BLACKOUT

Exposure bug?

Yes I have seen of that report, also Nikon Z6 with the thin filter stack has some VM lens users quite happy.

A7R 2

Just wondering if anyone out there come across the magic silver bullet in relation to corner smear with non M digital bodies.

Have a Sony E mount with a close up adapter and exactly at that - close up not to bad ,but pushed to infinity gets pretty bad .

Lets keep the Leica SL bodies out for the moment and of course any Leica M body.

Your best alternates - SIGMA FP  -  KOLARI VISION SONY ?????

1 hour ago, Skip77 said:

Did you try the Z6 yet?  I posted footage and so have others and the Z6 produces what the S1 does in quality from what I've produced for clients.  The S1 might blow away the Z6 in the long run but right now if you compare the image output in 4K they look very close in a lot of ways. 

You wouldn't go wrong with either the Z6 or S1. For price the Z6 is the way to go along with 12 bit RAW Pro Res in the future. (no way Nikon doesn't make that happen). 

Couldn’t get the adapter from M to Nik Z so didn’t get the chance to use it for a demo 

11 minutes ago, BTM_Pix said:

You did see that we were discussing the Leica SL and not the Panasonic S1 here ?

 

Yes got that , and the SL with the OEM mount adapter did work seamlessly- really good 

Just the $7k they wanted!!!!!!

Nice haggling tutorials-should come in handy when I hit Sim City HK......

1 hour ago, Skip77 said:

Did you try the Z6 yet?  I posted footage and so have others and the Z6 produces what the S1 does in quality from what I've produced for clients.  The S1 might blow away the Z6 in the long run but right now if you compare the image output in 4K they look very close in a lot of ways. 

You wouldn't go wrong with either the Z6 or S1. For price the Z6 is the way to go along with 12 bit RAW Pro Res in the future. (no way Nikon doesn't make that happen). 

6 minutes ago, BLACKOUT said:

Couldn’t get the adapter from M to Nik Z so didn’t get the chance to use it for a demo 

Yes got that , and the SL with the OEM mount adapter did work seamlessly- really good 

Just the $7k they wanted!!!!!!

Nice haggling tutorials-should come in handy when I hit Sim City HK......

What’s the latest price drop in$US for the Z6 from a reputable non grey import dealer- no lens kit required????

29 minutes ago, BTM_Pix said:

If TechART get their existing M to E mount AF adapter working with their new E to Z mount (I know @Andrew Reid was badgering them about what does seem to be an inexplicable oversight !) then that would be worth a look but whether the Z6 will give the same optical performance issues as the Sony remains to be seen.

Other than that, the SL will do the job for you in terms of M lenses being better on it than Sony and is falling in price since the S1 launch and with a likely SL2 on the horizon.

It crops in 4K but not in HD so that won't be an issue for you.

Gives you some room to expand as well with the new L mount lenses from Sigma, providing Leica doesn't spit their dummy like they did with the MC21 adapter.

 

Did get the chance to use a SL body with my 50 and it was a very nice result 

The body was new in a showroom and they weren’t too fussed on negotiating the price,so that turned me away 

8 minutes ago, webrunner5 said:

You are hard to please lol.  I mean the Sony A7r MK II was the best thing since sliced bread for a Long time when it came out. I am out of ideas on FF sad to say. Still thinking. ?

The extra cost of an adapter Has to be tons cheaper than buying a Native Leica body lol.

Yes Yes you’re right- but I’ve never had anything to do with any glass focal adapter 

Just now, BLACKOUT said:

Yes Yes you’re right- but I’ve never had anything to do with any glass focal adapter 

14 minutes ago, webrunner5 said:

Well one more question, does it Have to be a FF camera? I am leaning you toward the Blackmagic cameras. None more Filmic then them for the money. Maybe even a Fuji XT-3 might get it done if they have adapters for them. I am sure they do. They are just about giving away the Fuji XT-2, and in 1080p it is no slouch. Nice colors in them.

Yes FF don’t really want to put the extra cost of a lens adapter 

Can I get M lens to Canon DSLR????

8 minutes ago, webrunner5 said:

Are you going for a clean as a babies behind look or more of a Filmic, Cine look? That makes a big difference camera body wise.

6 minutes ago, BLACKOUT said:

Thanks Mattias- exhausted all the You Tube on the Z6 and will have to do the legwork in a dealers showrooms with the adapter and lens by the look of things.

Filmic definitely 

Don’t want to go crop frame either 

Thanks Mattias- exhausted all the You Tube on the Z6 and will have to do the legwork in a dealers showrooms with the adapter and lens by the look of things.

2 minutes ago, webrunner5 said:

Are you going for a clean as a babies behind look or more of a Filmic, Cine look? That makes a big difference camera body wise.

Filmic definitely 

Just going through the mind games of looking for a body to mount some Leica 50 asph & a 21 asph 

I know I should stick with a Leica M body for best results 

But am I better to have a go at the new Nikon Z6??

Does the M240 body have nice 1080p?

Corner smearing has a lot to do with the final decision for the 21mm...

Dont need 4K - and 24 mpx is plenty 

Any suggestions : currently tried a Sony A7r11 and the result was terrible.....

Thanks all 

I've been using a SONY A7R II + 16 - 35 GM + HELIOPAN Pol filter lately around water scenes, removing reflections etc....

I've found the EVF doesn't always provide the best "feedback of image" (so to speak) , its very difficult to notice the exact effect at times, more so in a very sunny environment.

Seeking some options or opinions for either a remote small external EVF via HDMI or a work around with the native on camera SONY EVF...

Thanks......

5D MK II + early 50mm ?

Whats the equivalent f stop in 35mm terms (f2.8?).....

Flea sale find so no real financial damage was incurred.

yep thats it , thanks for the info.....

Hey folks , found a ZEIKA CINE 11/2" F 1.4 LENS ,not sure if it has its mounting flange missing OR this is a type of mount??/

Not sure what it came off, but it has at least 12 blades in iris, all metal construction and is obviously built well..

Any ideas on mounting/format covered/adaptability??

Thanks.........

On 8/12/2018 at 2:01 PM, aldolega said:

Panasonic's peaking never let me down, so long as I fed it a scene with at least decent lighting and contrast. Which it sounds like you will definitely be doing, I imagine surfers against waves will give more than enough contrasty edges for the camera to detect and display peaking on. So maybe look for a G7, G85, or GH4.

Alternatively, I can recommend the Lilliput A5 as a cheap-and-cheerful little 5" monitor with good peaking. It's not the brightest thing out there though, so to use in bright beach sun you would probably need some sort of extended hood.

Upgrading the camera is probably smarter. If you get a 4K model, you'll be able to crop a bit (or use ETC mode), which will give you even more reach. Plop a cheap magnetic loupe on the LCD, switch to monochrome display mode with blue or red peaking, and off you go.

Thanks for the info,I'll have a couple of stops down from max aperture, polariser and lowest ISO available versus shutter speed . I'll look into the Lilliput accessories for an extended hood and get a demo and go rom there.

Thanks.................

18 hours ago, no_connection said:

That would be the problem with it. Enough contrast and it will be "in focus" even tho it's not. Granted I have not used peaking on many cameras but those I have it sounded useful but about 5min later I turned it off cause it gave false indication it was in focus. Maybe peaking is good enough to know the difference nowdays but you really need to test it on the subject you use.

If you use peaking as an aid to see where is goes off and rack focus and get a feel for where the middle and focus really is. That is how I do it without peaking.

Generally speaking as the riders progress into the frame there nearly all tracking faster to left or right out of frame rather than hurting at to speed toward you, so I'm laying it down to the peaking aid and a good depth of field..

I'll be able to place a few marks on the lens as focus reference points - and surf breaks generally all develop over the same reef/break.SO a bit repeatable in the method with wind/tide changes eventually alter the area

Spoke with a couple of pros's some time ago and a general comment was that after you've been with a long lens for long enough you'll get the feel  for focus from how big your subject actually sizes in the frame of your viewfinder.

Summer down here is not far off..Looking forward to what comes of it..........

I'm lucky with being in good light and having a few stops of aperture down the barrel, the monochrome preview sounds visually very workable.

Read/looked at some reviews on different bodies colours and peaking strength's ,but will remain in the M4/3 , 4/3 domain .

6 hours ago, webrunner5 said:

The adapter is even weather proof. Pretty well made. I think the main body is aluminum. Couple of different ones. One is Silver, and two are Black. I had the Black one, the MMF-3. Matches the black color of 4/3 lenses also. They are pretty big lenses though compared to the m4/3 stuff. Eh not so much bigger, they are, but heaver. Built like a tank .

https://www.apotelyt.com/photo-accessory/four-thirds-adapter

Read the reviews. All 5 or 4 stars. Nuff said. 

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/842941-REG/Olympus_V3230500W000_MMF_3_Four_Thirds_Adapter.html

"Ever have ti" not sure what that is??

Sorry my bad spelling, should read "have you ever had to" use focus peaking accurately..

Seen some nice 4/3 lens including the 300 f2.8 on sale at times - was the genuine Olympus 4/3 to M4/3 adapter a dead set  good bit of gear.(Nikon and Canon will probably release something for their legacy mounts when the mirrorless bodies hit as well)!!

Ever have ti use the focus peaking in an accurate situation??

Just put together this in-expensive out fit for some surfing shots on the local surf beach's ,to test the water and see if it worked OK..

A very cheap EPL1 body, Pentax 42mm screw  300mm f4, elcheapo screw to M43 adapter, VF-2 View Module.

Gives me 600mm in equivalent view angle to 35mm.

No shortage of sun and good light  so easy to run low ISO'S with a decent shutter speed.

So the burning question !!!!! I'm happy to manual focus on a hefty tripod locked down,   B U T  -   I  want to change the body to an upgraded model with focus peaking  in a M43  mount for the generous magnification you get with 35mm based full frame  telephoto lens, yes the body will do both stills and capture video.

I've never done any work with the assist of focus peaking.

I'm open to any brand, so looking for recommendations for focus peaking abilities OR would you adapt a 5" monitor with focus peaking abilities.

Using the VF-2 was a challenge not the fastest refresh rate and stuttered a bit, so looking for a really clean view and accurate focus peaking..would be great...

Thanks for your in put....

 I used the "Mag filter stick to the front of the lens in 58mm thread" , no vignette in 24mm equivalent view, got from EBAY NEW. Worked very well with slim ,lightweight filters......

Couple of small things but helpful was to move the screen away from the body, open the flash housing , and opened the covers to the ports from memory - anything to slow down the overheating process.

Just for the heck of it -  I just grabbed a GOPRO 6 with the KNEKT Dome and trigger for a Hardy Reef dive on the Australian Great Barrier Reef and with the Linear in 2.7 K gives you a bit of a zoom. Reasonable battery life, bit of a flat profile for colour grading, ultra small and worked past 5 minutes in 4K ...... Touch screen and RAW for stills if you please..

14 hours ago, noone said:

Clear zoom works great.       It is for both video and Jpeg stills but doesn't work in RAW.      I have it set to turn on (A7s) via the down button and then use the left/right buttons to zoom in and out.

It is virtually lossless variable zoom to 2x (you can also use variable digital zoom which goes to 4x but above 2x, it does start getting lossy and especially as you get to 4x).

If you start with a decent lens you keep a decent lens and (for example) ANY 50mm prime zoomed to 90mm (1.8x clearzoom) is going to be better than 90mm on my worst Canon zoom optically but lenses like the Sony Zeiss 55 1.8 zoomed leave it for dead (an old 28-90 EF kit lens).

It turns a lens like my Canon 17mm f4 L TS-E into a 17-34 tilt shift zoom but also works great with fast longer lenses too.

 

M43 has its ETC which works very well but to date at least none have been variable and they are more like fixed teleconverters (1.4x or 2x I think) than "zooms" like Sony has.

As for lenses, I have used a few across systems and some I liked on both M43 and FF E mount are the old Tamron 300 2.8 adaptall manual focus lens, the Canon EF 135 f2 L, an old EF 100-300 5.6 L (an old lens that focused slowly on my first gen A7 cameras but was still ok and was fast AF on my M43 camera and Kipon adapter- AFS only), and a Sigma 150 2.8 APO macro (plays up on Sony but works ok for MF as well as fast AF on M43) and a EF 100 f2.

FD lenses I liked on both systems include the 80-200 f4 L, FD 50 1.2 L,  and FD 85 1.2 L.  

I have cut right back lately though so only have the 300 2.8 (followed me across several systems) , Sigma 150 2.8, and FD 85 1.2 L (though is a bit sick and needing a fix but since getting an FE 85 1.8, just isn't needed now).

 

 

Had a run with the 17 & 24 TSE previously and was highly impressed with both on what is achievable, next and currently is some Emount gear then build up on some standard and short tele.

Clear zoom looks like to be the magic bullet for the current term ,great info thanks a lot....