awesome!