Vavid Cincent

You are taking sentence out of the context.
Yes, a drive is not removable easily from the enclosure and, no you may not swap drive on the fly. It's like saying SSD are not removable media. Still, they are used everyday as removable media cause the interface is something else that what is inside the enclosure.

But this system is an enclosure for NVMe drive that will put the heat away from the card reader , allowing cheaper and very large drive capacity.
The heat generated by the card can be way easier dissipated than a CFExpress card. I actually have such enclosure for another project, it's all aluminium with a thermal pad around

And, by the way, you should talk to DJI; this is what they use on their Inspire 2 as drive.... But they change the connector type to be more sturdy.

If you look at ZITAY product, they already successfully implement such solution for black-magic camera, without a need for extra external power. (CFFast to SSD)
The product needs to be tested, but it specifically states R5 and Z6 / Z7 (and other C300 camera)
It have a screw thread to secure it to a cage. This will help dissipate heat.
And if you go for large version, it's a great option to reduce overall cost.

CFExpress card are kinda 512 GB max, with nvme you can go to 4TB for similar price. You unscrew the drive when you have 4TB of data, so, maybe one a day.

This product come with a cover to push the door switch and so let the cable going out. So the door will be open during shooting.

I have 0 test so far, but it's look great to me on the paper. I let you do some research on their website, and not just pick up sentences from a different discussion in a blog.

Btw u can downgrade firmware 
 
 

I'm so sorry you feel offended by my previous post.😘
As you admit yourself not having any geek knowledge to determine the exact usage a NVMe drive; I was just trying to clarify the post you where sharing. It was, in no way, an attack to the filmmakers community that knows shit about technical stuff but still keep re-posting absurdities.

My only goal is to make this great forum a better place with my real life experience (and love.🥰)

I always had a commitment to support the filmmaker community. I can only bow to your message and ask you for ultimate forgiveness.🙏 please, please.

I hope my personal hack last Sunday, on this forum, with an easy way to reset the Canon R5 timer is enough to be absolved.

Please accept my full apologies if you felt I was having condescending tone or look like I was some kind of geek. Even if my degree was related to computer science, believe me; I have tried to stay away from techies and other complicated process my entire life. A quick fact check on my previous post and personal blog should reassure you. 
The truce is far less interesting. It's almost sad, even. 
I'm a very simple camera guy. I have been shooting only few days so far;
 made a count last year and it was just about 1,000 shooting for the past 15 years. I have put this in my humble website if you like to give a look by following my profile name. I know it's a low and this is obliviously due to my lack of skills as a cameraman too. I really sucks at everything I commit.
My client are obscure companies like Disney, IBM, Apple... as you may check. My eyes start to be full of water when writing this down. 

The "Filmmaker" title's is way beyond my reaches as my old age is now a translation of back pain and loss of eyesight.
I might be retiring without even getting the glorious title of "DoP". Ok, you are making me cry now. It was not a good idea to write about this.😢

And you know the worst of all; I don't even own a Canon R5. I had to ask for help here from a fellow member to test and validate my findings. Only this way it have been proven to work.
The saddest thing of all;I have invested on two Sony FS7's few years back and may never be able to shoot with a DSLR. I',m stuck using cine lens and other heavy gear forever.
That mean that I will not use my hack for myself and will donate the entire result to the the community I was hoping to join once. 

Thank you for listening. Here is love again ❤️💖❤️for you and the beautiful movies you have been making all over the world that I can see nowhere.
 

Well, well - actually I did test it with my R5. Firmware 1.1.0 - and guess what: it works like at charm.
Let the camera overheat in the 120fps mode. Camera gets really warm. I guess I had something like 20 minutes in total (had to erase the clips from my card again and again). Anyway, after the camera overheated I opened the battery door, blocked the little latch to make the camera think it was closed. Went into the menue, forwarded the date by one full day. Confirmed. Took the battery out, waited some 15 seconds. Put the battery back in, closed the battery door. And here it was: Camera still warm after a short pause of 2 minutes (the time it took to go through the procedure) and what do I see in the display: Full recording time, no overheating sign. LOL. Canon, You've got a loophole there. Does the camera even bother to measure zhe temperature at all?!
Say thank you to yourboylloyd on Magic Lantern Forum.
Chris

Awesome job! I agree with your follow-up comments on the ML forum - based on your workaround working the camera is storing a future-based RTC timestamp for the available recording/cooldown (current time + interval) rather than a relative time or a simple flag. I'm guessing this wont work in V1.1 firmware since Canon changed the logic to sample the temp more frequently during the active session, which would give preference to the actual temp sampled rather than the previous session's timer setup. However it's still worth a shot because maybe Canon was a bit clumsy with the change.

Well, one tester is not enough, please try to do the experience if you have a R5.
The procedure is explained here.
https://www.visionrouge.net/canon-r5-overheating-hack-solved/

In short:
- Power the camera with a external battery and close the door beside the R5 (you can also do the screw trick if you like)
- Record video until you see the overheating logo, or even until the camera shut down.
- Turn off the camera by using the power button so your recording parameters (ISO and so one) are saved.
- Turn back on the power.
- Go to the menu, Change the time of the day to +3 hours at least (or add a day)
- Drop the power by disconnecting the external battery
- wait 30 seconds
- Put back the external battery. the overheat issue should be gone.
(if not, you may actually be in real overheat situation), try in 10mn...
Please share your findings.

Ok, my trick works apparently. Tested by yourboylloyd on Magic Lantern Forum

Record as you wish.
When overheat occur. stop recording. Change the date.
Drop the power (using the screw story or dumb battery)
Put it back.
Timer is gone!
All camera parameters are saved. No need to open the camera, no need to lose your clip.
BOOOMMMMM
https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=24827.msg230515#msg230515

 

So this is my final result with the R5 running on 1.1.0:
After 1 1/2 hours I gave up. Couldn't make the camera overheat at 19°C room temperature in the 4K HQ mode.
Camera started at 21°C.  After 1 hour 30 minutes EXIF reports 61°C and didn't go above it. While it said in photo mode that I had 0:00 minutes left, it showed 1:00 in video mode but recorded nonstop 7 minutes before I stopped, deleted the clip and started right again with another 1:00 minutes left. Didn't even need to fool the camera. 
But now I was interested in the real recovery time.
After 10 minutes (indicating 3:00 shooting time left) the camera went back to 41°C (all doors open, camera switched off)
After 20 minutes (20:00 shooting time) the camera ist at 33°C
After 30 minutes (20:00 shooting time) the camera is down to 29°C
Weird detail: Toggling between photo and video mode: video mode always shows more recording time than the photo mode. f.e. 10 vs 20 minutes.

Thanks for finally put my words in video.
Do you mind if In put this one into my post?
https://www.visionrouge.net/canon-r5-overheating-hack-solved/
 

Confirmed by dellfonic user on magic lantern.
This is the final refinement on my hack.
You have the right time for your recordings!

No, No need to do anything

It's very simple.
Canon do a very simple calculation.
When camera is running, a counter is setup. When the counter reach a certain level, you have a warning logo.
If you keep recording, the Log will become a shut down. This raise a flag that I will call "Fake Overheating flag"

At each of these step Canon is writing the exact time this occurs. Let's call it the "overheat start time".
This is done in an eeprom that is kept even if you remove the battery. The writing occurs when you shut down with the power button. This is the mistake right there.

There are only one way of getting the camera to work again is to wait extra time.
Canon do a simple calculation between "actual time" and "overheat start time". This way, even if the camera is off without battery, they can keep the time running with the help of the RTC.
It's a way of doing coding something very fast.

They also put a conditional test on "Fake Overheating flag" to make sure changing the time during the overheat mode will not change this calculation. My best guess is that they modify the "overheat start time" with the same value the camera time is shifted in this condition only. So each tentative to play this way is not working.

But I have the impression that the new "overheat start time" is written ONLY when the camera is power down. The new real time is written immediately.
So by dropping the battery, you are avoiding the "overheat start time" to be written and only the last one is in the memory.

When the power is restored, there is the calculation to see if you have been waiting enough. But based on the old "overheat start time", not the one shifted by the time modification. BOOOOM.

So the flag is now remove and the camera can start.
Even better, The camera is writing this new "Fake Overheating flag" value into the EEprom. So you can turn off the right way and it will restart without any problem.

You can now shift the time back, there is no check for a possible "overheat start time" cause we are not supposed to be in overheating mode.

So whatever card you are using, whatever R5 or R6, whatever firmware... it's working.
That was my idea at first when I noticed that the battery drop do not save all parameters. An yes, it works so beautifully.