Wit

One thing I don't get really. Why should I unscharp it in camera and rescharp it in post? Or shouldn't I do this with all the footage - just see what needs it and what doesn't ? 

Thanxs for helping me learn it all in a short period  Nahua ;-)

Thanxs!!! Still don't know why you have a A function if it's not helpful and you should shoot in the suggested S or M mode .... I guess I will figure this out later. For now I'll start working on my footage and film ;-) 

 

What do you men with the Gladiator look is this also on 1/50?

Resolved! Thank you all for helping. I got my answer via Vimeo. In a way it's funny silly girl being so ambitious that she thinks she could get away with a new unknown camera she only handled once and two new mice doing a pretty technical shoot and interviewing. What was she thinking! Any way now I learned the hard and fast way about light frequencies and the stroboscopic effects on my footage. Hahaha!

 

Still don't know why you have a A function if it's not helpful and you should shoot in S or M mode .... I guess I will figure this out later. For now I'll start working on my footage and film ;-)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Possibly in FCPX set a few seconds of defective clip in time line. Expand time line to 1 frame increments, nudge play head with RT arrow key 1 frame at a time note when the flicker is apparent. Use the Blade Tool cut, remove that frame and others in that cycle. A time consuming job! The video would have a more staccato (choppy) Keystone Cops look. Perhaps you could cut this footage with good stock as an FX to give an edgy contemporary feel.
Tucked away in FCP is a Frame Blending Feature, I'm fairly sure. You may be able to apply this to smooth out playback. Try a Google search on this problem as there is bound to be others that have a work around for flicker.
When working out doors with manual shutter @ 1/50 you will need a 4x ND filter, (2 F stop reduction) allowing a camera setting of F11/F16 in mid day light @ 100ISO. You may prefer to use a ND Vari Fader to give more flexibility with your F stop settings for creative shots, narrow DOF etc.

 

Thank you all for helping!

 

I guess I start working with the footage which doesn't look that bad and then decide if I will goo to the suggested time consuming method (as if filming overall isn't time consuming ;-) Thanxs also for all the other suggestions I'm not sure yet what it all means but I will get there.

 

Ok now I know what's causing my flickering so I can prevent it next shoot.

 

But for now I have to work with footage which has this failure. 
Not all is so bad as in the example but it's sometimes there. That's what you get if you're a one woman film crew multitasking - interviewing, filming and doing sounds with one new camera you barely know and two new microphones. Haha!  :rolleyes: 

So main question left is - Is there a way I can somehow 'repair' flickering in post (in FCP X)?

Indeed I got my answer in Vimeo. Here it is ; 

 

 

Reply
 

http://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/2260-gh3-stripesband-issue-from-lcd-tv-light/

 

Yup I red that post already. But the strange thing is I took perfectly good other shots under almost the same lightening circumstances with the same lights.... :rolleyes:

Hi Nahua - you're simply brilliant! Thanxs a lot!
Remind that I'm in Europe so electrical lights are 50 Hrz frequency.
In this treath  I also posted the flickering or banding issues I experienced while working with these settings. In this example it was with artificial lightning. But I also took some really good shots under the same circumstances with the same lights. I used the one point (correct name) setting, for measuring the light. 

https://vimeo.com/61454321

Yup - it's uploading right now. I will post it with my question on top as well for clarity.

Thank you so much for the effort!


https://vimeo.com/61454321

Maybe this helps to make a decision? It's from Ric Lanciotti from The Pacific Northwest College of Art. Notice since this video FCP X has made some added improvements. I'm not a prof but do own both. Only experienced Final Cut Pro X by now and for now it works. The only thing I don't like is the limited possibilities for graphics and titling. But maybe I din't find the right spot yet.


http://youtu.be/ArCL_UWfPck

Just back from two days in a row of shooting. Some shots had some really serious banding or flickering. I don't understand it at all. Also because other shots under the same circumstances haven't the same problems. Thank god I have enough shots to create the vid. 

Because I'm still learning how to shoot with all the settings on my GH3 I set everything on automatic except the diaphragm - A modus. Other settings; MOV, 24 p - 50 Mbps (for Europe), Contrast -5, Sharpness -5, Color -3, Noise reduction -4.  I used the one point (correct name) setting, for measuring the light. 

 

Anybody a clue why this occured? So I will be prepared next time. And is there away to fix it in post with FCP X?

 

https://vimeo.com/61454321

-

Hi Jni-something,

I'm getting pretty serious about filming and doing interview style filming etc.
I also chosed the Panasonic GH3 because I have to go lightweight. Recently I invested 500 euro into a micro kit which contains three kind of microphones for different situations. Maybe my choice is also something for you.

- the senheiser MKE 400 because it's so small and has 300 hours of battery life on 1 AAA battery! -with deadcat
- A zoom H1 which doubles as a ambience recorder and a broadcaster together with a lavaliere microphone
- A Rode Lavalier Condenser Lapel Microphone which has a micro plug but also the bigger (forgot the name) stabilised plug for when you invest in a better audio recorder like I will.

And for the tripod - I'm using a manfroto tripod for years now which was about 100 euro's and doesn't weigh more then a kilo and can be fold into 45 cm's.

Another cheap and good way to stabilize is using a viewfinder. I bought the 2/3 LCDVF from Kinotechnic. Philip Bloom is also sweet about it. It's only 80 euro's and watch out for the fake looka likes on the market which sell for half the price. One pint you can't close your screen with the glass side inside anymore. But when you're handy like my husband, you can create a frame which is half the hight of the real one and it closes just fine.

Only thing left to buy for me now is a rig - but I heard my personal handy man about making one himself. So probably another good audio recorder, a follow focus and a nokton voightlander will be next to finish my kit.

Good luck!

I just took some test shots with new settings in Mov following your answers in this threat .
They look ok! So the following two days I will shoot my next video on:

- MOV
- 24 p - 50 Mbps

- Contrast -5
- Sharpness -5
- Color -3
- Noise reduction -4


1. There is one thing which I don't understand completely - the noise reduction in relation to Iso. What kind of figure is a high Iso does it move towards 6400 or the other side? And i f it's high Iso should I move the NR towards 0? Because I'm so new to my camera I have all on automatic and filming in A modus - so the only thing I do manually is altering the depth of field and the sharpness.
In what way should I change the noise reduction when light is changing? Can I come by without altering the noise reduction tomorrow at the shoot?

2. If I use the AVCHD setting which p and Mbps should I use? The 24 p 24 Mbps or ...?

No reply just a hop-on to this topic

OK thanxs I will try both then - see what's working for me.

Yesterday I wanted to stick the frame to my Panasonic GH3 and noticed that my screen doesn't close anymore when I stick the frame to my camera. Not sure yet if I'm going to send the LCDVF viewfinder back or try the option of make the frame 50% thinner.

Thanxs  - before reading your post JG I already decided for the 48 kHz 24-bit based on my readings and talks to others. But nice to hearyou have the same suggestion to ensure i made the right decision  B)

I bought a Zoom H1 and Rode Lavalier for recording interviews.

Next week I will use them at a shoot so I'm bizzy testing and getting the right settings.

 

What are the Optimal settings recording audio and why?

 

The options on the Zoom H1 are Wav or MP3 - I choose WAV. Should I use 48 Khz and 24 bit or ....?

So what Khz and Bit rate should I use? The options are...

 

 

- 48 Khz 16 bit

- 48 khz 24 bit

- 96 Khz 16 bit

- 96 Khz 24 bit

- 44 Khz 16 bit

- 44 Khz 24 bit

 

 

Thanxs for helping!

Got myself the LCDVF viewfinder for Run and Gun style stabilization. Maybe I'll ad a small rig later.
 

http://philipbloom.n...er-for-dslrs/�…

sorry wrong post

Yes but it depends on the lens.  You may get "jumps" or "skipping" in the image when doing pans, usually at the end of movement.  It's like when you stop, the IS is still working and overcompensates resulting in a "jump" in the image.  Turn it off and you will get smooth stops.  Just to remember to turn it back on for handheld.

 

Thanxs! I have the Panasonic 14-35 lens .... on or off with this one? 

Should I put the stabilization on the Panasonic lens off when using a rig or tripod?

Are the magnets in this viewfinder harmful to the camera? 

 

 

https://www.kinotehnik.com/products/lcdvf

Anybody experiences with this the lcdvf from Kinotechnic?

 

 

http://www.kinotehnik.com/products/lcdvf