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Wit

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Posts posted by Wit

  1. Thankx! I was so wrong only have 250,14 GB on SSD  :o - really thought it was more. MMM this asks for another workflow maybe.

    Yes if my macbook got robbed or is broken I have a problem but I can't fix all uncertancies in live.

     

    Thank you so much for your answers - will dig into this tonight!

  2. Thanxs Nahua - I already figured this out (took me a half day I didn't have..) See my quote a few answers above.

    But the strange thing is that my old class 6 Transcend 16GB cards give me the full recording time written on screen. Its over half an hour. But I guess they will stop too after half an hour never tried. So my more espensi e cards left me with a monitoring problem - I have to estimate my left recording time instead of seeing it on screen....Long live progress, more expensive cards, Sandisk, EU tax laws etc.!

     

    Anybody know if the same occurs on the bigger Transcend cards?

  3. Why are the projects no longer on the surface? Did you move them? Moving (='hiding', as FCP X calls it in the manual) is a method to get them out of the way without deleting them. Move them back, restart FCP X, they will appear. Select them, delete files. I suppose you could always use the finder to get to the render files and put the whole folders into the trash. But I never tried this myself.

     

    Because I threw them away. And I didn't make a back up as it where all trials. But I figure the rendering files are still existing?

    Can I remove the all the folders from the map Films/Final Cut Events/Camera render files and

     the  from the Peaks data from the Render Files map with no harm?  Nothing important yet on this machine.

     

     

     

     

    h. But I never tried this myself.

     

    Rather that than reading/writing anything over a USB connection. I suppose you didn't experience big problems with having the OS and program on the same volume as the clips?

     

    Note, that with AVCHD you always work with a copy, even if you checked 'original media'. The copying process is so fast, you don't realize it, but in the 'original media' folder live H.264 copies of your '.mts' - clips (EDIT: In case you chose 'optimized media' - the default for AVCHD -, the files will be big, but edit-friendly ProRes-files, check this).

     

    There are two advantages in that:

     

    1. You can connect your card reader and a LaCie drive to the MacBook, open FCP X, hit 'import' and there 'create archive'. See here for details (This was obviously before the unified import of 10.0.6, the rest stays valid). In the opening dialogue, you choose the LaCie as volume where your SD-card should be archived. Now you wait, until the backup is complete. Then eject the card reader.

     

    2. After that, you create a new event with your SDD as volume, hit import and choose the camera archive on the LaCie.

     

    3. Here comes a very interesting feature only available with original SD-cards or camera archives:

    Archiv.jpg

    (here is your German  ;) )

     

    The blue icon selected here is the 'clip view' of the import window. It allows for you to skim through all your clips at once, qualifying them very quickly (granted, were the archive not connected only via USB, you could skim waay faster!). Moreover, you can select multiple regions of one clip before you hit import.

     

    4. That way, you only copy the portions of the original clips you actually plan to use in your project, saving space on your system volume!

     

     

    MMM it's too late now to dig into this but hey thanks I'll give it a go tomorrow. Actually I didn't do much editing on the macbook pro yet. So I don't know if I will encounter speed problems yet.

  4. Ok I will set up my tests too right now. 

     

     

    Found this on another forum -

     

    On modern SD cards, most SDHC and all SDXC cards are likely to be rated by class, which is expressed as an integer number. This number is the minimum continuous write speed in MB/s without fragmented address space. Thus a class 10 should be able to write 10MB/s, (or 80Mb/s) providing the card has contiguous available space. Some class 10 may well exceed this.
    The 29minute limitation is per continuous video record. If the recording is stopped, it can record for another 29 minutes, (actually 29m 59s). This limitation is designed-in by the manufacturers so that they can sell the GH3 as a stills camera. If it records video for longer than 30 minutes as a camcorder should, it would be subject to a 5.4% EU import tariff. Real camcorders are designed to do the job properly and I'm sure that 5.4% additional cost is probably less of a problem than a crippled record function.

     

     

    If this is true. - If it's this thing to avoid European taxes. This means my ' o come on dig in your wallet and spend some more this time on the really good cards instead off the normal cards' only brought me cards which I can't monitor on recording time  left ;-(

     

    MMMM next time I'll spend less money and go for the lower speed Transcends. What a bloody dumper!

  5. you´re making me nervous... 

     

     

    I used it recently for an image film job and recorded 32.2 gb... so about 60min of film... all on that card. it never said, card full or anything

     

    Sorry about that! - Did you record footage longer then 30 minutes in one go? And in Pal? 

    I will do another trial tonight - to see if it quits again after 30 minutes. And then try another shot to see if I can record after.

     

    I just registered with Sandisk so I will hear pretty soon if it's a fake. Paid a real price though!

  6. guess because the camera cannot record more than 30min... I have a 64gb San Disc Extreme and my GH3 always tells me R 29m 59s... but of course I can shoot aslong as there´s space on the card... so actually, this info tells us nothing :/

     

    My other Transcend cards show the exact recording time left f.i. 2 hours.

    This one says 30 minutes and stops at 30 minutes because the card is full.

     

     

     

     

    I checked some recent posts about fake sandisk cards. My package looks fake acording to this tread but the card itself isn't.

    http://www.digitalphotographer.com.ph/forum/showthread.php?45459-How-to-Spot-FAKE-Sandisk-Extreme-SDHC-cards

  7. I just reset the whole camera to factory defaults - still the same problem.

    I made a recording of 0:30 hour and then checked the memory card on my macbook. 

    It sais I have still 25,4 GB memory left. When I putted my card back into the GH3 it said I have again 30 minutes despite the fact that it told me earlier that it was full. Then I initialized the card again, getting again the 30 minutes. Hope somebody has an answer  as I will have lots of problems returning these cards. Guess the card maker will blame Panasonic and vice versa. 

  8. Thanxs! Deleting rendered files sounds as a wise thing to do.

     

    For other readers I'll include a video how to. But What do I do with the rendered files from projects which aren't anymore on my FCP X page? How do I delete them - which map or sub files should I remove?

     

     

     

     

     

     

    It sounds like you're not advising me to store everything on the SSD of the notebook are you?

    If you want - I can read German too.

  9. I'm not paranoia - it's what other traveling filmers/photographers advised me - 2 back ups. 

    Divided among two travel bags of two separate persons. They also recommend sending material home but I'm not sure about that. I just wanna understand what I'm doing so I don't loose material because of ignorance.

     

    I don't know if I want the rendered files on my back up - do I are they taking up that much space? If not how can I excluded them?

    Yeah for sure I won't update the system while using this method.

     



     


    I make a Timemachine backup at the end of the day. 

    Additionally, I have a freshly installed system-backup on another drive.

    And the camera archives on another (the media are on three drives that way!)

     

    What do you mean with the second phrase? Unplug the first harddrive and plug in the second to make again a Time Machine back up. Wo'nt this mess your back up system?  

  10. I tried some more cards and it's not the camera - it's this card. 

    Have bought another card - the same but not sure if I want to break the seal and try that one too.

     

    Edit - just unpacked the second one - same problem here. Shoot spent 60+ euro's spend on a 32 GB card that's runs so poor  :(

     

    Did you try a factory reset of your camera?

     

    No - not sure how to do that and if it will solve my problem. I guess it is in camera under the same function where I initialize my memory card?

  11. Today I tested my new memory card - a Scandisk Extreme Pro 32 GB class 10 95MB/s card.

    I was very surprised the camera mentioned I only had 0,5 hour of recording time - also when I re formatted the card twice. I was using the AVCHD mode 50 p 28 Mbps. 

     

    Same amount recording time, also when I switched to MP4 and Mov. I double checked the card on my notebook just to be sure they didn't place a wrong sticker - but it actually is 32 GB.

     

    What's wrong?  

  12. I'm testing the most optimum storage handling method for extended shoots. Being on the road with minimum back up means. Here's what I found so far - and what questions are left. Would help if you gave your thoughts on this ...

     

     

    Set Up:

     

    - Macbook pro SSD 1TB

    - 2 x LaCie rugged mini 1 TB

     

    Storage method:

     

    - Edit on Macbook

    - Store project file on Macbook drive under Films - Final Cut Projects 

    - Shoot more compressed AVCHD files

    - Store full copy of SD card in xtra folder in the dedicated Event folder in Final Cut Events

    - Run one Time machine back up copy on LaCie 1 disk

    - Make copies of the Time machine back up on LaCie 2 disk 

     

     

    My idea is to store and edit until my notebook will be full. As soon as my notebook is full, I will empty the Original Media folder to safe space. I will restore the data from the back up disk to the Original Media folder when needed as soon as I'm in the situation to do. Tested this method and it works. Of course an accurate administration system will help. 

     

    The other method will be to import the data again from the copy of the SD card. I didn't test this method yet but I figure it will be time consuming as I somehow think the reconnecting has to be done file by file.

     

     

    My questions are:

     

    1. Can I run an automatic back up via Time Machine on back up disk 2 too or will this confuse the system? 

        Therefore better refrain to making manual copies whenever there has been changes.

    2. I guess the data on the backup disk will be compressed. Won't this harm the quality of my footage? 

    3. What reconnecting methods are best? Via Time machine or reconnecting via SD card?

    4. General thoughts on my storage handling as described above are welcome!

     

     

    Thanxs!

  13. Go with the variable ND versus individual filters. Skip the matte box. Matte box isn't so much fun for run-n-gun. Check Dave Dugdale's site for a great vari-ND review video!

     

    You mean the fader ND this guy is talking about? Is there one of B&W too? Didn't find it yet - as I'm not sure what fader ND translates in my language and it's time to hit the sack now. ;-) Thanks a lot for all the help again guys!

     

    https://vimeo.com/10433983

  14. What a helpful information thanxs all!  

    Hahaha and yet again something added to the technical list (something I didn't hear about before)  - the shutter angle!

     

    Yep I thought so need a ND for my GH3 kit lens. What would be a good and affordable ND filter for my 12-35 Panasonic lens? B&W and how many stops I need? I'm not sure if I ever buy a matte box - it makes the camera a lot bigger. But I probably will add some prime lenses to my camera in the future.

  15. My approach is:

     

    Set my aperture

    Set my shutter (usually to 180deg, eg, if shooting at 24p, use 1/48th... but you can set this to however you think will look best for your shot)

    Adjust my ISO and/or increase/decrease my lighting until i have good exposure

     

    Thanxs!

    What do you mean by 180deg?

    What do you mean by increasing/decreasing light? Your Aperture? 

  16. I learned a lot lately about shooting with a DSLR  but one thing is still confusing me - the frame rate versus the light. Maybe this forum can help me (again) on this one?

     

    A - As a new be on DSLR shooting I was recently thought that when choosing shutter speed I should use twice the frame rate I'm using. Especially when filming indoors with artificial lightning - avoiding the flickering effect. So when shooting at a frame rate of 24 fps I use 1/50 shutter speed and when shooting 50 fps I use 1/100 shutter speed.

     

    B - But on the other hand there are the rules of light. The aperture, the shutter speed and the ISO settings which help you control your light. I red about the stops and how I can compensate them. And I red about the White Balance - all methods to adjust your lightning. 

     

     

    My questions are:

     

    1. - How in earth do these - A rules where I should double my frame rate to set the correct shutter speed work with the light rules - B? I won't have much space to adjust my shutter speed ...

     

    2. - And what is the rule of thumb when setting your lightning - go from adjusting first your aperture, then to shutter speed and then ISO?

     

    3. - And what if you want to freeze (speeding up the shutter speed) or blur your image (lowering shutter speed)? 

     

     

    Or is there no rule of thumb?

     

    It would be awesome if I could finally return to creating visual stories instead of learning all about the technics :P 

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